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The fedora hat's brim is usually around {{convert|2.5|in|cm}} wide, but can be wider,<ref name="Kilgour"/> can be left raw-edged (left as cut), finished with a sewn overwelt or underwelt, or bound with a trim-ribbon. ''Stitched edge'' means that there is one or more rows of stitching radiating inward toward the crown. The [[John Cavanagh (hatter)|Cavanagh]] edge is a welted edge with invisible stitching to hold it in place and is a very expensive treatment that can no longer be performed by modern hat factories.<ref name="glossary">[http://www.publiusforum.com/2011/01/01/a-glossary-of-hat-terms-words-definitions-and-styles/ ''Hat Glossary''] Retrieved 03.14.2016.</ref> Fedora hats are not to be confused with small brimmed hats called [[trilbies]].<ref name="Kilgour"/><ref name="MintyDuds">[http://blog.mintyduds.com/looks/when-a-fedora-that-isnt-a-fedora-is-a-fedora ''When a Fedora That Isn't a Fedora Is a Fedora''] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170312034932/http://blog.mintyduds.com/looks/when-a-fedora-that-isnt-a-fedora-is-a-fedora |date=2017-03-12 }} Retrieved 03-09-2017.</ref>
 
Fedoras can be made of [[wool]], [[cashmere wool|cashmere]], [[rabbit]] or [[beaver]] [[felt]]. These felts can also be blended to each other with [[mink]] or [[chinchilla]]<ref name="glossary" /><ref>[http://www.montecristihats.com/furfelt_super.htm ''Super felt''] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160616232100/http://www.montecristihats.com/furfelt_super.htm |date=2016-06-16 }} Retrieved 2016-03-16.</ref> and rarely with [[vicuña wool|vicuña]], [[guanaco]], cervelt,<ref>[http://cervelt.com/ ''Cervelt''] Retrieved 2016-03-14.</ref> or [[mohair]]. They can also be made of [[Straw hat|straw]], cotton, waxed or oiled [[cotton]], [[hemp]], [[linen]] or leather.
 
A special variation is the rollable, foldaway or crushable fedora (rollable and crushable are not the same) with a certain or open crown (open-crown fedoras can be bashed and shaped in many variations). Special fedoras have a ventilated crown with [[grommet]]s, [[mesh]] inlets or penetrations for a better air circulation. Fedoras can be lined or unlined and have a leather<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.publiusforum.com/2011/01/02/observations-on-fedora-sweatbands-and-fedora-dating-tips/|title=Observations on Fedora Sweatbands, Size Tags, and Fedora Dating Tips|work=Publius Forum|date=2 January 2011 }}</ref> or cloth<ref>[http://www.brentblack.com/pages/details_sweatbands.html ''Sweatbands''] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160314225014/http://www.brentblack.com/pages/details_sweatbands.html |date=2016-03-14 }} Retrieved 2016-03-15.</ref> or [[ribbon]] sweatband. Small feathers are sometimes added as decoration. Fedoras can be equipped with a chinstrap, but this is uncommon.
 
==History==
The term ''fedora'' was in use as early as 1891. Its popularity soared, and eventually it eclipsed the similar-looking [[Homburg (hat)|homburg]].<ref name="Kilgour"/>
The word ''fedora'' comes from the title of an 1882 play by dramatist [[Victorien Sardou]], ''[[Fédora]],'' which was written for [[Sarah Bernhardt]].<ref>Encarta Dictionary, Microsoft Encarta Premium Suite 2004.</ref> The play was first performed in the United States in 1889. Bernhardt played Princess Fédora RomanovRomazoff, the heroine of the play. During the play, Bernhardt – a noted [[Cross-dressing|cross-dresser]] – wore a center-creased, soft brimmed hat. The hat was fashionable for women, and the women's rights movement adopted it as a symbol.<ref name="History of Hats" /><ref name="Escapist" /> After [[Edward VIII|Edward, Prince of Wales]] (later the Duke of Windsor) started to wear them in 1924, it became popular among men for its stylishness and its ability to protect the wearer's head from the wind and weather.<ref name="History of Hats">{{cite web | url=http://www.historyofhats.net/hat-history/history-of-fedora/ | title=History of Fedora Hats | work=History of Hats | access-date=June 24, 2014}}</ref><ref name="Escapist">{{cite web | url=http://www.escapistmagazine.com/articles/view/video-games/columns/criticalintel/11083-The-History-And-Abuse-of-The-Fedora | title=The History And Abuse of The Fedora | work=The Escapist | date=March 6, 2014 | access-date=June 24, 2014 | last=Rath | first=Robert | archive-date=May 14, 2017 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170514233105/http://www.escapistmagazine.com/articles/view/video-games/columns/criticalintel/11083-The-History-And-Abuse-of-The-Fedora | url-status=dead }}</ref> Since the early part of the 20th century, many [[Haredi Judaism|Haredi]] and other [[Orthodox Judaism|Orthodox]] [[Jew]]s have made black fedoras normal to their daily wear.<ref>Shields, Jody; Dugdale, John (1991). ''Hats: A Stylish History and Collector's Guide''. Clarkson Potter.</ref>
 
=== Fedoras in early American society ===
[[File:Douglas_Fairbanks,_movie_star,_speaking_in_front_of_the_Sub-Treasury_building,_New_York_City,_to_aid_the_third_Liberty_L_-_NARA_-_530736.tif|alt=|left|thumb|252x252px|[[Douglas Fairbanks]] in 1918 speaking in front of a large crowd of people wearing hat styles ranging from the fedora to the bowler.]]
During the early twentieth century, a hat was a staple of men's fashion and would be worn in almost all public places. However, as a social custom and common courtesy, men would remove their hats when at home or when engaged in conversation with women.<ref name=":52">{{Cite book|title=Esquire's Encyclopedia of 20th Century Men's Fashions|last=Schoeffler|first=O. E.|publisher=McGraw-Hill|year=1973|pages=323–342}}</ref> In addition, the ability to own a hat was culturally considered a sign of wealth due to fashion being recognized as a status symbol. Only those with few economic resources would venture out without a hat.<ref name=":4">{{Cite book|title=ABC of Men's Fashion|last=Amies|first=Hardy|publisher=V&A Publications|year=2007|pages=21, 44, 57–58}}</ref> The introduction of a new line of felt hats made from [[nutria]], an animal similar to the beaver, helped establish the fedora as a durable product. Prices, in the first decade of the twentieth century, for a nutria fedora ranged from ninety-eight cents to two dollars and twenty-five cents.<ref name=":4" />
Starting in the 1920s, fedoras began to rise in popularity after the Prince of Wales adopted the felt hat as his favored headwear. As a result, "the soft felt hat replaced the stiff hat as the best seller in the decade". The fedora soon took its place as a choice hat and joined other popular styles that included the [[derby (hat)|derby]] and the [[homburg hat|homburg]].<ref name=":4" />
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=== Women and fedoras ===
In the 1880s, long before the fedora became popular for men, French stage actress [[Sarah Bernhardt]] popularized the fedora for a female wearer.
The word Fédora isIn the name of aplay ''[[Fédora|play]]'' by the French author [[Victorien Sardou]], where Bernhardt played Princess Fédora Romazoff. <ref>Marciano, John Bemelmans. 2009. ''Anonyponymous: the forgotten people behind everyday words''. New York: Bloomsbury. p. 65. {{ISBN|9781596916531}}</ref> It soon became a common [[fashion accessory]] for many women, particularly among activists campaigning for [[First-wave feminism|gender equality during the late nineteenth century]].<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.historyofhats.net/hat-history/history-of-fedora/|title=History of Fedora – Who Invented the Fedora Hat?|website=www.historyofhats.net|access-date=April 6, 2019}}</ref> The fedora was eventually adopted as a defining symbol of the women's rights movement.
 
Fedoras continue to be worn by women, however,but not quite to the same extent as in the early twentieth century. Women's fedoras vary in form, texture, and color. In addition, these fedoras come in almost every color from basic black to bright red and even in the occasional animal print.<ref name=":22">{{Cite journal|last=Nestoras|first=Bessie|date=2013|title=Fall for Autumn|url=http://yearsoffashion.weebly.com/|journal=Gifts & Decorative Accessories|pages=120–130|via=BYU Library|access-date=2019-04-06|archive-date=2022-05-07|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220507215755/http://yearsoffashion.weebly.com/|url-status=dead}}</ref> Along with men's felt hats, women's fedoras were described as making a comeback in an article about 2007 fashion trends. Baseball caps, which had been the staple of headwear, were experiencing a decline in popularity amidst this "fedora renaissance".<ref>{{Cite journal|last=Briere|first=Rachel R.|date=2007|title=Crowning Glories: The Fedora is Making a Comeback Against the Baseball Cap|journal=The Sun (Lowell, MA)|via=Ebscohost}}</ref>
 
== Make and form ==
[[File:Rabbit_Goes_To_Your_Head-_Hat_Manufacture_in_Britain,_1940_D1283.jpg|alt=|left|thumb|224x224pxupright|A hat-making factory in the 1940s.]]
Fedoras are usually made by pressing a piece of felt over a mold, and using some kind of heat or sealant to help the felt keep its shape. In the past, molds were created by using a series of wooden blocks to create the shape of the hat, and the felt was pressed on with an iron.<ref name=":3">{{Cite journal|last=Updike|first=Robin|date=2017|title=A Hat for all Seasons Wayne Wichern|journal=Ornament|pages=48–53}}</ref> The current method is to use metal molds and machinery to create enough pressure to form the shape of the hat.<ref>{{Cite journal|last=Cohen|first=Edie|title=Heads Above the Rest|journal=Interior Design|pages=192–199}}</ref> After the general shape of the hat has been achieved, the hat makers attach some sort of decoration, usually a ribbon, between the brim and the crown of the hat. The brim is either left raw, or hemmed.<ref name=":3" /> The fedora is considered a soft hat, which means that it is usually constructed from felt, fur, or animal hides.<ref name=":6">{{Cite book|title=Noir Fashion and Noir as Fashion|last=Lukszo|first=Ula|publisher=Indiana University Press|year=2011|location=Indiana|pages=54–81}}</ref> There are variations from hat to hat, but the standard design includes a creased crown, angled brim, a pinch at the top of the hat, and some sort of decoration above the brim of the hat.<ref name=":12">{{Cite web|url=https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/fedora-hat-guide/|title=Fedora Felt Hat Guide — Gentleman's Gazette|website=www.gentlemansgazette.com|date=18 August 2017|language=en-US|access-date=March 17, 2019}}</ref> Men's fedoras especially tend to have stylized brims with edges that are turned down in the front and up in the back. As mentioned earlier, the width of the brim, overall size and color of the hats are &nbsp;subject to change with fashion trends. Women's hats also tend to have more elaborate decorations and slimmer designs.<ref name=":6" />
 
Because of the soft nature of the hat, many variations are possible with Fedorasfedoras. One variation of the hat includes the Stetson playboy hat which was common in the 1940s. The Stetson playboy hat involved a marketing success story, with a simple variation on the general form of the fedora becoming a significant trend in America. [[Al Capone]] was fond of the playboy style. Many pictures of Capone depict him sporting a Stetson playboy hat.<ref name=":12"/>
 
Contemporary takes on the fedora include asymmetrical brims, bright colors, eccentric patterns, and flashy decorations.<ref name=":22"/> Some fedoras are now made from straw, and other unconventional materials. However, despite the increase of artistic hats, the most commonly worn fedoras are still neutral colored, with simple shape and design.<ref name=":12"/>
 
== In popular culture ==
Coach [[Tom Landry]] wore the hat while he was the head coach of the [[Dallas Cowboys]]. It would later become his trademark image. A [[cenotaph]] dedicated to Landry with a depiction of his fedora was placed in the official [[Texas State Cemetery]] in [[Austin, Texas|Austin]] at the family's request.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.cemetery.state.tx.us/pub/user_form.asp?pers_id=6810 |title=Thomas Wade Landry |work=Texas State Cemetery |access-date=March 4, 2013}}</ref> In addition the Cowboys wore a patch on their uniforms during the 2000 season depicting Landry's fedora.<ref>{{cite web |url=httphttps://espnwww.goespn.com/sportsnation/dallas/halloffame/story/_/id/6875079/tom-landry-deserved-better-hof-vote |title=ESPN DALLAS Hall of Fame - Tom Landry no longer top of mind |publisher=[[ESPN]] |date=January 2, 2010 |access-date=September 23, 2012}}</ref> His panel in the Cowboys “Ring of Honor” features a depiction of a fedora where a uniform number is shown for players.
 
Tom Baker's Doctor Who wears a Fedora almost identical to that of Indiana Jones.
 
Two ''[[Lupin III]]'' characters, [[Daisuke Jigen]] and [[Koichi Zenigata]], wear fedoras as their regular wear; Jigen because he's a retired gangster, and Zenigata because his look was inspired by old-time detectives such as ''[[Dick Tracy]]''.
 
[[Indiana Jones (character)|Indiana Jones]] re-popularized the fedora in the ''[[Indiana Jones franchise|''Indiana Jones]]'' franchise]].<ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.port-magazine.com/fashion/the-hats-heads-up/|title=The Hats: Heads Up|first=David|last=Hellqvist|access-date=October 10, 2013|work=Port Magazine|date=September 4, 2014}} [[Harrison Ford]] sported a [[Herbert Johnson (hatters)|Herbert Johnson]] felt fedora as Indiana Jones in ''[[Raiders of the Lost Ark]]''.</ref> The backstory of how he obtains the hat is told in the prologue of ''[[Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade]]'', the third film of the series, and the character who gives him the hat is credited as "Fedora".
 
[[Tom Baker]]'s [[Fourth Doctor]] from ''[[Doctor Who]]'' wears a Fedorafedora almost identical to that of Indiana Jones.
 
The character [[Freddy Krueger]], from the [[A Nightmare on Elm Street|''Nightmare on Elm Street'' franchise]], also wears a brown fedora.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://nypost.com/2016/10/29/how-a-strange-man-in-a-fedora-inspired-wes-cravens-freddy-krueger/|title=How a strange man in a fedora inspired Wes Craven's Freddy Krueger|author=Reed Tucker|date=October 29, 2016|work=The New York Post|access-date=April 30, 2019}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=https://bloody-disgusting.com/toys/3557801/freddy-krueger-kicks-off-cryptozoics-new-vinyl-terrorz-toy-line/|title=Freddy Krueger Kicks Off Cryptozoic's New "Vinyl Terrorz" Toy Line|author=John Squires|date=April 24, 2019|work=Bloody Disgusting|access-date=April 30, 2019}}</ref>
 
The fedora hat of the ninth president of Turkey, [[Süleyman Demirel]], was a famous part of the president's image.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.gettyimages.com/detail/news-photo/fedora-hat-of-turkeys-ninth-president-and-former-prime-news-photo/477678250|title=Turkey's 9th President Suleyman Demirel dies at 91|author=Anadolu Agency|work=Getty Images}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=HATS: A POLITICAL SYMBOL OF TURKISH HISTORY|url=http://www.ekrembugraekinci.com/makale.asp?id=603|access-date=November 27, 2017}}</ref>
 
Ice hockey coaches often wore one, most notably coaches [[Punch Imlach]], [[Toe Blake]], [[Billy Reay]], and [[Murray Armstrong]].<ref>{{Cite web |title=Linesman John D'Amico sits on top of the boards as head coach George... |url=https://www.gettyimages.co.uk/detail/news-photo/linesman-john-damico-sits-on-top-of-the-boards-as-head-news-photo/493898783 |access-date=2023-11-06 |website=Getty Images |language=en-gb}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Montreal Canadiens coach Hector Toe Blake on bench with team during... |url=https://www.gettyimages.co.uk/detail/news-photo/montreal-canadiens-coach-hector-toe-blake-on-bench-with-news-photo/84409504 |access-date=2023-11-06 |website=Getty Images |language=en-gb}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Chicago Blackhawks head coach Billy Reay during game vs Boston... |url=https://www.gettyimages.co.uk/detail/news-photo/chicago-blackhawks-head-coach-billy-reay-during-game-vs-news-photo/103104083 |access-date=2023-11-06 |website=Getty Images |language=en-gb}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Murray Armstrong Hockey Fund |url=https://dupioneermovement.com/sports/2022/4/15/murray-armstrong-hockey-fund |access-date=2023-11-06 |website=University of Denver Pioneer Movement |language=en}}</ref>
 
In the 21st century, the fedora has made a reappearance in the fashion world along with other types of classic hats such as the porkpie and the homburg. In addition, the fedora has appeared in recent portrayals of movies and television shows that are set in the past, such as ''[[Mad Men]]'' (2007–15), ''[[Shutter Island (film)|Shutter Island]]'' (2010), and ''[[Boardwalk Empire]]'' (2010–14). [[Michael Jackson]] also frequently wore a fedora while performing on stage.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/gallery/gq-style-news-fedora-hat-hats-guide-films-catwalk-tv|title=The best fedoras from film and TV history|last=Millar|first=Jamie|website=British GQ|date=5 August 2015|access-date=April 6, 2019}}</ref>
 
By the early 21st century, the fedora had become a symbol of [[hipster (contemporary subculture)|hipster]]s.<ref name="rutenberg20120805">{{cite news | url=https://www.nytimes.com/2012/08/05/fashion/montauk-feels-the-effects-of-too-many-hipsters.html | title=Montauk's Hipster Fatigue | work=The New York Times | date=August 5, 2012 | access-date=November 19, 2015 | author=Rutenberg, Jim | pages=ST1}}</ref> ''[[Vice (magazine)|Vice]]'' has referred to the early 2000s as a "fedora [[renaissance]]", with celebrities like [[Johnny Depp]] and [[Pete Doherty|Peter Doherty]] wearing the hat. TheBy fedora2016, isthe oftenterm "fedora" became derisively associated with [[Neckbeard (slang)|neckbeard]] and [[incel]] stereotypes in online culture, with Vice stating "fedoras may be the single most-hated fashion accessory money can buy" ,<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.vice.com/en/article/8gevn4/i-bought-a-fedora-to-see-if-it-would-ruin-my-life|title=I Wore a Fedora for a Week to See if It Would Ruin My Life|last=Allegretti|first=David|date=November 21, 2016}}></ref> despite the fact that the hat in question is nearly always a trilby rather than a fedora. A popular meme featuring actor [[Jerry Messing]] tipping a trilby with the dialogue of "M'lady" is often associated with such spoofs of incel culture. A 2016 issue of ''[[The Unbeatable Squirrel Girl]]'' depicts [[Marvel Comics]] villain [[Mole Man]] reenacting the "M'lady" meme on the cover.<ref>{{Cite comic| writer = Ryan North| artist =Erica Henderson | story = The Unbeatable Squirrel Girl| title = Squirrel Girl Vol.2 10| volume = 2 | issue = 10| date = July 27, 2016| publisher = Marvel Comics}}</ref>
=== In film noir ===
[[File:Humphrey_Bogart_in_Casablanca_trailer.jpg|alt=|left|thumb|200x200px|Humphrey Bogart wearing a fedora in the film ''[[Casablanca (film)|Casablanca]]''.]]
The fedora was worn by film actors such as [[Edward G. Robinson]], [[George Raft]] and [[Humphrey Bogart]].<ref>{{cite book|editor1-last=Bennington|editor1-first=J. Bret|editor2-last=Da Silva|editor2-first=Zenia Sacks|editor3-last=D'Innocenzo|editor3-first=Michael|editor4-last=Pugliese|editor4-first=Stanislao G.|author-last=Eliopoulos|author-first=Peter|chapter-url=https://wwwbooks.google.co.ukcom/books/edition/The_1930s/kdH6DAAAQBAJ?hlid=en&gbpv=1kdH6DAAAQBAJ&dq=Bogart+fedora&pg=PA186&printsec=frontcover|title=The 1930s: The Reality and the Promise|chapter=The Fedora: A Statement of an Era|location=Newcastle-Upon-Tyne, UK|publisher=Cambridge Scholars Publishing|year=2016|page=186|isbn=9781443892780}}</ref> The fedora was a characteristic of [[film noir]] and has been the chosen accessory of movie detectives and criminals alike. It was worn by Bogart as Sam Spade in ''[[The Maltese Falcon (1941 film)|The Maltese Falcon]]'' (1941) and Philip Marlowe in ''[[The Big Sleep (1946 film)|The Big Sleep]]'' (1946). Peter Eliopoulos wrote in ''The 1930s: The Reality and the Promise'': "The popular Bogart-styled fedora was worn slightly cocked, it was pulled down just above the eye line, so that the wearer peaked beneath the brim and through the cigarette smoke that gathered momentarily before curling itself around the top of the hat."<ref>Eliopoulos, ''The 1930s: The Reality and the Promise'', p.186</ref>
 
[[Billy Wilder]] wrote and directed the film ''[[Fedora (1978 film)|Fedora]]'' (1978), which takes its title from the female lead character played by [[Marthe Keller]]. In addition, fedoras are a strong theme throughout the picture. Most of Wilder's film's feature fedoras prominently in promotional materials as well as in the finished films.<ref>{{Cite book|title=Some Like it Wilder|last=Phillips|first=Gene D.|publisher=The University Press of Kentucky|year=2010|location=Kentucky}}</ref>
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Fedoras were an important accessory to the [[zoot suit]] ensemble which emerged onto the American fashion scene during the 1940s. Zoot suits were mainly associated with Mexican and African Americans and were largely worn in segregated minority communities. As a result, this style soon spread to local jazz musicians who adopted this look and brought it to their audiences.
 
In [[The Blues Brothers (film)|the movie]] of the same name, The Blues Brothers (who are [[blues]] musicians rather than jazzmen) wear black scant-brim fedoras as part of their black suit "uniform."
 
The association of the fedora with the zoot suit and gangster culture has caused the general public to view it according to this limited connotation.<ref name=":0">{{Cite book|title=A Stylish History of Jazz|last=McClendon|first=Alphonso D.|publisher=Bloomsbury Academic|year=2015|location=London|pages=15–42}}</ref>
 
== In Orthodox Judaism ==
In [[Orthodox Judaism]], fedoras have been an important addition to a man's wardrobe. [[Lithuanian Jews|Lithuanian]] {{lang|he-Latn|[[yeshiva]]}} students in the first half of 20th century wore light hats during prayer and sometimes even while studying, as evident in a rare footage of the [[Ponevezh Yeshiva]] and a photo of the [[Lomza Yeshiva]], both in Eastern Europe. Both the footage and the photo show students studying in their hats. Hasidic Jews wore black hats, albeit not fedoras, and in the later half of the 20th century, non-Hasidic (Lithuanian style) {{lang|he-Latn|yeshiva}} students began to wear black fedoras (or dark blue or gray). Today, many {{lang|he-Latn|yeshiva}} students and Orthodox men wear black fedoras for prayer and many even while walking outside. In recent years,{{When|date=August 2023}} [[Sephardi Jews|Sephardic Jews]] beganhave begun to wear black fedoras too.<ref>{{cite web |title=Sefardim and Hats - Right or wrong? |url=https://www.theyeshivaworld.com/coffeeroom/topic/sefardim-and-hats-right-or-wrong |website=Theyeshivaworld.com |publisher=[[Yeshiva World News]] |access-date=August 19, 2020}}</ref>
 
==See also==