![Saplunara beach](/https/www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/Travel/2020/January/CROP-Saplunara-beach-iStock.jpg?imwidth=680)
Beyond Dubrovnik: The secret seasides of the Adriatic
![Saplunara beach](/https/www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/Travel/2020/January/CROP-Saplunara-beach-iStock.jpg?imwidth=680)
Swerve the tourist hoards and explore the lesser-known corners of the Adriatic coast, writes Jane Foster
Slovenia
Mesečev Zaliv beach, Strunjan
Slovenia has just 29 miles of coastline, so the seaside resorts of Piran and Portorož can get busy. To escape the crowds, locals recommend Mesečev Zaliv (Moon Bay) within Strunjan Nature Park a two-mile stretch of protected coast, lying between Izola and Piran. This long curving pebble beach is backed by 80-metre high cliffs, made up of flysch (layers of crumbly sedimentary rock), giving onto limpid turquoise sea, perfect for swimming. Don't place your beach towel below the vertical cliffs, but choose a spot backed by the gentler slopes, covered by vegetation.
Rockslides do occur – in early 2020, following heavy rain, a section of the cliffs collapsed down onto the beach. The Strunjan Nature Park authorities regard the cliffs as "living sculpture", which change form naturally due to erosion (sea, wind and rain) – interventions such as protective nets are prohibited, giving nature precedence over man. Mesečev Zaliv is accessible by foot, following a signed path, and part of the beach is clothing-optional.
Nearest airport: Ljubljana, Slovenia
Base yourself at: Hotel Svoboda in Strunjan.
![Kamenjak Nature Park](/https/www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/Travel/2020/January/CROP-Kamenjak-Nature-Park-Getty.jpg?imwidth=350)
Croatia
Mala Kolombarica, Premantura peninsula, Pula, Istria
With entrancing sea views on three sides, Mala Kolombarica sits at the southernmost point of Istria, on the tip of Premantura peninsula. Lying within Kamenjak Nature Park, an oasis of pinewoods, marked trails and pebble coves, it has been saved from the ravages of development. Rather than a sandy beach, you'll find an impressive expanse of flat slabs of rocks, where you can spread a towel and sunbathe, before taking a dip in the glistening Adriatic. For drinks and snacks, you have Safari beach bar, hidden amid a bamboo grove above the rocks, and nearby activities include wind-surfing, kayaking, SUP's and cycling. Premantura peninsula lies six miles south of Pula city centre.
Nearest airport: Pula, Croatia
Base yourself at: Park Plaza Histria Hotel in Pula.
![cres](/https/www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/Travel/2020/January/CROP-Cres-town-2-istock.jpg?imwidth=350)
Sveti Ivan beach, Lubenice, Cres
Like many quieter beaches, Sveti Ivan (St John) on Cres preserves its lonesome dignity thanks to difficult access. The island itself remains the least developed in the Kvarner Gulf, and most visitors stay in pastel-coloured Cres Town. But if you head for the medieval clifftop village of Lubenice, on the west coast, you're in for a real treat. From here, a steep footpath leads down to the enchanting white pebble beach of Sveti Ivan (St John) – expect a 45-minute hike, wear decent walking shoes, be careful on slippery screen, and bring plenty of water.
In the next bay, south along the coast, you can swim into the Blue Cave, passing through a short dark sea tunnel, which opens into a magnificent cavern, bathed in azure light, at its most impressive during the early-afternoon. Note that excursion boats (from Cres Town and the mainland coast) will occasionally disrupt your reverie, though they seldom stay here long.
Nearest airport: Rijeka, Croatia
Base yourself at: Pansion Tramontana in Beli.
![divna beach](/https/www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/Travel/2020/January/CROP-Divna-beach-2-iStock.jpg?imwidth=350)
Divna beach, Pelješac peninsular, South Dalmatia
Northwest of Dubrovnik, mountainous Pelješac is famed for its lush vineyards, and the sunny seaside resort of Orebić, on the south coast. But on Pelješac's north coast, looking back across the Neretva Channel to the dramatic mountains of the Dalmatian mainland, you'll find the lovely beach of Divna (divna means "wonderful" in Croatian). Backed by a handful of houses and several tamarisk trees, offering natural shade, this 656ft stretch of fine pebbles gives onto stunning turquoise sea and a tiny islet.
There's a make-shift beach bar, and behind the houses, you have Divna Campsite, set in an olive grove. Divna lies six miles west of Trpanj, which is served by Jadrolinija ferry from Ploče on the mainland. Visit while it's still peaceful – 2022 will see the opening of the long-awaited Pelješac Bridge, a 7874ft cable-stayed bridge currently under construction.
Nearest airport: Dubrovnik, Croatia
Base yourself at: Hotel Adriatic in Orebič.
![Mljet National Park](/https/www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/Travel/2020/January/CROP--Island-of-Mljet-iStock.jpg?imwidth=350)
Saplunara beach, Mljet, South Dalmatia
Sand beaches are notoriously rare in Croatia. Seen from the road above, Saplunara is a tiny village (population 35) with two curving beaches, sitting in a wide sweeping south-facing cove, giving onto a shallow turquoise lagoon, backed by pinewoods. Seen close up, Velika Saplunara is a blissful swathe of fine soft sand, dotted with parasols made from palm fronds. From here, a path leads down to the smaller Mala Saplunara, where Hippokampos is an informal beach bar, occupying a wooden shack, serving coffee and cocktails. It’s a lovely spot to stay, ideal for families with kids, with little noise but the chirping of crickets and cicadas.
Nearby, you'll find several family-run eateries serving locally-caught fresh fish – a firm favourite is Stermasi. Most visitors to Mljet come by boat on one-day excursions Dubrovnik, to see Mljet National Park, with its dense forests and interconnected salt-water lakes, but few people venture to Saplunara, on the island's eastern tip. To get here, catch a ferry from Dubrovnik to Sobra on Mljet, then take a local bus or taxi.
Nearest airport: Dubrovnik, Croatia
Base yourself at: Villa Mirosa in Saplunara (villa-mirosa.com).
![Boats moored in Cavtat](/https/www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/Travel/2020/January/CROP-Cavtat-iStock.jpg?imwidth=350)
Pasjača beach, Konavle, South Dalmatia
Dubrovnik's beaches get notoriously overcrowded each summer, with bathers vying for sun-beds. The rural region of Konavle, southeast of Dubrovnik, offers respite from the masses. Here, along the rocky shore, between Cavtat and Molunat, historically each village had its own outlet to the sea – in most cases just a pier, where locals could moor up their boats. The only proper beach lies below the village of Popovići. A steep path, with steps carved into the rocks, leads through a small tunnel, bringing you down to a gorgeous rock-and-pebble beach, backed by sheer cliffs, supporting wild samphire and capers. There are no facilities, so bring a roll-up beach mat and plenty of water. It's south-facing, with no natural shade, but the sea is crystal clear, ideal for snorkelling. Pasjača lies eight miles southeast of Cavtat.
Nearest airport: Dubrovnik, Croatia
Base yourself at: Villa Pattiera in Cavtat.
![Žajnic beach](/https/www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/Travel/2020/January/CROP-zanjic-beach-iStock.jpg?imwidth=350)
Montengro
Žanjic beach, Luštica Peninsula
Montenegro's most popular beaches lie along the Budva Rivijera. Northwest from here, Luštica peninsular overlooks the sheltered waters of Kotor Bay on one side, and the glistening blue Adriatic Sea, with several secluded coves, on the other. Here, set amid olive groves, the remote village of Žanjic gives onto a curving strip of white pebbles, lined with sun-beds and backed by several bars and restaurants. For a truly outstanding (but rather pricey) seafood lunch, walk over to the lovely Ribarsko Selo with tables on a waterside stone terrace. In the past, Luštica was Yugoslav Army property, so tourism never developed here, but current plans foresee the building of several plush five-star seaside resorts. In summer, you can reach Žajnic by taxi-boat from Herceg Novi on the mainland, saving you the arduous drive around the perimeter of Kotor Bay.
Nearest airport: Tivat, Montenegro
Base yourself at: Hotel Lazure in Herceg Novi.
![dhemi at night](/https/www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/Travel/2020/January/CROP-Dhermi-Getty.jpg?imwidth=350)
Albania
Grama Bay beach, Karaburun Peninsula
The Albania coast remains remarkably undeveloped, with rocky mountains and deep arid gorges tumbling down to the inky blue Adriatic, but very few seaside settlements. Consequently, although Albania has some fine beaches, they're poorly served by road. One of the most delightful has to be Grama Bay, a pebble beach hidden deep inside a sheltered turquoise cove, backed by plummeting cliffs. Historically, it was a point of refuge for ships during storms, and it's named after engravings in the rocks (grama means "letter" in Greek), made by castaway sailors, citing the names of their vessels, mainly in Greek or Latin.
You'll find Grama on Karaburun peninsula, in South Albania, near the village of Dhermi, where the Adriatic meets the Ionian. To get here, take a 45-minute boat ride from Dhermi, or hike a eight mile mountain path from Palase, near Dhermi. Facilities are limited, but there's a small family-run restaurant, powered by solar panels, serving fresh seafood.
Nearest airport: Corfu, Greece; or Tirana, Albania
Base yourself at: Elysium Hotel in Dhermi (elysiumhotel.al).
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