Polynucleotides: The Latest Aesthetic Treatment You Need to Know About

There's a new injectable on the market which looks set to change the face of aesthetics forever: Polynucleotides. When it comes to tweakments I have always stood on the side of caution, avoiding Botox and fillers, preferring to use targeted skincare like retinol and vitamin C to fight signs of aging and uneven skin tone. However, the latest wave of skin boosters, polynucleotides, has got me reconsidering my position.

Searches for this particular skin booster have risen by over 1000% according to Google and, as with all new beauty trends, TikTok is also starting to catch on with over two million views for the hashtag. It is rumoured that this is the secret to Jennifer Aniston's youthful skin appearance and Kim Kardashian has raved about them on the latest episodes of Keeping Up With The Kardashians. But what is it exactly and what can it do? Read on to find out.

Dr Ashwin Soni is a plastic and reconstructive surgeon at Sonic Clinic

Dr Freya Bakko is a plastic surgery trainee with a specialist interest in facial aesthetics.

Miriam Adebibe is a UK-trained surgical doctor with over 15 years experience.

Polynucleotides, are a protein-based bio-stimulator usually made from salmon, which work by changing the skin's DNA. The changes boost collagen and elastin production by up-regulating the fibroblast cells, as well as improving tissue regeneration and restoring skin tone and elasticity. It also has an antioxidant and hydrating effect in addition to the bio-remodelling, therefore resulting in skin that looks and feels healthier.

"It is an exciting time in the aesthetic industry," says Dr Ashwin Soni, a plastic and reconstructive surgeon, when asked about this latest injectable treatment that kickstarts regeneration in the skin. "The innovation behind it is incredible. It is a natural way to improve our skin and tissues on a cellular level"

Dr Freya Bakko at Scin Aesthetics based in Urban Retreat City agrees. "I'm seeing incredible results with this treatment for my clients," she tells PS UK. "The most important difference is it doesn't change the structure of the face, the same way fillers and botox can."

The technology is so clever because it doesn't simply insert anything to the skin, like Profhilo (a form of hyaluronic acid) or fillers that add volume and structure. The science behind the ingredient, however, is not new, it has been used in regenerative medicine for many years and are now crossing over into aesthetics. Instead, it works on a molecular level, improving the health of the deeper layers of the epidermis.

"Polynucleotides work by regenerating skin on a cellular level," explains Dr Miriam Adebibe. "Using replicating therapy, the treatment disperses DNA fragments across the entire face, to then be absorbed into the cells of the skin. These cells use a messenger system to communicate with your body's own DNA and encourage it to regenerate both skin and fat cells."

Classed as a regenerative injectable, derived from either cod or salmon DNA, it stimulates your own body to produce different cells to support cell turnover and elasticity. The injections can be targeted to specific areas of concern whereas Profhilo, and other skin boosters, are designed to treat very specific areas with five designated points on the face. This means the quality and appearance of the skin improves without creating physical hollowness, or preventing movement like Botox, so the results are far more natural-looking as it is your skin, but better.

One of the most popular treatments is the eye area. Over the last few years, the demand for tear trough treatment has increased considerably with many of us looking to brighten and improve our under eye appearance. However, filler is not always suitable for everyone.

When it comes to the benefits, patients should expect to see an improvement in skin elasticity, increased hydration, a brighter complexion and a reduction in fine lines and dark hollows. "It's ideal for use under the eyes for those who don't want filler but are looking to replace lost volume," says Dr Adebibe. "Think of it as replicating your own body, but better."

According to Dr Bakko, it can be really beneficial for pigmentation and scarring. "It really helps to improve skin texture and helps diminish melasma as it works by speeding up your skin's natural regeneration," she explains. "It is not for those looking to fill hollow areas or alter the shape, and although it can be used for preventative I would personally this is far more effective in treating concerns. In terms of preventative injectables profhlio is a far better option."

Prices for this vary from clinic to clinic, starting from around £250 per treatment and it is recommended you will need a couple of treatments to see a real benefit. However, unlike Botox, the best results are seen after a couple of weeks and continue to improve for up to three months. The results should last for up to a year, and then it is recommended to have maintenance treatments every six to nine months, so it is more of a long-term strategy than some other skin boosters.

Although I am still on the fence about going down the injectable route, this option is far more appealing to me as I've always maintained positive ageing as a mantra and never want to try and hide my natural texture, laughter lines and crows' feet. However, if I could help my skin from the inside then why not?

Lauren Ezekiel is an associate editor at PS UK, where she writes about all things beauty and wellness. With a degree in journalism and 12 years' experience as a beauty editor at a leading Sunday supplement, she is obsessed with skincare, hair and makeup, and is often found offering advice to innocent bystanders. Her work has been published in Grazia, OK, Health and Beauty, The Sun, ASDA, Dare and Metro.