Review: Six Senses Douro Valley, Portugal review

Why book?

If the Douro Valley is on your bucket list, there’s never been a better time to make the trip a reality. As one of the world’s oldest wine regions, the Douro is a place you must see to believe; its layered landscape with the river winding through can feel like another world. And Six Senses is perfectly positioned to help you make the most of your trip to this peaceful land.

Set the scene

The Six Senses group chose the dramatically verdant landscape of the Douro Valley in northern Portugal for its maiden foray into Europe, mixing the integrated wellness focus it has built its reputation on with the world of wine. And it’s a combination that goes hand-in-hand. Without ever feeling like part of a chain, this is a triumphantly peaceful bolthole which launches Six Senses standards in a corner of Europe that has nothing else of this calibre.

The backstory

Nestled among the vineyards of Portugal’s oldest wine region are the terracotta-coloured walls of this 19th-century quinta, which was originally named Vale de Abraão, after Abraão Farah leased the vineyard from João Lourenço de Seara (a valet to King Afonso V). Many years (and renovations) later, the property launched as a Six Senses in 2015 after an extensive refurbishment from Clodagh Design.

Now, it’s often considered to be one of the best hotels in Portugal, with an interactive wine library, where you can learn about the local vintages and terroirs at the nightly tastings, plus a restaurant, spa and outdoor pool – and, of course, a stunning view of the vineyards and river.

The rooms

Waking up to the sun rising over the steeped vineyards is something special, and the floor-to-ceiling windows in river-view rooms make getting out of bed particularly difficult – particularly when the handmade mattresses and temperature regulating pillows make for such a wonderful night’s sleep.

There’s a focus on locality within the 71 rooms and suites, with Portuguese oak floors, cork accents, cosmetics displayed in ceramics made locally and a minibar stocked with products produced in Portugal. The helpful control panel is a nice touch and allows you to open the blinds without leaving the comfort of your bed.

There are also villas available to book, away from the main building and nestled amongst the gardens. Each one has its own private pool and garden, plus kitchens (or, if you’d rather, the option of a chef to come and cook) and multiple rooms available depending on your group size.

The food and drink

It goes without saying that wine is a focus here, with an impressive selection of local and Portuguese wines available (there’s even a machine which allows you to pour your own glasses; some might say it’s a little too tempting). Staff are extremely knowledgeable about the offering, and will help you discover the many local wines and ports on offer, so even if you don’t have time for a tasting, the service still feels personal.

Meals are mostly taken in the Vale d’Abraão restaurant, which in summer spills out onto a terrace and overlooks a large swimming pool, plus the manicured fruit and vegetable garden, which provides ingredients for dishes such as juicy pork cooked on the josper grill, and fresh salads garnished with herbs grown on-site.

Some guests will choose to take advantage of the property’s wellness programmes, which can range from sleep assistance to fitness, and there are dedicated menu options for each choice. Even breakfast, which can often be generic in hotels, is a treat, with fresh and varied options each day, ranging from grilled vegetable omelettes to chocolate and homemade almond butter porridge.

The spa

Six Senses makes wellness a pillar of the brand, which means high expectations from guests in any of their hotels. Of course, the Douro offering doesn’t disappoint; a huge space with 10 treatment rooms looks onto the garden, and there's an indoor pool with jets, an ice bath and jacuzzi, plus saunas and steam rooms.

Treatments use a variety of bespoke concoctions: homemade sugar scrubs and wraps with citrus fruit from the garden, schist hot-stone massages and almond-oil body soothers that smell good enough to eat. Along with classic massages and facials, the hotel offers a range of other smart technology to help with skin analysis, wellness screening and sleep programmes – and for those really invested in trying something new, biohacking uses compression therapy, pain relief and more to help your body feel its best.

The yoga pavilion and Pilates studio are great additions, but what sets this hotel apart from other weekend escapes is the holistic atmosphere. The healing doesn't stop at the spa. Guests can go out into the woods of tall blue cedars and pines that surround it and find meditation pods hanging from branches. Or explore the river on kayaks. Or just lie by the pool and soak up the splendour of it all.

The neighbourhood

You don’t go to Douro Valley for bustling cities, restaurants and shops, but for a sense of calm and awe at the world’s beauty. Six Senses has captured that feeling, and almost everything here centres around the undeniable wonder of the area. Aside from an almost 360-degree view of the river and surrounding vineyards, the woodland nearby is wonderful for those searching for a late afternoon walk. Guests can explore the on-site vineyards, or drive to nearby wineries to get a better sense of the Douro and what makes it so magnetising for many.

The service

Staff are mostly local, and have a deep knowledge and understanding of Northern Portugal and its history, traditions and beauty. Expect service to be relaxed, friendly and professional, and take the opportunity to find out more about the local area from those who know it best.

Eco effort

There’s no denying the Six Senses brand’s commitment to sustainability at its properties, and a hotel as nature-focused as this one considers its responsibility to give back to nature at the forefront of everything it does. The property works to protect and regenerate a 10-acre woodland on the property and invests money into local communities and projects, including social funding for families and animal rearing.

Guests at the hotel can experience some of the work the brand does at the on-site Earth Lab, where they can learn how to pickle vegetables from the garden or create their favourite infusion. Those familiar with the Six Senses brand will likely know of the ‘Alchemy Bar’ concept, which originated in Douro and invites guests to make their own beauty and wellness products – such as bath salts or body lotions – using natural ingredients grown on-site.

For families

A hotel with a heavy emphasis on relaxation and wine isn’t necessarily made for children, although kids are well catered for, thanks to a wide range of activities, such as tile painting and kayaking, designed to keep them entertained. In summer, the stunning outdoor pool makes for a wonderful place for the whole family to spend an afternoon.

Anything else left to mention?

For those travelling from the UK, it’s easier than expected to tag a Douro trip onto the end of a weekend in Porto. A picturesque two-hour train ride from the beautiful São Bento station, the wine region is surprisingly accessible. Six Senses is a short drive from Régua station, so even those without a car can experience the wonder of the area.