Where the Chefs Eat: Angela Hartnett on her favourite restaurants across the country

Angela Hartnett is a tour de force. She has worked with everyone from Gordon Ramsay to Marcus Wareing and was awarded an MBE in 2007. Constantly appearing on our TV screens, she also does a weekly podcast, DISH, with radio DJ Nick Grimshaw, a dinner party of sorts hosted by the two, known for their natural, often hilarious, synergy. And, as if that wasn’t enough, she is doing an extensive refurbishment ahead of the 15th anniversary of her Michelin-starred Mayfair hotspot, Murano, which celebrates a decade and a half on the food scene this September.

“I suppose, in a sense, Murano has never been fashionable like many other places, but it’s coming up to 15 years since we opened, which I’m proud of. We’ve got an incredible amount of regulars, but you always need to keep moving forward, and it’s time to do a nice refurb. We’re not throwing the baby out with the bath water, or whatever that expression is, but we want the design to move forward and tweak some of the stuff on the menu, maybe get a bit more Italian again,” she says.

Angela is known for her straight-shooting way, which comes through as she discusses the venue’s facelift: “I think change is good and, as long as you stick to your core values, then things should stay great. I had [Murano] for two and a half years with Gordon [Ramsay], and then I bought it from him. But I can’t believe it’s now 15 years. I’ve had people that work for me for a long time, and we know our regulars and take care of them, and that’s so important.” Known as a favourite spot to the likes of Stanley Tucci and Camilla Parker-Bowles (who recently described Murano as the restaurant where she’d happily have her last supper if able to choose), food lovers flock back time and again for the menu, reminiscent of the dishes Angela learnt from her Italian grandmother and aunts, using seasonal British produce. “Our customers have looked after us, in terms of sticking with us through the good and bad times, but I never stop and sit back and feel like we’ve done it. You’ve always got to think about what else can change and move forward,” she muses.

As for Angela’s seemingly crazy busy schedule, she is very calm about it, explaining, “it looks like I’m super busy and always on TV, but I’m never on as much as people think because you’ve got to remember that you film something and then they do a lot of television repeats. And for the podcast with Nick, I do five episodes two days a month; it’s about utilising your time wisely: that’s how I get so much done.”

Despite what many would deem as a hefty schedule, Angela takes time to share her five favourite restaurants across the country in which to bunker down, get cosy and eat away a day, all of which are small in stature but huge in heart.

The Seahorse, Dartmouth

“The Seahorse in Dartmouth [founded by Mat Prowse and Mitch Tonks] is somewhere I’ve been going, back and forth, for the past ten years. Mitch is a great guy, and we’ve all become dear friends; it’s a home-from-home. I know that’s a very old-fashioned term, but it’s all just very relaxed, and everyone is so welcoming there.”

Who comes here?

“Seafood fans and also those with a love of Italian food. Italian gastronomy underpins the seafood menu, so it’s a beautiful blend of the two.”

Best table in the restaurant?

“There is a table in the back of the restaurant in the corner so you can see everything that’s going on so you can see into the kitchen from there and across to everything else.”

Best time to come?

“The Seahorse is very small, but they’ve got a lovely little bar called Joe’s Bar, and the key is to get there early enough and have a lovely drink in Joe’s and then go for dinner.”

Dish to order?

“They do a red mullet dish where they literally cut it down the centre, bake it and let it rest – it’s just perfect. The wine is really, really good, too. This is what a good local restaurant should be, and the food is excellent.”

The Kinneuchar Inn, Fife

“James [Ferguson] and his partner Alethea [Palmer] who run The Kinneuchar Inn are two of my oldest friends from back in London. They took over this 17th-century inn in Fife, where he cooks and she does the front of house. James used to work with me, and Alethea used to work on TV. They’re just cooking and doing food they love and serving it out, and it’s in a small village in a beautiful part of the world. James is a really fantastic chef; Akethea is a magic, natural host.”

Who comes here?

"It’s loved by locals but shouldn’t be missed if you’re in that part of the world. In fact, it’s worth going there just to visit.”

Best table in the restaurant?

“There’s a tiny room, which isn’t really a snug, but it’s called The Snug, so it feels like you’re in a really cosy space and, because they allow dogs, it’s really nice to go and sit and take the pups for lunch with you.”

Best time to come?

“Anytime is great but if you can get there on a Bank Holiday Monday, they do this thing – specifically on a Bank Holiday Monday – which is a fried chicken bun. James will do three or four hundred of them. They are amazing.”

Dish to order?

“One of the really great things I had last time I was up was just Scottish langoustines with homemade mayonnaise. The langoustines were phenomenal. I think I ate the whole plate myself, though I should’ve been sharing, but they were just so good. But the menu is always fantastic, and it changes daily.”

Restaurant Sat Bains, Nottingham

“I haven’t been to Restaurant Sat Bains in a long time, but it’s an absolute favourite of mine. What I love about Sat is he’s had John [Freeman] with him for nearly 20 years as head chef, and he’s got a great pallet. The food is always interesting and different. He doesn’t open for lunch, except on Saturdays. He only does supper, and he will open the chef’s table specially for me.”

Who comes here?

“Sat has an amazing reputation so you’ll get foodies from across the country heading to Nottingham just to eat here.”

Best table in the restaurant?

“I can only recommend the chef’s table because it’s the only place I’ve eaten in there.”

Best time to come?

“We’ve always gone up to Nottingham and had a great lunch up there so I’d say it’s well worth a day trip on a Saturday.”

Dish to order?

“Sat does this amazing version of a fish pie. It’s a beautiful piece of fish in a sauce, really cleverly done with mash that was mashed directly onto the plate – that really stuck out in my mind and it may not be on the menu now, but I loved it. Order that if you ever see it.”

Outlaw's Fish Kitchen, Cornwall

“I think Nathan is one of the truly great chefs in the UK. He’s a natural chef with a great palate, and he’s one of those people I always see when I’m in the area. I’ll sometimes just pop my head in and stay for a coffee. I love to walk down to Port Isaac to Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen [located, as it is, in a 15th-century fisherman’s cottage]. I just love Nathan’s style: he uses lots of vegetables and gets his fish straight off the boat.”

Who comes here?

“Nathan has an incredible reputation so you’ll find people from across the country who have planned ahead and booked in just to try his food. Of course, it’s massive amongst fish lovers, in particular.”

Best table in the restaurant?

“You need to plan ahead to get a table as it’s small in there but, because it’s so small, any table is a great table.”

Best time to come?

“There is no bad time to go but, if you’re there for a couple of days, do what I do which is to also go to his other Port Isaac restaurant, Outlaw’s New Road.” [If you book a two-night stay you can also stay at his Outlaw’s Guest House: then dinner at both restaurants is included.]

Dish to order?

“This is one of those places where the menu really does change daily, but I love when Nathan does cured and raw fish. He does a beautiful mackerel dish with pickled gooseberries, and he does another one with apple and sage in it. I think the cured dishes are always delicious so go for one of those if you’re unsure.”

Folkestone Wine Company, Kent

Folkestone Wine Company is run by a lovely couple called Dave and Polly and, it’s not really so much of an old-fashioned bistro, but it has a very small menu: maybe three or four nibbley bits, three main courses and four of five starters and that’ll be it. Dave has a kitchen porter in the kitchen and will have Polly outside at front of house, and that’s it. They set it up all on their own.”

Who comes here?

“A mix of people wanting a bite and those after seriously good wine.”

Best table in the restaurant?

“None of the places I’ve mentioned are big – all are very small – but at this place, I’d definitely get a table at the front so you can see out onto the High Street. It’s absolutely lovely.”

Best time to come?

“This is more of a weekend hangout because it’s only open from Thursday through to Sundays so it’s a relaxed place for a really easy lunch or supper with, obviously, amazing wine.”

Dish to order?

“Dave does one of the best crème brûlées I’ve ever had in my life. He has really classical training under his belt but also a very modern touch. I’ve been there quite a few times, and if you can get the crème brûlée or the Tart Tatin, they’re phenomenal.”