In five minutes’ time, you can order a coffee, check your email, politely glance at the other café-goers, receive said coffee, and return to where you left your unlocked bike, which was stolen four minutes ago. Shouldn’t have asked for that extra shot. But hindsight is 20/20, and now your prized bicycle is listed on a neighboring city’s Craigslist for pennies of what you paid.
The FBI reported 125,136 bike thefts in 2019 (the most recent year for which it has full data), although the actual number is likely higher because most property crimes go unreported, according to a Pew Research analysis of 2022 numbers from the FBI and Bureau of Justice Statistics. A study by 529 Garage found that less than 5 percent of stolen bikes make it back to their owners, which means yours is probably gone for good.
The good news is that since bike thieves are criminals of opportunity, you can decrease your risk by locking up more intelligently than the next cyclist. Check out our reviews of the best bike locks below, and keep reading for more information on various lock types and how to use them best.
The Best Bike Locks
- Best U-Lock: Kryptonite New-U New York
- Best Value U-Lock: Abus Ultra 410
- Best Folding Lock: Altor Apex
- Best Chain Lock: OnGuard 8020 Mastiff
- Best Lightweight Lock: Ottolock Cinch Combination Lock
Why Trust Us?
Bicycling has been testing bikes, accessories, and more since 1961, a lot longer than anyone else in the biz. We’re constantly evaluating the latest tech, both as a team and as individuals; even when we don’t acquire gear strictly for work, we’re giving it all a proper torture test. We’re cyclists, too, and we depend on quality gear, especially when it’s keeping our bikes from becoming someone else’s—that’s why it’s easiest for us to simply let you know what has worked best for us, regardless of how much noise a shiny new product is making.
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How We Evaluated
Every lock here has been thoroughly evaluated and vetted by our team of test editors. For those we got hands on, we used these locks, weighed them, and scanned their mechanisms for weak points. We even cut a few with power tools in individual tests, including the Kryptonite New-U New York, the Hiplok DX, and the OnGuard Mastiff.
The rest of the locks haven’t gotten a proper cut test (yet), but we’ve used them both in formal testing and as our personal locks, all without any glaring frustrations. Additionally, we researched testing and picking conducted by outlets like Wirecutter and Bike Radar, as well as experts like LockPickingLawyer, to identify the effectiveness of each lock type against hypothetical assailants.
Check out these options for securing your bike and shackling down some peace of mind. And scroll all the way down to read more info on features and aspects to consider when buying your own bike lock, a breakdown of the different types of locking mechanisms, and more.
Our Full Reviews of U-Locks
All you need to know about the Kryptonite New-U New York Lock is in the fine print: The company will replace your bike (up to $4,000) if it’s stolen because the lock was compromised in New York, where thousands of bikes are stolen each year. This U-lock has a 16mm hardened steel shackle and uses a pass-through crossbar design to prevent twisting attacks, forcing thieves to cut the shackle twice to compromise the lock. From our experience, the 4-pound lock works great as a mallet, too.
The included mounting bracket uses a nylon strap to affix to the frame rather than going through the bottle bosses, a design that increases your options for mounting positions. However, the design relies on friction to keep the lock in place, so user reviews are mixed on whether it works long-term. One crafty Amazon reviewer used their own hardware to screw the mount to the bottle bosses, which might prove sturdier than the friction mount.
The Abus Ultra is a great entry-level U-lock that works in various situations. It’s a bit longer than the typical U-lock, so it can be easier to fasten when a mini lock might not work. The inclusion of a cable makes this package even more appealing, as you can easily and quickly secure the wheels as well as the frame. (You could even use it to lock up two bikes in a pinch if your friend forgot their lock at home.) However, we wouldn’t recommend it for long-term or overnight parking.
Urban cyclists have been stuffing mini U-locks into back pockets and beneath belts for years, which works fine but isn’t too comfortable. So Hiplok reimagined the U-lock with a crucial addition: a clip. With it, the lock slides onto your waistband and isn’t annoying to ride with, so long as you have a tight enough waistband.
The rest of the lock is formidable, with a 14mm shackle that locks on both sides of the crossbar. In our test, the shackle defeated the blade on our hacksaw rather quickly but fell victim to a 5-inch cordless angle grinder in about 30 seconds—an average time for cutting a hardened-steel shackle. And thieves will need two cuts to defeat this lock.
Our Full Reviews of Chain Locks
The Mastiff is an absolute brute of a lock, heavier than most cyclists want to carry (although we didn’t mind schlepping it around on an e-bike). The 3.5-foot-long chain has 10mm-thick, titanium-reinforced steel links that are hexagonally shaped to make cutting difficult.
The company’s tough Boxer U-lock secures the chain at each end. A nylon sheath keeps the chain from scratching your frame. For an extra $15, you can purchase the anti-theft protection program, which covers your bike (assuming you’ve locked it up properly) for three years.
The Hiplok Gold is designed for you to wear it. Rather than locking to your waist—a potentially dangerous move if you crash—the chain has a patented nylon clip and hook-and-loop waist adjuster to close around your torso. It also features a burly 10mm-thick, hardened-steel chain and a 12mm hardened-steel shackle that’s encased in a nylon shell. The sleeve surrounding the chain is removable and washable, and its reflective coating increases your visibility at night.
In testing, we confirmed that the adjustable belt doesn’t fit riders with waists narrower than about 30 inches (Hiplok notes this on its website). And even riders with 32-inch waists might experience slippage. Our main tester has a 34-inch waist, and although the belt cinched tight enough, the heavy chain became uncomfortable after an hour in the saddle. For shorter commutes, though, we loved its convenience and high security.
Our Full Reviews of Folding Locks
Altor’s Apex is an elegant device with a premium feel to match its price. At 2.4 pounds, it’s among the lighter folding locks. Its bottle mount held up; in testing, the Apex stayed put and didn’t rattle as we pedaled. Unfolded, it’s just big enough to secure your frame and front or rear wheel.
Its hardened-steel construction should be formidable against hand tools; reviewers at Wirecutter were able to drill through the hinges of the previous version, the 560G. But the Apex has hardened-steel joint caps to protect the rivets from drilling attacks.
The Hendrix is one of the smallest non-cable locks you’ll find, and RockyMounts includes a holder that mounts on your frame’s bottle bosses for easy portaging. The 5mm steel links present a challenge for cutting tools, and hardened pins aim to resist power drills.
Still, we wouldn’t consider this a high-security lock (RockyMounts rates it a 7 out of 10 on its own security scale). But if you’re looking for a medium-security option to fit in a jersey pocket, the Hendrix might be the best pick.
Our Full Reviews of Lightweight Locks
The Ottolock Cinch offers solid security for quick trips into the store (the company indicates it’s not for long lockups or high-risk areas). The 0.5-pound lock has a band made of Kevlar and steel to prevent cuts, and the whole thing coils up to a 3-inch-diameter package that stows away beneath your saddle rails.
Although not a replacement for a traditional U-lock, it’s smaller and more durable than a cable, making it a convenient upgrade. And the company sells a mount for your frame or seatpost for an additional $25.
If you use a U-lock as your primary security, adding a cable to your setup is a lightweight solution for quickly locking both wheels and your frame. The downside of cables is that they’re little more than deterrents and can be surprisingly easy to cut. Still, this is a relatively cheap way of keeping someone from simply walking away with one of your wheels while you’re running a quick errand. It comes in four sizes, the longest of which is 30 feet, while its standard 7-foot length is great for locking up a saddle, rear wheel, and frame.
Like the other locks in this category, we wouldn’t recommend the Z Lok as your bike’s only form of security for any high-risk environments unless you can maintain a line of sight, as you might when stopping for coffee. It does complement a more robust system of locks perfectly, especially if you want to secure your helmet (through the vents, not the chin strap!).
This lock is small enough to tuck away in a jersey pocket, which makes it ideal for long rides when you’re planning a gas station or pastry shop stop. It won’t make much of a difference if someone comes along with tin snips, which could foil this lock near-instantly, but it will make it abundantly clear to you and any other witnesses that the person fiddling with your bike is stealing it. In some environments, that’s an effective deterrent all on its own.
The Four Types of Locks
A thief with the right tools can defeat any bike lock in five minutes, but that doesn’t mean all locks are the same. The crook will raise hell cutting through a hardened-steel U-lock or chain with an angle grinder, so they’re more likely to go after a cheaper, lightweight cable lock with a set of bolt cutters. To decide how much security you need, consider your location and duration of lockup.
All-day lockups on college campuses and in major metro areas where thefts are common require more security, says Kryptonite brand manager Daryl Slater. Anything left out overnight necessitates paranoia-level countermeasures—using multiple locks that the same bolt cutters can’t defeat is a good start. Here’s how the basic lock types differ in order of most to least secure.
Types of Lock Bodies/Mechanisms
Bike lock manufacturers use a few popular mechanisms with varying levels of security. Lock-picking is an acquired skill, and anecdotal evidence indicates that destructive attacks are much more common. Likewise, an expert with the right tools can get through any bike lock pretty quickly—see LockPickingLawyer or Bosnianbill for a master class in advanced bike lock-picking.
Thankfully, most thieves aren’t expert locksmiths with custom tools, but amateurs can still foil a couple of prominent lock designs with fairly basic attacks. We consulted a lock-picking expert, Schuyler Towne, to break down the prominent locking mechanisms in order of most to least secure. Below are his descriptions of the four most prominent lock body designs.
Using Your Lock
Once you’ve bought a lock, you must put it to work. “Make sure you lock according to value,” Slater says. “The frame (being most expensive), the rear wheel, then the front wheel.”
Unlocked frames and wheels will likely be stolen eventually, so your best bet is to lock both wheels to the frame with a chain or cable lock (or another U-lock, in high-risk areas). Aim for well-lit places and never leave a lock against the ground, as thieves might get the necessary leverage to pry it open.
Ensure your bike can’t be lifted over a pole or tree. Slater says he’s encountered victims whose bikes were locked to street signs, over which a bike can easily be hoisted, or small trees, which were promptly cut down. Generally, the thing you’re locking to should be more robust than your lock. Lastly, take down your bike’s serial number (under the bottom bracket) and register it with your local police department in case the worst happens.
Recovering a Stolen Bike
Having a bike stolen is the worst, and unfortunately, there isn’t much help available to victims of bike theft. If you’re tapped into your local cycling community, putting the word out on social media can often be your best bet for recovering your stolen bike.
At least it was, until portable trackers like Apple’s AirTag were introduced. They’re far from perfect because they need to be near someone with an updated iPhone to give you a location, so they likely won’t work for riders in rural places.
If you live in a more densely populated area with many iPhone users, an AirTag and a compatible bike mount could significantly increase your chances of recovering a stolen bike.
Adam Schram is an Assistant Editor of Commerce at Runner's World, though you might see his byline on Bicycling and Popular Mechanics, too. A lover of all things outdoors, Adam's writing career comes after six years as a bike mechanic in his hometown of State College, PA. His journalism experience is steeped in cycling and running gear reviews, and he's also a published creative nonfiction and satire author. When he's not writing, riding, or running, you can catch Adam at home mixing cocktails, watching Star Wars, or trying in vain to do the Sunday crossword. You can check out his latest work below.
Kevin Cortez is an editor for Runner's World, Bicycling, and Popular Mechanics covering reviews. A culture and product journalist for over ten years, he’s an expert in men’s style, technology, gaming, coffee, e-bikes, hiking, gear, and all things outdoors. He most recently worked as the Style Editor for Reviewed, a top product recommendation site owned by USA TODAY. He also helped with the launch of WSJ's Buy Side commerce vertical, and has covered the music and podcast industries for Mass Appeal, Genius, Vulture, Leafly, Input, and The A.V. Club. Equally passionate about leisure as he is his penmanship, Kevin dedicates his spare time to graphic novels, birding, making cold brew, and taking long, meandering walks.