David Koma explored the duality of his woman’s wardrobe for resort. “It’s about balance and a play on opposites,” said the Georgian designer at his east London atelier. “Hot and cold; hard and soft; aggressive and sensual—this contrast is key to every look, either in the fabrication or structure.”
A central motif within the collection is the iris flower, which, fittingly, in Ancient Greek mythology represents the link between heaven and earth. The symbol is seen on details throughout, whether blown-up and hand-embroidered onto sheer dresses and crystalized thigh-high cowboy boots, or cast into little 3D metallic decorations on necklines and necklaces. “The iris is feminine and elegant, but is also organic,” Koma mused. “And we experimented with different techniques and scales with its beautiful shape.”
Koma was inspired by the peculiar timing of the mid-season, as well, which sits somewhere between winter and spring. This in-betweenness is reflected in the clothes, from the delicate lace of corsetry details where the boning is entirely flexible, to the butter-soft pebbled leather of a mini-skirt and biker jacket set, as well as a standout brown floor-length single-breasted coat.
Using his go-to crepe fabric, Koma cut party pieces that feature cut-out details at the hip, dangerously-high slits, and bulbous pearl embellishments at the trim. Acidic pinks and yellows pop up as swinging halter dresses, degradé sequin skirts, and cascading ruffle tops and opera gloves. The most challenging to construct? “The organza dress is layered with complexities,” said the designer as he showed off the intricate number up-close. “But the combination of transparency, femininity, and technique makes for a strong, directional look.”
It takes a certain panache to be a Koma girl. With the right attitude—and a special occasion that requires dressing to the nines—any of these pieces are a surefire way to turn-heads.
