The wigs of yesteryear are not the wigs of today. See: the statement-making lace-fronts routinely worn by celebrities like Megan Thee Stallion, Cardi B, and Saweetie. Pokémon-like, the sew-ins, U-part units, and shake-and-go wigs you find at the beauty supply store have evolved into undetectable lace frontals, 360 lace units, and even some surprisingly natural-looking synthetic wigs.
All these advances didn't happen on their own. They come thanks to talented stylists who have been at the forefront of a wig evolution that has forever changed the hair industry. And some of them are the folks behind the units we see on the trendsetting stars mentioned above.
Alonzo Arnold, Kellon Deryck, and Tokyo Stylez are just of the few artists who have had a hand in setting the standard for wigs today. Hairstylists like Tamika Gibson and Kim Kimble have made names for themselves by not only creating flawless, gravity-defying units but also developing products and techniques that help elevate how folks install wigs.
Quite a few of the hairstylists behind your favorite celebrity wigs just so happen to be Black men. Whether they are transforming wigs into technicolor dream units or pushing boundaries with intricately-constructed pieces of work that look more like a sculpture than a wig, these Black men hairstylists are setting the pace and the standard for wig artistry. We highlight five of these hairstylists and learn about how they started their careers.
Tevin Washington
Location: Atlanta
Instagram: @hairassasin
Clients Include: SZA, Ari Lennox, Summer Walker
Wig Speciality: Long, sleek units fit for an IG baddie
Tevin Washington's interest in hairstyling began in high school when he used to binge hair videos from YouTubers like Adrianna Thomas. Eventually, he decided it was time to try the hairstyling techniques he learned from "YouTube University," as he jokingly refers to it on our Zoom call, on his friends. In college, when he started doing his classmates' hair as a side hustle, he decided hairstyling was worth pursuing full time. In 2015, he dropped out and entered cosmetology school.
There, he discovered that a hairstylist can work in a number of capacities: freelancing, working in a salon, working on set — all he had to do was choose his approach. He decided that was set styling. "I could do crazy, out-there things without damaging someone's hair, [which] drew me to doing wigs and wanting to be a set stylist," he shares.
Washington styled SZA's pink ombre hair for the "Kiss Me More” music video
Like many hairstylists who work with extensions, Washington's entry into the field began with sew-ins. But as wigs became more popular, he started to experiment with them more often. He dipped into the category working with lace closures, hairpieces that are placed at the hairline, typically 4x4 or 5x5 inches in size for ample parting space or affixed across and towards the crown. Then frontals, which cover the entire perimeter of the hairline, started to become the rage. He did his first lace frontal install in 2012, which he admits was "horrible." He didn't touch another one until 2015, after persistent requests from his friends.
With practice, his wig installation skills improved, eventually landing him a gig at Atlanta-based salon Snobb Life in 2018 where he still works now. He credits his time at the salon as a major turning point for his growth as a stylist. Though he's able to execute a wide range of styles for his clients, his personal favorite hairstyles are either bone straight or crimped curls on wigs with middle parts. In other words, if you're looking for a wig that would be fit for an IG baddie, that's Washington's lane. He often works with long, sleek units that put the I in inches and polishes them off with expertly swooped and looped baby hairs.
His skill has won him the devotion of his celebrity clients like SZA, Ari Lennox, and Summer Walker. It's with them that he's been able to showcase a wider range of work, which includes curlier textures and even custom-colored wigs in all shades of the rainbow. You might recognize some of his work: He did the crimped pink ombre unit that SZA wore in the "Kiss Me More" music video and even created a reverse ombré wig in a similar pink shade for the "Weekend" singer in March 2021.
His one piece of advice: don't quit. When he first left hair school, Washington felt like he wasn't progressing in the same way as his peers, but he realized comparing himself to others would halt his growth. Instead, he continued on his own path to become the hairstylist we celebrate today.
Tym Wallace
Location: Los Angeles
Instagram: @tymwallacehair
Clients Include: Mary J Blige, Brandy, Michaela Jae Rodriguez, Taraji P Henson
Wig Speciality: Units full of waves, curls, and kinks without a baby hair in sight
Throughout his expansive 17-year career, Tym Wallace has styled the hair of beauties like Mary J. Blige, Brandy, and Taraji P. Henson. The Chicago-bred stylist initially thought he was going to become a background singer. After graduating high school, he didn't really know what he wanted to do and didn't feel like college was the path for him. Though he had a slight interest in hair, it wasn't something he thought of pursuing professionally. But in 2004, a year after he graduated, his parents pushed him to attend beauty school because they wanted him to take that hobby to the next level.
On his first day of school, he realized hairstyling was his calling. "I felt God just tell me this is what I have you here to do," he shares. "It's been magic ever since." It wasn't entirely smooth sailing — he took every course twice before graduating from cosmetology school. After completing school, he decided to study fashion and take a few other classes while he figured out a way to make a living. During that time, he spent some nights sleeping in cars and on couches.
Eventually, he landed a gig working with Nene Leakes and later on the show Love and Hip Hop in 2011. His styling stint on the reality TV show got him the chance to work with R&B singer Brandy in 2013. She introduced him to the world of extravagant lace wigs with a $10,000 handmade, custom lace unit. It wasn't Wallace's first time to the wig rodeo — he initially started working with pieces called sheitels made for orthodox Jewish women. But it was, however, his first time working with a wig of that quality and caliber, which made him extremely nervous. "Had I [initially] known how much the wig cost, I probably wouldn't have touched it," he says. Working with those customized wigs eventually gave him the necessary experience and knowledge to handle other types of units. "They taught me how to deal with manufactured wigs because the lace is so thin [and] so delicate," he shares.
Since then, Wallace has been a major force in the celebrity hairstyling world, whether he's getting Henson ready for a red carpet event or styling Michaela Jae Rodriguez in a middle-part wig with stunning waves for a magazine cover. He knows what it takes to slay a wig, but his approach is a little different than what you may traditionally see — Wallace doesn't style baby hairs on any of the lace frontals he installs. The skillful coiffure is big on making sure the hairlines he creates look natural, so he keeps the swoops to a minimum. He also works a lot with curly and kinky units in addition to straight and wavy textures.
An example of Wallace's versatility: If you tuned into the 2021 BET Awards, you may have noticed that Henson showed out in not one but seven different wigs, including a big kinky-curly wig and a blonde-highlighted mullet that was an ode to Tina Turner's signature '80s style. Each was installed by Wallace and his team. He says he drew from his love of 1970s style in order to create those looks, getting inspired by icons like Diana Ross, Farrah Fawcett, and Donna Summer. "I want [hair] to just look effortless. I love just underdone and I-just-woke-up-this-way [hair]," he says.
What started out as two parents wanting their child to go to school led to Wallace's two-decades-long hairstyling career — and he's more than happy with how it has all panned out. "I feel like at this point in my life God has you where he wants you to be. So the clients that are for me [and] the clients that reflect my energy [and] my spirit are the clients that I have."
Kahh Spence
Location: Los Angeles
Instagram: @kahhspence
Clients Include: Jhene Aiko, Kehlani, Ella Mai
Wig Speciality: Wigs that define "no lace" with minimalist baby hairs
Hairstyling is in Kahh Spence's blood. His father was a barber, and he often tagged along with his mother to the salon in Brooklyn where he grew up. But despite the familial influence, he initially thought he was going to pursue a career in music, something he studied from a young age.
But don't get it twisted — even with his dreams of becoming a performer, Spence was still doing hair as a side gig for friends and other girls in the neighborhood with his mother's help. She would braid the girls' hair and then they would go to him for a sew-in install. As he studied music in college, he continued styling hair as a side hustle. It soon became more than just a side gig. He realized that that hairstyling was actually his calling. In 2015, he dropped out of college and went to cosmetology school to get his license.
Spence's obvious talents have granted him opportunities to work with celebrities like Victoria Monet, Kehlani, and Kelly Rowland. He's known for installing incredible wigs with natural-looking baby hairs and not a hint of lace in sight. In addition to the sleek, middle-part styles with bumped ends and long curly looks, he often styles artful slicked-back updos, including the brown-to-caramel ombré braided ponytail he did on Victoria Monet in August 2021. "I've done wig work that you wouldn't even know it's a wig until you're literally zooming in on the photos or you're up close in person," he shares.
Much of Spence's work draws inspiration from decades past. In fact, he often polls his Instagram followers for their opinions on iconic retro hairstyles, especially from the '90s and 2000s. Some of these polls have even led to tutorials showcasing how to create the look.
Hairstyling is his thing, but in 2019, Spence decided to diversify his profile and ventured into the beauty business space with the launch of his unisex fragrance line under the Kahh Spence Beauty brand. He chose to start with fragrance instead of hair-care because he wanted to do something different. Spence says the decision was inspired by Rihanna because "she ventured outside of the box" when she started Fenty Beauty. Though he's launched with fragrance, he says there's definitely more in store for his brand. He's "ready to tackle the door down" and continue to push boundaries in the industry.
Kendall Dorsey
Location: Los Angeles/New York
Instagram: @kendalldorsey1
Clients Include: Kelly Rowland, Solange, Yara Shahidi
Wig Speciality: Textured wigs that employ the right amount of frizz
At 16, Kendall Dorsey began styling hair, practicing mostly French rolls and roller sets on his friends and family. In college, he continued to style hair for his dormmates and started working as a shampoo assistant at a salon. It was then that he knew hairstyling would be more than just a hobby for him.
After graduation, he moved to New York City to apprentice for a year before returning to Philadelphia in 2004 to work at a salon for two more years. In 2006, he enrolled in beauty school to receive more formal training and his license while keeping his salon job.
2014 saw the beginnings of the wig boom, and at the time, Dorsey began working with more units at the salon. "You can have any hairline, any texture, [and] any density [with wigs]," he shares with Allure. "I think that's when I fell in love with [wigs] when I just understood that you can protect your hair and just build any look for it."
In 2017, he got his first celebrity client, Teyana Taylor, through a chance meeting on a job where he was assisting another stylist. He caught her eye and a few days later he got the chance to work with the star. Dorsey even gave the Harlem-raised performer her choppy pixie cut. The celebrity clientele quickly began flowing in with folks like Yara Shahidi, Solange, and Kelly Rowland reaching out for his services.
You probably already recognize Dorsey's work — he did all the hair for the visual components of Solange's When I Get Home album in 2019. He calls the singer a visionary and "true creative," crediting her with pushing his work forward, teaching him about different textures, mastering the hairline, and "how to elevate my [styling] with wigs. She just understands what it means to be a superstar," he says.
For the album, Solange released a few music videos that showcased multiple gorgeous styles with textured hair. There were units full of springy curls and long, waist-length waves that Solange shook as she danced and twirled in the videos. Of course, we can't forget the super-long, wavy unit she wore in the "Way to the Show" music video. It was practically the length of a wedding veil, gloriously frizzy, and ethereal.
You can see that same love for curls, kinks, and waves in a lot of Dorsey's work. He doesn't add too many baby hairs to his units, but that doesn't mean he isn't skilled at styling them. In fact, he's got something of a magic touch and a creative genius when it comes to edges, as evidenced by the tiny braided loops he did for Yara Shadidi in March 2021.
"One of the [best] parts of this industry is that you can create space for yourself [with] whatever areas it is that you do," he shares. "And I found myself defining my [aesthetic] in those spaces with tousled, textured, [and] lived-in hair."
JStay Ready
Location: Los Angeles
Instagram: @jstayready
Clients Include: Doja Cat, Karol G
Wig Speciality: Experimental units that define gravity or incorporate edgy hair cuts in all shades of the rainborws
Jared Henderson, also known as JStay Ready, did not expect to become a hairstylist when he first entered college to study speech. He experimented with hairstyling growing up, playing in his sister's hair and working on theater sets in high school whenever he could. He didn't think hairstyling was a viable way to pay bills. But once he started doing it on the side and saw the dollars it brought in for him, he changed his perspective and decided he pursue it full time.
His entry into the wig world began with the desire to help a friend who had been diagnosed with cancer while they both were in college. She was experiencing hair loss after undergoing chemotherapy treatments, so he searched YouTube for wig-making how-tos. At the time, the materials he was able to get at the beauty supply shop weren't as advanced as they are now, but he challenged himself to create the most realistic-looking units. From there, he continued making wigs and started posting his creations on Instagram, which gained him a following and attention from celebrities.
Henderson would have never guessed that uploading pictures and videos of his customized wigs on social media would lead him to landing work with reality TV stars like Porsha Williams and Rasheeda while still in college. In 2013, during his senior year in college, he says some cast members of shows like Married to Medicine, Love and Hip Hop, and Real Housewives of Atlanta contacted him on Instagram. On the weekend, he and a friend would drive six hours from Jackson State University so he could work with these TV personalities.
His skills in wiggatry got so good in that space of time, he decided to focus on selling wigs rather than installing them. This business eventually made him enough money to move to Los Angeles. After he established himself in the city, a friend of a friend reached out about a celebrity who needed a touch-up on her wig. She just so happened to be rapper Saweetie. This fateful meeting opened the door to a number of other high-profile celebs like Cardi B, Normani, and Doja Cat.
Henderson says that his work with Doja Cat, in particular, has "pushed my aesthetic and my hairstyling skills and limits to the max, way further than I would have even thought [possible]." Prior to working with her, he defined himself as a traditional "glam" hairstylist that did conventionally "pretty" hairstyles (like a slicked-back ponytail and voluminous curls). But with Doja Cat, he has had to learn to lean out of his comfort zone for edgy mullets and sculptural, gravity-defying works of hair art.
For her "You Right" music video, he shaped her hair into the Libra symbol, which is one of his favorite looks to date. For Halloween, he helped transform her into the Rugrats Cynthia doll with bleach blonde pieces of hair that looked like the windmills of a fan. "Doja is the client that I always wanted but never knew that I actually needed," he shares.
"Anything that I put my energy and effort [in]when I do it I'm like I want to be the best. Reality TV was amazing, but I knew it wasn't the best," he says. "I wanted my work to not just be seen in that light. I wanted my work to be on [red] carpets, I wanted to work for people that were attending the Grammys, the Oscars, or the Emmys." And he achieved just that.
Read more stories about wigs:
- These Wigs Installs Are Some of the Best We Have Seen
- Wig Stylists Are Inverting the Ombré
- The 17 Most Iconic Wigs Cardi B Has Ever Worn
Now watch Normani breaking down her iconic choreography:
