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On a map the island of Elba looks like a strange fish, its round head facing west towards Corsica, and its large, fluked tail pointing back towards Tuscany. A row of mountains runs down the island's spine, and its highest point - Monte Capanne - is exactly where the fish's eye would be. In ancient times, Elba was known as an island of ores and minerals. To this day, the hills are strewn with lustrous crystals (such as purple amethyst and green beryl) that show themselves on the slopes of Month Capanne after the rainy moths like cruxes in spring.
Where to Eat
LA FERRIGNA
Piazza della Repubblica 22, Portfoferraio, Elba, (00 39 0565 914129). Popular restaurant on Portfoferraio's main square with gingham tablecloths and a chef who stands at his hatch, smiling broadly at everyone who comes or goes. The pizzas are food and the pasta portions huge. But go against the flow and order the fish.
RISTORANTE PIZZERIA NETTUNO
Calata Mazzini 21, Portfoferraio, Elba, (00 39 0565 915808). Friendly restaurant on the harbour in Portoferraio. The steaks are great, but inexplicably come with a big plate of spinach. Be sure to order some chips. Great coffee.
OSTERIA DEL NOCE
Via della Madonna 14, Marciana Alta, Marciana, Elba, (00 39 0565 901284). One of the best restaurants on Elba, with magnificant views down the moutnainside to the seasise resort of Marciana Marina. Try the pesce alla genovese: your choice of fish baked with potatoes and olives. The gnocchi are also good.
IL VECHHIO BORGO
Via Roma 1, Capoliveri, Elba, (0039 0565 967073). Excellent mussels and fish on Capoliveri's town square.
How to Get There
AIRLINES FROM THE UK
British Airways (www.ba.com) flies to Pisa from Heathrow and Gatwick. Easyjet (www.easyjet.com) flies from Bristol, Gatwick and Luton. Pisa is about 90 minutes by train (see www.trenitalia.com) from Piombino, where you can take a Moby Lines ferry (www.mobylines.com) to Portoferraio.