The vibe
Sweden's second city and Scandinavia's biggest port is party town par excellence and puts big sister Stockholm in the shade. Compact and easy to get around, most of the nightlife is within walking distance. Take advantage of "After Work" Friday night sessions, where you get two drinks for the price of one from 4.30pm to 10pm and free snacks. Most bars, restaurants and clubs are stacked up along Avenyn, Linnegatan, Victoriagatan and Magasinsgatan.
Liquid
The hot spot right now is Uppat Framaat (Magasinsgatan 3). Is it a bar, cafe or club? The locals don't know or care. Dress to impress and down a selection of champagne cocktails at the city's most exclusive bar, Lounge Gothenburg (Avenyn 5). The bar at Bliss Resto (Magasinsgatan 3, 0046 31 138555) gets going around midnight when the crowd dances on tables as there's no dance floor.
Refuelling
On Friday everyone heads for Smaka (Vasaplatsen 3, +46 31 132247), which serves up big platefuls of meatballs with mashed potatoes and lingonberries and other traditional Swedish treats. Around £22. Bliss Resto has a bold modern Asian menu. Approx £30. Magnus & Magnus (Magasinsgatan 8, +46 31 133000), serves good international fare with a Swedish twist. Low tables and couches create a romantic atmosphere. Around £34.
Go native
Ice hockey is big here. Games start at 7pm at Scandinavium, Skanegatan. Gothenburg Concert Hall (gso.se) has a varied classical season and the modern Gothenburg Opera House (opera.se), presents ballet, Miss Saigon and Rigoletto during January and February.
Party
Niva (Avenyn 9) has five pulsating floors playing dirty funk till 5am. Young rock fans flock to Sticky Fingers (Kaserntorget 7) for live bands. Nefertiti, (Hvitfeldtsplatsen 6) is a live jazz club but turns into a nightclub hosting different nights such as Beat (soul, funk and hip-hop) and Fan Club (electrodisco) after 1am. A commercial and house scene reigns supreme at Deep (Avenyn 15), which attracts an older crowd.
Munchies
In need of hangover damage limitation? Join the queue at 7:an (Vasagatan 7), the legendary Gothenburg hot dog grill. Ask for a "half special" - a grilled hot dog with mashed potatoes, cucumber mix and seafood salad. In need of comfort? Hole up at Tintin (Engelbrektsgatan 22), the 24-hour eaterie. Dine with the comic book characters who adorn the walls and the tables.
Chill
Stroll through the old town of Haga with its cobbled streets and wooden houses. Walk in the Slottsskogen Park or have Sunday brunch at SoHo (Ostra Larmgatan 16), a new restaurant serving American-style brunch between noon and 3pm.
Rest your head
Hotel Flora (Gronsakstorget 2, +46 31 138613, hotelflora.nu) is a cheap friendly option. Old-fashioned rooms, central location and cool bar-cum- restaurant, Koket, on the ground floor. Doubles from £65 per room per night including breakfast. Hotel Odin Residence (Odinsgatan 6, +46 31 2200), which opened in early 2004, offers sleek Swedish design at budget prices. Doubles from £69 per room per night B&B.
Bring it home
Stock up on culinary specialities such as lingonberry jam, salmon and herring at the Market Hall on Kungstorget. Young Swedish designers are found at Stuk Denim (Vallgatan 12).
Way to go
Ryanair (0871 2460000, ryanair.com) flies to Gothenburg from Stansted and Glasgow for £27 return, including taxes. Further information: Swedish Tourist Council (020-7108 6168, visit-sweden.com).