Review: Empress by Boon

What were your first impressions when you arrived?

To get into the dining room you’ll find a nondescript entrance on San Francisco's Grant Avenue and ride the elevator up to the sixth floor. Once the doors open, it's like entering a private club only you (and your fellow diners) know about. There's a striking curved bar with plenty of seating. Hovering over the chic lounge is a striking 24-foot-diameter carved-wood pergola that was part of the Empress of China, the space's former tenant. The dining room is divided into three areas, and each is sleek and elegant, with pops of red and robin egg blue booths harmonizing with dark wood accents to give it a glammed-up Cantonese supper club vibe. Windows look out onto San Francisco's downtown skyline and Chinatown rooftops.

What’s the crowd like?

Dressed up and sophisticated, the crowd is serious about good food and has come to enjoy the entire experience. Couples, after-work suits, special occasion celebrations, and out-of-towners who've read about Michelin-starred chef Ho Chee Boon's first namesake restaurant.

What should we be drinking?

You can't go wrong with cocktails or wine, and both lists have been expertly curated to pair with the modern Cantonese menu. The cocktail list is fun and curious with some made from Duck Fat washed Knob Creek Rye or the jasmine rice-infused vodka. The list includes some delightful non-alcoholic concoctions too, such as the “Easy Does It” made with dragon fruit, honey, lemon, and orange.

Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss.

Modern Cantonese is how chef Boon sums up his prix-fixe menu of nine courses, mostly served family-style. It changes periodically depending on what’s in season, but you’ll find cult classics like the Iberico ham soup dumplings and roasted crispy chicken are always around. Hint: you can dine a la carte in the bar and lounge, and don't need a reservation. You'll find some of the same items found on prix-fixe menu, and a few other tasty surprises such as steamed vegetarian dim sum and a crispy prawn roll.

And how did the front-of-house folks treat you?

Professional, polite, and efficient. No complaints. But you won't find a lot of witty banter either.

What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here?

This is a splurge kind of place so dress to the nines, get the gals together for a birthday bash, or book a table for two for a Saturday night anniversary celebration.