EDINBURGH regularly tops the lists of 'the best cities in the world' and attracts more than four million tourists a year, but most of them miss the quirkiest - and tastiest - things in the city.
For while throngs of visitors crowd the Royal Mile and the city's castle, few know that the real gems lie on the city's back streets - from the cryptically named 'closes' to the mouthwatering squegg.
In 2022, Edinburgh was crowned the 'world's best city,' last year it was named among The Times' top 20 best cities in the world and earlier this year, Travel & Leisure named it one of the world's most beautiful cities.
As part of our Best of British travel series, we tapped up some of Edinburgh's most in-the-know residents for the best hidden gems in the city.
Shop owner Susan Doherty said: Take a meander around the historic closes - the narrow winding adjoining lanes off the main streets - of the Old Town. Wind your way around The Royal Mile and the Grassmarket - a historic market place full of independent shops and places to eat and drink - as you do so.
Visit the incredible National Museum of Scotland and catch the sunset from the rooftop terrace.
Get a cinnamon bun from Bearded Baker in Canonmills and take a walk up Calton Hill, to enjoy it with views of the city.
Catch a film at The Cameo or The Scotsman cinema - the latter is recently restored and is a real hidden gem sitting underneath the Scotsman Hotel - , both are from another era and make movie-going even more special.
Visit the stores and boutiques of Edinburgh’s best independent shopping streets like St Stephen’s Street, Broughton/London Street and Thistle Street for some shop-small retail therapy.
Bookshop owner Derek Walker: In the Old Town, the Jolly Judge is a cosy spot hidden in a close off the Royal Mile. In the New Town, I recommend The Cumberland Bar.
Susan: The Ox on London Street is my favourite friendly local that does an exceptional Sunday Roast (tip: book in advance for the roast).
Restaurant owner Graham Atkinson said: The Roseleaf takes the spot for me. Very charming and lovely food.
Hannah McConnachie, marketing manager for a large hospitality group based in Edinburgh, said: The Raeburn is a fantastic local pub in the heart of Stockbridge in Edinburgh. It is a beautiful friendly space for anyone at any time of the day.
Jackie the General Manager ensures you are treated like family on every visit. I am probably in there at least three times a week enjoying their large terrace, come rain or shine!
Susan: As an activity, do the Pickering’s Gin tour at Summerhall (based in the old vet school which in itself is a really interesting place). The distillery tour is fascinating, you get to learn all about the process, taste some gins and the group sizes are small.
Hannah: A new restaurant called The Avery has just opened in Stockbridge. Chef Rodney Wages has brought his Michelin-starred San Francisco restaurant to Edinburgh. I would save this one for a truly special experience!
If you’re a fan of whisky or want to try something special, head to the Black Bull in the Grassmarket. They have an excellent range of whiskies from ones you’ll recognise to the rare and exclusive. If you don’t want to pay hundreds of pounds for the bottle, head there and try a dram instead! The team knows what they’re talking about so ask them about the range.
Golden Hare Books is a fantastic bookshop. They have a brilliant section for a surprise read. Each book is gift wrapped with a couple of sentences written about it. I have bought several of these and found them to be a delight. You manage to uncover authors you wouldn’t necessarily have read – it’s a gem!
The Artisan Pasta Maker located at the bottom of Dundas Street, the Focaccia – is a must! In the window of the shop you can see all the pasta makers creating all the handmade pasta for the day, so much flavour!
Derek: Maker of the best bagels in the city, the Bearded Baker, has just opened a new brunch spot, 71 Steps, a short walk from their original cafe.
Susan: Argyle Place is wonderful for brunch and not everybody knows about it. It has an interesting and regularly changing menu, great coffee and a beautiful Scandinavian interior.
Graham: My favourite brunch spot has always been Urban Angel. They offer such a nice varied menu and are always consistent. The decor is stripped back and rustic which I also love.
Derek: The National Museum of Scotland has a playroom that can occupy them for hours. For older kids (with a strong stomach), the Surgeons' Hall Museum features one of the country's best collections of diseased body parts.
Camera Obscura - a long-standing tower with five floors showcasing hands-on exhibits of optical illusions - is not cheap but kids love it. Saughton Park now has a large play park, alongside a skate park and a formal garden. And just south-east of Edinburgh, Newhailes House has an adventure playground, Weehailes - with turrets, slides and high-level walkways, that they will never forget.
Susan: I recently took my friend’s children to a cat cafe called Maison de Moggy on West Port and it was a fabulous experience for all (over 10s only though). The National Museum is a winner every time for all ages, it’s baby friendly with a good cafe and great for school age kids.
Susan: Ante on Haddington Place is my go-to for a relaxed vibe and great coffee and bakes, run by the friendliest bunch.
Graham: Cairngorm in the West End. Delicious (tip: try the bacon toastie!).
Hannah: There are so many coffee shops popping up in Edinburgh right now. However, I like to stay true to the small independents. Patisserie Florentin in Stockbridge welcomes you with bright colours and homely service. A very sunny happy place to read a book and take in the day.
There's also Margot in Bruntsfield which is from the team behind the very popular LeftField. It’s good, honest food served by lovely people. One of the food offerings on its day menu is the 'Squegg', a square sausage and fried egg in ciabatta.
Susan: There are so many great independent shops in Edinburgh. Pop in to our neighbours Curiouser & Curiouser on Broughton Street if you’re in the area, Grow Urban is a plant shop and cafe that has two lovely shops in the city and Topping & Co is a fab bookshop over two floors where you get offered a free cup of tea or coffee when you browse.
Graham: Visit Armstrong's Vintage in the Grassmarket. Lots of weird and wonderful things to see.
Derek: For informal dining, Alby's all day long. A small and frequently rotating menu of enormous hot sandwiches on house-made focaccia, every flavour and texture perfectly judged. The beef shin with gravy, veggie crisps, caramelised onions, and rocket is in the greatest-sandwich-of-all-time shortlist.
For more formal dining, Taisteal combines local ingredients with an eclectic variety of flavours and techniques from around the world. Somewhere to be surprised as well by the combination of tastes in a dish.
Graham: Aizle. Absolutely stunning every time. It's more of a place for an occasion but also quite relaxed which is nice. Fine dining without the stuffiness!
Susan: The Water of Leith Walkway (a 13 mile walk) on a Sunday, starting out at The Stockbridge Sunday Market with a great take away coffee from The Bearded Barista. Stroll all the way to the Modern Art Gallery (free entry to the main gallery).
Graham: I love walking around The Pentland Hills (a 55 minute drive south-west of Edinburgh) with its reservoirs and endless greenery.
Derek: Mosque Kitchen. For the true cheap eats experience, go to the Mosque Kitchen actually attached to Edinburgh Central Mosque (the 'Original Mosque Kitchen') rather than the restaurant around the corner.
Susan: The Wrap Place on Chapel Street near the University has been there forever and is a great value place for a takeaway hot wrap.
Hannah: Chez Jules….every time! I love the bustling atmosphere, the venue is filled from the moment of opening. With lunch priced at £12.90 for three courses, this is a cheap eat not to miss!
Derek: Inverleith Park - north of the city centre - has it all, wide open fields, manicured gardens, a good play park, sports pitches, a duck pond, and it's just across from the Botanic Gardens if you need even more greenery.
Susan: It’s got to be Dr Neils Garden, also known as Edinburgh’s Secret Garden. It's at the foot of Arthur’s Seat on the Portobello side near to The Sheep's Heid Inn which is considered to be Edinburgh's oldest pub.
Graham: Princes Street Garden is a nice break from the busy city whilst being nestled at the base of the castle.
Hannah: Inverleith Park is such a beautiful green space with the best views of Edinburgh. From one viewpoint you can see the whole of Edinburgh, from Arthur's Seat – St. Giles Cathedral – Edinburgh Castle. It is a truly special spot.
Our panel of Edinburgh experts all own businesses or work in the local area...
Derek Walker, 40, (pictured above) is co-owner of McNaughtan’s Bookshop & Gallery, the oldest surviving secondhand or antiquarian bookshop in Scotland. He's offering Sun readers 5% off on purchases up to £100 if you show this article (offer valid until July 29).
Hannah McConnachie, 32, is marketing manager at Signature Group, who have bars and restaurants throughout Scotland, including Cold Town House at the foot of Castle Rock in Edinburgh’s Grassmarket. Cold Town House is giving Sun readers 20% off their total bill for a max table size of four (offer valid until the end of 2024).
Susan Doherty is owner of Lifestory, a lifestyle and homewares store in the New Town with a curated collection of Scandinavian, Japanese and European makers alongside many local and UK suppliers. She's giving Sun readers 10% off when they show this article (offer valid until September 29).
Graham Atkinson is director of Butta Burger, an unfussy eatery that was born during the first Covid lockdown in 2020.
Derek: The Edinburgh bakery scene has exploded lately and they all do something different. Hobz for enormous bakes with high-quality fillings. Kvasa just across the street for focaccia and unusual breads. Lannan for picture-perfect laminated pastries. Patina is worth a tram-ride out towards the airport for the properly sour sourdough. Tasty Buns makes the wildest sugary treats.
Graham: Lannan Bakery, in Hamilton Place, is a must. It's quite new and very popular so you'll need to get down early!
Hannah: I have recently been to The Pastry Section and surprised my Mum for her birthday with lots of cakes & bakes! They sell out every day. Picture perfect and mouth wateringly good! Another bakery has recently opened in Edinburgh with raving reviews called Lannan Bakery. I haven’t had the chance to try yet, but it is on my list!
Derek: Calton Hill (a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Edinburgh) has great views from any side.
Graham: To the summit of Arthur's Seat, where you'll get the best view of the entire city and beyond.
Derek: Mary's Milk Bar is not only the finest textured gelato around but also puts things in ice cream that shouldn't belong there and makes them work. Moo Pie Gelato is a bit more traditional and also very good.
Hannah: Mary’s Milk Bar in the heart of Edinburgh’s Grassmarket. An array of imaginative flavours, the queues are worth it.
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Susan: The New Town is ideal as it’s so easily accessible for all transport links, really central and close to all tourist attractions and it’s maybe a little quieter than the Old Town at night. The architecture is stunning and it’s got access to great places to eat across all budgets.
Graham: I love how charming the shore is. It's part of Leith and offers a sub-community not totally associated with the rest of the city.
By Alison Gibb - watch her video diary of her day out at the top of this article
I’m very lucky to live near the beautiful Edinburgh so I can go for a day trip whenever I want. It’s one of those cities you fall in love with immediately, but recently I spent the day trying out some of the tips from the locals in this article.
The first place I headed to on my day out in Edinburgh was the Grassmarket, a lively square in the heart of the Old Town, crammed with pubs, restaurants and independent shops.
I went to Edinburgh’s cat cafe, Maison de Moggy, where the cats are beautifully cared for and kept very safe in a fun environment. Sessions for the cat cafe need to be booked in advance, but you can play with the cats and enjoy their company, while having some delicious coffee, cake and hot chocolate.
I then explored the National Museum of Scotland, an imposing Victorian building built in 1866, that’s recently undergone a modern extension. There are galleries that take you on a historical tour around the world and others that focus on Scotland itself. At the top of the building is a beautiful roof terrace, where you can enjoy stunning views of the whole city.
For lunch, I recommend the original Mosque Kitchen, but you need to look for it carefully as it’s not on a main street - it’s at 50 Potterrow, tucked away, right beside the Edinburgh Central Mosque. You can sit inside or outside on the terrace and enjoy a delicious meal for under a tenner.
I then headed back to the Grassmarket and wandered up Victoria Street, a winding street famous for its colourful buildings and shops full of local treasures. I popped into Walker Slater, a tailor and tweed clothing specialist that champions Scottish designers, materials and makers. They have a menswear and womenswear collections, as well as beautiful handmade bags and accessories.
I then treated myself to an ice-cream from Alandas where there’s always a queue because the range of flavours is just amazing.
At the end of the day I had to sample some Scottish whisky, so headed to The Black Bull pub where a charming barman talked through their selection.
Before getting the train home I walked up Calton Hill, which is right beside the station. Interestingly, Edinburgh’s the least densely built city in the UK, so you can always find somewhere to breathe and enjoy not only the amazing city, but the beautiful countryside and seaside around it.
Graham: The Whiski Rooms does a very nice haggis.
Hannah: I am not a huge haggis lover. However, a truly Scottish experience to enjoy at The Queens Arms along with a dram!
