The once-staid Bavarian capital is currently rivalling big brother Berlin as Germany's most cutting-edge city. Forget beer gardens, sauerkraut and lederhosen; trendy new neighbourhoods such as Glockenbach offer cool bars, diners and boutiques. Munich's sizeable and highly integrated gay population guarantees high style and a buzzing scene when it comes to nightlife.
The city is currently sprucing itself up in preparation for hosting the 2006 World Cup and the shiny new Allianz Arena stadium has just opened. The compact city centre is easily explored on foot but there's also a phenomenal public transport network of trams, buses, underground (U-Bahn) and overground (S-Bahn) trains.
Liquid
Kickstart the night early on the sofas at Brenner Bar, Maximillianstrasse 15, and sip cocktails at £5 a pop. Schmooze with the beautiful Bavarians at Schumann's, Odeonsplatz 6-7, before going on to the club-lounge Nektar, Stubenvollstrasse 1.
Refuelling
If you have one traditional meal, try Ratskeller, Marienplatz 8 (0049 8921 99890), in the neo-gothic New Town Hall. Feast alfresco or in the vaulted cellar on liver dumpling soup and roast pork with bacon croutons, washed down with weiss bier. Around £13. Brenner, Maximillianstrasse 15 (+8945 22880), is Munich's hottest eaterie. The vast concrete and stone space is punctuated with large wood-burning grills where chefs cook sizzling fish and meat. About £35. Booking essential. Seven Fish, Gartnerplatz 6 (+89 2300 0219) offers deliciously fresh seafood and salads in a blue and brick interior. Approx £15. For a blow-out treat head for the Michelin-starred Konigshof, Karlsplatz 25 (+8955 1360). Fabulous French fare for around £48.
What's on?
Munich is wall-to-wall festivals and events. For full listings see munich-tourist.de. The Bavarian State Opera House (staatsoper.de) dates from 1811 and is home to opera, ballet and classical music performances. Tickets from £6.
Party
If you look like a Bayern Munich player or one of their wifes you are guaranteed to slip past the velvet rope at P1, Prinzregentenstrasse 1, the town's premier nightspot. 8 Seasons, Maximilianstrasse 3, is Munich's white lounge-cum-club with top DJs. Atomic Café, Neuturmstrasse 5, plays everything from Brit pop to funk and soul. Soul City, Maximillianstrasse 5, was once Munich's premier gay club but these days attracts a mixed crowd offering international DJs and live PAs.
Munchies
Soak up Friday night alcohol with deep-fried flat donuts at Schmalznudel Café, Pralat-Zistl Strasse 8, open till 5am Saturday. Otherwise, stagger to Lambs, Sendlinger Tor Platz 11, and down pizzas, or pasta from £7. Open 24 hours.
Chill
Go for a stroll or swim in the Englischer Garten. Take the 17 tram out of town to the Versailles-like Schloss Nymphenburg.
Rest your head
One of the best options is the designer Anna Hotel (+8959 9940, geisel-hotels.de). Doubles from £104, with free minibar.
Bring it home
Cheap high street fashion from the stores along Neuhauserstrasse; rieslings and schnapps; and top quality kitchenware and gadgets at prices lower than at home.
Way to go
British Airways (0870 8509850, ba.com) flies Gatwick-Munich from £75 return, inc taxes.
Further information
German National Tourist Office (020-7317 0908, germany-tourism.co.uk).