San Francisco was the first city in the United States to issue a “shelter in place” order in mid-March, and it’s been a grim time for local businesses since. Many operate on slim margins even in the best of times, and avoiding permanent closure has become incredibly challenging now that public life has all but ground to a halt.
One inspiring and hopeful sign, though: Many owners have remade their operations on the fly in order to keep themselves and their staffs afloat—whether embracing the new world of cocktail delivery, refashioning a restaurant as a general store, or curating book boxes to give us plenty of reading material as we practice social distancing. Here’s how some San Francisco businesses are coping with the coronavirus and how you can help support local business.
Pages for the people
“I didn't want to lose who we are in the pivot to the web shop,” says Kathryn Grantham, owner of Black Bird Bookstore in the Outer Sunset, which launched its online shop two weeks ago. Rather than make every book available for purchase, Grantham curated themed boxes, like “Homeschool” and “Fiction Escape.” She’s been particularly heartened by the response, especially from outside the city. “Customers following us on social media have been avidly shopping from us," she says. "A silver lining during this difficult time.”
Celia Sack, owner of culinary bookshop Omnivore Books, has also had success online; after all, there’s never been a better time for cookbooks. “I think my customers are feeling loyal for two reasons: One is that they trust my curation. The other is that I'm paying my employees their full salaries to stay home. The customers are incredibly supportive of that.”
Pamper yourself a little
Independent Union Street spa Rosewater Skin Care, in business for more than 22 years, replicates its spa experience at home with a “Luxury Facial Survival Kit,” a set of curated skincare products shipped directly to customers. “Everyone deserves a little pampering during this unpredictable storm we are all experiencing,” says owner Heather Gillen.
Pick up and stock up
Plenty of hunkered-down San Franciscans could use a bottle of wine right now, so Gemini Bottle Co. in the Mission moved its entire inventory online, allowing for advance ordering and curbside pickup; but the shop will also help keep your pantry stocked while supporting local farmers at the same time. Gemini partnered with F.E.E.D. Sonoma to sell CSA-style farm boxes, also available for curbside pickup.
Anthony Strong, chef-owner of Prairie in San Francisco, began thinking about his restaurant’s options weeks before the shutdown. Instead of traditional delivery, he set up a “General Store.” Customers can order restaurant hits like Beef Cheek Pappardelle and Sour Cream & Onion Burrata to go, but also basics like dried pasta, eggs, and even jugs of restaurant-grade sanitizer and hand soap. “At times like this, ego should play no part,” Strong says. “This isn’t a cutesy, cheffy boutique. I just wanted to get food to people.” His general store also offers an option to buy a “pantry kit” filled with nonperishable goods for a laid-off industry worker in need.
While plenty of local cafés have closed altogether, unable to figure out a safe move in our social-distancing universe, Helen Russell, co-founder and CEO of Equator Coffee & Teas, has found several ways to keep business alive. While shuttering most of the company's shops, they were able to reopen their Mill Valley store with strict requirements: Online ordering via app, so no payment occurs face-to-face; marked lines on the sidewalk for proper distancing; and customers never enter the café interior. “Revenues are enough to keep some of our staff employed, and our community is happy to have some normalcy of an important ritual,” she says. Meanwhile, Equator's online store offers free shipping, and it has launched two new coffees in partnership with acclaimed chef Dominique Crenn. “We cannot take care of our people unless we take care of our business,” is the company's guiding philosophy, Russell says. “Companies that protect and preserve cash the fastest will be around when we come out the other side of this black swan moment.”
San Francisco restaurants offering local delivery
Some area restaurants already had robust delivery businesses, but others are trying out delivery for the first time. Family-owned Korean barbecue favorite Han Il Kwan, a Richmond mainstay for more than a decade known for its short ribs and bibimbap, took a hit even before the shutdown, due to skittish consumers unfairly avoiding Chinese and Korean restaurants. But after the shelter in place order, owner Jun Su Kim took the opportunity to launch delivery. Lunch specials on weekdays are a particularly good deal, according to Kim’s daughter Elaine.
Wine bar Che Fico Alimentari, the second spot opened by the award winning Che Ficoteam, is feeding its own clientele and San Franciscans experiencing economic insecurity. A changing four-course “family meal” is available for purchase each night, but thanks to commitments from investors and other donors, free to those who request it. Currently, they’re providing roughly 250 free meals nightly.
Drinks to go
Perhaps no industry has seen such a dramatic shift as the bar world, with regulations relaxed such that San Francisco bars can sell (and even deliver) cocktails to-go. Gillian Fitzgerald had only recently opened modern Irish bar Casements, and “we had a full program of events getting underway around St. Patrick’s Day,” she says—all of which had to be scrapped. “We felt the safest way to operate was through a delivery-only system, selling our batched cocktails and home comfort food” within the city limits. Bottled house cocktails have been popular, along with gin and tonic flights, Irish whiskey—and Fitzgerald’s granny’s Irish soda bread. “It’s a lovely feeling to bring a little bit of my childhood, and adult comfort food, to people in this bizarre time,” she says.
With his own line of craft cocktail mixes, called Fresh Victor, and a spirits collection that can rival any in San Francisco, Elixir proprietor H. Joseph Ehrmann was well-positioned for takeout and delivery. Spirits, mixers, bitters, and cocktail kits are all available for delivery. Elixir has also moved its weekly trivia night online, asking those who participate for donations that help the staff; Ehrmann also is teaching cocktail classes and holding whiskey tastings online.
Richmond Republic Draught House has a loyal neighborhood following in the Inner Richmond for its burgers and, especially, 24 taps of northern California beer like Pliny the Elder. While the barroom is closed, they’re keeping several favorites on tap to-go in 16 ounce, 32 ounce, and 64 ounce growlers. Canned beers and ciders are available, too; delivery is robust, and now includes alcohol along with the usual menu of upscale pub food. “The community support has been incredible," says bar manager Suket Mahal. "Neighbors, friends, and regulars are the ones pushing us to keep trying.” Building on that support, they’re partnering with SF New Deal, a program linking restaurants with large-scale deliveries to first responders, low-income families, and the homeless. Staying open, Mahal believes, is a service to the suppliers they rely on, as well as the community. “If we keep buying, we’re doing our part to keep the farmers and breweries going,” he says.
Each of these businesses is proud to play a part in the broader city—trying its best to keep staff employed, communities fed or entertained, and regulars hopeful for a return to something like normalcy, whenever that might be and however it might look.
“I’m not a grocer,” says Prairie’s Anthony Strong, “but I would rather have this general store, feeding the community, than to be sitting at home with a dark restaurant.”
