Review: Darjeeling Express

Tell us about your first impressions when you arrived. Darjeeling Express started out as a 12-seat Indian supper club where one-time lawyer Asma Khan found her sea legs as a chef. Now, after a stint as a pop-up, Khan has settled in Soho, in airy top-floor premises in the restaurant-filled Kingly Court. The vibe is stylish but homey, with jungly plants, brass-topped tables, and geometric tiles in the same shade of cerulean blue as the restaurant’s namesake train. Khan is in her element, greeting guests and handing out chai, while her all-women team cooks up a storm in the busy, semi-open kitchen.

What was the crowd like?     Word has spread about the restaurant, especially since Khan was tapped to appear on the Netflix series "Chef’s Table." Everyone receives the same welcome, from families to solo diners (and, on a recent visit, two Hollywood A-listers, snacking on channa chat).

What's on the drink menu?     There’s a concise wine list and handful of craft beers, but it’s hard to resist the cocktails. Vodka martinis come with a kick of green chilli, while the elegant Old Fashioned has a hint of Darjeeling tea. Soft drinks run from basil-laced sharbat to bottles of Thums Up: India’s smoky, supercharged answer to Coca-Cola.

Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss.     The one-page menu recreates Khan's childhood favorites, from her family’s Mughlai recipes to Kolkata’s vibrant street-food snacks. Her hand-picked chefs have no formal training, but there’s serious talent at work; from puffed-up puri to spiced mutton kebabs, every dish delivers. Start with garlicky Tangra prawns (they’re a fixture on the menu for a reason), then take your pick of the curries, from creamy, chilli-spiked paneer to tender, slow-simmered goat. Finish with an aromatic masala chai or savor the caramelized carrot halwa.

And how did the front-of-house folks treat you?     Even in the evening rush, service is relaxed but attentive. Servers deliver sound advice if you're wavering between dishes, and will package up any leftovers if you’ve over ordered.

Who should we bring with us?     Hit the cocktail list and flirt over small plates on a date or come with a group of friends. Either way, there’s a warmth here that’s hard to resist—not always a given in Soho.