It's not exactly news to say that these days Newcastle rocks in a way few other cities can. From the massive regeneration and stunning new developments along the quayside to the cluster of new lounge bars and restaurants, Newcastle, or NewcastleGateshead, as it's being increasingly referred to, is getting better and better.
Dress to impress - think Nice not Newcastle - and, despite the weather, you'll blend in just fine. Hairstyles are big here, too: both lads and lasses sport Toni&Guy-style girl and boy band locks.
Although the city is somewhat hilly, most of the nightlife is within walking distance and nowhere costs more than £5 in a cab, which are easily hailed. NewcastleGateshead also plays host to 2005 Alive, the biggest series of festivals ever staged in a British city.
Liquid
By 8pm the streets are crammed with lounge crawlers. Slip past the velvet rope and hang out with local footballers and their wives at Apartment (28-32 Collingwood Street), a Manhattan-style loft bar with several rooms. Tokyo (17 Westgate Road), with chandeliers and candles set over three floors and a garden, is the newest kid on the block. Popolo (82-84 Pilgrim Street) is generally packed by mid-evening with a young crowd quaffing cocktails.
Refuelling
The top place is currently Secco Ristorante Salentino, (86 Pilgrim Street, 0191-230 0444). Inspired by the food of Salento in Puglia, where owner Aldo hails from, expect superb dishes such as crisp parcels of smoked aubergine with Salentine tapenade and scarmoza and tiger prawns baked in sea salt with lemon and rosemary infused oil. Around £35 per head.
The Malmaison Brasserie, Newcastle Quayside (0191-245 5000) is all slinky leather booths and exposed brickwork, and serves mainly French cuisine. Around £30 per head. Just off the quayside, Café Live (27 Broad Chare, 0191-232 1331), part of the thriving Live Theatre complex, serves superb bistro fare such as pea and goat's cheese salad and steak frîtes. About £20 per head.
What's on?
The Norman Foster-designed Sage Gateshead performance space (0191-443 4666) - known locally as the slug after its bulbous shape - has an upcoming programme of world-class acts such as James Brown, The Buena Vista Social Club and Samling Opera's Cosi Fan Tutti. The Theatre Royal (0870 9055060) regularly hosts touring productions from the RNT and RSC.
Party
For plush clubbing think Foundation (57 Melbourne Street), where one of the country's finest sound systems pumps out everything from Judge Jules to Franz Ferdinand. For two floors of block party black indie sounds make for the World Headquarters (Curtis Mayfield House, Carliol Square). Night owls of all persuasions end up at The Powerhouse (Times Square), which is Newcastle's answer to London's GAY.
Chill
Have brunch at Barluga (35 Grey Street) or Café Royal (8 Nelson Street), in Georgian Grainger Town. Jump on a Metro train to the hip suburb of Jesmond and enjoy a coffee in one of the many pavement cafes. Stroll across to Armstrong Bridge for the Sunday arts and crafts market.
Rest your head
Quayside chic comes courtesy of Malmaison Newcastle (0191-245 5000), which offers double rooms from £99 per night. A slightly cheaper alternative is Jurys Inn (0191-201 4400); doubles from £75 per night.
Bring it home
Buy your own original work of art at the Biscuit Factory, Europe's largest commercial art space, housed in a converted Victorian factory building. Paintings, ceramics, sculpture and glass range from £20 to £20,000.
Way to go
GNER (08457 225225) travels London King's Cross-Newcastle from £20 return. Further information: 0191-277 8000, visitNewcastleGateshead.com.