Many world heritage sites attract so many souvenir shops and queues it can be hard to get the most out of what are usually billed as "must-see" attractions. Not so with Geiranger fjord on the west coast of Norway, a recent addition to the Unesco list. A couple of token shops at the jetty in Geiranger village sell T-shirts and toy trolls, but the sheer size and isolation of this part of Norway means that it's easy to escape the crowds and appreciate the deep blue waters of this awesome natural phenomenon. For a bird's-eye view, I recommend staying at Westeras, perched on the side of the lush green hills overlooking Geiranger at the head of the fjord. It's been a working farm in the same family since 1603, but the new generation is diversifying into tourism and has built five self-catering wooden cabins, each with a double room, bunk beds, and a basic kitchenette. For an evening meal out (or just scones and tea) there's a restaurant on the farm with a terrace that overlooks the water. But I found the best way to appreciate the fjord was to go on a boat trip from Geiranger to see 30m waterfalls or take a guided walk to visit old abandoned farms high up on the banks.
· A cabin for five costs from NOK500 (about £41) per night self-catering (geiranger.no/westeras, 0047 70 26 32 14).