Garlic Aioli

Updated Aug. 3, 2024

Garlic Aioli
David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.
Total Time
20 minutes
Rating
4(167)
Notes
Read community notes

Zuni Café in San Francisco makes a traditional aioli with only four ingredients: garlic, egg yolk, olive oil and salt. No lemon or vinegar, no mustard, no pepper. Quarts of aioli are produced daily, mounted by hand with a wire whisk. You can, of course, make aioli with an electric blender or food processor in a matter of seconds, but, in “The Zuni Café Cookbook,” the chef Judy Rodgers describes how to make aioli with a mortar and pestle, the old-fashioned way. It takes patience, but the result is sublime. Choose a mild-tasting extra-virgin olive oil, perhaps a French one, or use a mixture of half-olive oil and half-neutral-tasting vegetable oil. —David Tanis

Featured in: Zuni Café at 40: Still a Home for the Eclectic

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Ingredients

Yield:About ½ cup
  • 1large or 2 small garlic cloves
  • Salt
  • 1egg yolk
  • ½cup mild-tasting extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (4 servings)

250 calories; 28 grams fat; 4 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 20 grams monounsaturated fat; 3 grams polyunsaturated fat; 0 grams carbohydrates; 0 grams dietary fiber; 0 grams sugars; 1 gram protein; 72 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Cut garlic into a few pieces, and pound them in a mortar. Add a pinch of salt, which will act as an abrasive and help you smash the last solid bits of garlic.

  2. Step 2

    Add the egg yolk and stir with the pestle to combine the mixture. Using the pestle, work in oil, a cautious trickle or a few drops at first, then gradually increasing the flow as the yolk becomes tacky and opaque.

  3. Step 3

    Slowly stir in remaining oil, or as much as you can. As the yolk reaches saturation, the mixture will make a satisfying clucking sound (The aioli will be quite thick at this point.)

  4. Step 4

    Stir in a few drops of water. The water will whiten and soften the aioli, allowing you to add a little more oil, in case the garlic seems too aggressive when you taste the aioli. You’ll need the water in any event, or the sauce will be too stiff. (Stirring in ½ teaspoon water will allow you to incorporate as much as ½ cup more oil.) Stop adding oil when the sauce has the consistency you like. Taste and adjust salt, and thin again with a little more water, if necessary.

Tip
  • If you don’t have a mortar and pestle, you can stir up a little aioli using a small soup bowl and a salad fork, following the same method. Smash your garlic with the side of a knife or grate it with a Microplane.

Ratings

4 out of 5
167 user ratings
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Private Notes

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Cooking Notes

In the South of France, we add one cooked potato cut in small pieces to the egg yolk and garlic, mash until it's well blended, then start adding oil slowly, as described. It's great.

Hello! I’m always worried abut eating raw eggs. Can you make this any other way?

RIP, Judy Rodgers. Your beautiful recipes live on!!!

Heresy I know, but I made mine in a blender, running on its highest setting. I added one egg yolk plus one egg, one teaspoon of salt, and four or five small cloves of garlic. Keeping the machine running, I added (as slowly as possible) one cup of vegetable oil. It emulsified beautifully. To finish, I added the juice of 1/2 of a lemon and more salt to my taste.

I have made aioli both with a blender and using this method. We greatly prefer the aioli made in this manner at our house. We only use good quality oil. It has a feel that I can best describe as velvety. I have had aioli made with oils other than good quality extra virgin olive oil. I have also tasted Miracle Whip.

Add a little fresh lemon juice and a dash of cayenne pepper

If you get eggs from a healthy farm, not a gross supermarket, (and eat it right away) it should be totally safe! Get unwashed eggs if you can and them wash them only right before use-that way the term-proof barrier which protects the egg will not be broken until the last second.

The capacity of my mortar is too small for mixing the entire recipe so I shifted to a larger bowl and whisk. Worked just fine.

Followed the recipe to the word and it was a triumph. Go very easy with the water, I used my fingers to add a few drops at a time. Didn’t use all the oil, maybe a half tablespoon left over. Having it tonight with barbecued shrimp and fries.

This is my second try at making this with no success . Today I started in the mortal and pestle and eventually switched to an immersion blender. I must have worked on it for 15 to 20 minutes but it never fully thickened. I don’t know what I am doing wrong

I agree with Maria's comment. I have been using raw eggs in food my entire life with no bad effects, but I buy only fresh eggs from a small farm and clean them at the last minute. I am rewarded with lovely, orange-y yolks, and superb taste. I typically use them within 1 to 3 days, and do not refrigerate them - I store them in my garage (cool environment, even in summer), Otherwise, they will smell up your refrigerator, as usually they come smeared with chicken poop.

Made this again this time using a immersion blender with a 2 cup measuring cup. No mess, quick easy and delicious. I did change the recipe: used one whole egg room temperature, added one teaspoon lemon. I’ve made the mortise pestle version, this one is less strenuous. And easy clean up. Store in measuring cup with cling film cover.

Many years ago I had a burger at Zuni Cafe, with their aioli sauce. It was and still is the best hamburger I ever had.

A video on this technique would help. Handmade is notoriously tricky.

Some days you just need to stay out of the kitchen. Today was one. I’ve made this aioli successfully many time. Today I attempted to make it six times. Each time it failed, either broke or never came together. Tried every rescue I knew...room temp eggs and oil, add a yoke, whip more fiercely, add a bit of water. Nothing worked and I wasted a lot of good I ingredients and only have a sore arm to show for it.

Worked and worked this recipe in a large pestle and mortar, but wasn't satisfied with the chunks, so pulverized it in my Cuisinart, with creamy results. Dipped freshly-baked focaccia in it. Addictive.

This is the first NYT recipe that has defeated me. I have now tried this 3 times and each time I have returned to Melissa's aioli recipe in the food processor, which works perfectly. I recognize the potential difference between the two. I would prefer to make an aioli with one yolk. But no matter how vigorously or slowly I incorporate the dribbles of oil, the emulsion does not happen. The viscosity remains far too thin. I really wanted this to work.

Not thickening enough and tired arm forced to use immersion blender. Success.

Mine never thickened, so I brushed it on bun and griddled it. Where might I have gone wrong?

Mine would not thicken. Not sure where I went wrong.

Made this with my seldom (never) used mortar and pestle. I love aioli but most recipes make too much for this solo cook. Amazingly easy and excellent results..be careful with the garlic amount though, it can be pretty assertive.

Add several drops of lemon juice.

In the South of France, we add one cooked potato cut in small pieces to the egg yolk and garlic, mash until it's well blended, then start adding oil slowly, as described. It's great.

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Credits

Adapted from “The Zuni Café Cookbook” by Judy Rodgers (W.W. Norton & Company, 2002)

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