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Vancouver: US Dollar vs. Canadian Dollar
Half the fun of a trip to Canada right now is watching that exchange rate. A $200 Canadian ATM withdrawal hit me to the tune of $155.04 American. Thus, BC was a blissful bargain. One week here and you can cover a whole lot of ground. I did; here's how you can do it like me.
15 Places
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Tracey’s 4-star review: Walking around Vancouver you'll see one million inexpensive sushi joints. Sushi Coen is just another among many, presenting no compelling reason for you to run across town for a visit. I popped in for a visit when they'd not been open long and found it satisfied, not as a destination restaurant, but as a neighborhood place. Vancouver-ites live right there in the heart of the city so lucky for Sushi Coen, they have a lot of neighbors. So, what comprises an "inexpensive" sushi joint? Think Sushi Combo for $9 Canadian ($7 US). Think a uniquely delicious Spicy Tuna Roll for $3 Canadian (about $2.25 US). With one exception (mackerel tasted not great) this meal was completely satisfying. Service was sweet, with my Japanese waiter asking if I'd like more miso soup after I'd finished off my bowlful, an offer not generally heard. He'd also never heard the phrase "hit the spot" which I used to describe to him my post-meal satisfaction level. So, it's possible that he's as new to town as Sushi Coen. This place isn't doing anything that half of Vancouver already has in practically every block but that doesn't mean that I don't wish it were in my town, doing just what they do and at those prices. I do. Sushi Coen hits the spot. -
Tracey’s 2-star review: Almost everything said in every less than rave review of Bao Bei is something I agree with: "This was probably the worst Asian culinary experience I've had this summer" - Scott S. "Bao Bei is a 'hit or miss' " - Vanessa N. "After all the hype I was expecting a lot more" - Kit L. "Food portions were tiny and priced far too high" - Lisa T. Must I go on? Usually when I stay a little too long at the pre-party it makes the party itself that much better. Beginning my evening at the fabulous Keefer Bar, I was looking forward to trying their well-regarded neighbor, Bao Bei. I adored Bao Bei's shabby-chic Chinoiserie decor and the overall styling of the restaurant but the love sort of stopped right there, in its tracks. Despite their no-reservations policy and a busy entrance, a table quickly came my way and then, dinner did too. Literally; I didn't experience the long wait others have mentioned. A parade of Chinese-ish dishes landed on my table, each one as unremarkable as the one before it. Nothing tasted memorable, authentically Chinese, or successfully fused with anything that improved it. There was no remarking on the great flavors or grabbing seconds before someone else cleared the plate, and there were many (small) plates to be cleared: lamb potstickers (a special of the night), eggplant with Sichuan cakes and bean curd skin, pastrami fried rice, tofu cubes, a squid dish. But Bao Bei's food stopped short of being bad. Instead, if asked at the time I'd have shrugged my shoulders and said "it's okay", a phrase which I never find to be a ringing endorsement for anything. I was expecting something like San Francisco's Mission Chinese Food (5-star funky deliciousness) and got something a lot more costly without a quarter of the flavor. The hipsters may be flocking to Bao Bei (and the tourists too, thanks to a mention in Lonely Planet) but I'm not angling for a return visit. Bye-bye Bao Bei. -
Tracey’s 5-star review: The three things you must know about Minami are this: 1. Put yourself in the hands of your more than capable waiter. Mine made suggestions, listened as I ordered, then suggested half orders of the things I wanted and the things he wanted me to want. Without him I'd a) never have known that half orders were possible and b) never been able to sample as widely from the menu as I did. Win-win. 2. Order your food a couple of dishes at a time, consuming previously ordered dishes before deciding what's next. This approach, most often employed at sushi bars (though I selected table seating), ensured lots of contact with that knowledgeable waiter, and drew the meal out to European proportions. Did I mention that it made the meal more romantic and memorable? Try it then tell me if I'm wrong. 3. You should expect to consume numerous versions of "aburi"-style sushi here at Minami as it's their specialty. The fish is thinly pressed, then flamed and seared resulting in a preparation unlike any sushi I'd previously tried. If you're seeking big slabs of raw fish, this isn't the place. A couple more things you might like to know are: * Minami and Miku, another well-reviewed Vancouver restaurant are under the same ownership with similar (same?) menus. * The Omakase experience here is $125+ (Canadian) per person and available only if reserved 72 hours prior to your reservation via submission of a form available on their web site. Submitting a form for dinner seems a bit over the top (and perhaps unnecessary since your waiter can help you to craft what must be an equally exquisite experience) but I remain intrigued. Perhaps next year I'll turn that paper in on time and make it actually happen. * Did I mention that food and service are excellent? Indeed. Minami isn't a classic sushi bar-only experience. The menu is varied and includes meat (which I didn't sample). The space is somewhat upscale and, with such stellar service, makes for a good destination/special night out. You're worth it, no? -
Tracey’s 5-star review: Assigning a 5-star rating to Vancouver's Stanley Park feels like cheating, the equivalent of shooting fish in a barrel. I suppose it's possible to have some horrifying experience here but that's barely a possibility if you follow two simple rules: 1) Visit during the summer; and 2) Ride a bike around the 17+ mile long seawall. I can't pretend to have explored all of Stanley Park as that'd likely take years. What I can report is that it is the unique equivalent (oxymoron) of the world's best inner city parks and, like those, it's the heart of the city. Think NYC's Central Park, Mauerpark in Berlin, Paris' Tuileries Gardens, Amsterdam's Het Vondelpark. Pedaling along the seawall one encounters one stunning water vista after another. The setting couldn't be more beautiful. With small exceptions (one being near the giant waterfront swimming pool at Second Beach), the bicycle route is easy to follow. It's separate from both the pedestrian path and the roadway, one-directional, and relatively flat for its entirety. There's many not so hidden treasures in the park. Third Beach, with its long stretch of sand, stunning view of English Bay, and Tuesday evening drop-in drum circle is a gem. So is Theatre Under the Stars, which puts on outdoor musical productions all summer long. The bike path will take you by the totem poles of Stanley Park which are impressive but may actually be the least impressive thing in the park. Years ago I came to Vancouver in the winter, amidst a series of snow flurries and, because of the weather, never made it to Stanley Park. Don't make that mistake. Plan your warm-weather visit and be rewarded accordingly. A visit to Vancouver without a visit to Stanley Park is not much of a visit. -
Tracey’s 3-star review: When in Seattle several years ago I was struck by all of the Northwest artifacts. I'd not thought Seattle to be exotic in any way and was surprised and a little bit disbelieving of its Northwest connections. Vancouver features even more Northwestern artifacts but here, outside the USA, it seems more apt. At a distillery on Granville Island I met a pair of First Nation siblings; No such thing happened in Seattle. This is to say that here in VC I'm a believer. If you want to explore the connection between VC and its First Nation roots and whatever that might mean, get yourself out to the Museum of Anthropology at UBC. They have a wild collection of enormous, beautiful, majestic, hand carved totems in their Great Hall and more in their Outdoor Sculpture Complex. In a category of I-don't-know-what-to-call-it they also have the "Multiversity Galleries" which is something almost indescribable: thousands (millions?) of objects/artifacts from the world over, housed behind glass cases or in large pull-out drawers that are there for you to enjoy. If you like just looking at things humans have created this is your place. The most interested person in the world couldn't begin to drink in all there is to see in this section of the museum. While this museum has a vast and enjoyable collection, where it falls short is in the creation of truly engaging, interactive exhibits that rival the best museums out there. This "missing piece" results from the fact that the museum serves primarily as an educational tool for UBC students and this shows up in things like those "Multiversity Galleries". There, I sought information about what I was viewing only to find that it was researchable on a nearby laptop, via a search I couldn't master. As a result, no actual learning took place, just a lot of beautiful and interesting things to look at. Other exhibits had a similarly academic-minded focus. The UBC campus is huge and situated on a beautiful peninsula. If you decide to bike to the museum know that you'll have to ascend a very long hill before your arrival. Once there though, the beautiful museum is your worthy reward. If you have a hankering to view top-notch First Nation artifacts or a desire, in general, to just view a whole sh*tload of man-made art (almost all of it 3-D) head here. You might not fully understand what you're seeing but perhaps that won't matter; the eye candy alone is satisfying. -
Tracey’s 5-star review: A message buried deep in the voluminous cocktail menu says everything some people will need to know about The Keefer Bar: "CAUTION... Almost all Keefer Bar Cocktails are doubles... some are triples... Ask your Bartenders". I was already well into my second Wenxu ($12 Canadian; Finlandia Vodka, Grapefruit, Lemon, Ginger, Red Ginseng Tincture, Soda), seeing double while trying to read the cocktail menu, before spying this cautionary note. I had not asked my bartender. The Chinatown-based, dimly lit Keefer Bar will reel you in and entice you with tinctures, spirits, Chinese apothecary ingredients, and things that might've been present in a seedy, back-alley medical office in days of yore. A sign above the bar reads "Medical Center" and opening the cocktail menu brings you to a page labelled "list of Remedies and Cures". Heal me Dr. Keefer. From a glass of water flavored with a cinnamon tincture to an Ireland inspired "Taste the Rainbow" whiskey flight ($25 Canadian; Jameson Reserve, Greenspot, Bushmill 16) to the eyedroppers employed by the pharmacist/bartenders, the Keefer Bar is a find. Not a hidden find, but the "I'm so glad I found this place" type of find. With dinner reservations elsewhere I had no opportunity to sample their inspired small plates menu nor was I able to partake in their Sunday thru Friday 5 - 7 p.m. Happy Hour (2 for 1 food, cocktail specials, and $5 beer and whiskey specials). If you're coming early, any day but Saturday will expose you to those deals and they're good ones. In the early evening, Keefer Bar was sparsely inhabited and I observed from my stool at the bar as the bartenders went about their business, juicing, slicing, shaking and boiling. I engaged one long enough to learn the most popular Keefer Bar Cocktail, the Rosemary Gimlet, but failed to inquire of its strength. I'll leave that up to you. For perfectly executed, inventive cocktails which taste fabulous get thyself to a specialist: The doctors at Keefer Bar will heal what ails you. -
Tracey’s 2-star review: A few days after my Wild Whales Vancouver outing I stood on the shore of Sunset Beach observing a Wild Whales boat returning to Granville Island at 3 p.m". "What's up with that? Why do they get to come back at 3 p.m.?" I asked, seriously peeved. "They probably saw whales" he answered. And there you have it. The Wild Whales adventure begins upon arrival at 10:15 a.m., when you check in. At 11 a.m., after you've been outfitted in serious anti-exposure gear, your small boat departs and you're told that you won't be stopping for harbor seals, sea porpoises, and similar commonly seen sea creatures. Instead, you'll be venturing far and wide in search of whales but beware, if you fail to find whales (they're wild, after all) you won't be returning at 3 p.m. Nor will you be returning at 3:30, 4:00, or 4:30. It was well past 5 p.m. when my Wild Whales boat finally docked back at its point of origin and I was never so glad to be off a boat. Fail to see whales and this is one long-ass day. In fairness, the staff wants to find whales as much as the paying customers. This explains why failure to find whales results in such a long stay on the water. The staff really want you to see the whales you came to see but, though they partner with others to locate whales, it's no guarantee that whales will be found. As you motor around scanning the horizon for signs of whales you'll be shown photos of whales, be fed information about the various pods, eat your lunch, sleep... seriously, I've never been so bored in my life. As we searched in vain for whales I couldn't help but think of the other things that could've improved my experience. Booze for one, though there's probably good reasons this isn't permitted. I have no doubt that Wild Whales is an awesome experience if you actually get to see whales up close. That you might not however, should be a consideration when booking this trip. In the future, I'd not book any whale watching trip of more than 4 hours duration. I'd also come armed with an incredible lunch spread and perhaps some flask-contained contraband. In the end, our group was able to see a small portion of the hump of a single humpback whale 4 times sometime past 4 p.m. The 5th time, the tail lifted as the whale deep dove never to be seen by us again. Total time from sighting to disappearance: maybe 8 minutes. Total time on the water: upwards of 6 hours. Our guide was reasonable enough to count our trip as one without a whale siting entitling all customers to a second trip, free but non-transferable, at any time in the future. I like a good deal but I'd honestly have to think long and hard about signing up for a second 6+ hour trip with the possibility of seeing no whales (or harbor seals or porpoises). * Don't forget to take your Dramamine. The only thing worse than no whales is 6+ hours of puking, as one person on my boat experienced. * Wild Whales promises snacks which weren't offered until past 4:30 p.m. Dear staff: They'd have been welcome far earlier. * About that staff: the driver and guide were friendly and knowledgeable but even the nicest, smartest people couldn't make up for an entire day seeing essentially nothing. Sorry. * Approximately $128 (Canadian) per person buys you a whole lot of time on the water but maybe no whales. Oh well. -
Tracey’s 4-star review: Regrets. I have a few. But here's the one that I'll mention: Bento Box. Having read Scott S.'s review (8/1/15) I understood the importance of being first in line at the lunchtime opening of Kingyo. I understood the fact that the Kingyo Bento Box would not be mine unless I did so, and uttered the words "I'd like the bento box" as I was being led to my seat. I'd seen the photos and understood that Kingyo's was the Earl of Bento Boxes and that only 10 of them were made each day. And still? I failed. Arriving midway through Kingyo's lunch hour I knew that the dream of that bento box had escaped my grip. My plus one inquired as soon as seated and I think the host chuckled a bit as if to say "silly man, those are long gone". The restaurant and its lunch menu are a thing of joy. The place, an izakaya, hustles and bustles amid continuous shouting (not angry shouting) in Japanese. The long center counter seating is artfully divided by plantings so you don't have to stare directly at the person opposite you. The lunch menu (http://www.kingyo-izakaya.ca/lunch/) is rich with offerings, each reading better than the one that precedes it. Service is quick and perfunctory, though it's difficult to get a server's attention a second time, once the goods have been delivered. So get everything you need and want on the first pass, including adequate amounts of soy sauce. I over-ordered just slightly, trying to compensate for the long gone bento box: * Tomato Kimchi Tofu Salad (under $8 Canadian) - A burst of unique flavors; don't miss. * AAA+Beef Fillet Steak Bowl (Under $15 Canadian) - Not a complaint was heard * Assorted sashimi, salmon flake, and ikura rice bowl (under $15) - A whole lot of raw fish, perhaps even too much. * Negitoro Sushi - The only miss; not bad but also not remarkable. I left Kingyo completely satisfied but wanting. Wanting to try more of that menu, wanting to try the elusive Bento Box, wanting to return for a second visit at some future date. * Reservations accepted (but not for that Bento Box) * Same ownership as Vancouver's Suika and Raijo. * Fun place, good food, can't miss. -
Tracey’s 3-star review: Inexplicably, suspension bridges are a "thing" in Vancouver: * The Capilano Suspension Bridge Park costs upwards of $30 and gains you access to many such bridges; * The Greenheart Canopy Walkway at UBC runs about $20, includes access to the Botanical Gardens, and looks akin to a short hike in the sky; and * A single, completely free suspension bridge exists at Lynn Canyon. Iffy on my bridge commitment level I opted for the free version, taking public transit to North Vancouver's Lynn Canyon. Firstly, the public transit journey to Lynn Canyon is worthy of your time simply as an adventure. You get out of the dense city and journey into the tree-filled burbs. It takes time, too, which is important if the bridge is your ultimate destination. The bridge itself will take you less than 1 minute to traverse though possibly more if it's littered with people. Being free of charge you're warned: it's packed with people. The bridge itself is fine but it did nothing to convince me that I needed to shell out money to experience other suspension bridges. What it did do, given how brief the experience is, was encourage me to experience more here. So here's how you do it: * Public transit to Lynn Canyon * Begin or end with craft beer and poutine at the Lynn Canyon Cafe. Be certain to sit on the deck behind the cafe where there are fewer people. * Cross the damned bridge. * Hike. The park is stunningly beautiful and filled with excellent hikes. The hike I did traversed Rice Lake, was simple (flat, quick, and easy to follow) but lovely and gave me something to do besides the bridge. Plan ahead and make a day of the hikes in this park (http://lynncanyon.ca/trails/). * Though there are other less crowded swimming spots, the 30 Foot Pool sits very close to the suspension bridge so it attracts the most visitors. You can get wet here and, if you're very daring, scale nearby rocks to leap into the waters far below the bridge itself. Lynn Canyon is a beautiful, free park worthy of being hiked but the majority of visitors are coming for the suspension bridge and the 30 Foot Pool. If that's all you've got on your mind I'd say it's fine but nothing much to get excited about, thus the 3-star rating. -
Tracey’s 5-star review: There's a debate going on in my home: Did Vij's serve the best dinner in Vancouver or was it Minami? The person with less sway than me believes it was a tie. I however, place the crown firmly on the head of Vij's as I believe that spicy, complex flavors are more difficult to pull off than the freshest of fish. From the moment you arrive at Vij's it feels like you've won the prize. During the obligatory wait (no reservations accepted) they'll take your drink order (coconut water + vodka = winning) and come around repeatedly with delicious, gratis appetizers. Some might get so full off these that they'd consider leaving before their name is called. Don't. Once inside, the hospitable spirit continues in spades. Vij's operates like a finely tuned, casual orchestra presided over by Vikram, the owner, who may just stop by your table to ensure everything is to your liking. To say that everyone here steps in for everyone else is a huge understatement. So busy were all the staff - taking orders, delivering plates, bringing water, and clearing plates - that I couldn't tell you who my server was but it didn't matter. Everyone pitched in, dancing around the space like it was their personal ballroom. Very few restaurants run as smoothly as the always moving Vij's staff and it's a rare and remarkable thing to experience. My dinner began and ended with appetizers but what appetizers they were. I'd been told not to miss the lamb popsicles (a specialty entree) but I couldn't break free of the siren song of all those appetizers: Eggplant in thick yogurt and garlic curry, Mutton kebobs with Bengali style curry, Meeru's Monarch Butterfly (raw sugar and ghee braised squash with wood ear mushrooms), Chickpeas in black cardamom and clove curry on grilled coconut kale... I could go on but the menu changes seasonally. What's on your menu might not have been on mine but based on my experience I believe it'd be near impossible to have a misstep here. If you're going to Vancouver and miss out on Vij's you've missed out on something you shouldn't. Some might call it Indian food, others might call it Indian Fusion (though I'm uncertain what it'd be fused with). I'd call it the best, most uniquely interesting and fabulously delicious Indian fare I've ever sampled. I'd also say don't miss it. -
Tracey’s 5-star review: Recipe for a Perfect Day: Mix together equally but sequentially - * 1 morning at a special Yelp event at Vancouver's Food Cart Festival * 1 sunny afternoon at Stanley Park's Third Beach and * 1 evening in Malkin Bowl, watching a stage production of Hairspray Bike between each place, ending with a late night ride down Denman, as you furiously try to research the hundreds of restaurants and bars you're whizzing by. My perfect day might not look like yours but I guarantee you can't err by giving over your evening to Theatre Under the Stars (TUTS). Each summer, TUTS produces two family friendly musicals, airing them al fresco in Stanley Park's tree surrounded Malkin Bowl on alternating nights. Sip wine while the sun sets around you as you smile and laugh (in the case of Hairspray) at the on stage production, knowing that it originally ran on Broadway and you're catching it at pennies on the dollar. I purchased the best seats they sell and was set back a whopping (sarcasm intended) $39 (American) per ticket. TUTS is currently running Hairspray and Oliver on alternating nights. Seating is in plastic lawn chairs for which pads are available for a donation of your choice (or none if you so choose). Ditto on the programs. And if it starts to rain, ponchos are made available free of charge. On my night at TUTS there was no hint of rain, just a gorgeous night that descended onto and around me as I basked in the joy of seeing something so great in one of the world's most gorgeous parks. I found the production to be 100% great, 0% amateur. Pre-show, food and drink are for sale for consumption in a small picnic area. Having sampled the Salmon Plate ($12.50 Canadian) I'd recommend you bring your own picnic and stick to purchasing only snacks and/or booze. Alternatively, bring in your own picnic food and drinks. I could be caught decanting wine into my cup during the performance; wine makes the show and surroundings all the better. There was something magical about biking to and from the theatre but if you choose to, be certain to have your post show ride mapped out. Post intermission the sky grows black and the park becomes very dark. I was able to find my way back onto city streets in minutes, but do plan ahead. If you want to picnic pre-show I'd recommend doing it right outside the entrance to Malkin Bowl. There's a gorgeous lawn area surrounded by flowers in bloom. I so enjoyed my TUTS experience and their Hairspray production that I briefly considered returning for their showing of Oliver. Overruled; there were other experiences waiting to be had in VC. That's true, but you really couldn't go wrong by making one of your adventures an evening at TUTS. -
Tracey’s 4-star review: There should be no mistaking the reason for coming to Sylvia's. Though I had no complaints about their hamburger ($14 Canadian), my server's response to my order said all I needed to know: "We only do them well done. That's just the way we do it in Vancouver. They come pre-formed and...". I stopped listening. A well done burger would be fine but the "come pre-formed" part let me know I wasn't at Marlowe (SF). You also might not want to come for the Irish Coffee ($7 Canadian). The Buena Vista (SF) founders, the first to recreate this classic Irish drink outside Ireland, would be rolling in their graves to see this version. It's fine, but it's creative (sugared rim, nutmeg whipped cream, and wafer cookie) and quite unlike what you would get elsewhere. So why should you come to Sylvia's? It's the view, silly. The view, the view, the view. Sylvia's sits on some prime real estate directly across from English Bay Beach where the sun takes a long time to set. Settle in. One round of drinks followed by burgers followed by Irish Coffees (each ordered after the previous was consumed) still didn't see me through the entire sunset but it didn't matter one bit. The view up and down the beach, the view of the water, the mountain view... drink it up. Sylvia's is old school meaning it's not fancy but it's comfortable. I liked the casual, quiet vibe from the moment I entered. Of course, since they've been there forever (they're Vancouver's first cocktail bar) it was important for me to get the drink that had also been there forever: the 1954 ($7 Canadian) was a remarkably fresh vodka/chambord drink littered with delicious fruit. Get it. Sylvia's has live music on some nights and, when I visited, excellent service. Nobody is trying to turn tables; they seemed fine with me staying as long as I desired. Lucky for me, when I finally left, the sun was still setting over the bay. Drinks, a view, a beautiful sunset; a perfect close to a perfect week in Vancouver. Thank you Sylvia's. Thank you Vancouver. -
Tracey’s 5-star review: Grouse (verb): To grumble or complain. Grind (verb): To oppress, torment, or crush. Never has a mountain trail been so aptly named. A sign towards the beginning of this trail declares it "nature's stairmaster" and, like the name, no words could ring more true. I searched for another sign I imagined they had planted somewhere, "switchbacks are for pussies", but it was in vain. That sign existed only in my head. In its 1.8 mile vertical climb to the top, the Grouse Grind rises from an elevation of 1,083 feet to an elevation of 4,150 feet. That's a rise of 3,067 feet in the space of 1.8 miles. In comparison, I hiked Oahu's Kuliouou Ridge Trail back in February and I thought it was a beast yet it rises only 1,900 feet in elevation over a 2.5 mile stretch. Canadians don't mess around. Adding to the "grind" portion of your adventure are the signs, posted at 1/4 marks along your path. Though it's explained nowhere it's worth knowing that these markers refer to elevation, not distance. This accounts for the reason that certain segments feel so much more difficult than others: they cover the same elevation within a shorter distance. I'm talking to you, damned 4th quarter. It was on the 4th section of the Grind that I rhetorically declared "I don't think I can do it" knowing full well that I had to. The only thing worse than climbing the mountain would be climbing down it without having reached the pinnacle. Further, hiking down is prohibited. Never has the saying "the only way around a problem is through it" resonated more. I wanted to be through with this mountain. Aside from my first five minutes on the trail I passed nobody; I was the person to pass. But it's not a race. I reached the pinnacle and though my time (timing your climb is a Grouse thing) would impress no one I was both relieved and proud of my accomplishment. The hike should run you anywhere from 1 to 2 hours, give or take 15 minutes. When done, my hope was to never see this hike again in my lifetime. With time and distance though, I've become somewhat in awe of it (and me, for doing it) thus the 5-stars. If you want your ass kicked all the way to Sunday don't miss an opportunity to hike the Grouse Grind. You'll complain the entire way up and rejoice when it's over. Other stuff: * I hiked on a rainy summer weekday. The trail is supposedly wall to wall people on summer weekends. Less so on rainy weekdays. * If rain is predicted, go before it gets heavy. During heavy rain the trail is akin to hiking up a series of small waterfalls. * Wear close-toed shoes, bring a ton of water, and a change of shirts. I ignored the "change of shirts" and wound up having to buy one at the top. Sitting there in a wet shirt proved to be a freezing experience. * There's a whole lot of things to see and do at the top including a casual dining place and, upstairs from that, an actual restaurant/bar with a fireplace and beautiful views. Also, live bears, a lumberjack show, and who knows what else? I was so cold all I could do was eat and drink and leave. * The views from the top are supposedly spectacular. On this day, the mountain was completely fogged in. Zero views in any direction. If that matters to you, carefully choose your hike day. * You're required to take the gondola back down at a cost of $10 Canadian per person. This is no doubt one of the loveliest views ever but not when it's fogged in. Then it's just a transportation device. So, choose your hike day accordingly (you can also take the gondola up but c'mon now)... * Easy to get to via public transit from downtown Vancouver but made even easier via a summer perk: a free shuttle that leaves daily (during summer) from Canada Place (Downtown Vancouver). * 2 hours 15 minutes. I told you it'd impress no one. -
Tracey’s 4-star review: Speakeasies, behind hidden doors with no signage, are a "thing" these days but did you ever stop to wonder their origin? Hell no. You just wanted a a drink. Forbidden Vancouver leads a little 2-hour "Prohibition City" walking tour that sprinkles just the right amount of historical facts (about the city, the colorful folks who shaped it, and booze) into a gentle stroll through some of the older and seedier (though by no means the seediest) parts of Vancouver. The tour is led by an actor, playing a part but saying that makes it sound cheesy and it's not. It's interesting, informative, and above all, amusing and fun. Our tour group, of about 16 people (1/2 locals), were smiling throughout. The tour provides the right amount of facts, woven into an interesting and engaging story and involves the group in a way that rewards paying attention. And, importantly, the tour ends before you grow bored or tired of standing or listening. It's right in every regard. You can advance book Forbidden Vancouver tours online for $22 Canadian (less for seniors and students). You can also take your chances and book on tour day; Vancouver's Tickets Tonight site was selling same day tickets for 1/2 price while I was there (which is a steal). That the tour ends in Gastown, where you'll likely feel ready to throw back a double in honor of those who drank before you, is fitting. Forbidden Vancouver also offers another well regarded tour, The Lost Souls of Gastown. It says a lot that I'd consider taking this tour on a future trip. -
Tracey’s 4-star review: Ever since dining at NYC's Balthazar last October I've been harboring a desire to eat like a Russian couple I spied there. They were dining off a raw seafood tower several levels high and so extensive that they left their seats for a mid-meal walk before returning to finish off the riches spread before them. Seeing this - and coveting this - can result in bankruptcy. You've been warned. When I read about the well-reviewed Blue Water in advance of a Vancouver vacation I had two thoughts: 1) raw seafood tower and 2) Canadian dollar. With apologies for whatever economic woes are plaguing the Canadian dollar I silently rejoiced. Canada, right now, feels like a bargain vacation to a visiting American. My initial impressions of Blue Water weren't favorable. The less than warm hostess greeting, the way the hostesses were dressed, and the need to briefly wait for seating despite a reservation convinced me I'd erred in selecting Blue Water. I knew the place was quite expensive but initial impressions didn't jibe with that. Once seated, the feeling continued to plague me. The restaurant is very large and though nice, feels somewhat retro. When I met a foodie Vancouver-ite days later she rolled her eyes then described the place to her visiting friend as "the sort of place that has big vases full of breadsticks all around". So it's a bit touristy, quite pricey, and circa early '90s is what I'd take that to mean. Still, they had what I'd come for. Buried in the massive tomes that constitute Blue Water's alcohol and food menus were the raw seafood towers I thought I'd order before being overruled. I didn't get exactly what I'd come for but aside from the constantly replenished bread rolls, seaweed butter, and chickpea/red pepper dip, I was still able to stick to an all raw seafood dinner (seafood tasting for two served on its own tower + a beautiful assortment of local raw oysters + selected nigiri + special raw bar/raw fish rolls). Blue Water has an extensive wine list often voted "best of" in local polls and prides itself on serving only the freshest and most sustainable of wild coastal species. Such things come at a cost, as one would expect, but that cost is lessened a smidge by the current, relative strength of the US dollar. A meal for two, including wine and tip ran $170 Canadian (about $130 US) and that was without any main course entrees, and without a full bottle of wine. It'd be ridiculously easy to spend far more. Despite first impressions, Blue Water excelled on service. Nastasia, our server, understood how to pace the meal and the decanted wine, explained everything excellently, and helped minimize any initial misgivings. I'm still waiting for a seafood tower to call my own. If I ever get back that way it'll be the Blue Water Cafe Tower (currently $149 Canadian) for sure. I'll not let my opportunity to live like a filthy rich Russian pass me by again.
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