Review: Pinault Collection

Zoom out. What’s this place all about?
The contemporary art collection of French billionaire Francois Pinault is split between two Venetian venues: Palazzo Grassi, near the Accademia bridge, and Punta Della Dogana, the former customs house at the tip of Dorsoduro. Both are pretty spectacular, and they present a rotating program of blockbuster exhibitions by the likes of Damien Hirst, Luc Tuymans, Urs Fischer, and more.

The permanent collection: What are we talking about here?
Nothing is permanent; exhibitions rotate at least once a year (at both venues). The shows at Palazzo Grassi tend to focus on a single living artist, giving them full reign of multiple floors as well as the massive central atrium. During the 2019 Biennale, Luc Tuymans installed a site-specific mosaic on the ground floor. Across the canal, Punta Della Dogana usually goes wider, with thematic shows featuring work by multiple artists.

What did you make of the crowd?
The place has an upscale, rarified vibe, so it doesn't attract hordes of people or masses of schoolchildren who don't really want to be there. It's mostly serious art lovers who are here to gawk at the latest acquisitions or get that Louise Bourgeois up on their Instagram Story.

On the practical tip, how easy to get around were the facilities?
Both venues have multiple levels, but there are elevators throughout and both buildings are fully accessible. Seating is mostly limited to the entryways.

Any guided tours worth trying?
There are free, in-depth, twice-daily talks on specific exhibitions (Saturdays, Sundays, and Mondays). Guided tours should be booked in advance online.

Gift shop: obligatory, inspiring—or skip it?
There's a sleek, design-y bookshop at each venue, with an excellent selection of coffee table and desktop merch, posters, and editioned artworks.

Is the café worth a stop, or should we just plan on going elsewhere?
The Palazzo Grassi bistro is a sit-down spot on the Grand Canal serving Venetian-ish fare like nettle gnocchi and bigoli al ragu. At Dogana, it's a more casual situation, where you can stop for a coffee or a glass of wine.

Any advice for the time- or attention-challenged?
If you're into the idea of going deep on one artist in a renovated palazzo, do Grassi. If you want to get a sense of the contemporary art landscape in a raw, massive warehouse-like space, do Dogana. An hour might be pushing it, but you could probably get through a full exhibition in 90 minutes.