Where the Chefs Eat: Michel Roux Jr's top riverside restaurants

There is a real air of calm around Michel Roux Jr. when we speak ahead of his new show, Roux on the River, airing from 1 February 2024. Notoriously hard-working, a leader of the British gastronomic scene and a figurehead of high-end haute cuisine, the closure of Le Gavroche – his family’s iconic Mayfair restaurant – will, no doubt, leave a gaping hole in his life, both literally and figuratively. Yet, he seems happy and very relaxed. He describes the closure of Le Gavroche as one he did “purposefully, not just for me but for my whole team” and, in the coming days, he has an array of final parties and send offs with family, friends and staff (both old and new). But, while he may not be standing for seemingly endless hours at the pass of Le Gavroche anymore, he isn’t showing any signs of slowing down, even if his demeanour is rather more zen than expected.

Episode one of his new show does, as the title suggests, follow Roux up and down the River Thames, showcasing gorgeous spots to eat and drink between Cookham and Bray. At the epicentre of this is his family’s three Michelin-starred Waterside Inn, an idyll of fine fare on the gentle riverbank in Berkshire’s Bray. Michel drops into favourite Thameside spots to chat with head chefs and patrons, before hopping back onto a beautiful narrow boat to cook his take on their food for viewers. The entire thing is extremely relaxing – think food television set against a sleepy riverboat ride – and presents a very chilled Michel Roux Jr as a result, one who seems reflective about life and all he has achieved to date.

“[Roux on the River] is real escapism, but I think if you are watching it, you’re also getting wound along the river. For me, it was quite emotional (he has family buried in the church in Bray). It really is a wonderful experience to be on the river, and we were very lucky to have it. The weather was splendid. It was just so hypnotic and therapeutic for me.” And, while he doesn’t seem to be a man who takes a huge amount of time off, Michel admits he does “love fishing, and I love being on the river, and that is sort of how the idea for this came about. And, of course, The Waterside Inn is there, and it’s part of our family’s history.” Though The Waterside Inn is the only restaurant to retain three stars outside of France continuously since 1985, the restaurants, pubs and hotels that Michel covers for the show are not all as iconic (or as much of a treat financially). From cheesy chips to quintessential English afternoon tea, the River Thames has it all, and Michel Roux Jr. shares his top five riverside spots exclusively below.

The Waterside Inn, Berkshire

Let’s start at the top! I don’t go regularly enough, but now that Le Gavroche is coming to an end, I’m hoping to go more often. I love fooling around with my cousin [Alain Roux]; he’s a cheeky so-and-so. We get on really well, and we love cooking together. The banter is wonderful, and it is a spectacular place. It obviously has very close connections with myself and the family, so I love going there. It brings back lots of childhood memories for me.

Who comes here?

Francophiles, Roux fans, lovers of fine dining, and Michelin-starred restaurant staff flock from across the world to dine under the talented eye of Alain Roux.

Best table in the restaurant

You’ve got to start with a drink outside before you sit down. Start on the pontoon or, if you’re lucky, bag one of the little gazebos that are heated. That’s the height of luxury right there. That really is living: get a bottle of champagne and canapés in the gazebo and watch the swans go by.

Best time to come

It’s always wonderful being out on the river during the summer months, but I think it’s worth it for a weekend away. Of course, it’s got rooms as well so you can stay if you want. It’s a fair old trot out of London so it’s a nice spot to stay the night if you can.

Dish to order

I always have a soufflé. So, if they have a savoury one, I’ll go for the savoury; otherwise, I’ll have a sweet one off the dessert menu because it’s a bit of a Roux speciality. On the show, you’ll see I try the raspberry soufflé but, at the Waterside Inn, we always have soufflés for the season.

The Bounty, Bourne End

This is a proper pub, as opposed to a gastropub. You can only access it by water or on foot, and a lot of chefs go there. It is absolutely seeped in history, and they’ve got really good, proper, nice beer. I don’t like cheap fizzy ales – I think they’re a waste of time and taste horrible – but this is good proper beer, and it comes from Marlowe, so it’s local.

Who comes here?

This is a very local joint with eclectic music and you’ll find all ages in here; it’s a proper boozer. It’s just extraordinary because every walk of life will go in through those doors and have a pint: you’ll have locals who own the mansion down the river that cost £10 million, and you might have a chef from The Waterside Inn, who has just come off his shift and wants a sneaky pint.

Best table in the restaurant

If the weather permits, sit outside. However, on the inside, I would say the best spot is just opposite the bar. There’s a lovely little snug, and that is the place to peoplewatch because it’s slightly elevated, and you can see everyone coming in and out.

Best time to come

Anytime, but if the sun is shining, get there during the late afternoon for sundowners on the river.

Dish to order

Alongside your beer, I would go for the cheesy chips. They don’t mess around here; it’s not fancy, and they don’t pretend to be something they aren’t. This is where you go and have a good time with a good couple of pints and, if you’re feeling peckish, you can get cheesy chips with either Stilton or Cheddar. I went for the cheddar chips, and they were absolutely delicious.

The Dysart Petersham, Richmond

Kenneth Culhane, the head chef at The Dysart, is one of our Roux scholars, and I love going to his restaurant because I love supporting our scholars. We are celebrating our 40th anniversary this year, and if you think of the most prestigious and difficult culinary competition to win in the UK, it has to be the Roux Scholarship. Scholars invariably do go on to fantastic things and gain stars in their own right, just like Ken at the Dysart, who has one Michelin star. It is the most beautiful place to go, and you’re in the countryside in Petersham. It’s a lovely leafy green area before you get into what I consider the London suburbs and the food is just outstanding.

Who comes here?

It has a very local Petersham vibe, but that said, the famous food critic Andy Hayler has written several times about The Dysart, so I’ve noticed the clientele is becoming a bit more cosmopolitan.

Best table in the restaurant

At colder times of the year, you want to be right by the fireplace – it’s the only place to be.

Best time to come

I think it’s great at lunchtime as it’s got an excellent lunch menu.

Dish to order

My favourite dish is the wild seabream, which is on the menu nearly all year round. Ken does it with a really crisp skin that has flavours of Japan. Ken and I and a few other scholars went on a trip to Japan on a culinary adventure together about 15 years ago and we came back with lots of ideas and inspiration. This particular dish was created from that trip; it’s so wonderful to see something come from the Roux Scholarship of this type - not just a scholar but an actual dish.

Food, Leigh-on-Sea

When I head to Southend, I automatically think of cockles and jellied eels. Leigh-on-Sea is really nice and very famous for its cockles. And right on Leigh High Street is a place called Food. It’s quite small, and it’s not all Michelin stars, but the food they produce is exquisite. It has a daily changing menu with one hundred per cent local produce on it, and everything they do is gluten-free and dairy-free. They purposefully do that because the owner feels it’s better for your health. Now, whether you subscribe to that or not is by-the-by, because you’ll love their food.

Who comes here?

Anyone in the local areas who knows Food will go, and it’s especially popular as a hangout on Thursday nights when they get local musicians in to do live sets.

Best table in the restaurant

There’s no bad table, but it isn’t huge so, I think if you can grab one, take whatever they give you.

Best time to come

I’d make a day trip to Leigh-on-sea. I recommend going to Osborne‘s Fish counter [in The Cocklesheds on the high street] first to get a tub of cockles. Chow down on those, maybe with a sneaky beer, and then go into Food for a proper, really warming meal. I was blown away by it.

Dish to order

Food uses a local pig farm, only local fish and local venison – this is 100 per cent local, and anything you order will be divine. It’s hard to give a dish to order because the menu changes so often, but if you are happy to hand yourself over to them, go for the tasting menu.

The Compleat Angler, Marlow

There is really nothing nicer than afternoon tea in Marlowe on the River Wier, and I’ve been to The Compleat Angler with my wife a couple of times now. It’s not mind-blowing or akin to a hotel afternoon tea like at The Langham or The Ritz in London, but when it’s a glorious day and the sun is shining, you just can’t beat it.

Who comes here?

Because this is a hotel, you get guests there from all over the place, but those in the know will get there for afternoon tea or drinks too, so it’s a very mixed bag of locals and those travelling in from all places.

Best table in the restaurant

You can’t get more quintessentially English than tea outside on the grass by the river. The sound of the river and the smell of it – it smells wonderful of that lovely fresh humidity you get in the warm summer months – it’s just my idea of heaven.

Best time to come

Any spring or summer afternoon that you find the sun is out.

Dish to order

It has to be the afternoon tea of Victoria sponge cake, really good scones with strawberry jam and clotted cream and chocolate cake in the most idyllic, sublime place. I’ve been twice and, when I go, I order the English sparkling wine - not the champagne, but the local English sparkling wine.

Roux Down The River premieres at 9pm on Thursday 1 February 2024 on Food Network, and is available to stream on discovery+.