There's never been a better time to visit Bratislava. It's been 15 years since the velvet revolution, more than 10 years since Slovakia became independent and nearly a year since the country joined the EU. The vibrant capital of one of the most progressive countries in central Europe is only an hour away from Vienna, two from Budapest and three from Prague, guaranteeing that the "little big town", as the locals call it, is a hot spot with plenty of nightlife to match.
Liquid
The traffic-free "korzo" zone is crammed with lively cafes and bars serving excellent local beers such as Zlaty Bazant, Smadny Mnich and Saris. Venturska, Michalska and Sedlarska streets are the most popular. Listen to live musicians in the Jazz Café, Venturska 5, then move on to El Diablo, Sedlarska 6, where you can soak up the alcohol with spicy Tex-Mex. Then join the arty crowd in Café Verne, Hiviezdoslavovo Square 18, and check out Café De Zwaan, Panska 7, which serves a good selection of European beers.
Refuelling
Housed in the Powder Tower, one of Bratislava's oldest buildings, Prasna Basta, Zamocnicka 11 (004212 5443 4957, around £8 per head), serves good Slovak fare such as potato pancakes with sauerkraut and smoked pork. To dine in smart surroundings, try the great steaks at Le Monde, Venturska 1 (004212 5441 5411, around £30 per head). Pasta rules the Italian menu at Medusa, Michalska 21 (004212 5465 7344, around £15 per head).
Go native
The beautifully restored Slovak National Theatre (snd.sk), dates back to 1776 and offers drama, ballet and opera. Don Giovanni, The Magic Flute, La Sylphide and Swan Lake are the big draws of the forthcoming season (tickets from £7). On the same square is the Redoute concert hall, home of the Slovak Philharmonic, one of the best orchestras in central Europe. Daily classical concerts cost from £5.
Party
The coolest all-night club is Spojka, Presernova 4, where top Euro DJs play house music on Friday and Saturday nights. For something more extreme, try Ucko, Sloboda 1, housed in an old bunker under the castle hill, where techno and drum and bass rule. Another bunker-club, Duna, features hip-hop, rock and goth parties. The Buddha Bar, Medena 16, plays funky nujazz beats nightly.
Munchies
Late night cheap eats such as goulash and dumplings can be found at the 24-hour diner, Hviezda, Kollarovo Square 1.
Chill
Take a stroll through the old town's medieval streets - a curious mix of buildings from the Hapsburg and communist eras.
Rest your head
The Radisson SAS Carlton Hotel (0800 3333 3333) looks like Buckingham Palace and is the best address in town. Doubles from £61 per night, with breakfast. Bratislava boasts several boatels moored on the Danube. Boatel Fairway (00421 2 5441 2080) offers doubles from £30, with breakfast.
Bring it home
Borovicka, the local juniper brandy, tastes similar to dry gin, at £3 a bottle. For collectors' CDs and vinyl drop into Nepal, Zamocnicka 11.
Way to go
EasyJet (0905 821 0905) flies Luton-Bratislava from £41 rtn, inc taxes.
· Further information: Slovakia Tourism.