Buttermilk Sugar Biscuits

Updated Oct. 12, 2023

Buttermilk Sugar Biscuits
Chris Simpson for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Sophia Pappas. Sugar Biscuits
Total Time
1 hour
Prep Time
5 minutes
Cook Time
55 minutes
Rating
4(1,040)
Notes
Read community notes

These wonderful hearty biscuits, from the brilliant baker Briana Holt of Tandem Coffee + Bakery in Portland, Maine, are crusty on the outside but tender on the inside, with distinct layers that are fun to peel apart while eating. Different from fluffy, airy Southern biscuits, Ms. Holt’s biscuits are like sturdy, salty-sweet Tempur-Pedic pillows that bounce back when you press into them. At Tandem, these beauties are split and served slathered with butter and fruit jam or, in an especially divine combination, cream cheese and hot pepper jelly. —Eric Kim

Featured in: The Best Biscuits Outside of the South

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Ingredients

Yield:9 biscuits
  • 1cup/227 grams cold unsalted butter
  • 3⅓cups/425 grams all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling
  • ½cup/100 grams granulated sugar
  • 1tablespoon baking powder
  • teaspoons kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) or 1¾ teaspoons fine sea salt
  • cups/300 grams cold buttermilk
  • Melted butter and flaky sea salt (both optional), for finishing
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (9 servings)

422 calories; 23 grams fat; 14 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 6 grams monounsaturated fat; 1 gram polyunsaturated fat; 49 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram dietary fiber; 13 grams sugars; 6 grams protein; 279 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Heat oven to 375 degrees and line a large sheet pan with parchment paper or foil.

  2. Step 2

    Coarsely grate the butter onto a plate, then freeze until cold and hard, at least 10 minutes. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder and salt. Add the butter to the dry ingredients. Using a spoon, toss together until all of the butter is coated with flour.

  3. Step 3

    Add half the buttermilk and toss with the spoon. When incorporated, add the rest of the buttermilk and gently toss again, without mashing together or overmixing, until the dry ingredients are lightly hydrated throughout. The mixture will be crumbly.

  4. Step 4

    Flour a clean surface and dump the mixture directly onto it. Using your hands, gently press the crumbs together and then use a floured rolling pin or empty wine bottle to roll the mass gently but firmly into a 1-inch-thick rectangle. Fold the dough in half: Using a bench scraper, lift the top half off the surface and fold it over the bottom half. This step may be crumbly and messy at first, but just go for it and fold what you can down from the top. Repeat this roll-and-fold motion 5 times, flouring the surface and dough as needed and using the bench scraper to straighten the edges as needed. The dough will come together as you roll it. Rotate the mixture after each fold to create a square.

  5. Step 5

    Build the final layer: Fold the dough in half one last time, then roll to about 1½ inches thick to create a 6-inch square, using the bench scraper to straighten out the edges.

  6. Step 6

    Using the bench scraper or a sharp knife, cut straight down into the square to create a 3-by-3 grid of 9 squares, then place them on your sheet pan, upside down if you’d like taller biscuits. Bake for 25 to 35 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through, until risen, golden brown on top, and slightly pale on the sides. Don’t worry if a couple of the biscuits tip over or if melted butter pools underneath. Brush the tops with melted butter and sprinkle with flaky sea salt, if using.

Ratings

4 out of 5
1,040 user ratings
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Private Notes

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Cooking Notes

I've asked this question many times and have never received an answer from NYT Cooking or NYT Bakers. King Arthur Flour, easily called "The Gold Standard" for flour, lists the weight of AP flour at 120 grams/Cup. 3.33 Cups would equal 399.6 grams. Humidity, etc, etc can cause some variance, of course, but, to me, NYT baking recipes are all over the place on flour weights . . . except for Claire Saffitz' recipes!

For those of you confused by the folding process- there’s a lovely video on YouTube Briana made during COVID times when they sold this biscuit recipe to support the bakery. Just put her name in the search bar and it should come up. And for the record, these biscuits are absolute perfection.

Love the assumption that you may not have a rolling pin, so use a wine bottle. But when it comes to folding the dough, everyone has a bench scraper lol.

for Betsy OakPark - imagine a pancake on a griddle. use the spatula to lift half the pancake up, and fold it over on top of the other side of the pancake. Then turn the half-moon pancake a quarter turn and repeat. for the dough, the bench scraper is used like the spatula, to lift half of the dough up to flop over the other half, like closing a book. then you turn the folded dough and repeat until you've done your 5 turns, etc. hope it helps.

I asked a baking instructor at King Arthur about this--he acknowledged that their weight is lighter than the rest, and it has to do with how they measure. I think most recipes assume somewhere between 120g (low) and roughly 140g (high). If I'm using a KA recipe, I stick with their standard, but if I'm converting volume to weights, I usually go with 130g per cup of AP flour.

The thing I like best about this biscuit recipe is that the biscuits are square! No cutting out round biscuits & then having to deal w/ the scraps.

I've been making biscuits for 53 years now. Some are poor, some are good and some are great. I just read a lot of these notes that you folks wrote about making these biscuits and I'm flabbergasted! For heavens sake just make the biscuits! Don't worry if it's 2 grams off. If you don't like what you made do it again! And for heavens sake have fun and experiment! That's a big part of what this cooking thing is supposed to be.

The cream cheese and pepper jelly combo mentioned here, and in the corresponding article, is no surprise to this home chef raised in S. Louisiana. An entire block of cream cheese drowning in a jello-y pool of pepper jelly, served with a side of Ritz crackers, is a standard holiday/celebration dish on many Southern tables.

HEAVENLY BISCUITS. I have made Briana's biscuits successfully and let me tell you, they are easy and good. As someone who ruins 7/10 things I bake I can say this recipe is pretty darn foolproof. Stop obsessing about ingredient weight/volume and buy yourself a kitchen scale - they are like $20 and take up no room. Or don't, and follow the recipe and you'll still have good biscuits.

A six inch square of dough cut into nine pieces means each biscuit is 1.5 inches square. Seems like an awfully small biscuit to me.

I made this today because (1) we got Covid (thrice Now) ans (2) my man loves biscuits. One word: WOW!!!! Do not let the steps here intimidate. Yes this is all about creating layers while keeping that butter chill. Just trust your hands, the spoon and the rolling pin Have fun and get ready to bow down to the amazing texture and flavor these bad boys have to offer!!

Grating butter seems to be the new thing. I'd use a food processor to grate the butter, remove it from the bowl for freezing and then use the processor to mix the dry ingredients and process the butter and buttermilk by pulsing the blade, and then proceed with booking the dough.

Could these be frozen then baked later?

This is another extreme hybrid product of biscuit / scone / rough puff recipes and technique. Having chased the perfect biscuit for many years I’ve learned that you can’t go wrong if you sift and weigh your flour (regardless of its brand and protein content), use high quality butter and real buttermilk — not the make at home substitutes, which create a similar reaction but do not taste the same. And FYI, ALL biscuits can be square if you roll or pat the dough into a square instead of a circle.

I wish I could view a short video of the technique of lifting the top half off the bottom half and making its way around....I can't visualize this by the way it was written. Does anyone else have a different better way of describing this technique so I could it out?

My biscuits didn’t rise. Boo Hoo. Was making these for strawberry shortcake and it was tolerable but not great.

Just made these, and I really like the bench scraper folding and cutting method. For me, these needed about 8 extra mins in the oven to become golden on top. Layers were really pleasant! I would prefer a salty-sweet or savory buttery biscuit, though. Has anyone tried cutting down the sugar w these? I'm curious if less sugar would throw off ratios or moisture content or something.

I’ve made these biscuits at least a dozen times now. I’ve used different butters (European, American), different buttermilks (low fat, whole fat) and they always turn out.

These biscuits are delicious and the cream cheese with pepper jelly is a mouth treat!

taoschris, I use this recipe for strawberry shortcake every year. It’s wonderful!

Would these work well as the first layer in a strawberry “shortcake”? My mother used to make that dessert with biscuits.

I made these yesterday for strawberry shortcake. I had hard time grating the butter so I rewatched the video (love Eric Kim!) to see the exact grater he was using. My friends said the biscuits were great but I thought they were kind of tough and decidedly not flaky. I realized as I rewatched that I only used 1 stick of butter, not 1 cup. oops. ha ha. They were thankfully well disguised under perfectly ripe strawberries and mounds of whipped cream. Which could make anything taste better.

The flavor turned out well, but didn’t rise very well despite making high altitude modifications. I really with NY Times would add high altitude tips to its baking recipes.

Thanks Dave G! My feelings exactly! Don’t get hung up on weights & measures—especially with a standard like biscuits—just make ‘em!

These are my go-to biscuit for strawberry shortcake. They're buttery and slightly sweet and overall perfect. Decadent. I think the step of grating and freezing the butter is messy. Easier to place large pieces of butter in flour mixture, break down into smaller pieces using the bench scraper, then break down even further using a pastry blender.

These turned out wonderfully! The biscuits were flakey and tender, with nice rich flavour. I made them mostly as directed and my pastry cutter and bench scraper were helpful tools along the way. Will bake again.

Thanks to Eric and Briana for more biscuits. More biscuits always good. Isn’t this technique pretty well documented on ATK? Also, if you don’t want the accordion I think they recommend to use a sharp knife. Good be better for bacon egg and cheese. Thanks again.

I have made these twice and twice I've ended up with biscuits and a pan of liquid butter about 1/8" deep. I followed the recipe closely weighing my dry ingredients and freezing my grated butter. I'm an experienced baker and I don't know what's going wrong.

I have been waiting for someone to be brave enough to try making the dough ahead of time, freeze, and bake it later, and report back to us if that works. Still no one has tried that? Any volunteers? It would be great to pop 2 or 3 in the oven from the freezer from time to time, as needed.

Delicious and easy…watch the video.

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Credits

Recipe by Briana Holt

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