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Given how florals have played such a consistent role in the Cacharel narrative over the past 60 years—2018 marks this big milestone—it might seem hackneyed to describe the Fall collection as fresh. The difference this time: think fresh as in cool, rather than the usual garden association. Partly, such newfound edge was owing to a stronger presence of black; playing backdrop for several new prints, it forced the main accord of ocher and deep blue to appear especially vibrant, as though exposed to ultraviolet light. In broader wardrobe terms, a shrunken Perfecto, an asymmetrical tiered black dress, and wool jogging pants—indeed, all in black—were among the pieces that suggested a shift in positioning away from the brand’s ingenue mix of flowy, feminine silhouettes. Maxi skirts and spread-collar blouses still fulfilled this role, registering as sweet, albeit less relevant. Placed prints—a single flower on a sweater or a butterfly pattern across the front of a leather coat—bridged the two opposing attitudes.

What’s clear is that the studio team realized it was sitting on a valuable heritage asset: the original Cacharel logo with its curvy serif typography. Running beneath a grid of purple pansies (the season’s starring flower), inserted into vents of shorts, or streaming diagonally across a knit jacquard hoodie and a leather doctor bag—part of the brand’s new foray into accessories—the motif will go over well with those too young to enjoy Cacharel’s golden years. Colorful felt caps designed by Stephen Jones nodded to baseball and equestrian uniforms. Mostly, they put a mod spin on the street-leaning looks and confirmed that Cacharel has the potential to remain current season after season without a huge degree of effort.