Review: Manteca

What were your first impressions when you arrived?

Against the backdrop of street-art splattered Shoreditch, the minimal greige exterior of Manteca is positively demure, giving nothing away of the delights to come. But once through the door, you’re hit with the full-frontal buzz of one of London’s hottest Italian dining destinations. Even on a Monday night, the two floors were totally full, tables packed closely together with volume high and energy levels even higher. After years of residencies, Chris Leach’s pasta and charcuterie prowess has found a permanent home and it’s now one of the most exciting menus in the city.

What’s the crowd like?

This is a clued-in crowd on a search for deliciousness. It’s primarily rows of tables for two and even on a Monday it’s dates a-go-go. Men in suits attempting to impress with bottles of £100 red wine, fathers and daughters having heated catch ups, friends cackling over charcuterie, Italian couples slurping mussels. It’s the more grown-up side of Shoreditch and the food-loving crowd reflects that.

What should we be drinking?

The cocktail list is short and sweet with a couple of fruity spritzes and some twists on the classics (the Cynar mezcal negroni was a smokey delight), but really, it’s all about the wine here, with an extensive list for oenophiles to get stuck into separated into ‘classics’ and ‘down the rabbit hole’. There’s also a page of wines by the glass starting at a reasonable £5.50, including some more interesting skin contact numbers. We were tempted by a Italian ciliegiolo called ‘bad girls go everywhere’ but opted for a lighter Spanish Grenache which was a perfect accompaniment to our grilled fish main.

Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss.

Although it is possible to have a vegetarian meal, Manteca is really all about the meat. This is a nose-to-tail establishment with their own in-house butchery and salumeria, a room full of hanging homemade goodies which use up all parts of the animal. This is proudly displayed as you go down the stairs, (not one for the vegans) and is sliced to order at the bar in the center of the restaurant. And what to order? Well, every dish we tried was a hit. Ease yourself in with wild-farmed focaccia with rosemary and a plate of melt-in-the-mouth house charcuterie. Then it’s on to small plates of pork and beef meatballs, melon and prosciutto crudo and ‘nduja steamed mussels, with some homemade ricotta and courgettes and a herby pea salad to lighten things up just in time for the pasta course. All the pasta is homemade, of course, and is springy and oh so fresh. Go for the spicy lumache shells with their take on a tomato vodka sauce and the slurpy fazzoletti with rich duck ragu and crunchy duck fat breadcrumbs. If you still have space, that’s when the grill gets fired up: wood-roasted plaice, pork chops, and duck with cherries. It’s all so good that you’re going to definitely over-order and need a taxi home.

And how did the front-of-house folks treat you?

For a packed Monday night, the waiting staff were on top form. They sashayed in and out of the tight tables providing recommendations and explanations, checking in and generally being attentive without being annoying. As we deliberated over wines, they happily brought us tasters and gave us a box to take home leftovers without batting an eye.

What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here?

This is the perfect place to take someone who appreciates great meat and pasta cookery, be that dates or mates. It’s hearty, comforting and delicious food – and it can make a Monday night feel just as indulgent as a weekend.