Roasted Chicken With Fish-Sauce Butter

Roasted Chicken With Fish-Sauce Butter
Christopher Simpson for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews
Total Time
45 minutes
Rating
5(2,457)
Notes
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Roasting chicken thighs in a hot oven is a hands-off way to achieve two of life’s greatest pleasures: crispy skin and golden schmaltz. And you want that chicken fat because it will crisp hand-torn bread into croutons. This meal is made even more lovely thanks to a bold but balanced fish-sauce butter that you whip up on the stovetop while the rest of the meal takes care of itself in the oven. Be sure to start with cold butter; the gradual melting of the fat helps thicken the sauce without breaking it.

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Ingredients

Yield:4 servings
  • 4bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs (about 2 pounds)
  • Kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) and black pepper
  • 2tablespoons olive oil
  • ¾pound bread, crusts removed, bread torn into bite-size pieces (about 4 cups; see Tip)
  • 1tablespoon dark brown sugar
  • 1tablespoon fish sauce
  • 1tablespoon lemon juice
  • 3tablespoons cold unsalted butter, kept whole
  • Cilantro leaves with tender stems, for serving
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (4 servings)

728 calories; 45 grams fat; 14 grams saturated fat; 1 gram trans fat; 19 grams monounsaturated fat; 8 grams polyunsaturated fat; 45 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams dietary fiber; 8 grams sugars; 36 grams protein; 917 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Heat oven to 450 degrees. Pat the chicken dry with paper towels and season lightly with salt and pepper. (The fish-sauce butter is plenty salty, so don’t overdo the salt here.) Arrange the chicken skin-side up on a sheet pan and drizzle the oil over the chicken skin, coating it evenly. Roast until the chicken is light gold and the sheet pan is pooling with hot, rendered chicken fat, about 25 minutes.

  2. Step 2

    Take the sheet pan out of the oven, scatter the bread around the chicken and toss gently to coat in the chicken fat. Place the pan back in the oven and roast until the chicken is golden, crispy and sizzling (you’ll hear it), about 15 minutes.

  3. Step 3

    While the chicken roasts, combine the brown sugar, fish sauce and lemon juice in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cook, occasionally swirling the pan or stirring the sauce with a wooden spoon, until bubbling vigorously and the mixture has reduced by about half, 2 to 3 minutes. This part is fun: Turn off the heat and add the butter, constantly swirling the pan or stirring with a wooden spoon, until all of the butter has melted and incorporated into the fish sauce mixture.

  4. Step 4

    To serve, scatter the cilantro all over the chicken and bread and spoon some of the fish-sauce butter over each chicken thigh, reserving some to add to each plate for dipping the chicken and croutons while eating (which is divine).

Tip
  • Many breads will work here, especially stale loaves that you’re trying to use up. Crusty sourdough lends pleasurable tang for instance, while chewy tender milk bread tastes comfortingly sweet.

Ratings

5 out of 5
2,457 user ratings
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Cooking Notes

A hit with 2 adults and 2 kids. A couple observations: 1) even though it seems like it won’t be enough sauce, it’s very intense and you don’t need more than the recipe calls for (ie don’t double it like I did). 2) keep an eye on the bread so it doesn’t burn (ie don’t let your bread burn like I did)

This recipe is absolutely fantastic. My husband and I muttered “oh my god” multiple times while eating this. We made it with gluten free bread and it worked perfectly. I wouldn’t change a single thing - make it exactly as written. Salty sour sweet umami Oh my god! Served with roasted Brussel sprouts with apricot preserves and bacon. Best home cooked meal we’ve made it months.

This is absolutely delicious and I encourage everyone to make it. However: 1. I’m a total schmaltz crouton goblin, and even I found this to be too much bread. Try cutting the recommended amount of bread in half. 2. Consider adding 1 tbsp of soy to the sauce. There’s so little of it, in the end, that a more intense salinity is a great thing. 3. Sauté piles and piles of spinach (or bok choi, or chard) to nestle underneath the chicken.

Fantastic recipe! Pre-Covid me would have passed it by: "Fish sauce? Pure sodium. They expect me to eat SUGAR? And croutons? Carbs cooked in fat." I would have amended it to read "Sous vide skinless, boneless chicken breasts and drizzle with lemon juice," thereby missing out on one of the best chicken dishes I have ever cooked. I really like my new, post-Covid cooking. Last night I made fish with full-fat coconut milk (another from NY Times), it was divine!

Pls don't use foil--we hv a trash (pollution) crisis in addition to the climate crisis. We're hated globally for our excesses, so this is a nat.-sec. issue, too. Pls: * Use tea towels to wring greens/press tofu. * When chillg pie crust, wrap it in waxed paper, & wrap that in a tea towel. * Cover restg bread dough w a tea towel. * Store food in reusable containers, or in the fridge in their cookg pot/servg bowl (covered w a plate or lid). Our ancestors cooked well w-o disposables; we can, too.

I lined the pan with aluminum foil. Saved scrubbing after dinner. It was delicious!

This sauce is also really really good over popcorn.

Incredible payoff for very little prep. Great crisp on the chicken skin, while the meat stayed very tender. The crispy bread is incredible. I served it with smashed potatoes and green beans with the fish sauce butter drizzled over them. Dinner-party worthy.

I like my croutons with the fat evenly distributed, so I poured the fat out of the sheet pan into a bowl with the bread and added a little olive oil for good measure before I put the croutons back on the sheet to cook with the chicken. It was definitely worth it.

Extremely good. I made it on a quarter sheet pan but next time will use a slightly bigger pan to get more bread on there. Also, and this might be specific to my oven, but I cooked the chicken skin side down for half of the first 25 minutes, so get it crispier. Other than that I didn't change a thing and it was incredible.

Definitely keep an eye on the chicken and bread. I heard no sizzling, and the bread turned dark brown and the chicken was cooked well before the 15 minutes.

As delicious as chicken fat croutons sound, if you have your hands on some baby bok choy, roll around in pan juices and bake on the same tray for the 10 final minutes. Incredible and simple recipe!

Why remove the bread crusts? They're the most flavorful part; and at the end of Step 2, the bread pieces, judging by the photo, are lightly browned anyway. (The coating of chicken-fat+juices should prevent charring of the crust.)

I put a head of broccoli florets in with the bread pieces. Super!

This was so good! Judge the amount of bread you put in on the amount of chicken fat that has rendered. It’s important that each piece gets some on it. Incredibly easy to make and very delicious. You could almost double the sauce!

This is one of the best NYT recipes ever, and I’ve made several that we rated ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️. I used two smallish leg quarters for the two of us, subbed parsley for the cilantro, and added about 2 teaspoons of soy sauce. The bread was Tuscany-style. Next time I will use cooking spray: a lot of the bread stuck to the foil. I served it with fresh corn salad, but it would’ve been great with any side dish. Keeper!

Uneven. The high-temperature roasting gave a nice crisp skin, but made the meat stringy. Croutons roasted in the chicken fat worked really well! The sauce was OK, a nice garnish but not spectacular, essentially sweet and sour with some umami. The whole was not more than the sum of its parts. Also, it separated pretty quickly. As for the fatty chicken parts and the fatty croutons with a buttery sauce on top – Eric Kim must have a fantastic metabolism. A quick splashy dinner, but no raves here.

This was a 10/10, So simple but so delicious. My 7- and 9-year-old grandchildren loved it.

For those of you who have made this, does the brown sugar make the sauce taste sweet? I'm all for adding sweet to bring out umami, but tend to shy away from this amount of sugar. Any advice?

The sugar seemed to mitigate the saltiness of the fish sauce rather than add sweetness. I used light brown sugar, since I don’t care for the taste of the dark brown.

These are great! The crouton trick is really brilliant. The fish sauce buerre blanc is quite lovely.

Very tasty. Crisp skin, savory sauce. Followed a note here and only cooked bread 5 minutes. Any longer and it would have burned. And pro tip: when removing from oven stand off to the side to avoid spilling hot oil in yourself. Especially if wearing shorts like I was :)

Simple and delicious. If you don't like fish sauce I would avoid it but I loved the sauce. The chicken thighs are a great vessel for it but I will be applying it elsewhere going forward. A simple ratio of 1:1:1:3 (fish sauce, brown sugar, lemon juice, and cold butter) makes it easy to scale up or down as well.

Fish sauce was way too strong here. Don’t make it again.

That sauce...I could eat that on many things. Even the hubs liked it, and he's cranky when I make chicken sometimes.

Make that four minutes on the croutons

I thought the sauce was far too sweet. It sounded great, so I doubled the recipe, but we didn't finish it. I far prefer the NYT Trini-Chinese chicken.

I just have to thank the commenter who suggested using the fish-butter sauce on popcorn. I do this practically every weekend now! It's so delicious.

This is delicious. I make it all the time! No need to add anything extra. I like to use leftover slightly stale sourdough for the bread.

Delicious--crispy skin, perfectly cooked chicken. Not enough fat rendered, so used half the bread. Doubled the sauce, and could have made more. Overall wonderful--and we will make it again. Second recipe I have made with fish sauce (best burger ever,) so thank you Eric Kim, for the magic elixir.

This was deeply disappointing. I followed the recipe exactly. The sauce was overly sweet and the flavours never really came together. Agree with the user who said the sauce felt like eating a pound of butter. Sweet butter with a fish sauce background taste. It needs additions - would try ginger, garlic, soy, heat. Tasted ok on the chicken, not on the bread. Really needs vegetables or something else cooked alongside.

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