Review: Saint Bread

What were your first impressions when you arrived?

Perched in an old boatyard on the banks of the Lake Washington Ship Canal at the edge of the University of Washington, the counter-served baked goods, pre-made lunches, and whimsical dinners feel cohesive under the light shining through the stained glass featuring the theoretical figure from which Saint Bread takes its name. All the seating is on the covered, heated, patio, keeping it cozy but rustic.

What’s the crowd like?

Grad school students come to study over Okinawan cinnamon toast or Scandinavian-style cardamom knots while remote workers come from further afield to meet over rice bowls with fermented veggies. But while lunch is quick and casual, dinner draws a crowd that lingers over Japanese-tilted dishes like dashi-poached vegetables and braised short ribs.

What should we be drinking?

The drink menu features a little of everything, with a few wines by the glass, a couple of sake options, ciders, and a half-dozen rotating local craft beers on tap. The beers are the best bet if nothing else matches your mood.

Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss.

The fried egg sandwich with American cheese on melon pan quickly became a staple breakfast sandwich for the neighborhood. But everything in the quirky and collaborative kitchen makes the disparate inspirations come together on the plate by keeping it simple. Big flavors from fishy and fermented foods, be they Spanish boquerones or Japanese umeboshi, snag the spotlight and the impeccable house-baked breads play Oscar-worthy supporting roles.

And how did the front-of-house folks treat you?

The community-driven mission of the restaurant shows in the staff, which radiates sunshine and enthusiasm all day, patiently working through the line and answering questions about the curious crossover cuisine.

What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here?

Fuel up for a day of studying, pause for a coffee during a stroll along the Burke-Gilman Trail, or make it a meeting point for people coming from various parts of town. Central and scenic, it works well for informal meet-ups and quick meals.