WONDERFUL DHALING
Exotic holiday island with UK flights is home to £2.50 cocktails, beautiful beaches and world-famous tea
The island somehow has it all; beautiful beaches, bucket-list animal safaris and fantastically rich cuisine
“YOU’RE drinking one of the finest cups of tea in the world,” the shop owner tells me as the steam billows from the china pot.
I’m inclined to agree, but this isn’t my ordinary cuppa. I’m 5,000 miles away from the UK.
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Sri Lanka is home to the world-famous Ceylon tea which goes into making our delicious English Breakfast morning brew.
And it’s not the only relationship between Sri Lanka and Britain — they drive on the left side of the road, most signs are in English and you’ll find cricket talked about nearly everywhere you go.
However, that’s where the similarities end on the Pearl of the Indian Ocean.
The island somehow has it all; beautiful beaches, bucket-list animal safaris and fantastically rich cuisine, while still feeling untouched by tourism compared to its South Asian counterparts.
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One of the most popular attractions to visit is the Unesco world heritage site Sigiriya, a fortress “in the sky” which is built on a huge ancient rock.
Dating back to the 5th century, how it was built remains a mystery although my tour guide joked of a local myth which claims it was “aided” by UFOs.
I wanted the very best views of it so I was up at 6am to make the steep climb at sunrise, joined by just a few other eager tourists.
The 1,200 steps are a challenge — talking turned to gasps for air — but it is worth it for the panoramic views of the bright green jungle stretching for miles.
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The early start means avoiding the crowds with the red rock remaining beautifully quiet apart from the whistling winds, and I took a peaceful moment of calm on the ruins’ steps.
Only on my way down was I once again greeted by a wave of noise, with screeching monkeys and chatty souvenir peddlers trying to hand me terrifyingly huge pythons.
A look inside the crumbling 100-year-old mansion in Sri Lanka jungle restored by four pals... who now rent it out for £1,000 a night
The most sought-after animal to spot in these parts is not the python, but the Sri Lankan elephant.
The majority of the 7,000 animals on the island are found in the wild and Minneriya National Park lets you get up close by safari.
Cheeky elephant
So, I donned my adventurer’s cap, and held on to the jeep with nervous excitement as we took off at speed.
I’d only seen the majestic creatures on documentaries and just moments after setting off, the car burst through the trees and I was squinting into the sun with a huge herd of elephants right in front of me.
They seemed nonplussed by the vehicles (and my enthusiastic pointing) as we all sat in stunned silence, watching them gnaw at the grassland.
This was only broken by a cheeky calf, which started squawking when told off by its mother with a flick of the trunk while the rest of them ambled by.
I quickly realised that it was almost impossible to avoid the wildlife on this tiny island, almost as if it was owned by animals, not humans.
This was especially true when staying at Jetwing Vil Uyana, named one of the best eco-hotels in the world.
Built on a former marshland, to say you’re a guest of the creatures is an understatement.
I shared my pool lodge with frogs, geckos and bats, often joining me as I tried to relax in the open-air bathtub.
Also home to the first Slender Loris conservation site (you can book private tours), we were even told of elephants and crocodiles sometimes being spotted in the swamp next to the hotel.
Thankfully the hotel has its own infinity pool for a safer, uninterrupted swim.
But a visit to Sri Lanka is nothing without a trip to the beach, living up to its name of the Resplendent Island.
I headed straight to the southern coast’s Cape Weligama which is often named one of the best hotels in the world.
Along with five pools (three of which are in private villas) there is direct access to a hidden sandy cove.
I stayed just one night, but for longer trips you can take advantage of the hotel’s seasonal whale-watching trips, as well as free-cocktail happy hours and private dining experiences with a local chef.
And if there’s one thing Brits love just as much as a beach, it’s curry — and Sri Lanka is definitely the place for one.
They aren’t for the fainthearted, though.
I very quickly realised that my spice tolerance level was embarrassingly low after hotel staff laughed at my reddening ears after a “mild” lentil dhal.
The brave can try the popular chicken curry, laced with spicy red chillis that will have you frantically reaching for water.
There is also Kottu, a street food made with chopped roti, best chased by a cheap Sri Lankan Lion beer.
Desert buggying
Despite being a primarily Buddhist country, I’m reassured the locals can drink.
“Sri Lankan parties end with breakfast, they go on so long,” the Grand Hotel’s GM tells me during a flying visit.
Sri Lanka is easier to access now with Qatar Airways relaunching flights last year from Birmingham via Doha.
And it has a stopover option that lets you spend some time in Qatar at almost no extra cost to your holiday.
Travelling via Doha, I extended my stopover by 24 hours, experiencing desert buggying, souk exploring and a stay at the Seventies-inspired Ned Hotel.
After two action-packed holidays, I am craving a cuppa when I get home — if only it was one of the best in the world.
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And Sri Lanka is easier to access now with Qatar Airways relaunching flights last year from Birmingham via Doha.
And it has a stopover option that lets you spend some time in Qatar at almost no extra cost to your holiday.
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Travelling via Doha, I extended my stopover by 24 hours, experiencing desert buggying, souk exploring and a stay at the Seventies-inspired Ned Hotel.
After two action-packed holidays, I am craving a cuppa when I get home — if only it was one of the best in the world.
GO: SRI LANKA
GETTING THERE: Return flights to Sri Lanka from Birmingham with cost from £452pp.
Qatar Stopovers starts from £14pp based on one night at a 4H hotel.
See qatarairways.com.
STAYING THERE: Rooms at Jetwing Vil Uyana cost from £266 a night, based on two sharing on a B&B basis.
See jetwinghotels.com.
Rooms at Cape Weligama start from around £542 on a B&B basis.
See relaischateaux.com.
OUT & ABOUT: Elephant half-day tours start from around £85pp.
See minneriyasafari.com.
Sigiriya early access starts from around £28. See sigiriyafortress.com.
MORE INFO: See srilanka.travel.