Review: Kisser

What were your first impressions when you arrived?

As you are turning into the Highland Yards development in East Nashville midday, you’ll see the line for Kisser before you see the restaurant itself. By the time you make it to the door you’ll see a minimalist eatery with communal farmhouse tables, shared counters and an open kitchen. Blond wood is offset by blue tile work, and, as is the case in many East Nashville restaurants, a turntable provides a vinyl sound system.

What’s the crowd like?

While chef-owners Leina Horii and Brian Lea have made the most of their small space, diners don’t feel cramped. Instead the mood is jovial and communal at its best. People are happy to have a seat and be sharing this food together, talking about their midday luck and sharing notes on their favorite dishes. The crowd tends to be filled with Nashville hospitality notables. Because Kisser is only open for lunch, other restaurant workers can dine here before heading to their own dinner service.

What should we be drinking?

The reason to come to Kisser is the food (from the presentation to the taste to the enthusiasm) but no need to be parched while there. Choose from a small menu of beers, including a rice ale, sakes and wines by the glass that make sense with the Japanese cuisine. Those who prefer non-alcoholic options will appreciate the selection of local High Garden teas.

Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss.

Kisser, which is described as an “homage to the Japanese kissaten” has a relatively small menu. The restaurant was born out of Chef Leina Horii and Chef Brian Lea’s popular pandemic pop-up. While they might have more dishes than those early days, the structure is a few small plates, including inari and onigiri. Bigger plates feature udon, a ramen carbonara, salads and a chicken katsu sandwich that is one of Horii’s specialties. Sharing small plates with your dining companions means the opportunity to try more dishes. Save room for the miso crème brulee for dessert. Gluten-free and vegetarian dishes are clearly marked.

And how did the front-of-house folks treat you?

Kisser’s kitchen is as efficient as its décor. Because it has limited hours—lunch Thursday – Monday—the crowds of folks hoping to nab one of the seats can be large. As a result, the team knows how to take orders quickly without making diners feel rushed, and give people time to eat and talk, but also turn tables to accommodate the line. The open kitchen allows you to watch the artistry of the team in the back of the house, too.

What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here?

Impress your clients, your boss, your co-workers who you haven’t seen outside a Zoom screen in ages with lunch at this buzzy den of Japanese comfort food.