A Brief History of Phoenix
By Jon Talton
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About this ebook
Jon Talton
Jon Talton is a fourth-generation Arizonan who grew up in the same neighbourhood that Mapstone calls home. He is the author of nine novels, including the Mapstone mysteries, The Pain Nurse and Deadline Man.
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Reviews for A Brief History of Phoenix
2 ratings1 review
- Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5In this information-packed little volume, Jon Talton proves that those who say Phoenix has no history don't know what they're talking about. The land Phoenix is built on was once occupied by the most advanced pre-Columbian irrigation society. In 1950, it ranked 99th on the list of the largest cities in the United States. Today it is number six. It takes some history for a hot little desert town to shoot up the charts like that, and fourth-generation Arizonan Talton knows where the tastiest bones are buried.From how its first white settlers turned Phoenix into an agricultural mecca to visits from such "luminaries" as Al Capone to when the bubble burst in 2007, this is a balanced account of Phoenix's history. Talton tells it in such a manner that I wish the book was ten times longer, but at least his bibliography has plenty of sources so that I can learn more.In many ways, this is the perfect accompaniment to the author's David Mapstone mysteries. In those Talton shares tantalizing bits of Phoenix history, so reading this was definitely a pleasurable learning experience.
Book preview
A Brief History of Phoenix - Jon Talton
Anglos.
Introduction
SO BIG
In 2006, the census bureau reported that Phoenix had overtaken Philadelphia to become the nation’s fifth most populous city.
This was quite an accomplishment for a place that had barely entered the ranks of the one hundred largest cities in 1950, at number ninety-nine. Other American cities, such as Chicago in the late nineteenth century, had grown faster. But none was in such a hostile environment and isolated location. None among the very biggest was so relatively young. Phoenix was settled in the late 1860s but didn’t become what would be considered a big city until 1960, when its population was 439,170 and it ranked number twenty-nine. The only one close was Oklahoma City, settled in 1889 and, thanks to its oil boom, a sizable city three decades earlier than Phoenix. But by 1960, Oklahoma City ranked only thirty-seventh in population. When the census made its 2006 estimate, Phoenix was about three times the size of its nearest cousin among young cities.
Some say that all Phoenix ever wanted was to get big. While an oversimplification, the statement carried some truth. Generations of Phoenix boosters, builders and visionaries imagined that a tiny farm town would become a large and great metropolis. Especially in the decades after World War II, the city became obsessed with population numbers to the exclusion of almost all other measurements. And they had always continued to grow. Census numbers, whether estimates or the hard data every decade, had a talisman quality. This was not merely because they determined the amount of federal money that would flow to the city. More importantly, they validated the city’s seeming perpetual motion machine where growth not only appeared to pay for itself but also was a feedback loop of prosperity. More than 100,000 people arriving every year to the metropolitan area provided seemingly indisputable validation.
For a moment, even some hardened local skeptics had a difficult time denying the success. America’s largest cities were New York, Los Angeles, Chicago, Houston and now Phoenix. For members of the city’s business and political elite, the moment carried a sense of inevitability. This was certainly the mood among a delegation of Phoenix leaders invited to the City of Brotherly Love, where they were greeted generously and with no small amount of envy. Phoenix was, the Philadelphians gushed, so new and clean, its government businesslike and efficient and the economic wind was at its back. None of the guests disagreed, for the essential characteristic of Phoenicians is optimism, where the future is always a rising path.
The reality was more complex. Indeed, the gathering economic bubble and Great Recession would shatter Phoenix, sending it into its worst times since the 1890s. But that was a couple years away and only a relatively few people saw it coming, much less dared to warn others about it.
Also, aside from a few familiar metropolises, the list of top ten cities had been remarkably fluid. In 1900, when only three American cities boasted populations of more than one million, Boston had been number five. Three decades later, the spot had been seized by Los Angeles and, by 1950, Detroit. When Phoenix reached the ranks of the biggest ten, former members had fallen far: Buffalo, Cincinnati, St. Louis—the Phoenix suburb of Mesa had more people than these cities. Nor did population alone provide a particularly complete or useful guide to a city’s fortunes or livability. Phoenix’s boosters were undaunted, anticipating the time before Houston fell behind the juggernaut in the Sonoran Desert. Almost all plans seemed predicated on a doubling of the metropolis’s population within a few short decades.
This shining moment was somewhat dampened by the reaction of many people around the country. Phoenix? The nation’s fifth largest city? You can’t be serious.
Most people outside Arizona knew Phoenix as a vacation spot with sun-bathed resorts, baseball spring training and golf; a retirement mecca, one of the many beneficiaries of the great Sun Belt migration; the home of Barry Goldwater and one of the birthplaces of modern conservative politics. In recent years, it has gained notoriety for spectacular images of giant dust storms descending on the city, a timeless part of the region’s monsoon season but new to most television viewers nationally—and with the exotic name haboob
attached (a word most Phoenicians didn’t use in the past). Most Americans didn’t realize how enormous Phoenix had become, with 1.5 million people in more than five hundred square miles. And this was only within the city limits. Surrounding Phoenix were highly populated suburbs—boomburbs, supersuburbs, edge cities—that had the metropolitan population headed toward 4 million. Still, when I would mention these numbers to friends who lived elsewhere, they would invariably say, I had no idea Phoenix was so big.
By the 2010 census, Philadelphia had grown just enough, and Phoenix’s growth had slowed just enough, that the two reversed positions for the moment. Phoenix was the sixth largest city in America. Even so, when I tell this to many people around the country, they are still incredulous that Phoenix is even number six—ahead of San Antonio, San Diego, Dallas and San Jose. It was the center of the nation’s thirteenth-largest metropolitan area and seat of its fourth most populous county.
Explaining how and why Phoenix became so big is one of the goals of this book. In addition, it is intended as a concise corrective for many Phoenicians who say the place has no history.
For hundreds of thousands of newcomers who move there yet still consider home
back in the midwest, it might even seem that way. They buy houses in new developments on the metropolitan fringes, shop at sparkling malls and speed along an extensive freeway system. While they might dabble in some of the cowboy lore of Arizona, they know next to nothing about the city’s past. This lack of knowledge is supercharged by population churn: large numbers of people come to Phoenix, but large numbers also depart. What does such a transient city have to teach?
Yet Faulkner’s The past is never dead. It’s not even past
could have been custom written for Phoenix. For all the patina of ultramodernity in a postcard desert setting, this is a place with a rich and compelling past. Understanding Phoenix’s present, including how its challenges are of profound importance to the entire nation, requires grappling with its plentiful and conflicted past.
Phoenix is one of the great accomplishments of American civilization. Beyond that, we must navigate extreme paradox. While it is our newest major metropolis, it is built atop the ruins of a once-populous area of prehistoric settlement. One would not be stretching the facts much to say Phoenix is America’s youngest and oldest city, and the contradictions don’t stop there. For all the self-image of rugged individualism and criticism of big government, Phoenix owes its life to both collective effort and federal investment. Phoenix faces serious water challenges but has plenty of water. It is a city of clean slates and fresh starts yet also imposes subtle but real restraints and has a background of injustice, exclusion and corruption. It is an oasis in an arid wilderness, nature apparently harnessed for human bidding and yet in reality dangerously untamed. Phoenix is ambitious and lazy, visionary and prone to the short hustle, on the leading edge and embarrassingly behind, an open book and yet very hard to read. All this, and Phoenix is now so big.
Here is how it happened.
Chapter 1
REBORN
When John William Swilling was born in 1830, the future site of Phoenix was two thousand miles away, deep inside Mexico in a forbidding and mysterious wilderness.
The Coronado expedition of 1540–42 had swung far to the east. Father Eusebio Kino had established the San Javier del Bac mission, about 125 miles south, in 1700. Spanish soldiers under command of the Irishman Hugh O’Conor had built a presidio, or fort, that came to be named Tucson seventy-five years later. But this was as far as the Spanish, and later the Mexicans, dared go. Their sometime allies, the Pima and Maricopa, occupied farming villages on the Gila River, slightly south of the present-day Phoenix metropolitan area, but they faced periodic attacks by Apaches who controlled most of the territory farther north.
Swilling, the man most responsible for founding Phoenix, came into this world on a plantation in Anderson County, South Carolina. His father, George Washington Swilling, managed the property and eventually came to own it. The family moved to Georgia when John, who went by Jack, was fourteen. Many, although by no means all, Anglo Americans were beginning to embrace Manifest Destiny, the belief that the United States was providentially ordained to control the continent from the Atlantic to the Pacific.
Carrying this out would require the peaceful submission by, or violent conquest of, hundreds of native tribes. America’s continental empire of liberty also co-existed with a republic of bondage, where millions of Africans were enslaved in twelve slave states, half the Union. Even the free states prospered from slave-picked cotton, the foundation of the northeast’s textile industry and the nation’s most valuable export.
Both Manifest Destiny and the South’s desire to extend slavery led to the Mexican War. Seventeen-year-old Jack Swilling enlisted in a unit of Georgia volunteers that fought in this deeply divisive conflict. The United States victory brought a huge cession of land from Mexico, including most of today’s Arizona. The Gadsden Purchase of 1853 added southern Arizona below the Gila and a piece of southwest New Mexico. Again, it was a move driven by southern interests, especially Secretary of War (and future Confederate president) Jefferson Davis. The South insisted on its own southern transcontinental railroad route.
By the late 1850s, Swilling was in Arizona (which at the time was part of New Mexico territory), working as an Indian fighter and prospector, where he made several important gold discoveries. The historian Daniel Walker Howe wrote of the era: This was not a relaxed, hedonistic, refined or indulgent society…The man who got ahead in primitive conditions did so by means of innate ability, hard work, luck and sheer will power.
It was even truer of the Anglos making inroads in Arizona, in the mineral rich north-central highlands around the future Prescott and in Tucson. Howe could have been writing about Swilling.
When the Civil War came, the Confederacy established Arizona Territory in the southern half of Arizona/New Mexico. Not surprisingly, Swilling joined the Confederate Arizona Guards militia and was elected first lieutenant, the second in command. After Union forces defeated the Rebels and