Our “Eating with Ian” series continues with an inside look at one of my favorite New Orleans restaurants, Clancy’s.

Tucked deep into its Uptown neighborhood, it's beloved by its regulars and can feel like a real find for newcomers.

Start at the bar where Garth Swanson has been making textbook Sazeracs and other classics for decades.

Join Ian McNulty as he takes a look at the dishes made at Clancy's in Uptown New Orleans.

This restaurant is a picture of modern Creole flavor and consistency, maintained by executive chef Jerry Harkins Jr. He's been on the staff here since 2002.

I wanted to see how some Clancy’s signatures come together, so Jerry started with the fried oysters and brie. Cheese and seafood doesn’t sound like it should work, but the gooey brie melting over the crunchy edges of the oysters with just a bit of spinach to cut through is an absolutely perfect bite.

Another legendary dish at Clancy's is the soft shell crab. It’s gently smoked, then fried with the claws dangled in first, so every bit gets that crunch. The sauce is a quick meunière loaded with more lump crab meat. When this dish hits the table, the flavors of fried crab and sautéed crab, and that gentle hint of smoke make it irresistible.

Lemon icebox pie is singing with cool, tart flavor to wrap another great meal at Clancy’s.

The character of this restaurant is key ingredient. It’s an upscale restaurant with the soul of a neighborhood joint. I even met a neighborhood dog who drops by daily for a treat at the door on his afternoon walk. I love that.

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Email Ian McNulty at [email protected].

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