Korean sunscreen is all the rage. If you’re American, you might be out of luck.

As one hemisphere careens toward another steamy summer, it’s important to understand one thing about sun and skincare: Not all sunscreens are created equal. I’m not talking about the different SPF protection levels (although they are important), but rather the clear truth that some sunscreens are bad (heavy, stinky, greasy), and it’s harder for Americans to get their hands on the good (i.e., less heavy, less stinky, and less greasy) ones.

On TikTok, a platform seemingly designed for making beauty products go viral, influencers and users have been touting Korean sunscreen brands — Beauty of Joseon, Round Lab, Thank You Former — as life-changing holy grails. The claim is that they’re lighter, more elegant, and more joyful to put on faces than their American counterparts.

To get to the bottom of what makes Korean sunscreens so good and, relatedly, American sunscreens so not good, I spoke with Charlotte Cho, a licensed esthetician, founder of Korean skincare and beauty website Soko Glam, and creator of the skincare line Then I Met You. Cho has also often been credited with bringing the famed 10-step Korean skincare regimen to the US.

It turns out that a lot of thought goes into making Korean sunscreen perform better, much of which most laypeople would never even consider. For instance, Korean sunscreen makers know that the efficacy of sun protection is rooted in reapplication, so some have created light formulas that are actually pleasant to put on. Who wants to spend all day slathering on sunscreen they hate?

There are a few reasons Korean brands are getting rave reviews and why Korean SPFs feel so advanced. Primarily, they use the latest and most advanced chemical filters on the market. These sunscreens are thinner, have less of a white cast, and are easier for skin to absorb — as opposed to thicker, less elegant formulas in mineral or physical sunscreen. The US market has chemical sunscreens, but companies use old technology, a difference not unlike the gulf between Elle Woods’s 2001 iBook and a 2024 MacBook Pro.

The difference in quality between Korean and US sunscreen can feel like night and day, which raises the basic question: Why can’t or why won’t US brands up their game?

It turns out there’s a big barrier, a legislative and bureaucratic one, that seems to be blocking US innovation.

This conversation has been edited and condensed for clarity.

Charlotte, why are Korean sunscreens having such a moment right now?

Korean sunscreens have always had a cult following since the beginning of Korean beauty’s rise in popularity, roughly a decade ago — around the time I also started Soko Glam. Korean sunscreens have always been our bestsellers and highly sought-after products because of their lightweight formulations, zero white cast, and affordable price points.

I think weight is the thing for me. The sunscreens I grew up with were always so gloopy and had that smell. It made me dislike applying sunscreen!

Traditionally, American sunscreens are known for their pasty textures and white finish, which makes it undesirable to apply, especially since it’s best practice to reapply sunscreen every few hours.

Korean sunscreen filters are so advanced, it hardly feels like a “traditional” sunscreen texture as they are often weightless, hydrating, and provide a natural finish. With more information available about the importance of SPF protection, Korean sunscreens have become more desired for daily use.

Why do you think people are praising Korean brands? Is there something about certain formulas? Do certain formulas perform better?

For sunscreen to be effective, you have to wear it consistently and reapply every few hours. The comfortable and lightweight textures of Korean chemical filter sunscreens makes it not only possible, but actually enjoyable to apply these products to the skin, as some can even replace your daytime moisturizer.

When it comes to formulas, mineral sunscreens are typically lower SPF due to the fact that the zinc or titanium dioxide works to sit on the surface of the skin and deflect sun rays. Chemical filters such as octocrylene protect your skin by absorbing the UV rays and release it from the body. There are also hybrid chemical/mineral formulations too.

I think what we’re sort of dancing around is that Korean brands, and international brands, are considered superior to US sunscreen. Why is that?

In Korea, sunscreens are regulated as functional cosmetics versus the US where they’re regulated as over-the-counter drugs. The Korean Ministry of Food & Drug Safety (MFDS) is the regulatory authority, similar to the FDA, that’s responsible for creating and overseeing the sunscreen approval process. The approval process includes submitting clinical safety and efficacy documentation to the MFDS, which is far simpler than what the US requires. The testing and documentation is similar to what’s required in other global regions but the process is more efficient and can be done quickly.

In contrast, because the FDA treats sunscreen like a drug (and not a cosmetic), they have some of the most stringent requirements in the world, which requires extensive testing. As a result, the FDA in the United States has not greenlit any new UV filters since 1999. Notably, the FDA has recently mandated supplementary safety data for all previously approved chemical UV filters to uphold their market presence in the US.

So according to the FDA, sunscreen manufacturers are making drug claims — e.g., preventing sunburn, decreasing risk of skin cancer — which is why they’re regulated as such. Are the extensive testing and requirements holding US brands back?

It’s a very long process to get those rules and regulations updated. Meanwhile, US beauty brands are unable to make advancements in chemical-based sunscreens, which can make their formulas clunkier and not as elegant.

Korea is always at the forefront of skincare innovation, including sun filters. They’ve been innovating with chemical sun filters and thus can create better textures and products that don’t break the bank.

Given these different regulations, how do consumers get ahold of Korean sunscreen?

While Beauty of Joseon and Round Lab sunscreens are not US FDA approved, the sunscreens sold on Soko Glam are since we import these into the US and have to go through FDA checks. Neogen Airy Sunscreen and the Then I Met You Essence Light Sunscreen, both have SPF 50 broad spectrum protection, and are lightweight with zero white cast.

Many consumers are also purchasing through international sites that ship from outside the US, to bypass the FDA import restrictions. I caution you against purchasing on Amazon. There are many reports of counterfeit sunscreens on the marketplace, which means they will not contain the appropriate sun filters and will not be protecting your skin!

Yikes! I’ve heard about this. There’s an entire genre of TikToks about how to tell if you’re buying counterfeit sunscreen.

There’s also been a crackdown on Amazon where unregistered sunscreens are delisted if they are not able to prove that their products abide by current US FDA regulations. There have been some Korean brands that have been able to bypass US regulations through loopholes, but eventually it catches up with them.

I’ve seen some brands with bestselling sunscreens suddenly pull out of the US market with their bestselling sunscreen overnight. Some brands have shared with me that they are attempting to reformulate their best sellers specifically for the US market, but if US FDA regulations don’t change, it won’t be nearly the same experience as their original bestseller.