The watch world has never been so unpredictable – Rolex dropping emoji date windows? Richard Mille’s candy coloured lexes? Pixellated dials? Rather than leaning on the archive, watchmakers are embracing an influx of fresh ideas and targeting a younger collector. And that “why the fuck not?” mentality has birthed some insanely covetable pieces. Introducing the 25 coolest watches of 2023.
Omega X Swatch Moonswatch Moonshine 42mm
At 18 months and counting, come rain or shine, the queues are still very real for this quartz internet-breaker. This one has pink Super-LumiNova detailing – a nod to the pink full moon of April. £250. At swatch.com
Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen The 8000 42mm
The ability to withstand fogging and oxidisation at the summit of the Alps is not something we knew we needed in a watch. But Montblanc’s latest is bringing out the mountaineer in us, with a titanium case it claims to be totally devoid of oxygen. £6,200. At montblanc.com
Tudor Black Bay 54
Why splurge six digits on a dial when you can drop four on the most highly regarded watch of 2023? Nodding to yesteryear, the 37mm case holds an MT5400 calibre and a depth of 200m – dive right in. £3,200. At tudorwatch.com
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 39mm
Ryan Gosling attempted to steal a Carrera in the brand’s recent viral ad; in the case of its new 60th anniversary tribute, complete with an automatic chrono and an 80-hour power reserve, we can empathise. £5,600. At tagheuer.com
Grand Seiko Majestic White Birch Platinum Spring Drive 38.5mm
Grand Seiko, now a separate, luxury-leaning arm of Japanese brand Seiko, produces artisanal creations to match the world’s best, and this particular masterpiece boasts a manual Spring Drive Calibre 9R02 that keeps ticking for days. £67,450. At grand-seiko.com
IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Automatic Aqua Dial 40mm
Using the shape of the all-new stainless steel Ingenieur, IWC brings an oldie-but-goodie out of retirement with a refreshed aqua dial that’s destined to conquer the zeitgeist. £10,500. At iwc.com
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT 44mm
Taking bets on who’ll be first to be seen courtside sporting AP’s hautest new GMT tourby? Our money’s on celebrity collectors queuing for the brand’s tasty new 44mm titanium grail. Price upon request. At audemarspiguet.com
Patek Philippe Calatrava 6119G 39mm
There’s a hot new Patek in town, and Calatrava connoisseurs are eating up the charcoal-grey dial. What’s housed inside that crisp white-gold case? A brand-new hand-wound movement that makes it an immediate addition to every collector’s cop list. £25,720. At patek.com
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Celebration 41mm
The poppy, bubble-filled aesthetic of this new Rolex – a model the watch world thought had been discontinued – feels almost perfectly targeted at West Ham fans, but is equally suited to any occasion. £5,400. At rolex.com
Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Shades Co-Axial Master Chronometer 38mm
Throwing new shades on a 38mm GOAT is bound to steal horological hearts. Especially when there’s a lacquered bay-green dial in the picture. £6,100. At goldsmiths.co.uk
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 45mm
The 70th anniversary of the OG divers’ watch – hat tip to the 300m water-resistance and date window – is as essential for your dive holiday as your wetsuit and snorkel. £14,600. blancpain.com
Orient Mechanical Classic Watch 38.4mm
For the Japanese fine watchmakers, simplicity is a trademark of genius. A domed glass face, enveloped in a steel case, shines the spotlight on Roman numeral indices in six positions. Simple. Genius. £310. orientwatch.co.uk
Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni E 45mm
E is for: ever thought recycling could look so good? Grails are going green with Panerai’s 45mm Italian stallion watch made from Brunito steel, or e-steel, which is 98.6 per cent recycled material. £8,400. At panerai.com
Hermès H08 39mm
An Hermès hallmark alongside the Birkin and the Kelly since 2021, the H08’s unique shape has carved out a new-age cult following for itself. The chunky rubber strap makes it feel sporty and sleek all at once. £6,090. At hermes.com
Gucci 25H Tourbillon 40mm
Gucci has been making Swiss watches for 51 years, and haute horology for 3, and the 25H collection is a cult favourite. This 18-carat gold number packs a gorgeous tourbillon movement into a crazily slim 40mm case. Price upon request. At gucci.com
Chanel J12 Cybernetic 38mm
The pixellated, Tron-era aesthetic of Chanel’s new Cybernetic feels like it’s been ripped from (or to) the metaverse – but trust us, the sapphire crystal bezel and ceramic-steel case has to be seen IRL. £12,200. At chanel.com
Bremont Jaguar C-Type 43mm
Much like Bagheera in Rudyard Kipling’s seminal hit, Bremont’s jibe at the Jag will provide you with a friend and accomplice – but this one has a bi-directional rotating tachymeter and scratch-resistant case too. £5,695. At bremont.com
Alpina ALPINER Extreme Automatic 41mm
Explorers have inspired a lot of watches over the years, and Alpina’s new adventurer hits the spot again. Plus, there’s a 36-hour power reserve in case you get stranded. £1,750. At jurawatches.co.uk
Zenith Pilot Automatic Steel 40mm
Zenith holds a legitimate claim to being at the forefront of pilot watches and with a steel case, oversized crown and black corrugated dial, this clean new-era model does its rich aviation history proud. £6,700. At zenith-watches.com
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds
The Jekyll and Hyde of the watch world, this reversible must-have is ready to match your mood – and it’s never been better than its new iteration in a slender 7.56mm case. £21,900. At jaeger-lecoultre.com
Gerald Charles GC Sport Clay
Watchmaking deity Gérald Genta simply can’t stop giving, even beyond the grave. Cue another game-changing dial shape with Maestro edges, this time with a sporty number in sepia shades and lightweight titanium. £14,300. At geraldcharles.com
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin 41.5mm
Who do we need to speak to about a 2024 wall calendar in honour of this new VC? It’s just 8.1 millimetres thick, and it’ll show you the correct date until 2100. Museum-worthy. £98,500. At vacheron-constantin.com
Cartier Privé Tank Normale
Trust the discreet maison of Cartier to downplay the seismic launch of this beautiful boxy bezel, with a cabochon on the winding crown and bevelled sapphire crystal. Normale?
We think not. £29,700. At cartier.com
Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph 42mm
Breitling has always had serious game in the air, but the original Premier from 1943 turned pilot watches from functional workhorses to style icons. The new cream-dialled version only enhances its reputation. £7,150. At jurawatches.co.uk
Richard Mille RM 07-04 Automatic Winding Sport
Still pining for anything Succession-related? Feed the lust with Jeremy Strong’s favourite new bit of wrist candy, featuring a skeletonised automatic winding movement with hours, minutes and function selector. Absolutely ones of the coolest watches of the year. Price upon request. At richardmille.com
Photographs by Thomas Brown
Styling by Angelo Mitakos
