‘We’ll get visas on arrival at Havana,” we told the clerk at Adelaide Airport. “Are you sure?” “That’s what our travel agent said.” “We-ell, OK, but I can only check your luggage to Amsterdam. It’s up to KLM whether they let you board your onward flight.” We checked with KLM in Kuala Lumpur on our way through. They were doubtful too.
As Mary and I tested the bed in our Havana hotel we told each other we’d always known our plans would work. Perhaps the airlines were unsure about visa formalities because Cuba was off the tourist map, at least for Australasians. But we were among five Australians in a group of eight, and were surprised to find Cuban tourism quite well-developed.
In seven days we rode horses; saw rum-making and cigar-rolling; visited churches, an old sugar plantation and memorials to the revolution; we walked the streets of Old Havana; rode in a 1956 Chevrolet convertible; learned salsa; and swam in the bath-warm Caribbean.
Of course, “western” tourists don’t just go to Cuba for sun and scenery. We were curious. How had this island state of 11 million people survived the US’s 54-year embargo (el bloqueo) and the collapse the USSR, its only powerful friend? Did the Communist party maintain power by coercion, or was there popular support? Was Cuba’s communism real? How did people feel about Guantánamo Bay?
These questions were in all our minds and our guide was ready to answer them. Between stops he talked to us from the front of the bus about Cuban history, politics, economics, culture … he had a list of topics on his smartphone and worked through them methodically, and he answered our questions candidly. We learned that tourism is now the main foreign exchange earner, supplanting sugar. Che Guevara, Ernest Hemingway, vintage cars, Havana cigars and the Buena Vista Social Club have all been co-opted as attractions.
But most people’s lives are marked more by hardship than by romantic memories. The UN estimates Cuba’s per capita income at $6,300 in 2012, just above that of China and Thailand. Income is mainly in the form of a food ration and free social services. Most wages are paid by the government and amount to no more than pocket money.
But when Fidel stepped down from the presidency to be replaced by his brother Raoul – duly elected by parliament – there was a shift away from political ideology towards economic pragmatism. Many businesses are now privately owned and pay taxes.
One capitalistic habit has been embraced enthusiastically: tipping. At every restaurant our guide reminded us to tip 10% of the bill, in addition to what we paid the strolling musicians. We accumulated pocketfuls of small coins to pay our way in public toilets. Chambermaids left us handwritten notes, exhorting us to enjoy our stay. We took these to be friendly invoices for their services.
The Guardian Weekly regularly publishes a Letter from one of its readers from around the world. We welcome submissions – they should focus on giving a clear sense of a place and its people. Please send them to weekly.letters@theguardian.com
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