Review: Fondazione Querini Stampalia

Zoom out. What’s this place all about?
Part 19th-century house museum, part contemporary exhibition space, part architecture nerd's dream garden, Fondazione Querini Stampalia is a microcosm of everything fascinating about Venice.

The permanent collection: What are we talking about here?
The collection spans centuries and defies categorization: Renaissance paintings by the likes of Bellini and Tiepolo are displayed next to antique instruments, gilded French porcelain is laid out carefully on lace-trimmed tablecloths, and perfectly fluffed pillows sit on gleaming Louis XVI chairs. The garden, designed by the architect Carlo Scarpa in the 1960s, is a maze of geometric fountains and a serene lawn. The elegant library, which is open to the public (Tuesday to Saturdays), is a bit of a local secret, with quiet workspaces and an impressive artistic display of its own.

What about the exhibits? What tends to come through?
The foundation presents a rotating program of contemporary art exhibitions, with past shows dedicated to Kiki Smith, Marisa Merz, Jimmie Durham, and others, as well as dance programming, poetry readings, and panel discussions on topics like architecture.

What did you make of the crowd?
You'll never find this place packed with tour groups. It's a quiet, meditative respite from the nearby San Marco madness. Lots of people come just to see the Scarpa garden; others come because they're interested in the Renaissance paintings or historic furnishings.

On the practical tip, how were the facilities?
The place isn't enormous, so getting around is relatively easy, although there are a few tight corners and it's on multiple levels. There are benches in the atrium.

Any guided tours worth trying?
You can book guided tours in advance; otherwise, pick up a printed information booklet (in every room).

Gift shop: obligatory, inspiring—or skip it?
The bookshop is sleek and contemporary; it also stocks decor designed by the architect.

Is the café worth a stop, or should we just plan on going elsewhere?
There's a small coffee bar overlooking the garden, but it's pretty basic: good for a quick caffeine jolt, otherwise skippable.

Any advice for the time- or attention-challenged?
If 19th-century furnishings aren't your jam, take a few minutes to check out the garden.