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The fedora hat's brim is usually around {{convert|2.5|in|cm}} wide, but can be wider,<ref name="Kilgour"/> can be left raw-edged (left as cut), finished with a sewn overwelt or underwelt, or bound with a trim-ribbon. ''Stitched edge'' means that there is one or more rows of stitching radiating inward toward the crown. The [[John Cavanagh (hatter)|Cavanagh]] edge is a welted edge with invisible stitching to hold it in place and is a very expensive treatment that can no longer be performed by modern hat factories.<ref name="glossary">[http://www.publiusforum.com/2011/01/01/a-glossary-of-hat-terms-words-definitions-and-styles/ ''Hat Glossary''] Retrieved 03.14.2016.</ref> Fedora hats are not to be confused with small brimmed hats called [[trilbies]].<ref name="Kilgour"/><ref name="MintyDuds">[http://blog.mintyduds.com/looks/when-a-fedora-that-isnt-a-fedora-is-a-fedora ''When a Fedora That Isn't a Fedora Is a Fedora''] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170312034932/http://blog.mintyduds.com/looks/when-a-fedora-that-isnt-a-fedora-is-a-fedora |date=2017-03-12 }} Retrieved 03-09-2017.</ref>
Fedoras can be made of [[wool]], [[cashmere wool|cashmere]], [[rabbit]] or [[beaver]] [[felt]]. These felts can also be blended to each other with [[mink]] or [[chinchilla]]<ref name="glossary" /><ref>[http://www.montecristihats.com/furfelt_super.htm ''Super felt''] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160616232100/http://www.montecristihats.com/furfelt_super.htm |date=2016-06-16 }} Retrieved 2016-03-16.</ref> and rarely with [[vicuña wool|vicuña]], [[guanaco]], cervelt,<ref>[http://cervelt.com/ ''Cervelt''] Retrieved 2016-03-14.</ref> or [[mohair]]. They can also be made of [[Straw hat|straw]], cotton, waxed or oiled [[cotton]], [[hemp]], [[linen]] or leather.
A special variation is the rollable, foldaway or crushable fedora (rollable and crushable are not the same) with a certain or open crown (open-crown fedoras can be bashed and shaped in many variations). Special fedoras have a ventilated crown with [[grommet]]s, [[mesh]] inlets or penetrations for a better air circulation. Fedoras can be lined or unlined and have a leather<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.publiusforum.com/2011/01/02/observations-on-fedora-sweatbands-and-fedora-dating-tips/|title=Observations on Fedora Sweatbands, Size Tags, and Fedora Dating Tips|work=Publius Forum|date=2 January 2011 }}</ref> or cloth<ref>[http://www.brentblack.com/pages/details_sweatbands.html ''Sweatbands''] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160314225014/http://www.brentblack.com/pages/details_sweatbands.html |date=2016-03-14 }} Retrieved 2016-03-15.</ref> or [[ribbon]] sweatband. Small feathers are sometimes added as decoration. Fedoras can be equipped with a chinstrap, but this is uncommon.
==History==
The term ''fedora'' was in use as early as 1891. Its popularity soared, and eventually it eclipsed the similar-looking [[Homburg (hat)|homburg]].<ref name="Kilgour"/>
The word ''fedora'' comes from the title of an 1882 play by dramatist [[Victorien Sardou]], ''[[Fédora]],'' which was written for [[Sarah Bernhardt]].<ref>Encarta Dictionary, Microsoft Encarta Premium Suite 2004.</ref> The play was first performed in the United States in 1889. Bernhardt played Princess Fédora
=== Fedoras in early American society ===
[[File:Douglas_Fairbanks,_movie_star,_speaking_in_front_of_the_Sub-Treasury_building,_New_York_City,_to_aid_the_third_Liberty_L_-_NARA_-_530736.tif|alt=|left|thumb
During the early twentieth century, a hat was a staple of men's fashion and would be worn in almost all public places. However, as a social custom and common courtesy, men would remove their hats when at home or when engaged in conversation with women.<ref name=":52">{{Cite book|title=Esquire's Encyclopedia of 20th Century Men's Fashions|last=Schoeffler|first=O. E.|publisher=McGraw-Hill|year=1973|pages=323–342}}</ref> In addition, the ability to own a hat was culturally considered a sign of wealth due to fashion being recognized as a status symbol. Only those with few economic resources would venture out without a hat.<ref name=":4">{{Cite book|title=ABC of Men's Fashion|last=Amies|first=Hardy|publisher=V&A Publications|year=2007|pages=21, 44, 57–58}}</ref> The introduction of a new line of felt hats made from [[nutria]], an animal similar to the beaver, helped establish the fedora as a durable product. Prices, in the first decade of the twentieth century, for a nutria fedora ranged from ninety-eight cents to two dollars and twenty-five cents.<ref name=":4" />
Starting in the 1920s, fedoras began to rise in popularity after the Prince of Wales adopted the felt hat as his favored headwear. As a result, "the soft felt hat replaced the stiff hat as the best seller in the decade". The fedora soon took its place as a choice hat and joined other popular styles that included the [[derby (hat)|derby]] and the [[homburg hat|homburg]].<ref name=":4" />
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=== Women and fedoras ===
In the 1880s, long before the fedora became popular for men, French stage actress [[Sarah Bernhardt]] popularized the fedora for a female wearer.
Fedoras continue to be worn by women,
== Make and form ==
[[File:Rabbit_Goes_To_Your_Head-_Hat_Manufacture_in_Britain,_1940_D1283.jpg|alt=|left|thumb|
Fedoras are usually made by pressing a piece of felt over a mold, and using some kind of heat or sealant to help the felt keep its shape. In the past, molds were created by using a series of wooden blocks to create the shape of the hat, and the felt was pressed on with an iron.<ref name=":3">{{Cite journal|last=Updike|first=Robin|date=2017|title=A Hat for all Seasons Wayne Wichern|journal=Ornament|pages=48–53}}</ref> The current method is to use metal molds and machinery to create enough pressure to form the shape of the hat.<ref>{{Cite journal|last=Cohen|first=Edie|title=Heads Above the Rest|journal=Interior Design|pages=192–199}}</ref> After the general shape of the hat has been achieved, the hat makers attach some sort of decoration, usually a ribbon, between the brim and the crown of the hat. The brim is either left raw, or hemmed.<ref name=":3" /> The fedora is considered a soft hat, which means that it is usually constructed from felt, fur, or animal hides.<ref name=":6">{{Cite book|title=Noir Fashion and Noir as Fashion|last=Lukszo|first=Ula|publisher=Indiana University Press|year=2011|location=Indiana|pages=54–81}}</ref> There are variations from hat to hat, but the standard design includes a creased crown, angled brim, a pinch at the top of the hat, and some sort of decoration above the brim of the hat.<ref name=":12">{{Cite web|url=https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/fedora-hat-guide/|title=Fedora Felt Hat Guide — Gentleman's Gazette|website=www.gentlemansgazette.com|date=18 August 2017|language=en-US|access-date=March 17, 2019}}</ref> Men's fedoras especially tend to have stylized brims with edges that are turned down in the front and up in the back. As mentioned earlier, the width of the brim, overall size and color of the hats are
Because of the soft nature of the hat, many variations are possible with
Contemporary takes on the fedora include asymmetrical brims, bright colors, eccentric patterns, and flashy decorations.<ref name=":22"/> Some fedoras are now made from straw, and other unconventional materials. However, despite the increase of artistic hats, the most commonly worn fedoras are still neutral colored, with simple shape and design.<ref name=":12"/>
== In popular culture ==
Coach [[Tom Landry]] wore the hat while he was the head coach of the [[Dallas Cowboys]]. It would later become his trademark image. A [[cenotaph]] dedicated to Landry with a depiction of his fedora was placed in the official [[Texas State Cemetery]] in [[Austin, Texas|Austin]] at the family's request.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.cemetery.state.tx.us/pub/user_form.asp?pers_id=6810 |title=Thomas Wade Landry |work=Texas State Cemetery |access-date=March 4, 2013}}</ref> In addition the Cowboys wore a patch on their uniforms during the 2000 season depicting Landry's fedora.<ref>{{cite web |url=
Tom Baker's Doctor Who wears a Fedora almost identical to that of Indiana Jones.▼
Two ''[[Lupin III]]'' characters, [[Daisuke Jigen]] and [[Koichi Zenigata]], wear fedoras as their regular wear; Jigen because he's a retired gangster, and Zenigata because his look was inspired by old-time detectives such as ''[[Dick Tracy]]''.
[[Indiana Jones (character)|Indiana Jones]] re-popularized the fedora in the ''[[Indiana Jones
▲[[Tom Baker]]'s [[Fourth Doctor]] from ''[[Doctor Who]]'' wears a
The character [[Freddy Krueger]], from the [[A Nightmare on Elm Street|''Nightmare on Elm Street'' franchise]], also wears a brown fedora.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://nypost.com/2016/10/29/how-a-strange-man-in-a-fedora-inspired-wes-cravens-freddy-krueger/|title=How a strange man in a fedora inspired Wes Craven's Freddy Krueger|author=Reed Tucker|date=October 29, 2016|work=The New York Post|access-date=April 30, 2019}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=https://bloody-disgusting.com/toys/3557801/freddy-krueger-kicks-off-cryptozoics-new-vinyl-terrorz-toy-line/|title=Freddy Krueger Kicks Off Cryptozoic's New "Vinyl Terrorz" Toy Line|author=John Squires|date=April 24, 2019|work=Bloody Disgusting|access-date=April 30, 2019}}</ref>
The fedora hat of the ninth president of Turkey, [[Süleyman Demirel]], was a famous part of the president's image.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.gettyimages.com/detail/news-photo/fedora-hat-of-turkeys-ninth-president-and-former-prime-news-photo/477678250|title=Turkey's 9th President Suleyman Demirel dies at 91|author=Anadolu Agency|work=Getty Images}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=HATS: A POLITICAL SYMBOL OF TURKISH HISTORY|url=http://www.ekrembugraekinci.com/makale.asp?id=603|access-date=November 27, 2017}}</ref>
Ice hockey coaches often wore one, most notably coaches [[Punch Imlach]], [[Toe Blake]], [[Billy Reay]], and [[Murray Armstrong]].<ref>{{Cite web |title=Linesman John D'Amico sits on top of the boards as head coach George... |url=https://www.gettyimages.co.uk/detail/news-photo/linesman-john-damico-sits-on-top-of-the-boards-as-head-news-photo/493898783 |access-date=2023-11-06 |website=Getty Images |language=en-gb}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Montreal Canadiens coach Hector Toe Blake on bench with team during... |url=https://www.gettyimages.co.uk/detail/news-photo/montreal-canadiens-coach-hector-toe-blake-on-bench-with-news-photo/84409504 |access-date=2023-11-06 |website=Getty Images |language=en-gb}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Chicago Blackhawks head coach Billy Reay during game vs Boston... |url=https://www.gettyimages.co.uk/detail/news-photo/chicago-blackhawks-head-coach-billy-reay-during-game-vs-news-photo/103104083 |access-date=2023-11-06 |website=Getty Images |language=en-gb}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Murray Armstrong Hockey Fund |url=https://dupioneermovement.com/sports/2022/4/15/murray-armstrong-hockey-fund |access-date=2023-11-06 |website=University of Denver Pioneer Movement |language=en}}</ref>
In the 21st century, the fedora has made a reappearance in the fashion world along with other types of classic hats such as the porkpie and the homburg. In addition, the fedora has appeared in recent portrayals of movies and television shows that are set in the past, such as ''[[Mad Men]]'' (2007–15), ''[[Shutter Island (film)|Shutter Island]]'' (2010), and ''[[Boardwalk Empire]]'' (2010–14). [[Michael Jackson]] also frequently wore a fedora while performing on stage.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/gallery/gq-style-news-fedora-hat-hats-guide-films-catwalk-tv|title=The best fedoras from film and TV history|last=Millar|first=Jamie|website=British GQ|date=5 August 2015|access-date=April 6, 2019}}</ref>
By the early 21st century, the fedora had become a symbol of [[hipster (contemporary subculture)|hipster]]s.<ref name="rutenberg20120805">{{cite news | url=https://www.nytimes.com/2012/08/05/fashion/montauk-feels-the-effects-of-too-many-hipsters.html | title=Montauk's Hipster Fatigue | work=The New York Times | date=August 5, 2012 | access-date=November 19, 2015 | author=Rutenberg, Jim | pages=ST1}}</ref> ''[[Vice (magazine)|Vice]]'' has referred to the early 2000s as a "fedora [[renaissance]]", with celebrities like [[Johnny Depp]] and [[Pete Doherty|Peter Doherty]] wearing the hat.
=== In film noir ===
[[File:Humphrey_Bogart_in_Casablanca_trailer.jpg|alt=|left|thumb
The fedora was worn by film actors such as [[Edward G. Robinson]], [[George Raft]] and [[Humphrey Bogart]].<ref>{{cite book|editor1-last=Bennington|editor1-first=J. Bret|editor2-last=Da Silva|editor2-first=Zenia Sacks|editor3-last=D'Innocenzo|editor3-first=Michael|editor4-last=Pugliese|editor4-first=Stanislao G.|author-last=Eliopoulos|author-first=Peter|chapter-url=https://
[[Billy Wilder]] wrote and directed the film ''[[Fedora (1978 film)|Fedora]]'' (1978), which takes its title from the female lead character played by [[Marthe Keller]]. In addition, fedoras are a strong theme throughout the picture. Most of Wilder's film's feature fedoras prominently in promotional materials as well as in the finished films.<ref>{{Cite book|title=Some Like it Wilder|last=Phillips|first=Gene D.|publisher=The University Press of Kentucky|year=2010|location=Kentucky}}</ref>
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Fedoras were an important accessory to the [[zoot suit]] ensemble which emerged onto the American fashion scene during the 1940s. Zoot suits were mainly associated with Mexican and African Americans and were largely worn in segregated minority communities. As a result, this style soon spread to local jazz musicians who adopted this look and brought it to their audiences.
In [[The Blues Brothers (film)|the movie]] of the same name, The Blues Brothers (who are [[blues]] musicians rather than jazzmen) wear black scant-brim fedoras as part of their black suit "uniform."
The association of the fedora with the zoot suit and gangster culture has caused the general public to view it according to this limited connotation.<ref name=":0">{{Cite book|title=A Stylish History of Jazz|last=McClendon|first=Alphonso D.|publisher=Bloomsbury Academic|year=2015|location=London|pages=15–42}}</ref>
== In Orthodox Judaism ==
In [[Orthodox Judaism]], fedoras have been an important addition to a man's wardrobe. [[Lithuanian Jews|Lithuanian]] {{lang|he-Latn|[[yeshiva]]}} students in the first half of 20th century wore light hats during prayer and sometimes even while studying, as evident in a rare footage of the [[Ponevezh Yeshiva]] and a photo of the [[Lomza Yeshiva]], both in Eastern Europe. Both the footage and the photo show students studying in their hats. Hasidic Jews wore black hats, albeit not fedoras, and in the later half of the 20th century, non-Hasidic (Lithuanian style) {{lang|he-Latn|yeshiva}} students began to wear black fedoras (or dark blue or gray). Today, many {{lang|he-Latn|yeshiva}} students and Orthodox men wear black fedoras for prayer and many even while walking outside. In recent years,{{When|date=August 2023}} [[Sephardi Jews|Sephardic Jews]]
==See also==
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