Sausage Ragù

Sausage Ragù
Rikki Snyder for The New York Times
Total Time
about 2 hours
Rating
5(3,191)
Notes
Read community notes

Meat sauce is one of the recipes many American home cooks start with. It seems so easy; brown some hamburger, pour in a jar of marinara, and presto! Meat sauce. Not so fast, friends. Made that way, your sauce may be thin-tasting, sour, sweet, or — worst of all — dry and chewy. Meat sauce with deep flavor and succulent texture isn’t harder to make; it just needs more time and a low flame. This recipe from the New York chef Sara Jenkins, who grew up in Tuscany and has cooked all over Italy, shows how it’s done. Caramelization is involved; dried pasta and canned tomatoes are best practice; and pork, not beef, is the meat of choice.  If your sausage meat seems timidly flavored, feel free to add chopped garlic, chile flakes, fennel seed and/or dried herbs like oregano and sage to the meat as it browns. —Julia Moskin

Featured in: Ragù, a Meat Sauce Done Right

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Ingredients

Yield:About 3 cups
  • 1pound sweet Italian sausage or bulk sausage
  • Extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1onion, minced
  • 1carrot, minced
  • 1celery stalk, minced
  • ¼cup minced flat-leaf parsley, plus extra for garnish
  • 128-ounce can whole tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, with its juice
  • 1large sprig fresh thyme
  • 1large sprig fresh rosemary
  • 3tablespoons tomato paste
  • Salt
  • Ground black pepper
  • 1pound tubular dried pasta such as mezzi rigatoni, paccheri or penne
  • Freshly grated Parmesan cheese, for garnish, optional
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (12 servings)

270 calories; 12 grams fat; 3 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 5 grams monounsaturated fat; 2 grams polyunsaturated fat; 32 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams dietary fiber; 3 grams sugars; 11 grams protein; 320 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    With the tip of a small, sharp knife, slit open the sausage casings. Crumble the meat into a wide, heavy skillet or Dutch oven and set over medium-low heat. If the meat is not rendering enough fat to coat the bottom of the pan as it begins to cook, add olive oil one tablespoon at a time until the meat is frying gently, not steaming. Sauté, breaking up any large chunks, until all the meat has turned opaque (do not let it brown), about 5 minutes.

  2. Step 2

    Add onion, carrot, celery and parsley and stir. Drizzle in more oil if the pan seems dry. Cook over very low heat, stirring often, until the vegetables have melted in the fat and are beginning to caramelize, and the meat is toasty brown. This may take as long as 40 minutes, but be patient: It is essential to the final flavors.

  3. Step 3

    Add tomatoes and their juice, breaking up the tomatoes with your hands or with the side of a spoon. Bring to a simmer, then add thyme and rosemary and let simmer, uncovered, until thickened and pan is almost dry, 20 to 25 minutes.

  4. Step 4

    Mix tomato paste with 1 cup hot water. Add to pan, reduce heat to very low, and continue cooking until the ragù is velvety and dark red, and the top glistens with oil, about 10 minutes more. Remove herb sprigs. Sprinkle black pepper over, stir and taste.

  5. Step 5

    Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Boil pasta until just tender. Scoop out 2 cups cooking water, drain pasta and return to pot over low heat. Quickly add a ladleful of ragù, a splash of cooking water, stir well and let cook 1 minute. Taste for doneness. Repeat, adding more cooking water or ragù, or both, until pasta is cooked through and seasoned to your liking.

  6. Step 6

    Pour hot pasta water into a large serving bowl to heat it. Pour out the water and pour in the pasta. Top with remaining ragù, sprinkle with parsley and serve immediately. Pass grated cheese at the table, if desired.

Ratings

5 out of 5
3,191 user ratings
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Private Notes

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Cooking Notes

In fairness to Ms. Moskin, this recipe does not purport to be a classic ragu. I am an experienced cook (read: old). I am also an Italian-American and an admitted garlic-aholic and I didn't miss it. The flavor is very rich yet subtle and delicate. But in her intro, Moskin mentions that you may add garlic and other herbs if you so choose. I would encourage cooks to ignore self-fashioned, snarky experts and give this recipe a chance. It is really very good.

You should never buy diced or crushed anything, such as pineapples or tomatoes - always buy cored pineapple slices and whole tomatoes. That way you know exactly what you're getting, which means no diced tomato stems or crushed pineapple cores. Just a tip I received from an exec chef a long time ago.

This is incredible. As other here have noted here in comments, mixing hot and sweet sausage will help the complexity of this sauce. Add garlic to taste when cooking the onions, carrots, and celery, and some hot red pepper flakes if you want a bit of a kick. Lastly, the cooking times noted are way off for a gas range at sea level. The 40 minutes mentioned in step one took 1 hour and 30 minutes for me but it was worth it. The 20-25 minutes step three about an hour. So be patient!

PS:to the alternative recipe I just posted,buy the real San Marzano tomatoes which are sold in cans indicating their provenence from Agro Sarnese Nocerino DOP,grown there and canned there according to strict regulations,only real San Marzano tomatoes have this authenication and all the cans are numbered...don't buy the fake Chinese San Marzano tomatoes the Chinese have indicated as Italian,the buyer must beware(don't believe me?check it out in Internet,even in an article here in the NYTimes)

Trying to caramelize the meat and vegetables at the same time is hard.Do the meat first and then remove it.
Do the vegetables and then add the meat back in.

I cooked this as written (with only garlic as my addition to the recipe) and it was fabulous! Not too heavy on tomato nor watery at all. I made the ragu and made a lasagna out of it and it was a hit with the entire family. Doubling the recipe next time and will probably use red wine instead of water with the tomato paste. Awesome recipe!!

Made this during the week. Cooking time is essential to get the rich taste of ragu. I used Trader Joe's Sweet Italian Chicken Sausage as my sausage. Added some pancetta as it started to cook down to add some fat/pork. YUM! Those were my only changes to the recipe. My husband loved it the first night and said it only got better for leftovers the next night. This is the best ragu/red meat sauce I have ever made. My "go to" from now on. Thanks for the recipe Julia.

My family was waiting all afternoon and evening for this sauce. The longer it cooked on low, the better it smelled, and the hungrier everyone became, until, when it was finished and the dish was served, they fell on it like a pack of hamsters and devoured everything. I ate mine a bit slower and enjoyed it immensely. It was cooking on low for three hours....

Geez, it's the end of Summer, why wouldn't you use the last of the Plum tomatoes out of the Garden...I still have a huge bowlful left, they were just waiting for this recipe!!

And come Winter, to avoid the seeds in the 'whole tomatoes' why wouldn't you use the 'diced' version, that also comes with the juicy tomato like thick juice? You can get them from San Marzano as well, not the Hunts version.

Fantastic recipe! However, I looked at the nutritional info and it is based on this being 18 servings!! I'm not sure that a pound of pasta would feed 5 in our house.

Borrowing from Marcela Hazan's Bolognese Ragu, use very fatty ground beef. Ideally get the butcher to grind a fatty piece of chuck but I have found 80/20 hamburger is basically just that and works very nicely.

You might need to add some fennel seed and red pepper flakes to make it taste like the pork sausage version though.

The main difference between ragù napoletano e ragù bolognese is how the meat is used...in Naples the meats are put in whole and then later taken out and served as a second course...in Bologna the meat is finely ground and never taken out...Up to you the choice!

when meat and vegetables are caramelized, add some wine and let it cook down, then add the tomatoes. Flavor lacks some depth to me -- I added some bay leaves, and probably will add garlic next time too. If using sweet sausage, a dash of pepper flakes would make a difference too. Tinker with it - worth it

I don't think I've ever seen crushed San Marzanos, and trust me, you want those for any sauce recipe. It's worth the expense and the extra step of crushing them yourself to use them.

I used this recipe as a base, taking additional inspiration from several other recipes, all of which indicated slightly different ingredients and order of steps. So I won't be one of those people who don't make the actual recipe and then comment -- except to say that my takeaway from it was that the basic recipe is very forgiving/flexible as long as you use the low & slow cooking method to gradually caramelize the mirepoix, meat (especially) and tomatoes each time something is added. Exellent!

This was so good. I pretty much followed the recipe exactly as written except I did add some fennel seeds and also a Parmesan rind while the tomatoes were cooking. It does take time, but the results are so worth it.

Excellent! Note that steps 2 and 3 take WAY longer !

I used the recipe as a guide but added the below elements. The sauce came out great! 1. Browned sausage and removed it from pot 2. Added pancetta 3.Then the veggies, garlic, and red pepper flakes. 4. Added the tomato paste, after, deglazed with dry red wine 5. Then meat back in pot...followed by tomatoes, rosemary, half cup milk, and a whole star anise 6. Salting along the way..after a 30 min simmer, turned off heat and added: teaspoon fish sauce, dash sugar, squeeze of lemon, and grated parm.

Great recipe that rewards patience. The first step will depend on the width of the pan you use. Tonight, I increased the recipe by half and found that a lot of the meat and veg wasn’t in direct contact with the heat in my medium Dutch oven. It took 90 minutes. I use real San Marzanos and crush them by hand to remove the stem and inner core. Wine, garlic, and red pepper would probably taste good but they would also diminish the sausage flavor; it’s excellent as written.

Brown meat, take out of pan Caramelize vegetables Add tomatoes

This ragu is amazing and worth the effort. As others have stated, take the time to do each step - which for me, was longer than the recipe indicated. As suggested in the recipe notes, I added garlic and hot pepper flakes to bolster the flavor of the mild Italian sausage. I doubled the recipe but I think because of this, the sausage never really browned - It didn’t seem to impact the final result. The flavor of this sauce is exceptional. Do it!

So good! Step 2, caramelizing the vegetables and the meat, is the critical step in developing that deep flavor. Be patient!

I'm 2:15 in and still on step 3. That said, it smells delicious.

Noob question here, but I hope someone can help: is there a good method for determining when the veggies are caramelized in a recipe like this? I get very nervous caramelizing onions on their own, so in a bigger dish I'm especially on edge. Any tell-tale signs would be great. Relatedly: what does 'very low heat' look like on the knob of an electric stove? Just over the very first line separating intensity? In the first segment (between the first two lines)? This always makes me anxious...

It’s been a while since I got a “mmmmmm” grunt of satisfaction as my husband had his first bite of this. True, be patient with this. It does pay off with cooking it long. Served it with Pappardelle.

This is my go-to ragú and I've made it for years. I've never had the urge to add garlic, but I have been know to throw a little left over red pepper & addition Italian seasoning if the sausage is too bland. It always takes more than 40 minutes in the 1st step, but resist turning up the heat, the flavor is worth it. There's only 2 of us, so I make the exact recipe and freeze portions so we always have it available.

GREAT recipe! For those keeping Kosher or who don’t eat pork for other reasons, chicken sausage works great! Followed the recipe to a T otherwise and the timing seemed about right. I even made a double batch to share with a friend recovering from surgery. Yum!

Add 1/5 pound ground beef to the sausage. Add extra carrot and celery and 2-3 cloves chopped garlic. Cook till caramelized- brown on the bottom. Sauté 3 generous T tomato paste. Deglaze with 1 cup red wine then add crushed tomatoes and water along with 1 tsp Italian seasoning. Cook another 30-40 min

Delicious. I added bell pepper & garlic to the carrots, celery, and onions. I also tossed this in the Instant Pot for 20 minutes after cooking the vegetables down. I was just short on time but I suspect it intensified the flavors.

I make this whenever I have a slow Sunday around the house, maybe once or twice a month. Easy, cheap ingredients (except the tomatoes, don’t skimp on the tomatoes!), makes enough food to feed me all week, and it always turns out so good! Takes me maybe 2 hours with very little hands-on cooking, and it’s impressed absolutely every person I’ve cooked it for.

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Credits

Adapted from "The Four Seasons of Pasta" by Sara Jenkins and Nancy Harmon Jenkins (Avery, 2015)

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