The chefs of Team USA worked side by side in open competition kitchens specially designed for them, their intensity evident as the spotlights glared above and the clock ticked down to their deadline.
When winners of this international chef competition were announced, that scene of hushed rigor was placed by a surge of emotion from the chefs and their supporters, straining against the rope barriers, waving national flags, clanking cowbells, honking air horns and cheering their hearts out.
This was a qualifying round for Bocuse d’Or. It’s called the Olympics of cuisine, the World Cup for chefs, and the metaphors were manifest in real life as the competition went down inside the Ernest N. Morial Convention Center this week.
Along with the related Pastry World Cup, teams from around the world compete to advance to the finals, held in Lyon, France, every other year, with the next coming up in January. New Orleans hosted the selections for teams from North America and South America.
Team USA took the gold medal and will continue its campaign for the ultimate Bocuse d’Or prize, along with teams from Canada (silver), Mexico (bronze) and wild card qualifiers Chile and Colombia.
Returning to New Orleans?
Bocuse d’Or and the Pastry World Cup are considered the most prestigious competitions at the highest level of modern global cuisine. It's food as art and national pride, and it's followed obsessively by chefs and food aficionados around the world. This year marked the first time any round was held in North America, with New Orleans as host city.
There are early signs now that New Orleans could host again when continental-round qualifiers come around again in 2026.
Bocuse d’Or officials announced their intent to do just that during a party for chefs and guests at the home of local attorney John Houghtaling. Details and contracts to bring the event back haven’t been made yet. But the announcement was a promising sign after the city and its hospitality community rolled out the red carpet for their international culinary guests.
The week of events served as a curtain-raiser for what could be possible if the international culinary connection through New Orleans grows with these events.
The competition brought many high-level chefs to town, both as contenders and supporters of the Bocuse d’Or campaign. For some, meeting star chefs like Thomas Keller and Daniel Boulud in New Orleans was akin to spotting Mick Jagger in town during Jazz Fest. Many of these visiting chefs were effusive in their praise for the city.
“We’ve been trying to get Bocuse d’Or to the U.S. for a very long time,” said Jerome Bocuse, president of the competition, during a reception for chefs held at Mardi Gras World.
“This city has a soul you don’t find in the entire United States, and I couldn’t imagine a better place for us,” he said.
Global competition, exposure
Bocuse is a chef and the son of the competition’s namesake and creator, Paul Bocuse, known as the father of modern French cuisine. He started the Bocuse d’Or in 1987 to bring global cuisine to his hometown, Lyon, the culinary capital of France, and create the world’s most rigorous culinary competition.
Today, teams representing 60 countries vie for spots in the final competition, with 24 teams worldwide selected to advance through qualifier rounds like the one held in New Orleans.
Landing America’s first official Bocuse d’Or event in New Orleans was a major accomplishment. Local chefs in attendance called it an inspiration, watching pros at the peak of their profession at work here, while hospitality leaders said the event was an endorsement of New Orleans as a culinary capital.
Walt Leger III, president and CEO of the tourism marketing agency New Orleans & Co., said it was part of showcasing the city and its modern culinary culture on a global stage.
'Very impressive'
For the event's French organizers, one aim of the competition was also to boost awareness of Bocuse d’Or and the level of achievement it represents on this side of the ocean.
“Bocuse d’Or is not that well known in this part of the world, but that’s why we’re here. The purpose is to raise its profile here,” said Florent Suplisson, the director of Bocuse d'Or.
He too was pleased with the decision to come to New Orleans.
“New Orleans to me is very impressive, the mix of cultures, it does something important for gastronomy, and to me gastronomy is culture,” Suplisson said. “It’s specific to the U.S. and it’s different here in New Orleans. I love that.”