Amalia’s Goat-Cheese Soufflazy

Amalia’s Goat-Cheese Soufflazy
Gentl and Hyers for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Amy Wilson.
Total Time
40 minutes
Rating
4(300)
Notes
Read community notes

This recipe offers a clever shortcut for a notoriously finicky dish, yielding an aromatic, billowy cloud of eggs, cheese and herbs. There are two tricks: First, separate and heat both the egg whites and yolks over a water bath before reuniting them. And second, don’t overwhip the whites. Take them to a medium stiff peak — when upturned on a whisk, they should flop over a tiny bit. Serve soufflazy for breakfast, brunch or as a first course at a dinner party, with buttered toast and a salad of bitter greens or arugula. —Samin Nosrat

Featured in: No Time for a Breakfast Soufflé? Try a ‘Soufflazy’

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Ingredients

Yield:4 servings
  • Butter for greasing pan
  • 8large eggs, separated
  • 6ounces goat cheese, crumbled (about a heaping cup)
  • 1teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme
  • Salt
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 3ounces Gruyère, finely grated on a box grater (about 1 heaping cup)
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (4 servings)

410 calories; 31 grams fat; 17 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 10 grams monounsaturated fat; 3 grams polyunsaturated fat; 1 gram carbohydrates; 0 grams dietary fiber; 0 grams sugars; 30 grams protein; 573 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Adjust an oven rack to the center position. Heat oven to 425 degrees.

  2. Step 2

    Grease the bottom and sides of a 9-by-12-inch rimmed baking sheet or 10-inch springform pan. Set aside.

  3. Step 3

    Make a water bath: Fill a medium pot with 2 inches of water, and bring to a simmer over medium heat.

  4. Step 4

    In a large metal bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, goat cheese, thyme, a pinch of salt and black pepper until the cheese breaks down. Reduce the heat so that the water stops simmering but continues to steam, and set the bowl over the pot. Whisk continuously until the mixture lightens in color and begins to thicken slightly. Use a rubber spatula to scrape the bottom and sides of the bowl every minute or so. The bowl should never get so hot that the eggs cook and begin to stick to the sides. When the mixture is thick, foamy and very warm to the touch (about 6 minutes), remove bowl from heat, and stir in Gruyère. Taste, adjust seasoning with salt as needed and set aside in a warm spot.

  5. Step 5

    Combine egg whites and a pinch of salt in another large metal bowl, and set over water bath. Using a clean whisk, whip egg whites over the water until they are very warm to the touch. Alternatively, use an electric hand mixer fitted with whisk attachment set to slow speed to beat whites until they are very warm to the touch. Remove bowl from heat, and continue whipping to silky, medium-stiff peaks, about 4 minutes total by hand or 3 minutes total with electric mixer.

  6. Step 6

    Use a rubber spatula to gently add in half the egg whites to the yolk mixture, and fold until combined. Fold in remaining whites, scraping through to the bottom of the bowl to ensure thorough mixing. Pour mixture into prepared baking sheet (or cake pan), and slide carefully onto center oven rack.

  7. Step 7

    Bake for 11 to 13 minutes (18 to 21 minutes if using cake pan), refraining from opening the oven door, until the soufflé puffs up, turns golden brown and an inserted wooden skewer comes out mostly (but not entirely) clean. If you jiggle the pan, there should be the slightest hint of wiggle left to the soufflé.

  8. Step 8

    Use a serving spoon to scoop onto plates. Serve immediately with buttered toast and green salad, if desired.

Tip
  • Do not use a baking pan with a nonstick coating for this dish.

Ratings

4 out of 5
300 user ratings
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Private Notes

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Cooking Notes

After just the first reading of the recipe, I feel it would be easier to just make a true souffle. I see nothing "Soufflazy" about it.

Would a cast iron pan heated in the oven as it pre-heats work?

Could this be done with another type of cheese?

Why is this called "soufflazy?" It seems like almost as much work as a traditional soufflé...

Having read the article that accompanies this, I'm confused. The "inventor" of the dish claims to have gotten her inspiration from watching another chef make a souffle without first heating the separated eggs, but still getting good results. Yet this recipe calls for the more time consuming, extra steps of doing just that.

I also want to add that there’s nothing lazy about this soufflé. It took me close to 45 minutes to put this mess together. And I immediately knew by the impossibility of folding the crumbly whites into the runny sabayon that this was going to be a mess. Then the baking sheet? Where did that idea come from? The whole mixture spread and of course never rose and was done in about 3 minutes. It’s not like I’d never done a soufflé in my life, either! Ms. Nosrat must be playing a joke on us.

Wow this sounds like a lot of trouble. I've been making savory souffles for years and never heated the separated eggs or "over whipped" the whites so that the interior was "dry."

This is a little confusing. Does it mean a 9x12 casserole pan or a 9x12 baking pan? It seems like a lot of liquid for a 9x12 rimmed baking sheet with 1 inch sides.

For me, this recipe is more work than making a traditional shuffle. All the steps with the hot water bath is just a lot for work for not much benefit. I'll stick with making traditional shuffles, thank you.

We enjoyed this, but considering the extra work and the extra dishes, next time I'll make a cheese omelet.

This looks like an insane amount of work. I make a regular, Julia Child cheese soufle. Its quite easy once you've done it and it works every time.

This soufflazy does sound rather soufflaborious!

As a first time soufflé (or soufflazy) cook, this will also be my last time. This recipe was written in such a way as to be deceivingly easy and there was nothing easy, lazy, or fast about it. It took me almost an hour to put this breakfast together and in the end I had something resembling mediocre scrambled-eggs with cheese. I consider myself a slightly better than average home cook, I would never recommend your average home cook or anyone else of my abilities attempt this recipe.

Yes, what a fuss and all that washing up too. A perfectly acceptable - one pot and one ceramic casserole - souffle is achieved, grace a la mere du chef Jacques Pepin, without separating the egg white/yolk at all. Perfect as well for overcoming those spinach or broccoli rabe inhibitions. However, clear from this recipe I have to up my game from the pedestrian Jarlsberg.

Too much work for me. I would take a cheesy scramble any day over this.

I can see that whisking the yolks with the goat cheese and putting it over the water bath to whisk it further as it is very gently heating - this is the equivalent work to just making the bechamel! There is absolutely no way this recipe is faster or less laborious than a regular soufflé. But it seems perfectly tasty as a variation.

Jacques Pepin’s mother, out of inexperience and necessity, created a “short-cut” souffle that is dependable and delicious. Compared to her ingenuity, this recipe is way too complicated. When we want souffles we bow towards Mother Pepin. Perfection, every time.

Having just made a smoked cheese and asparagus soufflé two nights ago, I can say it was less work that what this recipe seems to require. Mine was a billowing specimen of visual delight and savory surprise. Make the darn soufflé.

I have made this quite a few times with different goat & sheep cheeses. Goat Gouda is especially good. A bit fussy at first but after a few tries it flows nicely I like to sprinkle Sumac powder on top and add a bit of lime juice to the custardy part. Thank you Samin

I love sumac powder! I include in most dishes with spices. Thanks for mentioning it.

The word “lazy” should be immediately removed. This recipe is time consuming and pot consuming. And it bakes in minutes. Really annoying when you write an article to simplify but make it an enormously time consuming recipe. Did anyone even try this at NYT? Everyone... just make your regulars soufflé ... forget about warming anything. Just bring your eggs to room temp.

Made this as written, except for an herbed hard cheese in place of the gruyerre and thyme. Baked in a 10" spring form pan. Looked just like the photo, rose well, was tasty. However, I would agree with other posters that this is not easier or faster than a traditional souffle. Also guessing this isn't as flexible. I guess this is useful for those avoiding flour. I'll try the pre heated egg whites for the next meringue pie I make, see if it really prevents breaking or weeping.

How do you insert the skewer in Step 7 without opening the oven door?

Could this be cooked in a le creuset pan (skillet or omelette pan)?

This soufflazy does sound rather soufflaborious!

Maybe skip the water bath? I made something nearly identical (but dessert - used cream cheese and some sugar) - BUT without the water bath. It was very simple and easy and tasty. The cooking was very different. Baked in a pie pan at 300 degrees. About 30 minutes.

This was my first attempt at making a soufflé and I was eager to try. I believe followed the recipe except that I halved it. I used my own fresh lemon thyme from the garden and used a cheese similar to gruyère that I had. It was baked in a tin cake pan with a removable base. I misjudged the cooking time (15 minutes) and unfortunately it was somewhat dry and over cooked. Maybe 12-13 min. Would be better.

As a first time soufflé (or soufflazy) cook, this will also be my last time. This recipe was written in such a way as to be deceivingly easy and there was nothing easy, lazy, or fast about it. It took me almost an hour to put this breakfast together and in the end I had something resembling mediocre scrambled-eggs with cheese. I consider myself a slightly better than average home cook, I would never recommend your average home cook or anyone else of my abilities attempt this recipe.

Exactly my experience. It was a lot of work, and it was time consuming to beat the eggs.

I used to make something like this when I was 10, calling the concoction “loafy eggs”: yolks mixed with grated cheese and flavorings, folded into whipped egg whites and cooked stovetop in a covered pan. Were I to try it again I’d add some leftover or ready-made béchamel to to the yolk mixture for creaminess. No way I’d spend all the time and effort called for in this recipe.

You took the air out of my hope for an easy recipe. Back to the variations on corn pudding for a whipped egg treat.

This looks like an insane amount of work. I make a regular, Julia Child cheese soufle. Its quite easy once you've done it and it works every time.

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Credits

Adapted From Amalia Mariño

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