Much like fashion, cocktail trends are fast-paced and forever evolving in a city like London. Last year, it was all about the gilda Martini, which comes topped with an anchovy, a slice of pepper and an olive (bonus points if the cocktail stick is made of metal and the olive is stuffed with blue cheese).
This year we’ve seen trends take shape in spicy salted tropical fruit-flavoured margaritas, shorter drinks using fewer ingredients in favour of creative infusions and the return of the classic cosmopolitan. It’s safe to say, mixologists are having their moment right now, and they’re basking in the limelight. In fact, many boast the avant-garde flare of Michelin-starred chefs.
Each area of London has its own thriving cocktail scene. Whether it’s the unassuming Ten To One bar in Tottenham or the suited-up Martini maestros at The Connaught, there’s something exciting happening in every corner of the city.
Either way, there's a common denominator; they want to make thought-provoking drinks. The type that you’ll remember forever and tell your friends about. And within this thriving cocktail scene, there’s one trend that has emerged on top.
There’s been a demand for fattier, more savoury flavours, and this isn’t exclusive to just alcoholic beverages. Drinks such as kefir and kombucha, both of which lean into those tangy notes, are on the rise. You may have also noticed that spice and salt are everywhere right now. There’s been an increase in the use of butter and oil in cocktails, too. Nothing is off the cards. The key connector is that they all focus on offering a distinct savoury profile.
15 years ago, a cocktail menu could offer up anything from a classic Old Fashioned to a sickly sweet fluorescent-coloured liquid with a straw, and people would be happy either way. Oh, how the times have changed. We’re living in a time where asking for “something sweet” is considered plain and uninteresting. Want your usual? Boring!
Even if you have a go-to favourite, why would you order it at a trendy bar, when all you have to do is tell your bartender what you like, and they’ll do the rest? Are we witnessing a cultural shift where people are more willing to step outside their comfort zone? It seems that way. There are certainly fewer rules, and the scene has become more accessible.
As the line between food and drinks blurs, ingredients such as caviar, tomatoes, butter, olive oil, garlic and even seaweed are cropping up in bars. Techniques such as fat washing, infusing and oil garnishing are being used to inject extra layers of flavour into drinks, and overall, it’s the short umami sippers that are in high demand right now. These work perfectly as aperitifs or even alongside dinner. To top it off, they’re usually served in an incredibly chic glass.
Savoury cocktails aren’t a new concept on the whole. But if you want to explore beyond the dirty Martini, I invite you to jump aboard this new trend.
In London, you’re spoilt for choice, as you’re never too far from a brilliant bar. It’s not just the kooky East London joints catering to those with experimental palettes. Read on to see where you can enjoy the best cocktails from this growing scene around the capital.
Green Tomato Martini, Julie’s
If you’re a true tomato lover, this Martini is the one for you. The recipe uses clarified tomato with vodka and tomato liqueur, finished with a few vibrant green drops of tarragon oil for an herbal top note. It’s not too potent, meaning you can drink a few of them, and it has a thirst-quenching effect, making it the perfect aperitif to sip on sunny days. The flavour profile of a tomato salad almost makes you want a hunk of mozzarella to eat alongside it.
Address: 135 Portland Rd, London W11 4LW
Website: juliesrestaurant.com
Caviar Martini, Hakkasan
This one is fairly self-explanatory. This is Hakkasan’s twist on the dirty Martini, only the team have somehow managed to make it simultaneously dirtier and posher. Choose between vodka or gin as the base, with Himalayan pink salt and a dash of Mezcal for extra flavour. The drink is then garnished with a spoonful of caviar, adding a bold and buttery taste. Priced at £45, this isn’t one for trying on a whim. But if you’re a caviar lover, do not hesitate.
Address: Hakkasan Hanway Place, 8 Hanway Place, Fitzrovia, London W1T 1HD
Website: hakkasan.com
Szechuan Gibson, The Nomad Bar
Flavours of East Asia and Britain dance in unison in this mouth-tingling sipper. The Szechian Gibson combines Absolut Elyx vodka, Dolin Blanc vermouth, white balsamic pickling liquid and Szechuan oil to create a fiery but clean cocktail. Despite sounding intense, the savoury mix is balanced out with water making it easy to drink and delightfully moreish. Plus, you get to munch on pickled red and white pearl onions in between sips.
Address: 28 Bow St, London WC2E 7AW
Website: thenomadhotel.com
Earth Martini, Three Sheets
As the name suggests, this recipe combines earthy flavours to create a uniquely tart beetroot-based martini. Vibrant beetroot is mixed with Belvedere vodka, olive oil and dry vermouth to create a sweet and savoury blend, which is then garnished with a thin slice of pickled beetroot. Overall, this is a refined twist on the Martini and is easily one of the team's best offerings.
Address: 510b Kingsland Rd, London E8 4AB
Website: threesheets-bar.com
Piazza dei Miracoli, Piazza Italiana
Do you love burrata? This cocktail uses burrata water with tequila, agave, basil and chilli. The acidic lactic flavours from the burrata water offer a subtle buttery saltiness which compliments other more familiar flavours. Think of this as a Margarita with a fun Italian twist.
Address: 38 Threadneedle Street, London, EC2R 8AY
Website: piazzaitaliana.co.uk
Blushed Tomato, Ham Yard Hotel
Salt, bread, pepper, garlic, onion, pickle juice, tomatoes, garlic olive oil, pod pea vodka and apple cider vinegar are all used in this cocktail to create a deliciously boozy clarified gazpacho. Plus, the drink is garnished with a tangy lacto-fermented cherry tomato. Despite having more ingredients than your weekly shopping list, the Blushed Tomato is simple and uncomplicated in flavour. It tastes familiar, as it mimics the flavours of a hearty red sauce or Bloody Mary.
Address: 1 Ham Yard, London W1D 7DT
Website: firmdalehotels.com
Ramson, Nipperkin
Mayfair’s best-kept secret, Nipperkin, never fails to impress when it comes to bold flavours. The Ramson looks relatively harmless with its translucent hue, but it packs a pungent and peppery punch from foraged ingredients such as wild garlic and truffle. The base spirits in this are Boatyard vodka, Renais gin, and Vault coastal vermouth. The cocktail is finished with three-cornered leek oil, which adds to its distinct flavour profile.
Address: 20 Berkeley St, London W1J 8EE
Website: nijulondon.com/nipperkin
Pearl, Nightjar
This umami delight incorporates nature’s savoury ingredient, seafoam, with pickled oyster pearl, toasted popcorn rice tincture and vermouth to offer up a modern twist on a gin cocktail. The nuttiness from the popcorn rice goes well with the Japanese craft gin Roku, making for a clean and rice-y cocktail. If you’re a fan of sake, you’ll love this. Alternatively, if you’d prefer something more delicate, they do a Pan Y Tomate cocktail which uses a basil and mascarpone fat wash.
Address: 129 City Rd, London EC1V 1JB
Website: barnightjar.com