Review: São Lourenco do Barrocal, Portugal hotel review

Why book?

Tranquillity is easy to find in Portugal’s Alentejo countryside, but nowhere feels quite as special as this little rural escape, where the landscape is vast and beautiful, the food fresh and hearty and the staff passionate and genuine.

Set the scene

More than just a luxury hotel, São Lourenço is also a working winery, olive grove and farm in Portugal's wild, sun-bleached Alentejo region. After the two-hour journey from Lisbon, you drive down the oak-lined drive and realise you've stumbled upon something special. Aside from the lack of noise pollution, there’s something unique in the light here, and the way it bounces off the whitewashed walls of the property.

This isn’t a built-up hotel with a bustling reception and busy lifts ferrying guests to and from rooms. Every effort has been made to maintain the farmhouse charm that has existed here since 1820 (albeit a luxury, 21st-century version), and there are reminders throughout of the property’s beginnings; from the images of family dating back over a hundred years in the low-key reception, to the original winemaking equipment that’s still used in the cellars today. As a result, staying here feels like a very luxurious step back in time, and certainly a million miles away from the bustling city hotels in Lisbon.

The backstory

This remarkable project is the work of former investment banker José António Uva, who was determined to reinvigorate the family monté (farming village), and eventually did so, reopening the property as a hotel in 2016. Renowned Portuguese architect Eduardo Souto de Moura is responsible for the chic, barefoot design that has undoubtedly inspired many a wannabe designer on their travels, and the carved wooden furniture, handmade lampshades and understated furnishings are the golden thread adding a finishing touch throughout the property.

But while the level of luxury here is enough to satisfy even the most well-heeled traveller, the peace that comes from a deep sense of history pervades the whole place. From the building itself to the many boulder – or barrocais (which were once used by tribes as ceremonial sites) – there’s a reminder of São Lourenço’s past everywhere you look.

The rooms

All of the rooms are accessed from the cobbled courtyard, and have been converted from former stables. The low-lying exterior is beautifully photogenic, and it would surely be impossible to wander through here in the late afternoon sun without feeling inspired. The feeling continues in the rooms, which are the embodiment of farmhouse chic; vast and rustic, with a colour palette of white, beige, and duck egg blue that’s instantly calming. Beds are oversized and comfortable, finished with handwoven wool blankets, and bathrooms have luxe underfloor heating and – in some cases – a welcoming bathtub.

Courtyard and Farm rooms have views over the acres of land, and if you wake up early enough you’ll be able to spot the sunrise hot air balloons taking off over the Alentejo plains (it’s a popular activity for visitors, and one that the hotel can organise if you so wish). In the evening, don’t forget to step out and look up; the area is a Dark Sky Reserve, and the stars are beautiful on a clear night.

The food and drink

Portuguese cuisine doesn’t get enough acclaim; the country’s meaty rice dishes, fish stews and love of a double carb are worth celebrating, but São Lourenço manages to bring a light, fresh version of traditional dishes to the table. That’s not to say that you won’t feel overwhelmed with options, starting at breakfast, where the buffet table is lined with local honey (from the on-site bees), jams, meats, cheeses and more. There’s a consistent nod to traditional Alentejan dishes (which tend to be hearty and comforting) throughout all menus; don’t miss the black pork or the açorda, which is a type of bread soup that’s packed with flavour. If you’re travelling as a group or family, the best way to dine here is to order multiple plates and share; the flavours are meant to be mixed, and you’ll undoubtedly want to try a little of everything anyway.

There are two restaurants – one indoor, one outdoor. Understandably, there’s a strong farm-to-table ethos when it comes to dining in both. For the past 200 years, the estate has been producing its own food and goods, including cereals, olive oil, wine and meat, and little has changed now (in fact, the olive oil in particular is memorable for its buttery, smooth texture – and yes, you can pick up a bottle to take home).

The spa

For some properties, a spa can feel like an afterthought, but here it’s quite clearly built into the fibre of the hotel, making it a must-visit during your stay. Housed in the area where single workers lived in its original iteration, the space is large and airy, with monastery-like white archways and a rustic vibe in-keeping with the rest of the property. Treatment rooms are vast – some of the largest I’ve ever seen – with no chance of claustrophobia creeping in during a massage, and there’s a small amount of natural light coming through the original windows, which has the effect of keeping you connected to the peace of the property.

While São Lourenço strives to promote local and Portuguese-made brands throughout the hotel, its spa products are from Austrian brand Susanne Kaufmann – a choice I questioned at first, but one that makes complete sense when you understand that just a handful of properties in Europe stock her eponymous products, each one chosen for their commitment to the brand’s natural and homegrown ethos. The scent of the massage oil, combined with citrus fruits and herbs picked from the hotel’s hectares, is intoxicating during the spa’s signature treatment.

Post-massage, guests relax with homemade energy balls and delicious teas. There’s also a dry sauna and fitness centre within the spa building, should you wish to extend your wellness moment.

The neighbourhood

While the property itself is remote, those with cars may wish to pay a visit to the largest nearby town of Évora, one of our favourite parts of Portugal. Its Roman remains and picture-perfect Portuguese streets draw visitors from Lisbon regularly, but at less than an hour’s drive from the property its doable in an afternoon.

The service

If you notice one thing from the people of Portugal, it will probably be their quiet pride in their beautiful country. The staff here are no different, and all have an extra desire for you to understand the significance of the farmhouse, and how the modern day iteration pays homage to its roots. For example, chefs at the poolside restaurant will happily walk you around the vast herb garden, talking you through the various ingredients used in your lunch. Or the bartenders will point out newspaper clippings on the history of the property as they shake up your whiskey sour.

Guests mostly come here for some time to themselves, so you’ll certainly be left to your own devices for the most-part – but rest assured that there’s a wealth of knowledge at your fingertips, should you wish to pick the team’s brains.

Eco effort

A working farmhouse will understandably be as self-sufficient as possible, so sustainably-minded travellers can rest assured knowing that their food is locally-sourced, rooms were designed with local artisans and makers where possible, and the property’s owners have a genuine passion for maintaining and improving the land. There’s a 10,000 square metre vegetable garden on-site, plus 24 solar panels and four boreholes for groundwater collection.

Staff are hired locally – 80 per cent from the property’s surrounding area – which allows for their passion and knowledge to shine through.

For families

While this is an escape that’s made for relaxation, the hotel has ensured there’s plenty to do; whether that’s a horseback ride through the 780 hectares of land, a morning spent with the property’s beekeeper, Fabio, who gently introduces guests to his five hives with utter care, or simply a bicycle ride on one of the free-to-use bikes. There are two swimming pools (one of which is a smaller, toddler-friendly option) and seemingly endless space for young ones to run around with abandon while adults watch happily from the sidelines.

Anything else left to mention?

There’s a beautiful gift shop on-site that you’ll undoubtedly want to get lost in – and while they do ship, we recommend saving some space in your luggage to avoid customs charges. While it’s tempting to relax by the pool or take a slow wander, the activities here are really memorable, so be sure to book into a wine-tasting or pottery class to equip yourself with stories for when you return home.