“Ultimately, grail watches hold personal meaning, align with your tastes, and bring you enduring joy and satisfaction,” explains Balazs Ferenczi, Chrono24’s watch expert. “They can be either something to work towards or more easily within reach, depending on personal preference. It's subjective – some like a challenge, while others prefer a more achievable goal."
Most of us who like watches have our version of this in mind, but for added inspiration, we thought it'd be fun to reach out to the world's leading experts to ask them what their most desired watches are.
Of the 70 tastemakers who submitted their top fives, in total, 48 different watchmakers were put forward, with Naoya Hida, Laurent Ferrier, Urban Jurgensen, Urwerk, Parmigiani Fleurier and Grönefeld some of the more obscure choices. And although Rolex, Patek Philippe, Cartier, Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin dominated a lot of people's lists, when it came down to specific models and references, there was surprisingly little crossover across the board.
“There's been a noticeable shift in recent years regarding what people consider as their ultimate grail watch,” says Ferenczi, confirming that many people are moving away from traditional luxury brands. “Instead, they're exploring independent watchmakers or microbrands, seeking uniqueness, craftsmanship, and stories behind lesser-known brands. This shift reflects a growing appreciation for individuality, exclusivity, and the desire to own something less mainstream or mass-produced in the world of horology.”
To display the results we decided to break them all down into categories so that you got more bang for your buck in the insights stakes. Watch editor at I-M Intelligent Magazine Andrew Hildreth was on hand to help collate the lists and do the numbers, and we asked the experts who had chosen our top grails to share some insights into why that watch was one for them.
So without further ado, presenting the grail watches that are most popular among our experts.
Top 5 grail watches (by specific name)
Notable mentions to…
Top 10 grail watches (by general name)
Top 5 grails from independent watchmakers
Top 5 Chronographs
Top 5 Tourbillons
Ranking all the brands
Top 5 Rolex grail watches
Top 5 Patek Philippe grail watches
It was close but these are the outright top five specific models that were the most popular among our experts. Perhaps most interesting is that two of the five have had new versions created in the past 18 months, which could explain why they are at the top of people's minds.
5. Vacheron Constantin 222 ref. 4200H/222J-B935
“A history-rich timepiece with a contemporary edge, confidently claims grail status. It’s not just about telling time; it’s about narrating enduring style. With elegance and timeless allure, this watch spins a tale woven with a versatile spirit, ensuring its eternal relevance in the world of horology.” Ash Longet
4. Rolex “Newman” Daytona ref. 6263
“The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref 6263 has it all. Black bezel surround, big red Daytona dial and contrasting coloured subsidiary dials, popping in either black or silver combinations. It’s the epitome of the Rolex legacy and oozes style whether worn by a man or a woman.” David Silver
3. Patek Philippe Grand Complication ref. 2499P
There were specifics, even with this level of exactitude with what determines a “true” grail watch. Within the individuals listing the Patek Philippe ref. 2499, some went further and specified that it had to be the one once owned by Eric Clapton. There is a reason for that, it is one of only two made by the eponymous Geneva brand, with the other owned by the Stern family themselves.
“Especially in the first series incarnation with square pushers and tachymeter, it’s the single most iconic perp cal chrono [perpetual calendar chronograph] ever created and a demonstration of the Stern family and Patek’s mastery of complicated watches.” Wei Koh
“Simply put, in collector’s circles or with the auctioneers it’s easy to throw out a reference number by just saying “1675” or “15202” whereas out of respect for this specific timepiece there is always a “the” almost introducing the esteem of the watch, it’s never just the numbers when it’s discussed, which to me says it all.” JJ Owens
2. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 5402ST
“The 5402ST is the only version of the much-desired Royal Oak I remember the reference number of, and for good reason. Forget about ceramic versions, Offshores, and rose gold-bussed-up R.O.s. This is it. Designed in one night by Gerald Genta, achingly perfect with a restrained tapisserie dial that sparked a thousand homages. Its delicate baton hands seem almost too perfectly proportioned within the dial of this 1972 debut. At the time, it presented the alien notion of steel luxury chic.” Thor Svaboe
“The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 5402ST earns its grail status through a perfect fusion of iconic design and masterful craftsmanship. Its revolutionary octagonal case and stainless steel construction redefine luxury, symbolising timeless elegance and pioneering horology.” Irina Ciobanu
1. Cartier Crash London
"The Crash is as much art as it is horology. It both stands the test of time as well as defines it. It quickly reached grail status because it intersects many different types of collectors, as it's a feat of watchmaking, jewellery, art and design. It’s instantly recognisable, highly coveted, and undeniably grail worthy!" Lydia Winters
“Not to be basic but… the vintage yellow gold Cartier Crash London dial is my holy grail.” Brynn Wallner
These nine models were also called out several times. While we expected to see certain Rolex and Patek references, it is really interesting to see a couple of independent, supposedly lesser-known brands feature so regularly. For one in particular, it demonstrates the influence a certain famous singer has on horological trends.
Cartier Tank Cintrée
"The early jumbo Cintrée is perfect. The kind of perfect that only happens when a watch manages to be radical and discreet all at once. The elongated brancards take up the entire width of my wrist but the curvature is so elegant, and the watch so slim, that the statement is subtle. In my dream world I would own this watch along with a perfectly distressed vintage chocolate brown Kelly bag and a wardrobe full of Phoebe Philo zip trousers." Malaika Crawford
Rexhep Rexhepi Chronometre Contemporain
"No one who knows about watchmaking doubts the craftsmanship of the Chronometre Contemporain, but what some people don't realise – and what, in my opinion, makes the piece even more special – is that Rexhep works out of his small atelier in Geneva, crafting the majority of the parts by hand, while maintaining both the humility and grace of the living masters as well as a boyish appreciation for the life he's currently made for himself. That's part of the appeal." Barbara Palumbo
Rolex Submariner ref. 5513
“It’s the no date design icon, you can’t go wrong with a 5513. Tuxedo? Works. Jeans and a T-shirt? Fits perfect. Name me a more versatile watch, I don’t know of it.” Ted Gushue
"A classic dive watch with vintage charm. This timepiece holds a special place in the hearts of watch enthusiasts worldwide, and I believe it exemplifies the finest craftsmanship and design in the watch industry." Nicholas Isaacs
Patek Philippe Grand Complication ref. 1518
Vacheron Constantin 1921
Rolex Triple Calendar ref. 6062
Rolex Explorer ref. 1016
F.P. Journe Souverain
George Daniels Millennium
These are the most telling results of all, as they demonstrate more generally the thirst for watch models that have had all manner of iterations and updates over the years. This top 10 contains some real classic watches, many of which you'd expect to feature in a list like this. The fact four out of the ten are Rolex shows you the power of the Crown.
10. Vacheron Constantin 222 (6 votes)
“The launch of the 18k Vacheron Constantin 222 in spring of 2022 was a wake-up call to all collectors – Brad Pitt included – to look into this radical Jorg Hysek designed watch with lust in our eyes.” Kristian Haagan
8=. Rolex Explorer (7)
8=. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso (7)
"The JLC Tribute to 1931 is, for many enthusiasts, the top of the mountain when it comes to fairly recent Reverso models – it exemplifies the idea that simple is harder than complex, and it IS simply perfect. The slim, dress watch perfection of the case. The stubby sword hands and era correct font of REVERSO – and perhaps best of all, the biscuity tone of the indices, giving a nod to the 92 year old OG." Andrew McUtchen
6=. Patek Philippe Nautilus (9)
6=. Omega Speedmaster (9)
"The 310.30.42.50.01.001 is the best version of a standard Moonwatch Omega has made up to date. A case design that is based on the early Professional reference that went to the Moon, combined with Omega’s latest movement technology. A classic that just became better." RJ Broer
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5. Rolex Day-Date (13)
4. Rolex Submariner (14)
3. Rolex Daytona (16)
"Rolex has managed to keep its classic models, like the “Paul Newman” Daytona, coveted by collectors while also introducing new models that appeal to a modern audience. Rolex watches are versatile – equally suitable for formal events, professional settings, or casual outings. The Daytona is one of my favourite watches and vintage Rolex models overall. This year I found myself gravitating towards it more and really enjoy wearing it.” Paul Altieri
2. Cartier Crash (19)
“ANY Cartier Crash. This watch has been hyped HARD in the last few years – as has all things Cartier, and its star might not remain undimmed forever. But, in 2023, the Crash is the unmissable choice of the most serious collectors and the celebrities alike.” Felix Scholz
“I remember the first time I saw a Cartier Crash, it blew my mind. It reminded me instantly of the Dali painting ‘The persistence of Memory’. I love every version of the Crash, yellow or white gold, bespoke blue, with diamond-setting. But the Crash Tigrée Metamorphoses released in 2022 is my favourite version.” Camille Guille
1. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (24)
“The game changer for Audemars Piguet and the watch world in 1972, and again in recent years with all the hype for integrated bracelet designs. The current reference of this watch 16202, seems virtually unchanged, but it was the first 5402ST that shocked the watch industry. Not in the last place because of its hefty price tag. Just like today’s market value of about any Royal Oak.” RJ Broer
As Chrono24's Ferenczi mentioned earlier, more watch lovers are looking to invest in indie brands. Why? Aside from the fact it can be very difficult to get hold of watches from Rolex or Patek – the waitlists are legit – there is generally more information available for people to realise that there are more brands out there than just the big names.
5. Roger Smith Series 1
"True 'English' watchmaking has historically been regarded as the finest in the world. Roger Smith is possibly the only person who practises it today, creating some of the best and most covetable watches on the planet using the 'Daniels Method' learned from his mentor, the late George Daniels – another Englishman who was considered by many to be the greatest horologist of the 20th century.” Simon de Burton
4. George Daniels Millennium 18-karat yellow gold
3. Richard Mille RM009
"Richard Mille came to market with the by-line: A Racing Machine on the Wrist. But it was not until the RM009 that such an approach took true form, with a case made from an esoteric centrifugally created metal, a movement made from aluminium-lithium with cutaway elements, and everything unnecessary was pared back so the watch only weighs 28 grams. Only 25 were made, and it remains as much a grail watch today as it did in 2005 when it was released." Andrew Hildreth
2. Rexhep Rexhepi Chronometre Contemporain white dial
“It's incredible to see what the talented prodigy Rexhep Rexhepi has built with Akrivia in a few short years. While his brand has plenty of complicated pieces, it's the CC that has the combination of credibility, cachet and exceptional exclusivity that makes it the perfect Grail Watch.” Felix Scholz
1. F.P. Journe Élégante 40mm
“For me, the FP Journe Elegante is the perfect blend between heritage and modernity. It’s not a bad Neo-vintage design, it’s something of its own, from our time that will still look amazing in 30/50/70 years.” Maxime Couturier
Chronographs are one of the most sought-after watch type so unsurprisingly there were a lot of votes from our experts for their favourite car-inspired timepieces.
5. A Lange & Sohne Datograph 1st Generation
"One of the most gorgeous chronograph movements ever made, and took people by surprise when it was released at Baselworld 1999." Nick Gould
4. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph REF 5500V/110R-B952
3. TAG Heuer Monaco
“Well, on a personal level, I’ve always been a huge fan of Heuer. In particular the Monaco was always a watch that I had coveted. The design, the shape, the dial layout and colour was like nothing else I had ever seen. To think it launched in 1969 makes it all the more impressive. Add in the fact that calibre 11 was the first automatic chronograph caliber developed then it really gained grail status for me. Then to sprinkle in the magic of the Le Mans movie and the attachment to the King of Cool; Steve Macqueen association and it really becomes a watch of mystical stature.” Alan Bedwell
2. Omega Speedmaster "Snoopy" 45th Anniversary ref. 311.32.42.30.04.003
"It just makes you smile and, like a good friend, gives you a lift when you need it – from the luminous cartoon of Snoopy to the reminder ‘Failure is not an option’ and the ‘What could you do in 14 seconds?’ (referring to the Apollo 13 mission), not forgetting the silver medallion on the caseback that features ‘Eyes on the stars’. Why would you want anything else on your wrist?" Samantha Haizelden
1. Rolex Daytona 6239
Tourbillons are the most technical type of watches out there! So when it comes to choosing the most grail worthy ones, it seems the more complicated (and damn-right crazy) they are, the better.
5. Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1
4. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Tourbillon ref. 26735ST
3. Richard Mille RM 17-02 manual tourbillon
2. F.P. Journe Souscription Tourbillon
1. Haldiman H1
“The Haldimann brand is not built on clever marketing or novel ideas, but instead a legacy of true family watchmaking traditions. The H1’s effortless balance of mesmerising technicality and calm poise is unmatched. The classic case proportions, delicately elevated tourbillon and hands that seem like they’re levitating is simply art. I first discovered this watch back in 2008 and somehow, it still feels as desirable today. It’s rare piece that’s truly in a class of its own.” Adrian Aldred
To prove how wide-ranging our experts' tastes are, here is the overall ranking of all the brands that received votes.
32=. Voutilainen (1), Harry Winston (1), Konstantin Chaykin (1), Oris (1), Gerald Genta (1), Jacques Droz (1), Atelier de Chronometrie (1), Franck Muller (1), Universal Genève (1), Grönefeld (1), Chanel (1), Parmigiani Fleurier (1), Gucci (1), Naoya Hida (1), Swatch (1), Girard-Perregaux (1), Breguet (1)
25=. H Moser & Cie (2), Laurent Ferrer (2), Roger Smith (2), Tudor (2), IWC (2), Zenith (2), Haldimann (2).
22=. Urwerk (3), TAG Heuer (3), Blancpain (3)
14=. Philippe Dufour (4), Grand Seiko (4), Seiko (4), Greubel Forsey (4), Van Cleef & Arpels (4), George Daniels (4), Piaget (4), Hamilton (4)
13. MB&F (5)
12. Akrivia (6)
10=. Jaeger-LeCoultre (7), Richard Mille (7)
9. Bulgari (8)
8. A Lange & Söhne (10)
7. Omega (12)
6. F.P. Journe (18)
5. Vacheron Constantin (20)
4. Audemars Piguet (28)
3. Cartier (34)
2. Patek Philippe (54)
1. Rolex (68)
“It seems so bleedin’ obvious to head a grail list with Rolex and Patek, but I suppose that is their enduring power. Indeed, my pairing are no longer rolling off the production line and belong to bygone eras, Patek not long ago replacing its frankly perfect but irritatingly oversubscribed Ref 5711 Nautilus (none of the faddy tutti-frutti dial versions, thank you), and Rolex long since advancing the cause of its Submariner since that brief period in the late 1950s when it made the Submariner 5510. Either would do me.” Robin Swithinbank
These last two rankings are for the IYKYK crowd who care deeply about the exact order of things when it comes to Rolex and Patek – and which model gets overall bragging rights.
5. Explorer 1016
4. Oyster Perpetual 6062
3. Daytona 6239
2. Submariner 5513
1. Daytona 6263
5. Grand Complication Perpetual 3970
4. Calatrava 2526
3. Nautilus 5711
2. Grand Complication Perpetual 1518
1. Grand Complication Perpetual 2499
Shout out to all the experts who brought this ultimate grail watches list to life.
Zoe Abelson (@WatchGirlOffDuty)
Adrian Aldred, Convopiece
Paul Altieri, Bob’s Watches
Amandine (@watch_it_with_amandine)
Ahmet Aydın, Watchmania
Scarlett Baker, Man About Town
Adrian Barker, Bark and Jack
Alan Bedwell, Foundwell
Zach Blass, Time+Tide
Robert-Jan Broer, Fratello
Richard Brown, QP
Simon de Burton, Watchonista
Brodinkee
Andrea Casalegno, I am Casa
Mark Cho, The Armoury
Austin Chu, Wristcheck
Irina Ciobanu, Ladies Watch Club
Maxime Couturier, Heist Out
Malaika Crawford, Hodinkee
Johnny Davis, Esquire
Jessica Diamond, The Sunday Times
Alex Doak, City AM
James Dowling (@MisterRolex)
Tom Exton, TGE
Adrienne Faurote, Haute Living
Rachel Felder, New York Times
Marco Ferrante
Rachel Garrahan, British Vogue
Nick Gould (@Niccoloy)
Grail Watch Club
Mitch Greenblatt, Horolovox
Camile Guille (@PerpetualGirl)
Ted Gushue
Erik Gustafson, Hairspring
Kristian Haagen
Samantha Haizelden, Watch Concierge Services
Chris Hall, The Fourth Wheel
Andrew Hildreth, I-M Magazine
Nicholas Isaacs, Superwatchman
Nick Kenyon, Boss Hunting
Wei Koh, Revolution
Justin Hast, The Watch Annual
Ming Liu, Financial Times
Tracey Llewellyn, Telegraph
Ash Longet, Watchonista
Justin Mastine-Frost, Sharp Magazine
Laura McCreddie-Doak, Wired UK
Andrew McUtchen, Time+Tide
Giorgia Mondani
Mike Nouveau
Jessica 'JJ' Owens, Daily Grail Official
Barbara Palumbo (@WhatsOnHerWrist)
Kim Parker, Conde Nast Traveller
Eric Peng Cheng, Undefeated
Eleonor Picciotto, Revolution
Paige Reddinger Roessler, Robb Report
Gabe Reilly, Collective Horology
Finlay Renwick, Drake's Diary
Holly Ross, Vanity Fair on Time
Felix Scholz, OT: The Podcast
David Sharp, Scottish Watches
David Silver, Vintage Watch Company
Taylor Stoddard, watch expert
Thor Svaboe, Fratello
Robin Swithinbank, Business of Fashion
Alfie Tong, Mr Porter
Brynn Wallner, Dimepiece
Silas Walton, A Collected Man
Lydia Winters, watch expert
Image credits: special thanks to Chrono24 as well as A Collected Man, Sotheby's, Christie's, Collector Square, Maunder Watches, Watchfinder & Co, Watchtrader & Co and Phillips
