There’s no question that Bolivia’s food scene is having a moment, with three restaurants (Phayawi, Ancestral, and Gustu) in Latin America’s 100 Best Restaurants—up from zero in prior years. And that may be thanks, in part, to the fact that the top restaurants in La Paz showcase standout local ingredients, including the country's bountiful wine. In the first half of 2024, Bolivian wines have already earned 40 medals in international competitions such as the Bacchus Awards (Spain), Virtus (Portugal), and the Brussels International Competition (Belgium). Producers like Jardin Oculto, for instance, have bottles prominently featured in several Michelin-starred restaurants outside Bolivia, too, including Central in Lima—one of the top restaurants in the world, according to World's 50 Best.
Bolivian wine making dates back to Spanish colonial times, when the industry was supplying bottles for the Catholic church and then the moneyed mining industry. The flagship Bolivian wine-producing regions of Tarija, Cinti Valley, and Samaipata saw their first vineyards planted in the second half of the 16th century. High altitude wines are their specialty, with Tarija and Samaipata at 1,700 to 2,000 meters above sea level, and the Cinti Valley at 2,200 to 2,400 meters. The unique Andean terroir, alongside the elevation, provides Bolivian winemakers with interesting earth elements to innovate—and a unique product as the result.
Marquez de la Viña, based in the central city of Cochabamba, buys grapes from all around the country. And according to Maria Eugenia Apaza, sommelier at Gustu, the producer’s quintessentially Bolivian “line of wines is one way to taste the variety that Bolivia has to offer.” But if you're an oenophile who wants to experience Bolivian wine country for yourself, grab a car and wind your way through Tarija, the Cinti Valley, or Samaipata, which beckon with lesser-known varietals and ancient vines you might not find elsewhere.
Below, we cover each region, and how to decide which to visit based on your travel and sipping style—but nothing is stopping you from hitting all three.
Tarija
The heart of Bolivian winemaking
A short flight from La Paz, Cochabamba, or Santa Cruz, Tarija is the most developed wine producing region of Bolivia. Kohlberg and Campos de Solana are some of the largest producers in the country, with varieties imported from Argentina, France, and Italy, yet their grapes find new expressions in the Bolivian highlands. Both have been handsomely rewarded in international competitions, including a Virtus Grand Gold award for Kohlberg’s 2022 Vino Cautivo.
Wineries offering lunch with wine pairings is a relatively new addition to the Bolivian wine scene. Magnus and Kohlberg have recently introduced the service, the latter under the direction of Chef Pablo Cassab. Magnus, meanwhile, is a century-old family vineyard that just turned to commercial production 20 years ago with Liz Arancibia de Magnus at the helm. The family heritage is clearly important to her, as part of the tour includes a “walk through time” in the small museum housed in one of the old cellars.
The Granier family, owners of Campos de Solana, also produce singani under the Casa Real brand; post-vineyard, tour the distillery to try the country's most iconic spirit.
Jardin Oculto's boutique winery, run by sisters Maria Jose and Mercedes Granier with enologist Nayan Gowda, has its their production facility in Tarija—though they source grapes from the neighboring Cinti Valley, specifically from ancient vines, some of which are 200 years old and supported by pink peppercorn or fruit trees. Their biodiverse vineyards create unique terroirs that are naturally organic.
A 30-minute drive from the heart of Tarija, Cañón Escondido’s tasting room overlooks a canyon. By special request, a guide can lead you down the paths among the vineyards to the river, culminating in a wine tasting. Be sure to pick up a bottle of their orange which, when chilled, is perfect for a summer picnic.
Beyond the wine in Tarija: When wine tasting leaves you peckish, head to La Casona del Molino, an upscale steak house with an eclectic wine selection. Gattopardo is a café with an international menu on the main square in town. But the true hidden gem is Juan Pablo Gallardo’s puerta cerrada ("closed door") meals in his home, which focus on fresh, local ingredients whose flavors are brought out by his grill and brick oven.
To get your blood pumping, try kayaking and paddle boarding with Casa Blanca del Lago, or head out to the Marquiri Waterfall for a hike. Further afield, the Tajzara Reserve has iconic sand dunes and the traditional village of San Lorenzo’s legendary empanadas—experiences to both can be arranged via travel agency VM Elite.
Where to stay: For a true vineyard feel, stay at La Finca La Magnolia, which is owned by the Sausini winemakers. Aside from their superior service on site, they can organize wine tasting, visits, and tours around the region.
Cinti Valley
Heritage grapes and ancient vines
The Cinti Valley lies between Tarija and Potosí, and it's a two to three-hour drive from each. The main highway was only built a few years ago, and most of the side roads are still unpaved, giving the region a rustic feel. Vineyards and grape growers are nestled away off the main thoroughfare, with abandoned farm houses and ruins interspersed; those who stayed (or returned) are now reviving the Cinti Valley’s winemaking tradition, which dates back centuries.
Many of the wineries in the Cinti Valley are driven by the personalities of their winemakers. The perfect example of this is Weymar Ríos Cavero of Cepas de Fuego. Even though he is in the process of modernizing his production facility, Cavero still takes time to meet visitors and share his passion for Syrah and Tannat, as well as fortified, sweet wine and singani."
Keep an eye out for Vischoqueña, an endemic grape variety which is a cross between Moscatel of Alexandria, an ancient white grape, and Negra Criolla, a late-season red. First promoted as a varietal wine by Bodega Tierra Roja’s Christian Villamor in 2010, the Vischoqueña mantel has since been taken up by Yokich, Cepa de Oro, and Jardín Oculto among others. The grape tends to have fruity aromas with notes of berries and stone fruits, lending itself naturally to fresh reds, rosés, and even Blanc de Noirs. Book lunch at Cepa de Oro to better understand which dishes to pair with Vischoqueña.
In San Francisco de la Horca, visit Vacaflores which specializes in heritage grapes and small batches for flavorful and innovative bottles. The last stop on their tour is at their shop, a block off the main square in Camargo, offering the chance to explore the quaint village’s flowery plazas.
Beyond the wine in Cinti Valley: For a taste of history, head to San Pedro, which claims to be the original singani producer dating back to 1550. You can also visit the historic eponymous village, or go hiking in the surrounding valleys and canyons. Only two kilometers away from the village is Peña Colorada, home to pre-colonial ornate petroglyphs.
Where to stay: The Parador Viña de Pereira, a tasteful bed & breakfast in Villa Abecia is the perfect jumping off point. Owner Ana Gabriela Gómez Arancibia can also arrange lunch or dinner if booked ahead of time. Simple lunch and dinner meals must also be booked ahead at Cepas de mi Abuelo, El Gilgal, and Hacienda Izuma. From the Parador, you can also easily get to the natural pools by the river, so pack your swimsuit.
Samaipata
A weekend getaway from Santa Cruz
A three-hour drive from Santa Cruz, Samaipata is the last wine growing region in Bolivia before you reach the Amazon rainforest. The profile of the historic village is being raised thanks to some important enological and culinary contributions. Luis Guzmán from Wine Explorers particularly appreciates the region’s white wines, like the Pedro Ximenez, Torrontés, and Sauvignon Blanc varietals.
Established in 2007, Vinos 1750 is the oldest winery of the easternmost region. They just earned a Grand Gold Bacchus award for their 2019 cabernet sauvignon. Their informal eatery also offers pizzas, charcuterie, and cheese boards. A newer winery, Landsuá, focuses on natural wines, and are one of the few Bolivian wineries with an à la carte restaurant (great wine pairings are a given here).
Rural haute cuisine takes center stage at Casa Charo, which is competing with La Paz’s top restaurants. Chef Sofia Nogales’ carefully planned tasting menu focuses on fresh, seasonal ingredients from the nearby valleys. The pairings highlight the breadth of Bolivian’s wines and spirits. Much like everything else in Samaipata, they only operate from Thursday to Sunday.
Beyond the wine in Samaipata: If a walk around the historic town isn’t enough exercise for you, consider heading out to the Bosque de los Helechos Gigantes (the giant fern forest) or going for a hike at the Codo de los Andes. VM Elite can arrange transport in conjunction with your wine tours here, too.
Where to stay: Samaipata offers a variety of places to stay from El Pueblito boutique hotel, conveniently located near 1750, to the highly sought after Samaipata Glamping. Alternatively, check out Ipora with its breathtaking views of the Samaipata Fort, built by the Tiahuanaco tribe, pre-dating the Inca establishments in Cuzco.
While modern wine tourism is still a nascent industry in Bolivia, enophiles looking for unique experiences will be rewarded. From endemic grape varietals like the Vischoqueña and wine makers that take time to converse with visitors, not to mention impressive backdrops, exploring Bolivian wine country offers singular opportunities—if you're willing to do a little extra work to get there.
