Do You Need a Body Serum? Body Care Is New and Nuanced

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When we talk about skincare, it's typically related to the face—perhaps the neck, decollate, and hands if you’re really committed to your cause. But after decades spent honing meticulous multi-step routines, it seems our attention is beginning to wander to other areas of the body. The body care market is booming, expected to reach an estimated $32.17 billion this year, with annual growth beyond. Still, treating our bodies with the same level of vigilance (and active ingredients) that we do our face seems a bit extreme, no? As it turns out, the answer is actually no—with some caveats, of course.

“We can experience some similar skin concerns on the body as we experience on the face,” says New York City dermatologist Dr. Whitney Bowe. According to Bowe, these similarities begin with standard breakouts on the chest and back (where oil glands are more concentrated) and logically extend to the rest of our skin. From clogged pores on the upper arms and thighs to hyperpigmentation borne of sun exposure, to dryness, fine lines, and general thinning, skin will be skin regardless of where it's located.

“The core principles remain the same: keeping your skin vibrant, hydrated, and blemish-free,” says NHS doctor Kemi Fabusiwa. Crossovers between the face and body abound, especially as applied to active ingredients. “Moisturizers containing ceramides are excellent for repairing and strengthening the skin barrier, making them beneficial for both the face and body, especially for those with dry or sensitive skin,” says dermatologist Dr. Nicole Ruth. Along with ceramides, Dr. Fabusiwa recommends focusing on products that contain AHAs (for gentle exfoliation), and antioxidants (to fight free radical damage) to serve overall skin health.

While it may be tempting to simply reallocate your regular skincare routine to the rest of your body, certain formulations are best reserved for the face. “When it comes to effectiveness, products like serums are typically more targeted for facial use due to their concentrated formulas tailored for specific skin concerns such as fine lines, hydration, or brightening,” says Dr. Ruth. “While these may work well on the face, they might not provide the same results on other areas of the body due to differences in skin thickness and texture. Additionally, skincare steps like expensive exfoliants or toners may not be as effective or necessary as they are on the face.”

Dr. Ruth also notes that certain actives (namely retinoids) require a nuanced approach for below-face use. “Retinoids can be highly effective for treating acne, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation on the face, but may cause irritation when used on more sensitive areas of the body, especially at higher strengths,” she says. When in doubt, start with a low concentration, always spot test, and don’t forget to protect your rejuvenated skin with a layer of SPF.

Buzzy brands like Soft Services are built on body care, bucking much of the above with retinol-infused serums, buffing bars, and chemical exfoliants delivering the same ilk of ingredients we’ve come to rely on for plump, luminous facial skin to the rest of the body. This is, after all, a new beauty frontier—this sort of innovation is expected in a burgeoning industry. But if investing the time and dollars into an entirely new regimen is too daunting a prospect, a basic approach to body care can help ease you into the space. Per the experts, all you really need to do is cleanse, exfoliate, moisturize, and protect, all with the help of gentle actives best suited for your body. ”Ultimately, the key lies in understanding your skin's unique needs and focusing on evidence-based ingredients and practices rather than falling for gimmicks,” says Dr. Ruth.