Crunchy Noodle Kugel à la Great-Aunt Martha

Crunchy Noodle Kugel à la Great-Aunt Martha
Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times
Total Time
About 1 hour
Rating
4(520)
Notes
Read community notes

The genius of this sweet noodle kugel — the rich, custardy casserole that is a staple of Jewish cooking — is that its top is designed to offer maximum crunch while its interior remains creamy and luscious. The secret: use a jellyroll pan, which means that there is a greater amount of kugel surface area to brown in the oven, and bake it at a slightly higher temperature. Soaking the raisins in sherry or orange juice adds flavor, and also keeps them from burning in the extra-hot oven.

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Ingredients

Yield:8 to 12 servings
  • 1cup raisins
  • Sherry or orange juice
  • 1pound egg noodles
  • 6tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces, more for pan
  • 4large eggs
  • 3cups cottage cheese
  • 1cup sour cream
  • cup sugar
  • 1teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • Grated zest of 1 lemon
  • Pinch of salt
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (10 servings)

446 calories; 18 grams fat; 9 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 5 grams monounsaturated fat; 2 grams polyunsaturated fat; 54 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams dietary fiber; 19 grams sugars; 18 grams protein; 312 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Put raisins in a microwave-safe bowl or small saucepan and cover with sherry or orange juice. Heat on stove top or in microwave oven until liquid is steaming hot (about 1½ minutes in microwave or 3 minutes on stove). Let cool while you prepare kugel mixture.

  2. Step 2

    Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Butter an 11-by-17-inch jellyroll pan. Cook noodles according to package directions and drain well. Immediately return noodles to pot and add butter. Toss until butter melts.

  3. Step 3

    In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, cottage cheese, sour cream, sugar, cinnamon, lemon zest and salt. Drain raisins and add to bowl along with buttered noodles. Mix well.

  4. Step 4

    Spread mixture in prepared pan and smooth top. Bake until top is crusty and golden, 25 to 35 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

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4 out of 5
520 user ratings
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Cooking Notes

For a simple old-time savory version, leave out the raisins, sugar, and orange juice. Add chopped scallions, salt and pepper and bake as directed. Variations can include adding mushrooms sautéed with onion, or, some chopped kale.

Yes, that's the way my mother made it - onions, not scallions though - and for me, noodle kugel will always be more savory that sweet. She was born in Riga, Latvia and came here in 1950 via Israel. She was a great cook, but my father claimed when they married, she couldn't boil water. To her dying day though, she couldn't make good coffee; my father called her coffee "beer." But she was a great cook nevertheless.

I used a regular casserole dish, baked it for about 10 more minutes and it turned out fine. Nice lemony flavor.

Would like to try this using ricotta cheese instead of cottage cheese. I never have good results cooking with cottage cheese.

I have a similar recipe and substitute yogurt for sour cream. Also, I peel and slice apples and add them to the mixture and sprinkle with cinnamon sugar - because that's what my mother did.

Decided not to cook this in a jellyroll pan because I needed to cook it the day before and just reheat it. I cooked it in a 13 x 9 x 2 baking dish and top gear with crushed Kashi mini shredded wheat. Sprinkled a little cinnamon sugar on top. It picked up beautifully, crispy and brown on top, and retained the crispness when reheated and serve the next day.

Also added some dried apricots to the raisins, which made it more colorful and flavorful.

I followed directions except for the orange juice, which I didn't have. I used less butter on the noodles and salted them. I, too. used a 13x9-in. dish and baked it for about 45 minutes. I put cinnamon on top. Truly delicious and my mother and grandmother are smiling from the mah jong game in the sky.

Found an old fashioned recipe which used cream cheese and sour cream and I used chopped fresh peaches, but its best idea was crushed cornflake topping sprinkled with brown sugar and cinnamon. Make in the requisite deep square Pyrex dish, it was like the sweet Ashkenazic equivalent of Macaroni N cheese.

I replaced with the sour cream with 0% fat organic Greek yogurt (I really like the Costco Kirkland brand), which I now use for every recipe that calls for sour cream. My cottage cheese was 2% fat. Excellent results. Cooking time was longer, maybe because of the yogurt or maybe my oven is slower.

Tofutti makes a great non-dairy ricotta and sour cream so this dish can be prepared and enjoyed with a meat meal.

There’s a brand of cottage cheese called “Good Culture” that works really well here, presumably because it lacks the gums and stabilizers nearly all big brand cottage cheeses use these days. Another too: chopped dates instead of raisins.

This is always such a big hit. I bake mine in a tube pan for about 45 minutes. It’s very pretty to look at and I use Gran Marnier to soak the raisins.

Very important note for cutting kugel: Cut it when it's cold... right out of the refrigerator; then reheat. Cutting it when it comes out of the oven will result in it falling apart. So definitely yes, make in advance and store in the refrigerator. (From my Lithuanian grandmother!)

Used good ricotta instead of cottage cheese and minced dried apricots instead of raisins — I can’t stand raisins. I microwaved the apricots in sherry and they absorbed all the liquid. The result was superb, as I imagine the unaltered recipe is. Perfect mix of crunchy top and creamy inside.

I added a touch of vanilla and less sugar!

If I make this a day ahead, do i refrigerate?

I followed directions except for the orange juice, which I didn't have. I used less butter on the noodles and salted them. I, too. used a 13x9-in. dish and baked it for about 45 minutes. I put cinnamon on top. Truly delicious and my mother and grandmother are smiling from the mah jong game in the sky.

I use apricot preserves instead of sugar. This takes it to a whole new level.

Tofutti makes a great non-dairy ricotta and sour cream so this dish can be prepared and enjoyed with a meat meal.

A co-worker taught me to make it with the thinnest possible egg noodles. We love it that way -- blends into the custard better.

Found an old fashioned recipe which used cream cheese and sour cream and I used chopped fresh peaches, but its best idea was crushed cornflake topping sprinkled with brown sugar and cinnamon. Make in the requisite deep square Pyrex dish, it was like the sweet Ashkenazic equivalent of Macaroni N cheese.

Thanks for the tips about using ricotta and for making a crunchy cinnamon and sugar topping. I baked mine in a pottery casserole dish so the cooking time was extended a bit. The kugel was great and a BIG hit at a friends and family brunch.

Oh My Melissa this is the best thing I have ever made with such a little bit of nothing. Work, ingredients, in other words no big work or fancy ingredients! Thank you so much to you and your Auntie Martha! p.s. the best recipes I find are the Jewish ones and I am Irish to boot!

I usually like Melissa Clark’s recipes but my kugel turned out to be just “ho hum.” Next year I will modify the recipe by adding 1/2 c of sugar, 3T of butter, and Friendship cottage cheese instead of Breakstone’s. A topping of tart cherry pie filling or another fruit filling is in order. Happy Hanukkah

All our ancestors were from Lithuania but I don't know whether my mother inherited or created her recipe. She would make a similar version, also crunchy on top and sides, but pareve (minus the dairy ingredients) and with vegetable oil subbing in for butter so it could be served with meat and comply with the rules of kashrut. It also included sliced apples and plenty of cinnamon. When I make it I use more eggs to get the custardy quality normally afforded by cheese and sour cream.

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