Where the Chefs Eat: Raymond Blanc OBE shares his favourite restaurants in the world – and the secrets behind his success

If you’ve lazily flicked on Sunday morning TV at some point over the last few decades, chances are you’ve had Raymond Blanc brighten your day. The chef’s warm smile, thick accent and passionate monologues are creamier than freshly churned butter.

Despite hailing from the hinterlands of the Jura mountains, he has become as synonymous with British cooking as it gets. The day before our interview, I watched James Martin and Daniel Clifford, two award-winning chefs at the top of their game, squirm as they cooked under his watchful gaze. “Big!” He chastened as he took the whisk from James Martin, “Not like that, like this – bring in as much air as possible, so the bubbles are as big as possible,” causing titters from the cast off-camera. His genuine desire to learn, teach and better not just those around him but himself has resulted in the establishment of an icon in the form of his two-Michelin-starred Oxfordshire hotel and restaurant.

A hotel like Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons doesn’t get the reputation it has by accident. Raymond Blanc OBE has dedicated his life to the art of hospitality, and creating a place so reliably impeccable is the product of a perfect storm of grit, devotion and genius.

“The process of growing was pretty painful,” Blanc said in an early documentary interview that recently did the rounds on Instagram. “It didn't happen just like that, it wasn't a miracle. It was sweat, just pure sweat, just pure will, just pure effort, just pure dedication [...] Every day, you've got to come to it with the most; although you're absolutely broken, physically you're broken, you're in pieces, but you have to put yourself together and still give what is expected and even surprise your guests a little bit.”

Blanc’s commitment hasn’t faltered over the years. As we walked across the immaculate grounds of Le Manoir, you could practically hear the cogs whirring. “This is not good enough,” he muttered, gesturing towards a newly built wooden casing for some electric cables. “What a waste of space. Every inch of the gardens should be used to create something beautiful.” He describes the vision in his mind: a structure that embraces the nature surrounding it, the wires unnoticeable behind twisted vines with blooming flowers. Next, he spies a rogue bee hive standing alone in the hotel’s front garden. He immediately whips out his phone to ask the gardening team to move it. He notices the French flag wrapped around its pole and orders someone to uncoil it. Nothing escaped his watchful eye, and perfection is clearly a never-ending pursuit.

For the 40 years that it has existed, Le Manoir has consistently held two Michelin stars. The food served here is outstanding, benefiting not only from Raymond’s decades of experience but also from the variety of ingredients grown within the estate’s gardens (the menu is driven by every month of the season – it changes at least 12 times per year). But to visit the restaurant isn’t just to eat the food. It’s a holistic experience; as much about strolling down that lavender-lined pathway and smelling the soft scented flowers (there are 11, soon to be 16, gardens to explore), cosying up by the fire in the living room, and meeting the different people who work tirelessly to make this place what it is.

“It's a complete ensemble; every person must contribute – and they do. A perfect ensemble is created by individuals who are in love with the place. They are trained and they are supported, too – whether it is a waiter, a front of house, a reservationist, a sommelier. It's all connected,” Raymond explains. “People here are well paid, they are trained, they're cared for. The vision, which was once mine, now belongs to them as much as it belongs to me. We own it together.”

It’s not hard to see how much the staff care about their work. In the restaurant, we heard a young sommelier mutter to himself, “Ok, table 26. Let’s start their experience.” The following day as we walked through the gardens, Raymond stopped to thank the gardeners for the hard work they put in every day, to which they replied: “You’ve been doing this for 40 years, it’s our turn now.”

It’s clear that Raymond's desire to teach is one of the defining features behind Le Manoir’s enduring success. “In the past, to be a chef, you had to be a reject, a social outcast or an academic failure. There was no training in the industry, and it was violent and full of drugs,” he explains. “I wanted to change that. I wanted to be part of the people who change to create an industry which is extraordinary.”

Over the years, he has taken young chefs under his wing and shaped them into some of the world’s best, from Heston Blumenthal and Michael Caines to Marco Pierre White and Paul Heathcote. Whoever first proclaimed that you should never meet your heroes clearly hadn't met Raymond Blanc – his kind warmth and earnest consideration make him one of the best mentors in the game. Recently, Luke Selby joined Le Manoir as executive head chef – he had previously spent six years as Blanc’s protege before moving on to work at London’s Evelyn’s Table, where his food earned the restaurant its first Michelin star. “It is such a joy to work with Luke,” says Raymond. “He is going to become one of the beacons of British gastronomy – he’s got skill, talent, work ethics, kindness. He embraces the whole ethos of the business, not just the kitchen.”

When discussing his list of all-time favourite restaurants for this piece, he was hesitant to fill up all the slots with his own proteges but didn’t shy away from singing their praises. There were so many restaurants he felt were deserving of a mention, so it was a challenge to whittle it down to just five. But below, find Raymond Blanc's favourite places to eat in the world – chosen as much for their excellent food as for their sustainability efforts, outstanding locations and his own sentimental attachments to their head chefs.

Raymond Blanc’s favourite restaurants in the world

Chiltern Firehouse, London

“This place has the best ambience. There’s a courtyard, a huge outdoor terrace with heaters, and there’s a beautiful bar made of onyx, it’s like melted gold, with this amber quality. The restaurant is fantastic. The bar is fantastic – it’s the best bar in London, for me.”

Who comes here?
"Quite a lot of wealthy people, lots of celebrities go there, so there’s a bit of stargazing with David Beckham or Naomi Campbell. But they manage to keep the simplicity, it's very stylish, with elegant service and good food. If you’ve been working hard and need a build of spoiling, then meet your loved one or your friends here.”

Dish to order?
“They have the best seafood. The Irish oysters are absolutely amazing – Bobby Groves, seafood chef, is the best oyster guy in the world, as far as I’m concerned. He selects only the best oysters.”

Table to book?
“If it’s sunny: the terrace. If it’s rainy: the terrace. Whatever the weather, it’s so beautiful, with the trees and everything. It's a sanctuary where there's lots of laughter, fun, joy and good food.

Best time to come?
“I often go to lunchtime for a break with my family and my friends.”

Moss, Blue Lagoon, Iceland

“Iceland is like the moon, with rocks and mosses and, of course, volcanoes. The blue lagoon is so beautiful, it’s like the eighth Wonder of the World. It has healing qualities, snow falling around you and then this milky blue water – you are in heaven here, and you feel so well. And then when you get out and visit Moss Restaurant – it’s right next to the lagoon – the food is amazing. Head chef Agnar Sverrisson worked with me for five years, and I helped him to set up his restaurant. His values are even more pure than mine – he's a genius.”

Who comes here?
“People looking to experience genius. The design of the restaurant is all about the nature around it. There is an inner beauty and depth of flavour – there is no better place.”

Table to book?
“There’s truly not a bad table at Moss – you get these extraordinary views from every seat.”

Best time to come?
“In winter when it’s so cold and you can sit in the hot springs and then eat amazing food.”

Ristorante Don Alfonso 1890, Sorrento

“I’ve known Don Alfonso and his family for 30 years. I was blown away by his place and his kind of hospitality – it really comes from the heart. The restaurant is full of magnificent ideas, everything is always fresh and seasonal and warm. He is a very elegant gentleman, he is so charming. It’s a family business that has been around for three generations. Visit the cellar, which is 1,000 years old – you have to go underground, and it’s like going into the land of the darkness, with alcohol and huge wheels of cheese. It was so beautiful to discover.”

Who comes here?
“Just lovely people who appreciate this rare breed of restaurant. The family has given their life to it and they are dedicated to giving guests the best moment of their life – no less. And they do it regularly.”

Table to book?
“By the window, where there is more light. But there’s no bad table.”

What is the best time to come?

“Summer is best here when you get the sun, and the days are long, and you can spend hours watching the sun go down.”

What is the best dish to order?
“I had a local fish, caught in a lake not far away. It was decorated with these edible wild orange flowers, pan-fried with lots of Provence herbs and fennel seeds and done on the bone. It was just divine. There was garlic mayonnaise served on the side which was naughty but nice.”

Arzak, San Sebastian, Spain

“I don’t get to go here often, but it's a family affair and they are just lovely. They have big hearts and glittering eyes and are so welcoming. They are great cooks, its three Michelin-starred food. It’s a proper establishment.”

Who comes here?
“A mixture of people who adore food and lots of locals too. There are also always tourists who keep coming back. I long to go back and pay them a visit.”

What is the best table in the restaurant?
“Yes, I have a favourite. It’s a rectangular restaurant, and the table is in the back right-hand corner, where you can see everyone, but nobody can see you.”

What is the best time to come?
“It doesn’t matter – you come for the people; it’s simple, beautiful, like a home.”

What is the best dish to order?
“The marinated lamb was quite something. It was local lamb cooked with dried seaweed, which is very odd, but the mixture of the sea and the earth created an extraordinary flavour. The lamb was very, very tender, served simply, not with a sauce, but with the juice of the lamb. He is moving away from his Italian roots to embrace other cultures, and he does it so well. There was also an apple dish, with different textures, from crisp to baked, with a cider sabayon and saffron.”

Brasserie Blanc, Beaconsfield, UK

“You might say that this is self-promotion, but no – I want to explain my reasoning for featuring this restaurant. I wanted world excellence, which touched on world-class values – not gold-plated luxury, but a luxury which is responsible. There are so many values in this place. I opened my first one in Oxford, 27 years ago – I wanted only one bistro, and now we've got 37. It’s such an inclusive space, it’s truly special.”

Who comes here?

“We have something for everyone – it’s a great mixture of couples, families, business colleagues and friends. One thing all the brasseries have in common is a love of fresh seasonal food. We have our top 3 star SRA award, it’s one of the things we’re most proud about.”

Dish to order?

“We change our menus regularly to showcase the very best of the season. So, currently, we have some fantastic new dishes, such as our grilled king prawns with black rice enriched with prawn bisque, braised peas, broad beans and piquillo peppers. Or our duck leg confit with citrus sauce. We’re also renowned for signature dishes such as our Sunday roasts with bottomless trimmings, our delicious cheese or decadent pistachio soufflés.”

Table to book?

“Cosy into one of our luscious, rounded banquette seating areas in the main pavilion area of this beautifully vaulted ceiling space for the perfect dining experience.”

Best time to come?

“We’re open from breakfast to night time, but there’s always a buzz around our early evening Happy Hour, which makes it the perfect start to your evening. Our Wednesday Steak night is arguably the most popular evening to celebrate with our loyal, local guests, week in, week out.”

La Regalade, Paris, France

“I was really impressed with this restaurant because so many people claim that Paris has lost its touch – and that it is true. I think Paris suffered a lack of creativity when they didn't embrace globalisation. They refused to embrace change. But now they do, and you can see that when you go to some of the fantastic restaurants there. La Regalade has a great ambience, the best food and at a very reasonable price point. It’s a proper bistro.”

Who comes here?
“People visit Regalade from all over the world. In fact, I myself went last month.”

Table to book?
“I just sat where I was told, and it was perfectly fine. There’s no favourite, it’s all good.”

Best time to come?
“I came for an early dinner and the restaurant was already full of locals. There is such a buzz.”

Dish to order?
“I had some of the best food here, it absolutely was celebrating the seasons. I went in spring, and I had this dish with morels and white asparagus. It was just divine. I also ate the beef, which melted in my mouth. It was a feast. There was a very Maman Blanc type of dessert, too – rice cooked in vanilla milk, and there was a beautiful black crust on the top. It was very lovely.”