Men, like shirts, come in many shapes and sizes. But matching a shirt to your particular shape and size is a bit of a lottery. If you have a fat neck (or “ample” as I call it), any shirt you buy off the peg will be so bilious you could pitch it up to sleep four at Glastonbury. And even if you can find something fitted to your liking, the length of the arms could leave you looking like an orangutan. In my frustration I decided to invest in some made-to-measure shirts. What was the point of having a beautiful suit if you can’t combine them with shirts of equal quality?
At Scabal, at 12 Savile Row, I was taken through a huge range of options followed by a full fitting, with the express aim of ending my shirt-related angst. I was measured up and we discussed how the shirt would sit on me, including how long it ran down, how tailored it would be around the waist and how the collar could complement my suits.
The fabric books (one of the store’s historic strengths) were opened to reveal formal standards and something for the more adventurous, plus a rainbow of colours and textures. Classic designs and colours are (obviously) more adaptable to different occasions and will give you more for your money. But you also need to think about weight and breathability and if you are looking for something to work in warm or winter weather. The range extends all the way up to super-fine luxury and cashmere blends.
I wanted formal shirts that I could wear all the time and give me the comfort and style I could not find with even the best off-the-peg offerings – so I opted for a fine herringbone classic white and a thicker sky-blue cotton twill.
The details are the really fun part of the process. There were 15 collar options – wider for broader men and thinner for the slighter man. Scabal collars are sewed, not glued, which makes them more flexible and breathable. “Every element needs to work together from a visual point of view,” says Tom from Scabal. “We want the best fit but also the combination to go with a suit, like a piece of the puzzle.” You can choose from a range of buttons and cuffs (which take into account your watch). The finishing touch is the guilty pleasure of your initials in a single discreet location. Handy if you forget your own name.
Made-to-measure shirts are a gift that just can’t fail. How could you not want something that makes you look and feel better at the same time? And so, at last, I can fasten my top button and actually breathe – and I don’t look like I’m wearing a parachute either.
From £240. scabal.com
