Bogazkere: It’s a wine grape whose name means “throat twister” for its highly tannic properties, but the first sip (and the next, and the next) of this red sure goes down easy. It's also just one of many surprises that await on a wine trip through Turkey’s Aegean region.
For a country with a viticultural history dating back 7,000 years, Turkey’s wine industry is still somewhat in its infancy. Due to a number of political factors, and because much of it has historically been consumed domestically, Turkish wine never made the same international inroads as France, Italy, or even that relative newcomer, California. In 1923, the year the Turkish Republic was created, alcohol and tobacco sales were governed by a state-run monopoly called Tekel. It wasn’t until 2003, when the sector was privatized, that smaller boutique wineries began to flourish. But a ban on alcohol advertising in 2013, followed by a loss of export markets during COVID-19, dealt a one-two punch to the blossoming Turkish wine industry.
For a wine lover, this is tantalizing juice: hundreds of indigenous varieties, terroir-driven takes on famous international grapes, and up-and-coming producers are just waiting to be discovered. “When we compare 10 years ago to where we are now, there were not many boutique wineries,” says Iklima Odabasi, production manager at USCA Winery in Urla near Izmir. “Maybe 5 years ago, people focused on boutique wineries and their production.” She estimates that ten new wineries were established in 2022 alone, out of approximately 184 total in the country. “Hopefully in ten years, there will be a lot [more] producers,” she says.
For history buffs and nature lovers, wine may seem like a misguided reason to go to a country filled with UNESCO World Heritage sites. Which is why this Aegean wine region, in particular, is a wine trip with an asterisk—there’s so much to see and do in between sips. Pack some delectable dried figs and hit the road for a wine route unlike any other on this Turkey road trip.
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When to go
Like many wine regions, harvest season (fall in the northern hemisphere) is an exciting time to visit. But this route loops from the seaside city of Izmir, heads inland, then back towards oceanfront villages, so if you are craving beach time, summer won’t disappoint.
Day 1
Izmir is the third-largest city in Turkey and one of the largest in the wider Aegean area, with regular flights to and from Istanbul on Turkish Airlines. Catch one of the morning routes, rent a car at the airport, and drive for less than ten minutes to Isabey Bagevi, a third-generation-run winery founded in 1947 that counts Sauvignon Blanc as a specialty. Izmir doesn’t have large diurnal shifts (the temperature difference between night and day) and without cooling periods, grapes can ripen faster and often lose acidity, which means those in Izmir are harvested almost 20 days earlier than the grapes in the inland Denizli province. A 45-minute drive gets you to Nif Vineyards and Winery in Manisa, where international grapes such as Sangiovese, Shiraz, and the German variety Solaris thrive. Take a wine break at Kula Geopark; the volcanic field celebrates its 10th anniversary as a designated UNESCO Heritage site this year, a minor milestone in its history (the first eruption was about 1.1 million years ago). Gape at the majestic fairy chimneys, then walk through the jagged rocky landscape of Volcanic Park. When your long day comes to a close, Yanik Ülke—a winery, restaurant, and your accommodation for the night—is luckily close by. Volcanoes again come into play; the winery compares its volcanic terroir to that of Sicily, so Catarrato and Nerello Mascalese are the wines to drink with dinner at the onsite restaurant, which serves pizza made in a stone oven and dishes made on the al fresco grill.
Day 2
You’ll want to be up and at ‘em for the two-hour drive to KÜP winery in Denizli, an inland province known for its textile industry. Sip on the Besibir Yerde (“No to Violence”) wines which blend international and Turkish varieties, and know that proceeds support educational scholarship programs for girls. Although the winery was established in 1957, get ready for some real ancient history at UNESCO Heritage site Hierapolis, about an hour away. If you’re wondering why so many people are wandering around the ancient city in bikinis and swim trunks, that’s because the site is known for its thermal baths. Even if you're not in the mood for a full soak, roll up your jeans, wade into the shallow pools in the travertine terraces, and let the healing begin. All that wellness may work up an appetite, so head to Garson Sükrü for dinner. It would be easy to fill up on the complimentary crispy carrots with yogurt dip, but save room for the pastrami-topped hummus and mixed-grill skewers, best paired with a full-bodied but surprisingly elegant Ōkūzgōzū and Bogazkere blend from nearby Pamukkale Winery. New hotel construction in the area, such as the Park Dedeman Denizli, leans more business than luxury, but after a meal like that, sleep is all that matters.
Day 3
You won’t mind the three-hour drive to the ancient city of Ephesus, because the opportunity to majorly stretch your legs during a tour of this UNESCO World Heritage Site awaits. Ponder mankind’s eternal quest to understand our world when gazing up at the stories-high library, which, after its construction in the 2nd century C.E., housed over 12,000 scrolls. Ephesus with its well-preserved ruins is a marvel unto itself, but its original claim to fame was as home to the Temple of Artemis, one of the original Seven Wonders of the World. While mostly destroyed, one column still stands proudly.
Once you’ve worked up a thirst, head to the town of Sirinçe, specifically, Hera Wine House. This wine bar and shop offers local wines by the glass, such as Kastro Tireli winery’s Narince, a Turkish white variety that’s a little floral and nutty. Nibble on some tulum cheese (a type that’s often kept in salt water) and charcuterie, then wander through the charming cobblestoned town and its many wine shops. According to Mayan lore, Sirinçe and Bordeaux would be the only two places in the world to survive the apocalypse—coincidence that both are epicenters of wine? The last drive of the day leads to your final destination: 7 Bilgeler winery and Vinifera Vineyards hotel which was founded by a doctor who decided to take up winemaking upon his retirement (if you can call learning oenology a retirement). After settling into your room, grab a table by the stone fireplace in the restaurant and pair a citrus-y, saline-tinged Emir white wine or light-bodied Kalecik Karasi (nicknamed “Turkish Pinot Noir”) with your roasted eggplant.
Day 4
Sleep in for a bit; your next drive is only an hour, and all you’ll need to do is sit on an expansive patio at Lucien Arkas winery overlooking the largest contiguous—and organic—vineyard in Turkey. Both indigenous and international grapes make up the vast offerings, all of which are overseen by Italian winemaker Lorenzo Severino. While the place has the posh, polished feel of an established wine country estate (yes, they do weddings), your next stop, USCA winery, gives off major hipster vibes. Young couples and groups of friends gather around upturned barrels on the stone patio, drinking cuvées that blend international and Turkish grapes, such as Shiraz and Foça Karasi (reminiscent of Grenache). USCA is just one of the boutique producers in the Urla area, and wines from other estates can also be tasted at your final destination, Urla Bagevi, a six-room boutique hotel and restaurant. The light wood tones and sleek angles feel wine-country familiar, as does the farm-to-table twist on traditional Turkish dishes, such as the tender local octopus with red wine sauce. Urla’s Sauvignon Blanc shines with bright acidity, while the red Nexus, a blend of Merlot, Nero d’Avola, and Cabernet Franc is fruity and spicy. It is both complex and enticing, a fitting tribute to your Turkey road trip.
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