1

via art pasiune

150 de ani - coal de arte
MODA
150 years - school of arts
life art passion
FASHION
2 3
MODA via art pasiune
150 de ani - coal de arte
M
2
prefa
preface
autori
authors
volum coordonat de
a volume coordinated by
traductor
translator
layout
credit fotograi
photos credits
Doina Berchin . Unda Popp
Venera Arapu . Matei Arnutu . Ioana Avram . Paula Barbu . Adina Cezar
Sergiu Chihaia . Alina Maria Griga . Bogdan Hojbot . Liliana Ifrim . Doina Lucanu
Leontina Mailatescu . Alexandru-Ioan Mrginean . Adina Nanu . Aurelia Pomponiu
Unda Popp . Gheorghe Preda . Oana Maria Roca . Liliana uroiu . Rzvan Vasilescu
Doina Berchin . Unda Popp
Margareta Tasi
Bogdan & Romana Mateia
arhiva EMI din cadrul UNAB
the EMI Archive at the National University of Arts Bucharest
Acest volum face parte din programul aniversar al Universitii Naionale de Arte Bucureti,
realizat cu ocazia mplinirii a 150 de ani de la ninare.
This volume is related to the anniversary program of the National University of Arts, Bucharest, at its 150th anniversary.
Descrierea CIP a Bibliotecii Naionale a Romniei
Moda : via, art, pasiune / Unda Popp, Paula Barbu,
Doina Lucanu, ... ; pref.: Doina Berchin ; design
grac: Bogdan Mateia. - Bucureti : Editura UNARTE,
2014
ISBN 978-606-720-008-9
I. Popp, Unda
II. Barbu, Paula
III. Sbrciu Lucanu, Doina
IV. Berchin, Doina (pref.)
V. Mateia, Bogdan (il.)
687.1/.3(084)
3
150 years - school of arts
FASHION life art passion
15
FASHI
4 5
edina foto
a profesorilor
din cadrul
Departamentului Mod,
cu accesorii vestimentare din
colecia Adina Nanu, 2014
The photo session of
the Fashion Department
professors with
Alina Nanu clothing
accessories,
2014
6
Unda POPP
profesor universitar doctor
coordonator al Departamentului Mod
professor doctor
the Fashion Department coordinator
7
Anul acesta UNAB mplinete 150 de ani!
Numeroasele materiale editate cu acest prilej
vorbesc despre artitii care au nvat sau au pre-
dat n aceast prestigioas instituie. Printre ei
sunt bunicul meu Sabin Popp, mama mea Adina
Nanu i brbatul meu Gheorghe I. Anghel, fapt
ce mi face locul acesta de-a dreptul familiar! Dar
mai ales m determin s neleg, poate mai bine
dect o pot face alii, c exist un ux care curge
de la o generaie la alta, de la o personalitate
artistic la alta, ce adun experiene din cele mai
diverse n beneciul celor mai tineri.
Oricum, sunt extrem de onorat c acest
moment m prinde i pe mine aici, ca profesor
al colii, pe care am absolvit-o cu ceva timp
n urm.
Ioana Avram, Paula Barbu i cu mine am f-
cut parte din primele serii de studeni ai Seciei de
Mod, ninat la nceputul anilor 70 de Leontina
Mailatescu i de Adina Nanu, i la rndul nostru
am pregtit urmatoarea generaie de tineri profe-
sori: Venera Arapu, Alina Griga, Liliana uroiu i
Rzvan Vasilescu alturi de care lucrm astzi ca
ntr-o echip rodat. i dac cei mai sus amintii
au fost doar studenii mei sau ai Paulei urmtoa-
rea serie: Oana Roca i Sergiu Chihaia, cei mai
tineri asisteni, sunt deja considerai ai notri ai
tuturor, ca rod al efortului colectiv de a transmite
ct mai multe i mai diverse informaii.
nc de acum 9 ani, cnd Departamentul
Mod s-a desprit de Textile i i-a conturat un
Viziune idilic La familia
This year the National University of Arts Bu-
charest is going to be 150 years old!
The numerous materials edited on this occa-
sion evoke the artists who have learned or taught
at this prestigious institution. Among these, my
grandfather, Sabin Popp, my mother, Adina Nanu,
and my husband, Gheorghe I. Anghel, which
makes me feel really familiar here! Moreover, it
makes me understand, perhaps better than oth-
ers, that there is a ux owing from one gen-
eration to another, from an artistic personality
to another, collecting a wide range of diversied
experience for the sake of young people.
Anyway, I am extremely honoured that this
moment nds me here as well, as a profes-
sor of the school which I graduated from some
time ago.
Ioana Avram, Paula Barbu and myself had
belonged to the rst series of students attend-
ing the Fashion Department, initiated at the be-
ginning of the 70s by Leontina Mailatescu and
Adina Nanu; subsequently, we also prepared the
following generation of young professors: Venera
Arapu, Alina Griga, Liliana uroiu and Rzvan Va-
silescu, who we are working with today, as a very
good team. And whether those mentioned above
were only my students or Paulas, the next series,
represented by Oana Roca and Sergiu Chihaia,
the youngest assistants were already considered
ours, the result of some collective effort to con-
vey more and more diverse information.
Idyllic vision La familia
8
traseu multi i interdisciplinar, cu o structur de
predare modular, alturi de noi, cei care am
studiat moda (dar care ne-am specializat pe di-
recii att de diferite), au fost cooptai i profe-
sorii Aurelia Pomponiu (absolvent a Seciei de
Tapiserie) i Doina Lucanu (absolvent a Seciei
de Textile de la Cluj), care au contribuit la for-
matul complex al programului nostru de nv-
mnt. Apoi ali doi tineri asisteni, Matei Arn-
utu (absolvent al Departamentului de Pictur)
i Alexandru Mrginean (absolvent al Seciei de
Art Monumental) ni s-au alturat i au adus
cu ei noile tehnici digitale i foto/video.
Echipa a crescut cu colaboratorii externi Doi-
na Berchin, Gheorghe Preda, Adina Cezar i Lili-
ana Ifrim importante personaliti ale diferitelor
domenii (artistice i tehnice), care completeaz
pregatirea studenilor de la Mod.
Catedra noastr cuprinde profesori cu
personaliti artistice diferite, astfel nct ex-
periena, intransigena, dar i entuziasmul i
jocul s e ct mai bine dozate i administrate
grupelor de studeni.
Vreau s cred c toi cei implicai astzi n
pasionantul parcurs propus de departamentul
nostru se simt la ei acas la coal, aa cum se
poate vedea i n fotograile aniversare, i poate
peste nc 50 de ani profesorii care vor preda
aici (printre care sper s se numere mcar unul
din cei 5 nepoi ai mei) se vor poza, la fel ca noi
astzi, tot cu plriile din colecia Adinei Nanu.
P.S. Fiul meu Iosif Oprescu, lector universitar
doctor n cadrul Departamentului Design la UNAB,
propune lansarea termenului de strnepotism.
For nine years, since the Fashion Depart-
ment had separated from the Textile Depart-
ment and dened its multi- and interdiscipli-
nary orientation, focused on modular teaching,
we those who had studied Fashion (but who
specialised so differently) got associated with
professors Aurelia Pomponiu (who graduated
from the Tapestry Department) and Doina Lu-
canu (a graduate from the Textile Department
Cluj), who developed the complex pattern of
our educational program. Then other two young
assistants, Matei Arnutu (a graduate from the
Painting Department) and Alexandru Mrginean
(a graduate from the Section of Monumental
Art) joined us and brought the new digital and
photo/video techniques with themselves.
The team was completed with some external
contributors Doina Berchin, Gheorghe Preda,
Adina Cezar and Liliana Ifrim important person-
alities in various artistic and technical domains,
completing the training of students attending the
Fashion Department.
Our department comprises professors ex-
pressing different personalities thus experi-
ence, relentlessness, enthusiasm and play are
well balanced and administered to the groups
of students.
I would like to believe that all those involved
in the fascinating route proposed by our depart-
ment feel themselves like home at school, as
one could also see in the anniversary photos, and
perhaps in 50 years from now the professors, who
are going to teach here (I hope at least one of
my 5 grandchildren), will be photographed, just
like us today, in the Adina Nanu collection hats).
In short. My son, Iosif Oprescu, dr. Lecturer
at the Design Department, the National Univer-
sity of Arts Bucharest, proposed the promotion of
a new term, great-nepotism.
9
10
Doina BERCHIN
jurnalist, comentator i promotor de mod
journalist, fashion commentator and promoter
11
Regis Michel, conservator la Muzeul Luvru,
spune c n perioada actual cultura cunoate
un fenomen de disneyland-izare i tie bine
ce spune! Nu e de mirare deci s observm c
n plin globalizare i la vreme de criz, moda,
care n anii 80 abia ncepuse a acceptat ca
art, traverseaz acum o etap, de loc dori-
t de manelizare. Mai mult dect pe alte
meridiane, la noi, unele publicaii promoveaz
kitschul de lux i cultiv personaje discutabi-
le, cu o notorietate dobndit prin expunere
excesiv i scandal, cu un background cultural
decitar.
Designerii, chiar i cei cu studii, se vd ade-
sea nevoii (i asta nu numai la noi) s accepte
proiecte ndoielnice i s fac numeroase con-
cesii unei clientele semidocte, dar potente din
punct de vedere nanciar. Lumea fashion, ca
i cea media, ind din ce n ce mai ahtiat de
rating i vizibilitate dobndite prin provocare i
oc agreeaz preferenial, ca form de exprima-
re, spectacolul generalizat, altul dect cel strunit
de rigoarea scenei.
De aceea, multe propuneri vestimentare
penduleaz descumpnitor ntre un erotism
lipsit de mister i mpins din ce n ce mai mult
spre o exhibare cu conotaii porno i (sau)
urtul asumat, deliberat, condimentat de ati-
tudini groteti. Adugai la asta multitudinea
sufocant de debuturi n Sptmnile Modei
ce se organizeaz n tot mai multe locuri pe
mapamond i nevoia de consacrare cu orice
Aventura
Regis Michel, who had worked in conserva-
tion at the Louvre Museum, states that at present
culture becomes familiar with a disneyland-iza-
tion phenomenon and he knows very well what
he says! Thus we are not surprised to notice that
in full globalization and in times of crises, fash-
ion - which in the 80s had been hardly accepted
as art - experiences a cycle of... manelization,
which is not desired by anybody. More than any-
where else in the world, in our country there are
some publications which promote the luxurious
kitsch and develop questionable characters de-
ned by some notoriety gained through an ex-
cessive exposure and scandal, or a scanty and
poor cultural background.
Designers, even the professional ones, often
nd themselves (and this occurs elsewhere too)
in a new context, accepting doubtful projects and
making numerous concessions to a half-erudite
yet nancially potent clientele. The world of fash-
ion, as well as the media world, both more and
more interested in the idea of rating and visibility,
obtained by means of challenge and shock, pre-
fer the generalized show as a form of expression,
which is more different than the one restrained
by the rigor of stage.
That is why there are many fashion sugges-
tions which oscillate disappointingly between an
eroticism deprived of mystery and driven towards
an act suggesting porn connotations and (or) the
assumed and deliberate ugliness, seasoned with
grotesque attitudes. Add to all these the suffocating
Adventure
12
pre, prin gesturi i creaii care s intrige. Un
carnaval zgomotos i foarte colorat pare s
cucereasc rapid publicul, mai mult sau mai
puin avizat.
E un peisaj descurajant pentru unii, stimu-
lator pentru alii. Internetul face acum posibi-
l participarea simultan, n direct, a oricui la
prezentrile de mod, altdat considerate eve-
nimente foarte elitiste. Mai puin elegan i
mai mult spectacol gsim i n imaginile oricrui
participant la un eveniment, fotograat la pa-
noul de la intrare i devenit astfel vedet prin
postarea pe Facebook.
n timp ce creaia vestimentar cu aspiraii
artistice nregistreaz aceste convulsii, indus-
tria modei se regrupeaz, i externalizeaz
producia, coaguleaz mari concerne care i per-
mit din cnd n cnd s ofere maselor, la pre
accesibil, produse sub semntura unor designeri
consacrai. n felul acesta democratizarea luxului
d roade, iar croitoria la comand devine un lux.
Care este i care trebuie s e rolul colii de
prol n acest peisaj?
Marile coli i diversic i specializeaz
la maximum programa, oferind n acelai timp
burse, stagii de practic n ateliere renumite i
alte forme de lidership celor interesai din lu-
mea ntreag. Pregtirea nu e att substanial,
aplicat, pe ct e de general, deschiztoare
de orizonturi. Vorbim de un domeniu n care
au atins celebritatea i au avut succes nanciar
destui autodidaci. Aa c nvmntul superior
de mod, adaptat noilor circumstane, ncearc
pe de o parte s ofere instrumente de lucru i
s formeze capabiliti pentru integrarea relativ
uoar n toate industriile modei, i pe de alt
parte pstreaz obligaia de a forma un bagaj de
cunotine de ordin teoretic i artistic la care se
adaug o serie de activiti cu valoare experimen-
tal menite a-i pune pe studeni i masteranzi n
contact direct cu publicul i viitorii beneciari ai
muncii lor.
Universitii Naionale de Arte Bucureti
(UNAB) Departamentul Mod, sub conducerea
profesor doctor Unda Popp lucreaz de mai muli
ani ntr-o formul nou, pe module, care d posi-
bilitatea studenilor de a se familiariza cu domenii
i metode de lucru diferite, dar toate legate de
viitoarea lor formaie i condiie profesional. E
multitude of debuts during the Weeks of Fashion or-
ganized in more and more places in the world and
the need to become famous by all means through
gestures and creations meant to intrigue. A noisy
and very colorful carnival seems to overwhelm the
more or less competent public rapidly.
It is a context which is discouraging for some,
and stimulating for others. Nowadays the Internet
facilitates anybodys simultaneous and direct par-
ticipation in fashion performances, once considered
very elitist events. We nd less elegance and more
performance in the images of any participant, who
is photographed at the entrance pannel thus be-
coming a star when posted on the Facebook.
While the creative clothing expressing artistic
aspirations records these convulsions, the fash-
ion industry re-structures, externalizes its pro-
duction, and coagulates large chains, which can
sometimes provide the masses with some tradi-
tional brand products at an affordable price. In
this way the democratization of luxury becomes
more productive and the custom tailoring be-
comes a luxurious habit.
What is and what must be the role of such a
school in this context?
The famous schools diversify and specialize
their program to the maximum while also of-
fering scholarships, internships in well-known
studios, and other leadership forms to those in-
terested all over the world. The training is not
so substantial and applied, it is rather general,
opening new horizons. We refer to a domain
where self-educated people reached celebrity
and enjoyed a nancial success. Thus the Fash-
ion higher education, adapted to new circum-
stances, tries, on one hand, to provide work
instruments and develop skills for the relatively
easy integration in all fashion industries and, on
the other hand, preserves the obligation to form
a theoretical and artistic stock of knowledge as-
sociated with a series of experimental activities
meant to directly connect the students to the
public and future beneciaries of their work.
The National Art University, Bucharest
(UNAB) the Fashion Department, conducted by
professor doctor Unda Popp, had worked in a new
formula, in modules, for several years, making
the students familiar with different domains and
work methods, however they are all related to
13
Doina Berchin n atelier, 2013
Doina Berchin in studio, 2013
14
their future education and professional condition.
It is about a benecial and useful perspective in a
continuously changing world, which appreciates
pluralism, interdisciplinarity, multiqualication
more than anything else. The students opportu-
nities are extremely diverse, just like the present
Romanian fashion which is various and polymor-
phous. The postgraduate development of more
graduates is going to be a slalom among already
consolidated groups and a dangerous balancing
according to the preferences and culture of the
public and clientele.
The suggestions and work style of each profes-
sor are not concurential but complementary. Each
of them comes with his own artistic and life experi-
ence, exposed simultaneously with the course, for
the students who will analyse what theyve found
and experimented. The mixture of alternatives rep-
resents a complex and extremely precious offer,
especially in a social context with such a confused
system of values. The imitation of a single model or
the development guided by a single master oppose
to the development of ones creative personality
by collecting the compatible elements from each
course. This stimulated the development of the Na-
tional University of Arts, Bucharest, and the subse-
quent development of different personalities such
as Venera Arapu, Liliana uroiu, Lena Criveanu,
Wilhelmina Artz, Iris erban, Irina Marinescu, Ade-
lina Ivan, Alexandra Calafeteanu, Sandra Galan,
Lana Dumitru, Ioana Ciolacu, Alex Tunsu.
UNAB is the only place in the country where
the students could practically access the costume
performing simultaneously with its international
promotion. This is also the place where fash-
ion is studied through a continous rappel to the
history of culture and art not only through the
techniques used in the composition and execu-
tion of some fashion collections meant for sale.
Fashion is permanently approached, understood
and studied as art, without ignoring the aspects
connected to all the other jobs and industries.
Crisis, as well as the new Eco tendencies, im-
posed a new orientation: the creative recycling,
respectively REFASHIONED, highly practised at
the New York school. The Fashion Department
of the National University of Arts Bucharest was
synchronous and even outran these global pre-
occupations for the preservation of nature, the
vorba de o deschidere de perspectiv benec
i util ntr-o lume n schimbare, care aprecia-
z mai mult ca orice pluralismul, interdiscipli-
naritatea, policalicarea. Drumurile deschise n
faa studenilor sunt extrem de diverse, aa cum
variat i polimorf e i lumea modei romneti
actuale. Parcursul postuniversitar al multora
dintre absolveni va un slalom printre grupri
deja consolidate i o echilibristic periculoas, n
funcie de gustul i cultura publicului vizat i a
clientelei (comenzilor) obinute.
Propunerile i stilul de lucru al ecrui pro-
fesor nu sunt concureniale, ci complementare.
Fiecare vine cu propria lui experien artistic
i de via pe care o prezint n timpul cursului,
studenilor care ulterior vor cntri ce din ceea
ce au aat i experimentat n cadrul programei
li se potrivete. Mozaicul de alternative este o
ofert complex i extrem de preioas, mai ales
ntr-un peisaj social cu un sistem de valori att
de bulversat ca la noi. Imitrii unui singur mo-
del sau creterii la umbra unui singur maestru i se
opune dezvoltarea propriei personaliti creative
prin culegerea elementelor compatibile din ecare
curs. Tocmai de aceea a fost posibil formarea n
UNAB i dezvoltarea ulterioar a unor personaliti
att de diferite precum: Venera Arapu, Lilia-
na uroiu, Lena Criveanu, Wilhelmina Artz, Iris
erban, Irina Marinescu, Adelina Ivan, Alexandra
Calafeteanu, Sandra Galan, Lana Dumitru, Ioana
Ciolacu, Alex Tunsu.
UNAB este singurul loc din ar unde studenii
au putut practic accesa, concomitent cu lansarea
sa n plan internaional, performing-ul de costum.
Tot aici moda e studiat printr-un rapel continuu
la istoria culturii i artei, i nu doar sub aspec-
tul tehnicilor de compunere i executare a unor
colecii vestimentare destinate vnzrii. Adic
moda este n permanen tratat, neleas i
studiat ca art, fr a neglija ns aspectele le-
gate de toate celelalte meserii i industrii ale ei.
Criza, dar i noile tendine Eco au impus o
nou orientare: reciclarea creativ, respectiv RE-
FASHIONED, practicat cu mult determinare n
coala de prol de la New York. Departamentul
Mod al UNAB a fost sincron i chiar a devan-
sat aceste preocupri mondiale pentru prezerva-
rea naturii, economisirea resurselor i exersarea
creativitii n aceste direcii.
15
saving of resources and the practice of creativity
in these areas.
Just like woodwork or tinsmithing or even
small sculpturing are not similar to the object de-
sign, the clothing design does not mean tailoring,
luxurious or not. There are many people in Roma-
nia who make this confusion. It certainly means
conception, projection and the careful supervision
of the execution. The fashion designer means a
lot more than those present at the very begin-
ning, only few of them will enjoy their nancial
success or celebrity, and this no longer depends
on school. The implication of young students in
different types of experiments, their engagement
in new projects, their connection with new ideas
considered from various perspectives, or the ex-
perimentation of some concrete situations related
to their future profession represent a new type of
education and a modern form of training.
And whether the clothing design represents
a conception or projection, contemporary fash-
ion represents a particular MESSAGE. In order to
obtain, formulate and transmit it, we need some
previous cultural acquisitions, and to facilitate its
decoding by the public we need some visual edu-
cation and something more. School cannot offer
talent to its students, only the tools needed to
subsequently chasten and improve.
It is the crisis, but also a circle of other fac-
tors which will contribute, in the very close fu-
ture, to the replacement of the classical live fash-
ion parades with fashion video-clips, a distinct
artistic genre, which emphasizes fashion by us-
ing another type of language. The theatrical one
is replaced with the cinematographic and digital
one. Visionary again, the University of Arts has
already got a little archive of such productions;
some of these collective, others BA works, certi-
fying a considerable and brave pioneerdom.
In the society of consumption, the artist is
considered a service provider and he is treated
like one. Consecration and notoriety come later
and harder... or never. However, this must not
cast one down. The graduate of this faculty
will keep working, according to the context, for
townsfolk, politicians, cocottes, bourgeois land-
lords, parvenus, ne intellectuals, hipsters, cler-
ics, provincial people, corporatists, or members
of the Royal House. Buonarroti was also a tailor-
Aa cum tmplria sau tinichigeria, sau chiar
sculptura mic nu sunt totuna cu designul de
obiect aa nici designul vestimentar nu e doar cro-
itorie, e ea i de lux. Muli n Romnia fac aceast
confuzie. Design nseamn concepie, proiectare
i supravegherea atent a execuiei. Creator de
mod nseamn mult mai mult i din cei aliniai
la start doar civa vor avea succes nanciar sau
celebritate, i asta nu mai depinde de coal. Ex-
punerea tinerilor studioi n timpul procesului de
nvmnt la diferite tipuri de experimente, an-
trenarea lor n proiecte inedite, punerea n con-
tact cu idei noi privite din diferite perspective, sau
exersarea unor situaii concrete n care profesia
aleas i va putea pune n viitor reprezint un tip
nou de educaie i o form modern de pregtire.
i dac designul vestimentar nseamn
concepie, proiectare, moda contemporan n-
seamn mai ales MESAJ. Pentru a-l obine, for-
mula i transmite e nevoie n prealabil de multe
achiziii culturale, iar pentru a face posibil desci-
frarea lui de ctre public mai e nevoie de educaie
vizual i nu numai. coala nu poate oferi talent
absolvenilor, ci doar instrumentele necesare ci-
zelrii i valoricrii lui ulterioare.
Tot criza, dar poate i ali factori vor contribui
n viitorul foarte apropiat la nlocuirea clasicelor
prezentri de mod live cu videoclipuri fashion,
gen artistic distinct, care poate pune n valoa-
re creaiile vestimentare, folosind un alt tip de
limbaj. Este nlocuit cel teatral, al podiumului, cu
cel cinematograc i cel digital. Din nou vizionar,
colectivul UNAB are deja o mic arhiv de astfel
de producii, unele creaii colective, altele lucrri
de Licen, care vor sta mrturie unui apreciabil
i ndrzne pionierat.
n societatea de consum artistul e considerat
un prestator de servicii i tratat ca atare. Con-
sacrarea, notorietatea vin mai trziu i mai greu
uneori niciodat. Asta ns nu trebuie s descu-
rajeze. Absolventul de la Arte va lucra, dup caz,
pentru trgovei, politicieni, cocote, burghezi,
parvenii, intelectuali ni, hipst-eri, clerici, pro-
vinciali, corporatiti, sau membri ai Casei Regale.
i Buonarroti a lucrat la comand! Nu asta e pro-
blema! Pn la urm nu intereseaz pentru cine
lucrezi i uneori nici mcar n ce condiii. Contea-
z doar dac ceea ce faci este oper, eventual
capodoper.
16
edina foto a profesorilor din cadrul Departamentului Mod, cu accesorii vestimentare din Colecia Adina Nanu, 2014
The photo session of the Fashion Department professors with Alina Nanu clothing accessories, 2014
17
18
Scurt istorie personal
Brief personal history
I used to read Adina Nanu before 1989. I
must say that back then reading was trendy.
Everybody was reading! If you read (showing
respect for the previous values) you could learn
and understand much more. Among other things,
that the discovery of a new domain of activity
could be an adventure full of satisfaction. For
me, a philosophy graduate, this was represented
by fashion, the stage and its coulisses. I invited
Unda Popp, together with her students, to the
Magic of Fashion in 1999, without knowing that
she was Adinas daughter. This was the way I met
students Alina Griga and Rzvan Vasilescu, today
lecturers at the University of Arts, the Fashion
Department. The TV show from Cazino Victoria
was an outstanding example in the anthology of
Romanian fashion. Then, Mrs. Nanu honoured me
with her presence and support when I launched
my little subjective fashion dictionary published
at Nemira Publishing House.
Venera Arapu and Liliana uroiu were also
young designers promoted at the Magic of Fash-
ion and Radiofashion.
Professors Paula Barbu and Ioana Avram
had already been my invited guests at the radio
centre given their activity in the domain. Aurelia
Pomponiu participated with her creation in FEM-
FEST, a complex event dedicated to women, also
presented at the Radio Room.
I met Doina Lucanu, Sergiu Chihaia, Oana
Roca, Alex Mrginean, Matei Arnutu, Gic Pre-
da and Liliana Ifrim later, when I conrmed their
invitation to teach a course of Image and com-
munication strategies in fashion at the UNAB.
About my students: Lana Dumitru, Ioana Ciol-
acu, tefana Maior, Alex Tunsu, from my rst class-
es I was aware they were going to have a strong
word to say in the profession they have chosen.
Pe Adina Nanu o citeam nainte de 1989.
Trebuie precizat c pe atunci cititul era n
trend. Toat lumea citea! Procednd aa (cu
respect adic fa de valorile anterioare) puteai
aa, i mai ales nelege, foarte multe. ntre
altele i c descoperirea oricrui nou dome-
niu de activitate poate o aventur plin de
satisfacii. Pentru mine, absolvent de lozoe,
aceasta a fost moda, scena i culisele ei. Pe
Unda Popp am invitat-o, mpreun cu studenii
cu care lucra atunci, la Magia Modei n 1999,
fr s tiu n momentul respectiv c este i-
ca Adinei. Aa i-am cunoscut pe studenii Alina
Griga i Rzvan Vasilescu, azi lectori la UNAB,
Departamentul Mod. Spectacolul televizat de
la Cazino Victoria a fost unul de referin pen-
tru o antologie a modei romneti. Apoi, doam-
na Nanu m-a onorat cu prezena i susinerea
la lansarea micului meu Dicionar Subiectiv de
Mod, aprut la editura Nemira.
Venera Arapu i Liliana uroiu au fost la rn-
dul lor tineri designeri promovai la Magia Modei
i la Radiofashion.
Profesoarele Paula Barbu i Ioana Avram fu-
seser deja de mai multe ori invitatele mele la
radio, pentru rezultatele activiii lor n domeniu.
Aurelia Pomponiu a participat cu creaiile sale la
FEM-FEST, eveniment complex dedicat femeilor,
desfurat tot la Sala Radio.
Pe Doina Lucanu, Sergiu Chihaia, Oana
Roca, Alex Mrginean, Matei Arnutu, Gic
Preda i Liliana Ifrim i-am cunoscut mai trziu,
cnd am rspuns invitaiei de a susine la UNAB
un curs de Strategii de imagine i comunicare
n Mod.
Despre studenii mei: Lana Dumitru, Ioana
Ciolacu, tefana Maior, Alex Tunsu am tiut nc
de la primele ore de curs c vor avea ceva de
spus n meseria aleas.
La UNAB Departamentul Mod exist
o echip bine construit, clit n timp, ro-
dat n evenimente extracolare n folosul
comunitii. O echip care i face cu discreie
i contiinciozitate treaba, ignornd elegant
adversitile de conjunctur, dar i dicultile
made! That is not a problem! Finally, it does not
really matter who you work for and sometimes
the circumstances do not matter either. It is only
the work, perhaps a masterpiece, that matters.
19
care inerent apar pe traseu. Cu mijloace mate-
riale puine, cei de aici au reuit performana
unor realizri remarcate de unii, exploatate
de alii, greu de trecut cu vederea ns, mai
ales pentru cunosctori i profesioniti reali.
Studenii notri care au beneciat de burse n
strintate, ca i studenii strini venii n vi-
zit au apreciat eforturile care se fac pentru
a transmite ct mai multe lucruri utile celor
angajai n dicilul drum al devenirii unui crea-
tor performant.
Acum, acestei echipe i s-a alturat i
doamna Adina Cezar, coregraf cu experien
internaional, care va participa la concretizarea
unor experimente interesante. Aniversarea celor
150 de ani de existen a colii de arte i gsete
pe cei de la Design Vestimentar pregtii pentru
noi realizri spectaculoase.
At UNAB the Fashion Department there is a
well constructed team, strengthened in time and
polished in extracurricular events to artistically
support the community. One which keeps working
dilligently and discretely, ignoring the adversity but
also the emerging difculties in an elegant way.
With few material means, these people realized a
lot of performances noticed by some and exploit-
ed by others difcult to ignore especially by real
professionals. Our students, who beneted from
scholarships abroad, like the foreign students,
who came to visit, appreciated the efforts made to
convey more useful things to those engaged in the
difcult way of a performing creator.
Mrs. Adina Cezar, an internationally known
choreographer, has also joined the team, and she
will take part in the accomplishment of some in-
teresting experiments. The 150th anniversary of
the art school nds those belonging to the Cloth-
ing Design Department ready to achieve spec-
tacular performances.
Cu Venera Arapu i Liliana uroiu, 2013
With Venera Arapu and Liliana uroiu, 2013
20
EMI
The Research Centre named Event Fashion
Image (EMI) is still an interesting initiative of
the Fashion Department Clothing Design. In
this context they initiated courses for those inter-
ested in the universe of fashion.
The EMI program represents the simplied
and concentrated variant of the courses devel-
oped during a whole academic year at the Fash-
ion Department of the UNAB.
It comprises the following courses:
THE ROLE OF COSTUMES IN THE EXPRES-
SION OF HUMAN BODIES
Coordinator: prof. dr. Unda Popp
The course focuses on each artistic genre in
which the human body has become an artistic
sign in the elaboration of the general composi-
tion. After a short introduction in performing arts
emphasizing the unconventional artistic manifes-
tations, students will practise a number of exer-
cises to read the human appearance.
It concentrates on the analysis of different
modalities used to modify human appearance
starting from the everyday clothes to the cer-
emonial and performing costumes to acquire the
clothes visual langage.
The COSTUME PERFORMING
Coordinator: prof. dr. Unda Popp
This interdisciplinary artistic genre can be
found at the limit between disguised art, theatre
and dancing.
The course will place the costume performing
among the events which are generically dened
as arts of action, besides all the unconventional
artistic forms lasting for a certain time: real time
work, time base action, Live Art, Happening. In
the context of these manifestations the costume
had become an artistic sign in the show and is
meant to characterize the characters.
THE HISTORY OF THE COSTUME
Coordinator: prof. dr. Unda Popp
The course suggests the integration of the
costume in the visual arts, considering it a mo-
dality of artistic expression which can be used
by everybody, provided with a great capacity
to coagulate the essence of each epoch in the
EMI
Centrul de cercetare Eveniment Mod Ima-
gine (EMI) este nc o iniiativ interesant a
Departamentului Mod Design Vestimentar. n
cadrul acestuia au fost iniiate cursuri pentru cei
din afara colii, preocupai de universul fashion.
Programa EMI reprezint varianta simplica-
t i condensat a cursurilor care se desfoar
pe parcursul unui an universitar n Departamen-
tul Mod al UNAB.
Aceste cursuri sunt urmtoarele:
ROLUL COSTUMULUI N EXPRESIVIZAREA
CORPULUI UMAN
Coordonator: prof. univ. dr. Unda Popp
Cursul are n vedere toate genurile artis-
tice n care trupul uman a devenit semn plas-
tic n elaborarea compoziiei generale. Dup
o scurt introducere n artele spectacolului,
cu accentul pus pe manifestrile artistice ne-
convenionale, se vor face exerciii de citire a
nfirii umane.
Vor analizate diferitele modaliti de modi-
care ale nfirii umane, ncepnd cu hainele
cotidiene i pn la costumele de ceremonial i
de spectacol, n vederea stpnirii limbajului vi-
zual de comunicare al vemintelor.
PERFORMING-UL DE COSTUM
Coordonator: prof. univ. dr. Unda Popp
Acest gen artistic interdisciplinar se a la
grania dintre arta costumar, teatru i dans.
Cursul va plasa Performing-ul de costum n
rndul evenimentelor numite generic arte ale
aciunii, alturi de toate formele artistice necon-
venionale care au un anumit timp de desfu-
rare: real time work, time base action, Live Art,
Happening. n cadrul acestor manifestri cos-
tumul a devenit semn plastic n spectacol i are
rolul de a caracteriza personajele.
ISTORIA COSTUMULUI
Coordonator: prof. univ. dr. Unda Popp
Cursul i propune integrarea costumului n
rndul artelor vizuale, considerndu-l o modali-
tate de exprimare artistic la ndemna tuturor,
dar cu o mare capacitate de a coagula n imagi-
nea uman propus, chintesena ecrei epoci.
Cursul va prezenta modalitile de nvemn-
21
tare n ordine cronologic, astfel nct s se ne-
leag procesele de transformare costumar de la
o perioad la alta, motivele apariiei, modicrile,
paii mai mici sau mai mari prin care hainele s-au
schimbat odat cu diferitele societi sau civiliza-
ii. Costumul secolului al XX-lea se va prezenta
att din punct de vedere al modei, ct i al sce-
nei, cu referiri la istoria teatrului i a lmului.
Se vor studia modalitile de nvemntare
specice manifestrilor neconvenionale de la
avangarda artistic a secolului al XX-lea i pn
astzi.
SIMBOLURI I MESAJE N VESTIMENTAIE
Coordonator: conf. univ. dr. Doina Lucanu
Disciplina urmrete aprofundarea aptitudi-
nilor de operare n aria dezvoltrii de concept.
Depirea funciei pur estetice a costumu-
lui (ansamblului vestimentar), provocnd valori
creative bazndu-se pe principiile experimentu-
lui, coexistena limbajelor (o abordare din per-
spectiva Postmodernismului), realizndu-se o
sintez de aplicaii i limbaje ct mai persona-
le, disciplina urmrind dezvoltarea abilitilor n
concordan cu cerinele contemporane.
VOLUMETRIE I TRANSPUNERE N TRIDI-
MENSIONAL
Coordonator: conf. univ. dr. Paula Barbu
Cursul i propune o abordare creativ de
realizare a vemintelor, pornind de la forme ge-
ometrice simple sau de la tiparele de baz prin
supradimensionri sau repoziionri.
RESTAURARE COSTUM
Coordonator: conf. univ. dr. Aurelia Pomponiu
Experiena personal de restaurator n do-
meniul Artelor Textile, n ar i n strintate,
este cea de la care s-a pornit n conceperea
acestui curs. Acesta urmrete s dea posibilita-
tea absolvenilor s profeseze n acest domeniu
slab reprezentat n Romnia.
TEORIA CONCEPERII I IMPLEMENTRII
COLECIEI DE MOD
Coordonator: lect. univ. dr. Ioana Avram
Cursul este unul dintre suporturile de baz
ale formrii profesionitilor n domeniul creaiei
de mod. Obiectivul principal al acestui curs este
de a forma specialiti capabili s conceap, s
dezvolte i s implementeze profesionist colecii
sau imagine de mod compatibile cu cerinele
internaionale.
proposed human image.
The course will present the dressing modalities
in a chronological order to facilitate the compre-
hension of costumes from a period to another, its
emergence, modications, the slow or fast evolu-
tion of clothes in different societies or civilizations.
The costume of the 20th century will be presented
from the perspective of fashion and stage, with
references to the history of theatre and lm.
Students will study the dressing methods spe-
cic to the unconvetional manifestations in the ar-
tistic avant-garde starting with the 20th century.
SYMBOLS AND MESSAGES IN FASHION
Coordinator: lecturer dr. Doina Lucanu
The discipline aims to present and deepen
the study of operative skills in the context of con-
cept development.
It goes beyond the purely aesthetic function
of the costume (the clothing ensemble), stimu-
lating creative values by relying on experimental
principles, the co-existence of languages (an ap-
proach from the perspective of postmodernism),
realizing a synthesis of personal applications and
languages; the subject considers the development
of abilities according to contemporary demands.
VOLUMETRY AND TRANSPOSITION IN TRI-
DIMENSIONAL
Coordinator: lecturer dr. Paula Barbu
The course suggests a creative approach in
the achievement of clothes starting from simple
geometrical forms or the main patterns by means
of oversizings and reconsiderations.
COSTUME RESTORATIONS
Coordinator: lecturer dr. Aurelia Pomponiu
The personal restoring experience in the do-
main of textile arts, in the country and abroad,
has been the stimulating factor of this course.
This is meant to provide students with the op-
portunity to work in this domain which is slightly
represented in Romania.
THE THEORY REGARDING THE CONCEP-
TION AND IMPLEMENTATION OF FASHION COL-
LECTIONS
Coordinator: lecturer dr. Ioana Avram
The course is aimed to mainly support the
development of professionals in the domain of
fashion. The main objective of this course is to
form specialists who are able to conceive, de-
velop and implement fashion collections and im-
22
CONCEPT STILISTIC I COORDONAREA
COLECIEI DE MOD
Coordonator: lect. univ. dr. Ioana Avram
Aceast disciplin de specialitate are ca
obiectiv nal crearea de abiliti (pe baza unor
situaii reale sau simulate) care permit denirea
i adoptarea unui concept stilistic, care poate ge-
nera produse sau seturi de produse din domeniul
modei vestimentare, precum i exprimarea i re-
alizarea lui ntr-o colecie de mod compatibil cu
standardele de consum de mod. Ne propunem
s realizm familiarizarea studenilor cu elemen-
te de practic profesional: capacitatea de asu-
mare a propriilor idei i nalizarea lor conform
proiectului; cunoaterea i utilizarea standardelor
de consum de mod; managementul creativ al
coleciei de mod; realizarea coleciilor de mod.
ANTREPRENORIAT N DESIGNUL VESTI-
MENTAR
Coordonator: lect. univ. dr. Liliana uroiu
Panou la anul III, Departamentul Mod, 2013
Pannel, third year students, the Fashion Department, 2013
ages compatible with international demands in a
professional way.
STYLISTIC CONCEPTS AND THE COORDINA-
TION OF FASHION COLLECTIONS
Coordinator: lecturer dr. Ioana Avram
The nal objective of this subject is to cre-
ate abilities (focused on real or simulated situa-
tions) permitting the denition and adoption of
a stylistic concept, which can generate products
or sets of products in the domain of fashion, and
to express and realize this in a fashion collection
which is compatible with fashions standards of
consumption. We aim to make students familiar
with the elements of professional practice: the
capacity to assume personal ideas and their -
nalization according to the project; the usage of
fashions standards of consumption; the creative
management of fashion collections; the achieve-
ment of fashion collections.
ENTREPRENEURSHIP IN FASHION DESIGN
23
Moda este un sistem care reunete resurse
materiale, capital uman i viziune artistic ntr-un
singur articol de mbrcminte.
Cursul Antreprenoriat n designul vestimen-
tar va permite cursanilor s gseasc soluii
strategice proprii pentru dezvoltarea unor planuri
de afaceri, folosindu-i creativitatea, spiritul an-
treprenorial i experiena dobndit anterior.
Cursul este potrivit pentru o multitudine de
posibili cursani de la tineri absolveni pn la
profesioniti aai la mijlocul carierei i manageri
ai unor rme care folosesc n mod curent ele-
mente din domeniul designului.
Se va insista foarte mult pe importana pro-
iectrii unui produs sau a unei colecii vestimen-
tare i se vor exemplica modaliti de lucru
pornind de la tendine, lifestyle, descoperind in-
strumente specice precum mood board-ul, sto-
ryboard-ul, schiele, texturile, tiparele i ncheind
cu tipuri de ambalare, expunere i promovare.
Cursuri n cadrul EMI, 2013
EMI courses, 2013
Coordinator: lecturer dr. Liliana uroiu
Fashion represents a system which reunites
the material resources, human capital and artistic
vision into a single item of clothing.
The course we refer to, Entrepreneurship in
fashion design, aims to permit the students to nd
their own strategic solutions in order to develop
some business plans by using the creativity, entre-
preneurial spirit and experience gained before.
The course is appropriate for a multitude of
possible students, from young graduates to pro-
fessionals in mid-career and the managers of
some rms, who currently use elements related
to the domain of design.
It will highly approach the projection of a
product or a fashion collection by exemplifying
work modalities starting from trends and life-
style, while nding specic instruments such as
the mood board, storyboard, sketches, textures,
patterns, and completing all this with packing,
24
CONCEPT I EXPRIMARE
Coordonator: lect. univ. dr. Alina Griga
Temele propuse studenilor abordeaz i
dezvolt capacitatea cursantului de a inovator
n vestimentaie. Punctul de plecare este ntot-
deauna conceptul original n cadrul cerinelor
temei propuse de profesor, apoi conectarea sur-
selor de inspiraie i adaptarea lor ntr-o idee de
mod, cu mijloace specice domeniului.
STRATEGII DE COMUNICARE I IMAGINE
N MOD
Coordonator: lect. univ. Doina Berchin
Cursul va familiariza pe viitorii designeri cu
o serie de elemente ce in de tiina comunic-
rii: comunicarea verbal, prin imagini i gestual-
comportamental, pentru ca mesajul coleciei i
al evenimentului de mod s e coerent i eci-
ent. Va crea abiliti de transmitere a mesajelor,
text i verbal plus imagine, de alctuire a unei
mape de pres, de ntreinere a relaiilor cu pre-
sa i cu publicul vizat. Va familiariza studenii
display and promotion types.
CONCEPT AND EXPRESSION
Coordinator: lecturer dr. Alina Griga
The topics suggested to students approach
and develop the capacity of the student to be in-
novative in dressing. The starting point is always
expressed by the original concept according to
the topic recommended by the professor, then
by the connection of the sources of inspiration
and their adjustment into a fashion idea, with the
specic means of the domain.
COMMUNICATION AND IMAGE STRATEGIES
IN FASHION
Coordinator: lecturer Doina Berchin
The course will make the future designers
familiar with a series of elements related to the
science of communication: verbal communica-
tion, images and gesture or behaviour, for the
message of the collection and fashion event to
be coherent and efcient. It will create the abili-
ties needed to convey the messages, in the form
Anul I Licen, Colecia Gaudi, fotograe realizat n cadrul evenimentului Fashion Mob, Sun Plaza, Bucureti, 2012
First year BA student, the Gaudi collection, photo realized as part of the Fashion Mob event, Sun Plaza, Bucharest, 2012
25
cu unele elemente i genuri publicistice, care
in de jurnalismul de mod. Va dezvlui rolul i
importana comunicrii n procesul de branding
i n oricare dintre meseriile existente n sistemul
modei, precum i n promovarea n spaiul media
(scris, TV, virtual etc.) Va prezenta instrumentele
necesare alctuirii unei strategii de comunicare
absolut necesar n acest domeniu de activitate.
COMUNICARE VIZUAL
Coordonator: asist. univ. dr. Alexandru Mr-
ginean
Cursul urmrete descifrarea unor aciuni
specice profesionitilor din domeniul artelor
vizuale: a vedea, a nelege i a mprti sem-
nicaia la un anumit grad de universalitate pre-
vizibil.
TEHNICI DE REPREZENTARE BI I TRIDI-
MENSIONALE COSTUMBRE
Coordonator: asist. univ. dr. Rzvan Vasilescu
Cursul urmrete lrgirea plajei de metode
de exprimare artistic a studentului, ct i apro-
fundarea cunotinelor de istorie a costumului,
prin realizarea unor lucrri practice care s cu-
prind o trimitere ctre un personaj istoric de
referin i o imagine ct mai actual, cu ele-
mente de costum aparinnd ultimelor tendine
ale modei.
TEHNOLOGIA I CONSTRUCIA TIPARULUI
Coordonator: ing. dr. Liliana Ifrim
Cursul, prin coninut i modul de structura-
re, ofer soluii cu caracter tiinic i tehnico-
aplicativ problemelor specice proiectrii mbr-
cmintei tradiionale, din esturi.
PROIECTARE DIGITAL I PRELUCRAREA
COMPUTERIZAT A IMAGINII
Coordonator: lect. univ. drd Matei Arnutu
Cursul i propune s transmit studenilor
noiuni aprofundate despre prelucrarea imaginii
de tip bitmap pe calculator, folosind soft-ul Ado-
be Photoshop, precum i noiuni primare des-
pre generarea imaginilor vectoriale cu ajutorul
soft-ului Adobe Illustrator. Se vor face aplicaii
n domeniul modei.
of texts and verbally, plus the image itself, to set
up a press kit to preserve the connection with
the media and the audience. It will make the
students familiar with publicistic elements and
genres related to fashion journalism. It will re-
veal the role and importance of communication
in the branding process and in any profession in
the system of fashion as well as the promotion
in the media space (written, TV, virtually, etc.)
It will present the instruments needed to set up
a strategy of communication which is absolutely
necessary in this domain of activity.
VISUAL COMMUNICATION
Coordinator: junior lecturer dr. Alexandru
Marginean
The course aims to decode some specic acts
of the professionals in the domain of visual arts.
To see, understand and share the signication at
a certain foreseeable degree of universality.
BI- AND TRIDIMENSIONAL TECHNIQUES OF
REPRESENTATION COSTUMBRE
Coordinator: junior lecturer dr. Rzvan Vasi-
lescu
The course aims to increase the students
range of artistic expression, as well as the im-
provement of historical knowledge concerning
the costume by realizing some practical works
meant to comprise a reference to a specic his-
torical character and an actual image with cos-
tume elements belonging to the latest fashion
tendencies.
THE TECHNOLOGY AND CONSTRUCTION OF
PATTERNS
Coordinator: eng. dr. Liliana Ifrim
Through its content and structure, the course
provides scientic and technical solutions to the
problems specic to the design of traditional
clothing, made of fabric.
DIGITAL PROJECTION AND THE COMPUTER-
IZED PROCESSING OF IMAGES
Coordinator: junior lecturer drd. Matei
Arnutu
The course aims to transmit the students
some complex notions about the bitmap image
processing on the computer by using the Adobe
Photoshop program, as well as primary notions
regarding the generation of vectorial images in
the Adobe Illustrator program. Applications in the
domain of fashion are going to be carried out.
26
Unda POPP
profesor universitar doctor
coordonator al Departamentului Mod
professor doctor
the Fashion Department coordinator
27
ntotdeauna mi imaginez c ideile i gn-
durile care m bntuie pe mine se vor coagula
ntr-un fel diferit n imaginile realizate de stu-
deni, i ntr-adevr, de ecare dat tinerii m
uimesc cu cte ceva care mi-a scpat sau cu
simpla lor abordare reasc i deconcertant.
Oricum, ideile circul de la mine la ei, apoi ntre
ei, de la unul la altul i napoi la mine, ca ntr-un
scurtcircuit cu un traseu total neprevzut i cu
efecte din cele mai nebnuite.
Sistemul neconcurenial n care este orga-
nizat Departamentul Mod face ca de cele mai
multe ori profesorii (specializai pe direcii diferi-
te) s intre i ei unul n jocul celuilalt, ducnd o
idee mai departe sau n alt parte, fapt ce con-
stituie un excelent mod de conlucrare creativ i
un bun exemplu la care particip vrnd-nevrnd
toi studenii.
Am ales s ilustrez performing-ul de costum,
aceast preocupare constant n cercetarea mea,
pe care o consider extrem de util n parcursul
formrii artistice a studenilor de la Mod, prin
dou teme diferite: una mai aproape de zona
spectacolului (de teatru sau de dans), prin impu-
nerea unui scenariu Buna Vestire i o alta, n
care aciunea este determinat strict de imaginea
vemintelor DeConFashion.
n ambele cazuri interdisciplinaritatea con-
Performing-ul de costum
sau cum i dai via
unei teme de coal
I have always imagined that my ideas and
thoughts are going to coagulate differently in the
students images and, in good sooth, the young
people keep surprising me with some details I
have missed, or with their natural and disconcert-
ing approach. However, ideas circulate, from me
to them, then among them, from one to another,
then back to me, like in a shortcut provided with
a completely unpredictable route and the most
unexpected effects.
The non-competitive system, in which the
Fashion Department is organised, makes the
professors (who are specialised in different ar-
eas), accept each others challenge by further
developing an idea, or from another viewpoint,
which represents an excellent way of creative co-
operation and a good example which is nally
respected by all students.
I have decided to illustrate the costume per-
forming, a constant preoccupation in my research,
which I consider extremely useful in the artistic
evolution of the students attending the Fashion
classes by means of two different themes: the
former, much closer to the performance zone
(theatre or dance), by imposing a scenario the
Annunciation and the latter, in which the action
is strictly determined by the image of garments
DeConFashion.
The costume performance
or how can you render life
to a school topic
28
Isabela Toader, Buna Vestire, 2013
Isabela Toader, Annunciation, 2013
29
edina foto, Buna Vestire, 2013
Photo session Annunciation, 2013
30
In both cases interdisciplinarity represents the
essential work method approached by students
in challenging projects and events. The studio
themes were followed by photo sessions (with
Alexandru Mrginean, Gic Preda and Gelu Ser-
ceniuc), motion exercises (with Adina Cezar) and
they became the pretext of some lm copyright
like the one signed by Gelu Serseniuc.
The Annunciation belongs to a series of ex-
ercises expressing creativity through the image
achieved by the transgured human body through
the agency of garments, certainly in motion.
Each time the pretext reveals some history,
that is well imprinted in the memory of every-
one, who is both a creator and a viewer. In the
costume performing the story and the scenario
are essential in the organisation of events. Fur-
thermore, since the whole history is related only
through images, the subject must be very gen-
eral and easy to recognise.
The presence of some powerful feelings
regarding the scenarios heroes, no matter if
they are positive or negative, makes the char-
acters description, by means of their costume,
much easier.
The conception of garments determines a
clarication of some extremely different messages
conveyed by each student through the image of
his body by means of typology, proportions and
corporality (beyond desires or the ideal of beauty,
which everybody is related to during a given pe-
riod of time).
Through its construction, form and volume,
each costume claims for a certain type of motion,
settled as far as possible from the common forms
of the classical or modern dance or the pantoni-
mas. The exploration of the most appropriate ex-
pressions to emphasise the costume and the cre-
ated character extends beyond the production of
garments thus the interpretation can change from
a representation to another by essentially contrib-
uting to the uniqueness of the performance.
The nal goal is to obtain an original event,
to incite the public to a wider range of interpre-
tations according to the sensibility, culture and
experience of each.
The Angel and the Holy Virgin, a couple which
had been largely represented in the paintings of
stituie modalitatea de lucru esenial n care
studenii sunt antrenai n proiecte i evenimen-
te ct mai provocatoare. Temele de atelier au
fost urmate de edine foto (cu Alexandru Mr-
ginean, Gic Preda i Gelu Serseniuc), de exer-
ciii de micare (cu Adina Cezar) i au devenit
pretextul unor lme de autor, aa cum a fost cel
semnat de Gelu Serseniuc.
Buna Vestire face parte dintr-o serie de exer-
ciii de exprimare a creativitii, prin intermediul
imaginii realizat de corpul uman, transgurat
prin prezena vemntului i aat neaprat n
aciune (n micare).
Pretextul este de ecare dat o istorie foarte
bine ntiprit n memoria tuturor, creator i privi-
tor n egal msur. Pentru performing-ul de cos-
tum povestea i scenariul sunt eseniale n orga-
nizarea manifestrii. i pentru c ntreaga istorie
se spune doar prin intermediul imaginii, subiectul
tratat trebuie s e foarte general, unanim cunos-
cut i uor de recunoscut.
Prezena unor sentimente puternice vizavi de
eroii scenariului (indiferent dac sunt pozitive sau
negative) face mai uoar caracterizarea perso-
najelor prin costum.
Conceperea vemintelor pe propriul trup de-
termin o claricare a mesajelor extrem de di-
ferite, pe care ecare student le transmite prin
imaginea corpului su, prin tipologia, proporiile,
corporalitatea sa (dincolo de dorina sau idealul
de frumusee la care toat lumea se raporteaz
ntr-o anumit perioad).
Fiecare costum impune prin construcie, for-
m, volum un anume gen de micare, ct mai
departe de formele uzuale ale dansului clasic,
modern sau de pantomim. Cutarea celei mai
nimerite expresii, pentru a pune n valoare cos-
tumul i deci personajul creat, se ntmpl s se
prelungeasc dincolo de producia vemintelor,
astfel nct interpretarea se poate schimba de la
o reprezentaie la alta, contribuind major la unici-
tatea performanei.
Scopul nal este obinerea unui eveniment
original, care s incite publicul la ct mai multe
interpretri n funcie de sensibilitatea, cultura i
experiena ecruia.
ngerul i Fecioara, un cuplu care a fost att
de mult reprezentat n picturile marilor maetri
31
Denis Oan, Silviu Gruianu, Buna Vestire, 2013
Denis Oan, Silviu Gruianu, Annunciation, 2013
32
Constana Balaban, Buna Vestire, 2013
Constana Balaban, Annunciation, 2013
33
great Renaissance masters, Fra Angelico, Piero
della Francesca, Leonardo da Vinci, constitute the
starting point of this performance.
The general idea regarding the mystery of life
and a way to communicate it had to be transposed
in more or less actual, more or less conventional
garments. Each student was free to choose the
most eloquent image in order to catch and trans-
mit the accomplishment of the miracle.
Whether for the Renaissance people the an-
gel was surely a beloved character, a patronal
authority and a presence desired by every indi-
vidual, nowadays the connection between man
and angels seems to be more difcult to imagine
and represent.
The angel was seen as a fantastic character,
approached without too much closeness or love,
mostly similar to a bird of prey.
And whether the Angel does no longer belong
to our everyday life, the innocent Virgin had not
been a character the young women could have
liked to identify with either.
The Angel, representing the messenger, was
approached more dynamically while the Virgin
was seen as a passive character and remained in
the background.
The deliberate distancing and convention
made these costumes be generally conceived in a
theatrical manner.
Emotions and mysteries either vanish or can
be hardly translated into the image of an outt.
Conversely, surprise represented the essen-
tial element stimulating the ideas in order to nd
solutions. Surprise had been the only element
which stayed actual. We got used to cope with
it daily and everywhere, when we watched the
images on billboards, when we saw the com-
mercials on TV screens, or when we admired the
works of contemporary art. Shock was the factor
which replaced the magic atmosphere we had
expected in vain.
The angels were placed in the middle of
streets surprising the pedestrians who were
crossing a large boulevard. Thus, the best solu-
tions developed when placing the Angel (emerged
from the future, a sort of SF) into the present
urban context.
Both the Angel and the Virgin lost their ini-
renascentiti Fra Angelico, Piero della Francesca,
Leonardo da Vinci, a constituit punctul de pornire
al acestui performing.
Ideea general a misterului vieii i mo-
dalitatea comunicrii lui trebuiau transpuse n
veminte mai mult sau mai puin actuale, mai
mult sau mai puin convenionale. Fiecare stu-
dent a avut libertatea de a alege imaginea cea
mai elocvent, pentru a surprinde i a transmite
nfptuirea minunii.
Dar dac pentru oamenii Renaterii ngerul
era cu siguran un personaj ndrgit, o autori-
tate ocrotitoare i o prezen dorit de ecare
individ n preajma sa, relaia om-nger n prezent
pare s e mult mai greu de imaginat i de re-
prezentat.
ngerul a fost vzut ca un personaj fan-
tastic, tratat fr o prea mare apropiere sau
simpatie, semnnd de cele mai multe ori cu o
pasre de prad.
i dac ngerul nu mai face parte de mult
din existena noastr cotidian, nici inocenta Fe-
cioar nu a fost un personaj cu care tinerele au
dorit s se identice.
ngerul reprezentnd mesagerul a fost tratat
mai dinamic, n timp ce Fecioara a fost privit ca
un personaj pasiv i a rmas n plan secund.
Distanarea voit i convenia au fcut ca
aceste costume s e, n general, concepute
ntr-o manier teatral.
Emoia i misterul e nu mai exist, e sunt
foarte greu de tradus ntr-o imagine costumar.
n schimb, surpriza a fost elementul esenial
n jurul creia s-au coagulat ideile i s-au gsit
soluiile. Surpriza este singura care a rmas ac-
tual. Ne-am obinuit s ne confruntm cu ea
zilnic i la tot pasul, atunci cnd privim imaginile
de pe panourile publicitare, cnd vedem recla-
mele transmise pe ecranele televizoarelor sau
cnd admirm lucrrile de art contemporan.
ocul imaginii a fost cel care a suplinit atmosfera
de vraj pe care am ateptat-o zadarnic. ngerii
au fost aezai n mijlocul strzilor, uimind tre-
ctorii care se aau pe un mare bulevard. Cele
mai bune soluii au aprut astfel prin plasarea
ngerului (venit mai curnd din viitor, un fel de
personaj SF) n mediul urban actual.
Dac att ngerul, ct i Fecioara i-au
34 35
Constana Balaban, Buna Vestire, 2013
Constana Balaban, Annunciation, 2013
36
pierdut semnicaia iniial i relaia dintre ei
s-a modicat dramatic. Nici urm de ncredere
sau de comunicare, doar o apropiere forma-
l. Totui, n rarele momente n care aceast
legtur pare s existe, relaia dintre nger i
Fecioar se stabilete prin utilizarea unor ve-
minte foarte asemntoare.
Aa cum Sfntul Gheorghe s-a acoperit cu
solzi ca s pcleasc balaurul pe care trebuia s-l
rpun, tot aa ngerul s-a nvemntat precum
tinerele fete, pentru a mai credibil, sau poate
c Fecioarele din experimentul nostru artistic s-au
mbrcat asemntor cu ngerul care li s-a artat
lor, doar dintr-un exces de bunvoin, pentru a-i
nlesni acestuia comunicarea unei minuni n care
nimeni nu mai crede.
Dup tema Buna Vestire, planicat s e
gata exact la data srbtorii cretine, gndit
ca un performing n care vemintele au fost
schiate ca ntr-o ebo, pentru a privite din
perspectiva conveniei impus de un spectacol
(neconvenional), a urmat o alt tem Patimile
pentru care studenii au lucrat cu Paula Barbu o
colecie de sacouri de o mare acuratee i valoare
artistic, dezvluit publicului ntr-o prezentare de
mod, chiar n preajma Patilor.
Abordarea acestor subiecte religioase a fost
un pretext pentru a demonstra studenilor Depar-
tamentului Mod cum pot transpuse n imagini
costumare idei i concepte venite din zone apa-
rent foarte ndeprtate.
Autorii acestui performing au fost studenii
anului II Master: Constana Balaban, Laura Sma-
randache, Silviu Gruianu, Denis Oan, Isabela
Toader, Serghei Iacenin, Roxana Prvu, Lavinia
Botuanu, Mirela Barbu i Roxana Rusu.
La realizarea proiectului au participat i asis-
tenii Oana Roca i Sergiu Chihaia.
DeConFashion, titlul coleciei, este un joc de
cuvinte inspirat de iniiatorul deconstructivismului
Jacques Derrida. Deconstrucia, Confesiunea i
Moda sunt toate cuprinse n acest cuvnt, stabi-
lind dintr-o singur citire regulile jocului.
DeConFashion este o tem amuzant i apa-
rent facil, n care hainele vechi de care suntem
legai afectiv se transform, la vedere, n alte
veminte. Amplasarea diferit a hainelor pe trup
(ca de pild pantalonii devenii rochie) este una
tial signication and the relationship between
them modied dramatically. No trace of faith
or communication, only some formal closeness.
However, when this connection seems to exist,
the relationship between the Angel and the Vir-
gin is established through the usage of some
very similar garments.
Just like St. George covered himself with scales
to cheat the dragon he was supposed to defeat,
the Angel got dressed like the young women in or-
der to be more credible, or perhaps the Virgins in
our artistic experiment got dressed similarly to the
Angel they saw, only from an excess of goodwill,
to facilitate the communication of some magic
which nobody else believed.
After the Annunciation topic, planned to be
completed until the Christian holiday, considered
as a performing in which the garments were
sketched like in a draft, in order to be watched
from the perspective imposed by a non-conven-
tional show, there was another subject, the Pas-
sions, approached by the students with Paula Bar-
bu, a collection of jackets dened by some high
accuracy and artistic value, revealed to the public
in a fashion performance, close to Easter.
The approach of these religious subjects repre-
sented a reason to provide the students attending
the Fashion Department with the related ideas and
concepts derived from apparently remote areas.
The authors of this performing were the MA
students: Constaa Balaban, Laura Smarandache,
Silviu Gruianu, Denis Oan, Isabela Toader, Seghei
Iacenin, Roxana Prvu, Lavinia Botuanu, Mirela
Barbu and Roxana Rusu.
Two assistants, Oana Rosca and Sergiu Chi-
haia, also took part in the project.
DeConFashion, the collections title, repre-
sents a wordplay inspired by the initiator of de-
constructivism, Jacques Derrida. Deconstruction,
Confession and Fashion are all comprised in this
word, establishing the rules of the game at once.
DeConFashion is an amusing and apparently
facile topic in which the old clothes, they are emo-
tionally related to, transform into other garments.
The different arrangement of clothes (like the
trousers transformed into a dress) is one of the
rst surprising solutions subsequently followed by
the arrangements of classical items in unexpected
37
Raluca Ptru, DeConFashion, 2013
38
Elide Toma, DeConFashion, 2013 Anca Pancu, DeConFashion, 2013
39
combinations, which produce humorous and de-
lightful clothes, according to the authors desire.
Starting from the topicality of Deconstruc-
tivism in Visual Arts, in general, and in Fashion,
in a particular way, each student realized a mini-
collection composed of three fashion outts an-
alysing the development and communication of
some highly original ideas. Each item relates a
certain story through the evident presence of
initial ready-mades, a story continued through
the unusual usage of the elements composing
a garment or through some surprising combi-
nations. The garments are sometimes poetical,
some other times absurd, but each time they
express exciting messages such as those refer-
ring to the conventions delimiting the garments
according to genres.
The students creations were considered and
analysed from the perspective of composition, vol-
umes and chromatic agreements; for each item
the author, together with Adina Cezar, imagined
a certain succession of movements meant to in-
crease the expressiveness of the costume.
The professional mannequins were replaced
by the garments creators, the students attend-
ing the MA 1 classes, assisted by the younger
students who interpreted the characters pro-
posed by their older and more experimented
colleagues enthusiastically.
Beyond this omnipresent game, related to
words and garments, DeConFashion is the theme
we had been suggesting for a long time to our
students, a warming up exercise. The topic is as-
sociated with a very actual and serious direction
slow fashion which tries to stop the fast engine
of the industrial fashion and provide fashion with
a more personal and intellectual character, and
probably that is why it is difcult to be accepted
by the consumer public and the interpreters of Ro-
manian fashion, still inuenced by the tendencies
of commercial fashion.
This preoccupation, focused on the useless
consumerism and creativity, is already found in
the programs of great fashion schools and in the
suggestions of famous fashion designers. In this
respect, I would mention a recent work, Refash-
ioned, published in 2013 by Sass Brown, the dean
of Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, who
din primele soluii surprinztoare, urmat apoi de
asamblri ale pieselor clasice, n combinaii nea-
teptate, care nasc veminte pline de haz sau de
farmec, n funcie de dorina autorului.
Pornind de la actualitatea Deconstructivis-
mului n Artele Vizuale, n general, i n Mod n
special. studenii au realizat ecare cte o mini
colecie format din trei ansambluri vestimentare
urmrind dezvoltarea i transmiterea unor idei ct
mai originale. Fiecare pies spune cte o poveste
prin prezena evident a ready-made-urilor de la
care s-a pornit, poveste dus mai departe prin
utilizarea neobinuit a elementelor care com-
pun o hain sau prin alturrile surprinztoare.
Vemintele realizate sunt uneori poetice, alteori
absurde, dar de ecare dat ncrcate de mesaje
incitante, ca de pild cele referitoare la convenii-
le care delimiteaz vemintele dup gen.
Creaiile studenilor au fost privite i analizate
din punctul de vedere al compoziiei, al volumelor
i al acordurilor cromatice propuse i pentru e-
care pies autorul alturi de Adina Cezar au ima-
ginat o anumit succesiune de micri menite s
sporeasc expresivitatea costumului.
n locul manechinelor profesioniste au fost
creatorii vemintelor, studenii anului 1 Master,
secondai de studenii anilor mici, care au inter-
pretat cu entuziasm personajele propuse de cole-
gii lor mai mari i mai experimentai.
Dincolo de acest joc omniprezent, cu vor-
bele i cu hainele, DeConFashion este o tem
pe care o propunem de civa ani buni ncoace
studenilor, ca pe un exerciiu de nclzire. Tema
se nscrie pe o direcie foarte actual i serioa-
s slow fashion care ncearc s opreasc
tvlugul fast fashionului industrial i s impri-
me modei un caracter mult mai personal, mai
intelectual, i probabil de aceea i mai dicil de
acceptat de publicul consumator i de comenta-
torii modei romneti, aai nc doar sub vraja
tendinelor modei comerciale.
Aceast preocupare de a atrage atenia asu-
pra consumerismului inutil i de a miza pe crea-
tivitate se regsete deja n programele marilor
coli de mod i n propunerile unor fashion de-
signeri consacrai. n acest sens a aminti recenta
lucrare Refashioned, publicat n 2013 de Sass
Brown, decan al Fashion Institute of Technology
40 41
refers to the ethical practice in the fashion design
around the world.
For the present, in the inherent game of their
interdisciplinary experiments, the students of our
department get closer to the major aspects of
fashion and contemporary art.
By proposing these different themes, we en-
courage a holistic approach in order to develop a
complex and powerful artistic personality which is
able to impose his point of view.
The experiment we have described was car-
ried out together with lecturer Sergiu Chihaia,
the MA 1 students: Alina Gurgu, Andrea Pos-
telnicu, Carmen Popa, Laureniu Buglea, Raluca
Mndi, Raluca Ptru, Anamaria Beleag, Irina
Ghizdianu, Anca Pancu, Monica Ivanovici, Ellida
Toma, Gina Casapu, Ruxandra Iosif, Lcrmioara
Crian and Ana Ancua.
din New York, care vorbete despre practici etice
ale designului de mod din lumea ntreag.
Deocamdat, doar n joaca inerent a unor
experimente interdisciplinare studenii departa-
mentului nostru se apropie de aspecte majore ale
modei i artei contemporane.
Prin propunerea acestor teme diferite, ncura-
jm o abordare holistic n ideea dezvoltrii unei
personaliti artistice compexe i puternice, capa-
bil s-i impun punctul de vedere.
Experimentul descris a fost realizat al-
turi de asistentul Sergiu Chihaia, de studenii
anului 1 Master: Alina Gurgu, Andrea Postel-
nicu, Carmen Popa, Laureniu Buglea, Raluca
Mndi, Raluca Ptru, Anamaria Beleag,
Irina Ghizdianu, Anca Pancu, Monica Ivanovici,
Elide Toma, Gina Casapu, Ruxandra Iosif, L-
crmioara Crian i Ana Ancua.
Lcrmioara Crian, DeConFashion, 2013
Raluca Ptru, DeConFashion, 2013
42 43
Andrea Postelnicu, DeConFashion, 2013
44
Paula BARBU
confereniar universitar doctor
senior lecturer doctor
45
Prima ntlnire a fost demult de tot, pe vre-
mea cnd nu nelegeam prea bine ce este moda
i cnd totul se raporta doar la mirajul descoperi-
rilor mele (care n general erau frumoase): mama
mbrcat n stilul anilor 50, care o preschimba
ntr-o div din lmele italiene, revistele cu mo-
dele i tipare dup care i croia tot felul de ve-
minte, jupele apretate care i foneau sub fustele
ample, caietele mele cu desene naive, cu rochii
pline de culorile cmpurilor norate pe care m
jucam toate mi revin n memorie ca nite ash-
uri care fac parte din lmul copilriei mele. M
jucam observnd lumina i umbra, dinamismul i
repausul, ordinea i dezordinea. Toate astea m
captivau, mi ineau mintea permanent ocupat i
le rspundeam prin desen i culoare.
ntmplarea sau destinul a fcut ca dup
coala primar s urmez un liceu de art, unde
am avut ansa s mi dezvolt abilitile artistice
prin desen i culoare i unde am primit primele
noiuni de compoziie, cultur i limbaj plastic.
Revelaia, n ce privete adevrata semni-
caie a modei, a aprut ntr-o zi de var cnd
am descoperit pur i simplu, ntr-o librrie, o
carte care m-a surprins: autoarea avansa ideea
c moda st lng celelalte arte, asemenea lor,
integrndu-se n epoci, stiluri i curente artistice
i reprezentnd statutul social, modul de gndire
i personalitatea oamenilor. Art, stil, costum,
cartea Adinei Nanu, a fost pentru mine ca o pre-
moniie a parcursului meu profesional: dintr-oda-
Trei plrii
pentru ntlnirea cu moda
The rst encounter was a long time ago,
when I could hardly understand the meaning
of fashion, when everything was related only to
the mirage of my ndings (which were gener-
ally beautiful): my mother, dressed like in the
50s, a style which was transforming her into a
diva acting in Italian lms, inuenced by fashion
magazines with patterns and samples, which she
used in order to device all kinds of garments, the
starched petticoats, swishing under her ample
skirts, my notebooks with naive drawings, where
the dresses were displaying the colours of those
ower elds where I used to play all these re-
turn to my mind like some ashes derived from
the lm of my childhood. I was playing while
observing the light and shadows, the dynamism
and repose, the order and disorder... All these
were captivating me, they were always keeping
my mind busy; I replied to these by means of
drawings and colour.
After completing the primary school, I hap-
pened to attend an art high-school, where I had
the chance to develop my artistic skills by means of
drawings and colours, where I got the rst notions
of composition, culture and artistic language.
Regarding the real signication of fashion, my
revelation emerged one summer day when I simply
discovered, in a bookshop, a book which surprised
me: the author stated that fashion can be associ-
ated with other types of art and, just like these,
it integrates in artistic epochs, styles and genres,
Three hats
for the encounter with fashion
46
t, am avut convingerea c tot ce voi ntreprinde
va legat de mod.
i ca totul s e rotund, cnd am ajuns la
facultate, destinul a fcut s m numr ntre
studenii acestei doamne i s fac parte din pri-
mele generaii care absolveau o coal de mod
n cadrul unei instituii de art. Ideea c ntr-o
zi voi face pictur nu m-a prsit niciodat, dei
la vremea aceea nu tiam n ce fel m voi putea
ocupa de ambele profesii, iar pe a treia nici nu
o ntrevedeam
Au urmat ani n care am lucrat ca designer
de mod (o ocupaie pe care nu o gseai n no-
menclatorul meseriilor, nainte de 1990) i am avut
norocul s m specializez n transpunerea n moda
contemporan a elementelor costumului popular
romnesc. Pentru coleciile acelea ignoram toate
greutile acelor vremuri i m bucuram de do-
cumentrile ntr-unele dintre cele mai interesante
Ciclul Marea, acrilic pe pnz, 80 x 240 cm., 2013
The Sea cycle, acrylic on canvas, 80 x 240 cm., 2013
representing the social status, the way of think-
ing and peoples personality. Art, style, costume,
Adinei Nanus book, represented a premonition
during my whole professional development. Sud-
denly, I was convinced that all, that I was meant to
make, was going to be related to fashion.
And, to make it all complete, when I reached
the faculty, I happened to be one of this ladys
students and belong to the rst generations
graduating from a fashion school in the context
of an art institution. The idea that one day I was
going to paint had never abandoned me although
at that time I did not know how I was going to
manage both professions, and the third one... I
didnt even think of...
Subsequently, I worked as a fashion designer
(an occupation you could not nd in the list of
professions before 1990) and I was lucky to spe-
cialize in the transposition of the Romanian folk
47
costume elements in the contemporary fashion.
While concentrating on those collections, I was ig-
noring all the hardships of those times and I was
enjoying the research periods in some of the most
interesting ethnographic areas: Cmpulung Mus-
cel, Breaza, Tismana, Suceava, Braov real cores
of traditional culture stimulating profound feelings
of admiration and respect for the generations of
women who were devloping the idea of beauty.
Those places were sources of inspiration for many
of the clothing items I conceived then and I was
not the only one: the uniqueness and splendour
of some elements composing the Romanian tra-
ditional garment, as well as the peasant womans
skirt, stirred real passions among designers, paint-
ers and sculptors and this strengthens my belief
that our traditional values must be respected and
capitalised to assert our cultural identity.
In the meantime, I continued to study the
zone etnograce: Cmpulung Muscel, Breaza, Tis-
mana, Suceava, Braov adevrate oaze de cul-
tur tradiional, care mi trezeau sentimente pro-
funde de admiraie i respect pentru generaiile
de femei creatoare de frumos. Locurile acelea au
fost surs de inspiraie pentru multe dintre piesele
vestimentare pe care le-am conceput atunci i
nu eram singura: unicitatea i splendoarea unor
elemente care compun vemntul tradiional ro-
mnesc, ia i catrina, au dat natere unor ade-
vrate pasiuni printre designeri, pictori i sculptori
iar asta mi ntrete credina c valorile noastre
tradiionale trebuie respectate i valoricate, pen-
tru armarea identitii noastre culturale.
ntre timp, continuam s studiez pictura i
participam cu regularitate la expoziiile de art
organizate n slile Muzeului Naional de Art sau
la Galeriile Dalles, Orizont, Simeza. Prima expo-
ziie personal a venit n 1996, odat cu matu-
Paula Barbu, Vemntul din abis, expus n cadrul expoziiei Peisaje Abisale, Galeria Orizont, Bucureti, acrilic pe
pnz, 2012
Paula Barbu, The garment from the abyss, exhibited as part of the Abyssal Sceneries event, Galeria Orizont, acrylic on
canvas, 2012
48
rizarea profesional: Ecrane vegetale. Au urmat
altele, cu teme care fceau parte din aceeai
mare familie a impresionismului abstract: Pasaje
vegetale, Acvatic, Pictur i manechin, Drapaj,
Grdini acvatice, Peisaje abisale.
n pictur, am preferat pnza, tehnologiile
tradiionale i non-gurativul, construind un lim-
baj situat ntre pictura gestual, Taism i Abstrac-
ionism, caracterizat de un anumit echilibru com-
poziional. Calitatea culorilor, o regie riguroas a
exprimrii artistice, gestul spontan i laconic s-au
nscut din perioade lungi de acumulri i dintr-
un subcontient ncrcat cu imagini la care medi-
tez fr ncetare, selectndu-le i procesndu-le,
pentru a le elibera mai trziu pe pnz.
n 1990, cile s-au deschis: am devenit
membr a Uniunii Artitilor Plastici din Rom-
nia, secia Pictur i lector la catedra de Mod
a Academiei de Art din Bucureti, Facultatea
de Arte Decorative i Design, iar n felul acesta
m-am trezit cu trei profesii diferite, i care se
completau una pe alta.
painting strategies and regularly participated
in the art exhibitions organised in the exhibi-
tion rooms of the National Art Museum or at the
Dalles, Orizont or Simeza Galleries. I had my
rst solo exhibition in 1996, announcing my pro-
fessional development: Vegetal screens. It was
followed by others, expressing several themes
related to the same great family of abstract Im-
pressionism: Vegetal passages, Aquatic, Paint-
ing and mannequin, Drapery, Aquatic gardens,
Abyssal sceneries.
In paintings I preferred the canvas, the tra-
ditional technologies and the non-gurative, thus
constructing a language situated between the
gestural painting, tachismes and Abstraction-
ism, dened by a certain compositional balance.
The quality of colours, a rigurous scenario of ar-
tistic expressions, the spontaneous and laconic
gesture, they all developed as a result of some
long periods of accumulations and subconscious
structures suggesting some images I think of
continuously, selecting and processing them, in
Paula Barbu, Vemntul din abis, expus n cadrul expoziiei Peisaje Abisale, Galeria Orizont, Bucureti, acrilic pe
pnz, 2012
Paula Barbu, The garment from the abyss, exhibited as part of the Abyssal Sceneries event, Galeria Orizont, acrylic on
canvas, 2012
49
Azi lucrez n aceeai facultate, alturi de
colegele mele de generaie, Unda Popp i Ioa-
na Avram, cu ali colegi de alte specializri,
ndrgostii de mod, dar i lng viitoarele ge-
neraii de designeri profesori. Experienele de
dup absolvirea facultii, cercetrile ntreprinse
n domeniul modei, cutrile personale ne-au
condus ctre un program nou, coerent i per-
formant, capabil s instruiasc numrul mare de
studeni care se nscriu n ecare an. Pentru ei
am inclus, pe lng noiunile artistice, i cuno-
tine teoretice, practice, tehnice. Ele sunt prezen-
tate n aa fel nct s le faciliteze nelegerea,
s le stimuleze creativitatea i s-i pregteasc
pentru un domeniu mereu n avangard, n care
schimbrile nu se mai petrec de la un sezon la
altul, ci de la un moment la altul.
De-a lungul timpului, ni s-au alturat foti
studeni cu rezultate remarcabile n domeniul
modei, n ar i n strintate, i aa am format o
echip n care credem cu trie i unde contribuia
ecruia este benec, prin diversitatea propu-
nerilor. nelegerea faptului c nu uniformitatea
order to later release them onto the canvas.
In 1990 my paths had opened: I became
a member of the Romanian Union of Artists,
the Painting Department, and a lecturer at
the Fashion Department at the Art Academy,
Bucharest, the Faculty of Decorative Arts and
Design, so I found myself dealing with three
different professions which were actually com-
pleting each other.
Today I work at the same faculty, together
with my generation mates, Unda Popp and Ioana
Avram, with other colleagues sharing other spe-
cializations, who were fond of fashion, and also
with the future generations of professor design-
ers. My experience, after I graduated from fac-
ulty, my research in the domain of fashion and
my personal explorations, oriented us towards a
new, coherent and performing program, capable
of instructing a great deal of students signing
up each year. Besides the artistic notions, I pro-
vided them with theoretical, practical and tech-
nical knowledge. These are presented in a way
to facilitate their understanding, stimulate their
Anul I Licen, Colecia Gaudi, fotograe realizat n cadrul evenimentului Fashion Mob, Sun Plaza, Bucureti, 2012
First year BA student, the Gaudi collection, photo realized as part of the Fashion Mob event, Sun Plaza, Bucharest, 2012
50 51
este cea care ne ajut, ci modurile diferite de a
aborda principiile i elementele modei, ne-a con-
dus spre o competiie constructiv, din care stu-
denii au avut cel mai mult de ctigat. Pe ei, n
primul rnd, trebuia s i convingem cu multiple-
le experimente: ncepnd cu desenul, culoarea,
compoziia, cu primele volume obinute i con-
tinund cu obiectele-art, cu crearea propriilor
materiale i croiuri, cu noiuni eseniale despre
mod, art, performing, micare scenic i multe
alte elemente care construiesc fenomenul modei,
culisele ei, cum ne place s spunem, i care i
ajut s neleag acest mecanism complex. Aa
se explic diversitatea n modul de abordare a
temelor lucrrilor de Licen i Master realizate
de studeni n ultimii ani.
Unii consider c moda trebuie s e doar
aa cum cred ei, ignornd cu bun tiin, din
motive tiute doar de ei, eforturile colii rom-
neti de mod. Aa-zii critici, cu o minim in-
formare, abilitate i practic a modei, nu neleg
paii fcui pentru formarea viitorilor designeri,
nici multiplele faete i domenii ale modei, nici
creativity and prepare them for a permanently
vanguardist domain in which changes do not oc-
cur from a season to another, but from a moment
to another.
In time, former students, with remarkable
results in the domain of fashion in the country
and abroad joined us, and so we formed a team
we truly trust, where the contribution of each of
us is benecial through the suggestions diver-
sity. The comprehension of the fact that it is not
about comformity which helps us, but the various
methods to approach the principles and elements
of fashion, led us towards a constructive compe-
tition highly appreciated by students. They were
the ones we had to convince with multiple ex-
periments: starting with drawings, colour, com-
positions, the rst volumes obtained, continuing
with the art objects, with the creation of our own
materials and patterns, with essential notions re-
garding fashion, art, performances, stage move-
ment, and many other elements setting up the
phenomenon of fashion, its coulisses, as we like
to dene it, which made them understand this
Anul I Licen, Colecia Gaudi, fotograe realizat n cadrul evenimentului Fashion Mob, Sun Plaza, Bucureti, 2012
First year BA student, the Gaudi collection, photo realized as part of the Fashion Mob event, Sun Plaza, Bucharest, 2012
52
Laura Smarandache, Colecia Sharp Love, 2011
Laura Smarandache, Sharp Love Collection, 2011
53
54 55
Ana Popa, Colecia Zestrea, 2009
Ana Popa, The Dowry Collection, 2009
Sandra Galan, Colecia Heritage, 2008
Sandra Galan, Heritage Collection, 2008
56 57
Anul I Licen, Colecia Ritual, 2013
First year BA student, the Ritual Collection, 2013
58
tefana Chelaru, Nostalgia crinolinei, 2014
tefana Chelaru, The crinolines nostalgia, 2014
59
complex mechanism. All this explains the diver-
sity of their approach when they elaborated their
recent dissertations and MA works.
Some consider that fashion must be the
way they imagine it, while knowingly ignoring,
because of a number of personal reasons, the
efforts of the Romanian fashion school. So-called
critics, endowed with the lowest degree of in-
formation, ability and practice in fashion, do not
understand the stages developed to form the fu-
ture designers, neither the multiple aspects and
domains of fashion, nor the fact that the fashion
school came into the line of occidental standards
long time ago; they do not even see the students
achievements in international competitions or the
way they are welcome in other academic con-
texts, when they continue their studies abroad.
My research in the domain of fashion and
personal explorations in painting made me nd
the most appropriate modalities to provide my
students with a great deal of knowledge and ex-
perience to enrich, support and orient them with-
in this vast domain, to open their paths and make
them discover their own artistic personality.
The course of volumetry, which I suggested
them, providing the Fashion Department with
a unique dimension, proved necessary in the
comprehension of different methods to obtain
volumes and in the faster understanding of the
problems concerning the patterns construction.
This explains why the topics I suggest to my
students include very many elements related to
painting, sculpture, scenography or art history, as
well as the technological problems needed in the
execution of volumes or the introduction of some
recent technologies. White Black, Warm
Cold, Contrast itself, Piet Mondrian, Sonia
Delaunay and the simultaneous dress, Frida
Kahlo, Mark Rothko, Gustav Klimt, Pop Art,
Op Art, Antoni Gaudi represent only a part
of the subjects related to colour through which
I try to make students get closer not only to the
experience of great artists but also to the study
of colours and principles governing it, which are
so necessary in creative clothing.
Referring to the successful experience, the
recent Antoni Gaudi collection of the rst year
students combines the spectacular forms with
faptul c coala de mod s-a aliniat de mult stan-
dardelor occidentale, i nici nu vd realizrile stu-
denilor n competiiile internaionale sau ct de
bine sunt primii n alte medii academice, cnd i
continu studiile n strintate.
Cercetrile n domeniul modei i cutri-
le personale n pictur m-au ajutat s gsesc
modalitile cele mai potrivite ca s transmit
studenilor ct mai multe cunotine i experi-
ene care s i mbogeasc, s-i ajute s se
orienteze n acest vast domeniu i, n acelai
timp, s le deschid cile prin care s se poat
descoperi ei nii ca personaliti artistice sau
formatori. Cursul de Volumetrie pe care l-am
propus pentru ei i care adaug o dimensiune
unic Departamentului Mod s-a dovedit ne-
cesar pentru nelegerea diferitelor metode de
obinere a volumelor i pentru descifrarea mai
rapid a problemelor legate de construcia ti-
parului. Aa se explic de ce temele pe care le
propun studenilor includ foarte multe elemen-
te legate de pictur, sculptur, scenograe sau
istoria artei, dar i probleme tehnologice nece-
sare pentru realizarea volumelor sau introduce-
rea unor tehnologii de ultim or. Alb-Negru,
Cald-Rece, Contrast n sine, Piet Mondrian,
Sonia Delaunay i rochia simultan, Frida Ka-
hlo, Mark Rothko, Gustav Klimt, Pop Art,
Op Art, Antoni Gaudi sunt doar o parte din-
tre subiectele legate de culoare, prin care ncerc
s i apropii pe studeni de experienele marilor
artiti i de studiul culorii i al pricipiilor care
o guverneaz, att de necesare pentru creaia
vestimentar.
Vorbind despre experiene reuite, una
recent a fost colecia Antoni Gaudi a stu-
denilor anului I Licen, n care formele spec-
taculoase se mpletesc cu inovaiile decorative
folosite de Gaudi n lucrrile sale de arhitectu-
r. Folosindu-se de aceast metod i de cultu-
ra lor plastic, studenii au creat o istorie a pic-
turii cu care au mbrcat corpul uman i creia
i-au conferit dinamism prin culoare i micare.
Au abordat cu uurin aceste teme i au reali-
zat volume complicate i spectaculoase, iar ima-
ginaia i creativitatea lor s-au dezvoltat de la o
etap la alta, datorit cunotinelor dobndite n
timpul acestui experiment.
60
Alex Raicu, Nostalgia crinolinei, 2014
Alex Raicu, The crinolines nostalgia, 2014
61
62
the decorative innovations used by Gaudi in his
works of architecture. By using this method and
their artistic culture, the students created a histo-
ry of painting, which they dressed up the human
body with, while conferring the idea of dynamism
through colour and motion.
They approached these topics easily and
made complicated and spectacular volumes and
their imagination and creativity developed from
a stage to another due to the knowledge gained
during this experiment.
Sometimes, the topics suggested represent
answers to the explorations of some colleagues
or other designers for instance, the Passions
collection made with the MA students continuing
Unda Popp Annunciation or the peerless Alexan-
der McQueens Sacrice. It was an answer relat-
ed to another question: whether the approach of
some themes deriving from a spiritual and highly
sensitive area, by means of fashion, could be possi-
ble. The result was obvious: the students achieved
real objects of art, some constructed on compo-
sitional elements, using non-conventional materi-
als, others were rigorously made in the form of
garments with daring cuttings, in McQueens style,
accessorized with non-conventional elements.
Some other times the research tpics are sug-
gested by the costumes history: from pre-history to
crinolines, from Art Nouveau to Art Deco, from the
New Look to the 60s and 70s and Deconstructivism
or the present Minimalism, the transformations are
fast, through documentation and experiments.
If I had to return forty years ago and choose
my profession again, I would take the same deci-
sion: the three hats creator, painter and profes-
sor t me wonderfully and bring me immediate
and countless satisfactions...
I would also say that, since Ive discovered
my pedagogical side, I noticed that many of my
ideas can turn into life through my students
achievements and we can also declare ourselves
winners: Sandra Galan, Ana Popa, Roxana Prvu,
Laura Smarandache, Emilia Tudoran, Iulia Gh-
enea, Alex Raicu are only some of those (belong-
ing to the latest generations) I am proud of, those
who are going to develop the Romanian design,
while surely contributing to the expansion and
promotion of the Fashion School, Bucharest.
Uneori, temele propuse sunt rspunsuri la
cutrile unor colegi sau ale altor designeri de
exemplu, colecia Patimile, realizat cu studen-
ii de la ciclul masteral, care continu Buna Ves-
tire a Undei Popp sau Sacriciul inegalabilului
Alexander McQueen. A fost un rspuns dat i
unei alte ntrebri: dac este posibil abordarea,
prin mod, a unor teme dintr-o zon spiritual,
att de sensibil. Rezultatul a vorbit de la sine:
studenii au realizat adevrate obiecte de art,
unele construite pe elemente de compoziie,
folosind materiale neconvenionale, altele rea-
lizate riguros sub form de veminte cu tieturi
ndrznee, n stilul lui McQueen, accesorizate
cu elemente neconvenionale. Alteori, temele de
cercetare sunt sugerate de istoria costumului:
din preistorie la crinolin, de la Art Nouveau la
Art Deco, de la New Look la anii 60, 70 i pn
la Deconstructivism sau la Minimalismul zilelor
noastre, salturile se fac rapid, prin documentare
i experiment.
Dac m-a ntoarce azi cu patruzeci de ani n
urm i ar trebui s-mi aleg din nou o meserie, a
merge pe acelai drum: cele trei plrii creator,
pictor i profesor mi stau de minune i mi aduc
satisfacii imediate i fr numr. i a mai spune
c de cnd mi-am descoperit latura pedagogic,
am vzut c multe dintre ideile mele pot prinde
via prin realizrile studenilor i c putem cti-
ga deopotriv: Sandra Galan, Ana Popa, Roxana
Prvu, Laura Smarandache, Emilia Tudoran, Iulia
Ghenea, Alex Raicu sunt doar o parte (din ulti-
mile generaii) dintre cei cu care m mndresc
i care vor dezvolta designul romnesc contribu-
ind cu siguran la creterea prestigiului colii de
mod din Bucureti.
63
Anul I Master: Iulia Ghenea (1), Mirela Barbu (2), Roxana Prvu (3), Emilia Tudoran
(4), Patimile, 2013
First year MA student: Iulia Ghenea (1), Mirela Barbu (2), Roxana Prvu (3), Emilia
Tudoran (4), Passions, 2013
2
3
4 1
64
Ioana AVRAM
lector universitar doctor
lecturer doctor
65
Am absolvit cursurile Institutului de Arte
Plastice Nicolae Grigorescu din Bucureti n anul
1978, n cadrul seciei de Arte Textile, specializa-
rea Creaie Vestimentar.
n acel an, considerat ca ind un vrf al
prosperitii globale, nemaiatins de atunci, a fost
descoperit satelitul Charon al lui Pluto, Republica
Popular Chinez a permis, n urma unei noi stra-
tegii de dezvoltare cultural, accesul la operele lui
Aristotel, William Shakespeare i Charles Dickens,
dar i introducerea conceptului de Mod, prin
aerul occidental adus de Pierre Cardin la Beijing;
New York Post a publicat un amplu articol relativ
la cartea lui David Rorvik The Cloning of Man,
despre presupusa posibil clonare a inei uma-
ne, iar la Chicago a fost creat primul computer
bulletin boardsystem (CBBS), un sistem compu-
terizat care permite conectarea informatic.
A fost anul alegerilor de mod ciudate, al cri-
zei petrolului, al coafurilor abracadabrante, anul
n care a fost creat Gareld, personajul de BD
cel mai viral i s-a nscut in vitro primul copil
Louise Joy Brown.
A fost supranumit Anul Celor Trei Papi, dar
i cel n care Nicolae Ceauescu a lansat Pro-
iectul Bucureti, ca o replic a oraului Phenian,
capitala Coreei de Nord; a fost inventat insuli-
na articial, Menachem Begin (Israel) i Anwar
el-Sadat (Egipt) au obinut ex aequo Premiul
Nobel pentru Pace, Sony a introdus walkman-ul,
primul stereo portabil, lmele The Deer Hunter
Moda i semnele schimbrii
I have graduated from the Institute of Fine
Arts Nicolae Grigorescu, Bucharest, the Textile
Arts Department, Creative Clothing, in 1978.
That year, considered the climax of global
prosperity, never felt before, they discovered Plu-
tos Charon satellite, and the Republic of China
allowed, as the outcome of a new strategy ap-
proached in cultural development, the access to
the works of Aristotle, William Shakespeare and
Charles Dickens, as well as the introduction of the
Fashion concept given the occidental inuence
of Pierre Cardin at Beijing; New York Post pub-
lished an ample article related to David Rorviks
book, The Cloning of Man, the alleged possible
cloning of the human being, and at Chicago they
created the rst computer bulletin board system
(CBBS), a computerized system permitting the
computer connection.
It was the year of odd fashion choices, oil
crisis, bizarre hairstyles, the year when they cre-
ated Gareld, the most viral BD character, when
the rst vitro child, Louise Joy Brown, was born.
It was nicknamed The year of the three
Popes; it was the year when Nicolae Ceauescu
launched the Bucharest project as a reply of
the Phenian town, the capital of North Coreea;
they invented the articial insulin, Menachem
Begin (Israel) and Anwar el-Sadat (Egypt) ob-
tained ex aequo the Nobel Prize for Peace,
Sony introduced the walkman, the rst portable
stereo, some lms - The Deer Hunter Annie
Fashion and the signs of change
66
Annie Hall sau Grease au devenit simboluri
culturale, Bee Gees au lansat Stayin Alive, iar
pantalonii de plastic au fost, pentru scurt vre-
me, la mod.
Nicolae Ceauescu a fost pentru ceva vreme
liderul cel mai frecventabil din lagrul socialist
i a fost plimbat cu trsura prin Londra, de ctre
regina Angliei, trecnd pe lng un cinematograf
unde rula (la liber!!!) un lm produs de David
Grant, King of sexploitation.
Apare cartea lui John T. Molloy, The Womens
Dress for Success Book care a marcat o piatr
de hotar n codicarea vestimentar a mesajului
ocial, iar The London Fashion Exhibition lana-
seaz, n acelai an, o seciune aparte, destinat
designerilor, n timp ce IGEDO deschide Dssel-
dorf Fashion House, pentru mbrcminte de
designeri, n ncercarea de a cuceri piaa ameri-
can, saturat de produsele de mas, care pot
cumprate din Orientul ndeprtat.
Populaia globului era de aproximativ 4 mili-
arde 302 milioane de oameni.
Toate acestea au inuenat direct, mai mult
sau mai puin discret, existena Planetei, a indi-
vizilor, a mea, fr s tiu la momentul acela, c
undeva se ntmpl lucruri care vor transforma
lumea familiar mie, ntr-o manier de neimagi-
nat, altfel dect tiinico-fantastic.
Spiritul anului 1978 mi-a modelat, de fapt,
structura afectiv, cultural i social, datornd
efectelor vizibile sau colaterale ale ecreia
dintre toate aceste evenimente, plus ale multor
altora, multe netiute ceea ce sunt acum.
La acea vreme, moda vestimentar, care
tocmai lua in n Romnia ca profesie creativ,
(dincolo de croitoria artizanal sau de unicatele
artistice ale Fondului Plastic) era, fr s tiu eu,
vrful de lance al unui proiect ambiios care viza
un sistem integrat de cercetare, creaie, produc-
ie i implementare pe pia, gndit ca s fore-
ze intrarea pe ua din fa n industriile modei.
Prins ntre creativitatea artistic i cea de mod,
ntre libertatea unui liber profesionist i rigorile
corporatiste, am evoluat and ncet-ncet rs-
punsuri legate de structura, fora, rolul i efectele
modelatoare ale actului cultural de mod.
coala de mod a aprut ca o necesitate de
formare profesional, pentru crearea unor resur-
Hall or Grease became cultural symbols, Bee
Gees launched Stayin Alive, and plastic pants
became fashionable for some time.
For a while, Nicolae Ceauescu had been
the most frequentable leader from the so-
cialist camp, he used to be driven in carriage
tours around London by the Queen of England
and, passing by a cinema, he was astonished to
glimpse David Grants lm, King of sexploita-
tion, (freely!!!)
Then they published John T. Molloys book,
The Womens Dress for Success Book which
marked an outstanding point in the clothing
codication of the ofcial message; it was the
same year when The London Fashion Exhibition
launched a special section for designers, while
the IGEDO opened the Dsseldorf Fashion House,
for brand clothing trying to conquer the American
market, imbued with mass products, which could
be purchased in the Far East.
Population: 4.302 billion people.
All these inuenced the existence of the
Planet, of the individuals and mine, directly, in a
more or less discrete way; at that time I did not
know that, somewhere, there were things which
were going to transform the World, which I was
familiar with, into an unbelievable manner, totally
different from the scientic and fantastic one.
The spirit of 1978 had actually modeled
my affective, cultural and social structure due to
the visible or collateral effects of each of these
events, or of others, which I was not aware of,
and here I am.
At that time, fashion clothing, which was
just developing in Romania as a creative pro-
fession (beyond the artisanal tailoring or the
artistic unique items of the Gallery) was, with-
out my knowledge, the essence of an ambitious
project focused on an integrated system of re-
search, creation, production and market imple-
mentation, meant to force the grounds in the
fashion industry. Caught between the artistic
and fashion creativity, between the liberty of a
free-lancer and corporatist rigors, I went further
and gradually found the answers related to the
structure, force, role and modeling effects of the
cultural act of fashion.
The fashion school emerged as the profes-
67
Laura Bonciu, Andreea Vartolomei, Laura Ditot, Wholometry, 2013
68
Laura Bonciu, Andreea Vartolomei, Laura Ditot, Wholometry, 2013
69
70
se umane apte s nfrunte concurena din indus-
triile modei internaionale. Apariia sa (1971) a
marcat n sine un traseu profesional pentru cei
care, cultural, tehnic, artistic i creativ, trebuiau
s rspund misiunii de reformatare a industri-
ei de confecii romneti.
Desigur, acest plan nu s-a realizat cel puin
nu atunci datorit rezistenei la schimbare a
tuturor factorilor implicai. n primul rnd, indus-
tria de confecii a primit cu iritare sarcina de a
introduce n sistem creaia, ca element industrial
productiv. Acest lucru presupunea reorganizarea
uxurilor tehnologice, n baza conceptelor me-
reu noi de mod i costuri mari de creaie, pe
care nu le nelegea, avnd n vedere rolul asu-
mat pn atunci de exclusiv productor. Pe de
alt parte, structurile Institutului de Arte de la
acea vreme considerau acest domeniu, foarte
Colecia colaborativ SAGE, bazat pe cercetare de tendine (2010) viziune conrmat de studiile STYLESIGHT /
FUTURIST (2012)
A collaborative collection, SAGE, (2010) based on a collaborative research of trends a vision conrmed by the fol-
lowing studies STYLESIGHT / FUTURIST (2012)
sional development was needed for the crea-
tion of some human resources, which were able
to cope with the competition in the interna-
tional fashion industries. Its emergence (1971)
marked a professional route for those who had
to experience the re-formatting of the Roma-
nian clothing industry culturally, technically, ar-
tistically and creatively.
Of course, this plan was not successful at
least not then given every factors resistance to
the idea of change. Firstly, the clothing industry
was resentful when given the task to introduce the
creation in the system, as a productive industrial
element. This might have assumed the reorgani-
zation of technological streams, according to the
concepts always new in fashion and high costs
of creation, which they did not understand given
the role assumed so far, as an exclusive producer.
71
nou de altfel pentru Romnia, ca pe un copil de
pripas impus de conducerea de partid, tolerat -
ind ca un moft, indc nu se putea altfel. Studen-
ii, unii ndrgostii de mirajul modei i al lumii de
dincolo de cortina de er, sperau c prin mod
pot mai aproape de visul realizrii profesionale
ntr-o lume mai frumoas. Considerau c adev-
rata creaie va valorizat altfel acolo.
Industria, obligat ind s ne angajeze ca
desenatori artistici cu studii superioare sau
proiectani modele cu studii superioare (cuvin-
te ca design sau marketing neind acceptate, nici
mcar n nomenclatorul de funcii) ne margina-
liza violent, manifestnd un dispre nedisimulat
pentru tot ceea ce nsemna creativitate, talent,
viziune, pe scurt, orice putea genera schimbare.
Un conict dureros, care a semnat confuzie i a
facilitat abandonarea proiectului.
Colecia colaborativ MATHEMAGICAL, bazat pe cercetare de tendine (2011) viziune conrmat de studiile STY-
LESIGHT / FUTURIST (2012)
A collaborative collection, MATHEMAGICAL, (2011) based on a collaborative research of trends a vision conrmed
by the following studies STYLESIGHT / FUTURIST (2012)
Secondly, those structures of the Art Institute
considered this domain very new for Romania, as
a stray child imposed by the party, tolerated as
a caprice, as there was no other way. The stu-
dents, some very fond of the mirage of fashion
and the world beyond the Iron Curtain, were
hoping that, by means of fashion, they could
get closer to their professional development in a
more beautiful world. They considered that the
authentic creation was going to be evaluated
more differently there
The industry, obliged to hire us as graduate
draftsmen or graduate planners (words like
design or marketing were not accepted, not
even in the classied list of functions) margin-
alized us violently, manifesting an undisguised
disdain for all that meant creativity, talent, vi-
sion, more exactly, anything that could gener-
72
Am avut marea ans s m bucur de ghizi
i maetri care m-au ndrumat pe calea ngust,
i nu lipsit de capcane, a descoperirii de sine
pentru mine moda a fost dintotdeauna un mod
de via, nu o profesie. Doamna Leontina Mai-
latescu, cea care a primit sarcina s porneasc
motoarele colii de creatori de mod romni, a
studiat la Viena i a adus de acolo un model greu
de digerat la acea vreme creaia vestimentar
productiv, pentru industriile creative ale modei.
Tehnic (mult prea tehnic i rigid pentru tinerii care
se doreau artiti i nu plmai angajai n indus-
trie, cu e i sarcini de serviciu, termene, dar i
rspundere), acest lucru ne-a descumpnit pen-
tru mult vreme, netiind unde este drumul spre
destinul profesional. La polul uman al ecuaiei,
Doamna Adina Nanu a introdus msura omului,
cu afectivitate, orgolii, bucurii, nevoi, constrn-
geri, dar i rzvrtiri, precum i bucuria de a lucra
cu un limbaj mult mai complex dect cel uzual,
comunicnd stri i intenii, i care putea traduce
vestimentar tot ce ne nconjoar.
Mult vreme am balansat ameit ntre pasi-
une i sarcini de serviciu, pn cnd am neles
c toate acestea fac parte dintr-o singur lume,
dintr-o singur poveste, cu rspunsuri posibile la
nevoia fundamental uman de a se manifesta so-
cial prin valori culturale, exprimate n forma lor
material vestimentar.
Am neles c totul este cuprins ntr-un sis-
tem SISTEMUL MODEI care reprezint expre-
sia cea mai larg a curentului cultural dominant
al ecrei epoci.
Totui seminele acelor vremuri dau roade
frumoase acum, Romnia este deja angajat pe
drumul fr ntoarcere al produciei de creativi-
tate, ind clasat pe locul 15 n lume n exercita-
rea puterii intangibile, conform noului indicator
Soft Power Index, lansat de Ernst & Young.
De asemenea, n cadrul Planului de Export al
Romniei, prin eforturile Societii Designeri-
lor Profesioniti din Romnia, designul (cel de
mod inclus) reprezint o valoare exportabil
n sine e sub form de concepte, e de pro-
totipuri, iar tinerii designeri particip la trguri
internaionale sub marc proprie.
Lumea s-a schimbat inimaginabil. Conceptul
de Er Digital sau Revoluie Digital presupu-
ate the transformation. A painful conict which
provoked confusion and facilitated the abandon-
ment of the project.
I had the great opportunity to get in touch
with guides and masters who oriented me to-
wards the narrow and difcult path to discover
myself for me, fashion was always a lifestyle,
not a profession. Mrs. Leontina Mailatescu, the
one who had the task to start the engines of
the Romanian school of fashion creators, had
studied in Vienna and from there she brought
a model, which was hardly accepted then the
productive clothing creation for the fashion crea-
tive industries. Technically, (too technical and
rigid for the young people who wanted to be-
come artists not poor employees, with foremen
and tasks, terms and responsibility) this had un-
balanced us for a longer time, creating confu-
sion around the idea of professional fate. At the
human pole of the equation, Mrs. Adina Nanu
introduced the human measures, with affection,
vanity, joy, needs, constraints, but also rebellion
and the happiness to work with a more complex
language than the common one, communicating
conditions and intentions, translating all that sur-
rounded us in terms of fashion.
I had oscillated a lot between passions and
service tasks until I understood that all these
belong to a single world, to a single story, with
possible replies to the fundamentally human
need to manifest socially, through cultural val-
ues, expressed in their clothing-material form. I
understood that everything is included in a sys-
tem THE FASHION SYSTEM which represents
the largest expression of the dominated cultural
genre of each epoch.
However, the seeds of those times bear their
fruits now, Romania is already and forever engaged
in the process of creative production, being the
15th in the world to exert the intangible power
according to a new indicator, Soft Power Index,
launched by Ernst & Young. Moreover, in Romanias
export plan, through the efforts of the Romanian
Society of Professional Designers, design (includ-
ing the fashion design) represents an exportable
value itself, either in the form of concepts or as
prototypes, and the young designers participate in
international fairs with their own brand.
73
Alexandru Tunsu, FIRST BREATH, 2013
74
ne manipularea informaiei prin tehnologii digi-
tale, un nou tip de relaii ntre ina uman i
virtualitate, generat cu precdere de tehnologia
informaiei i a comunicrii digitale. Schimbrile
rapide i violente, care pot deveni amenintoare
pentru societatea noastr, necesitnd o atitudine
cultural nou, diferit i CREATIV.
Profesii au disprut i multe altele le iau
locul cu o vitez nemaintlnit, iar formarea
profesional de tip tradiional face cu greu fa
acestor provocri.
Vor aprea noi actori pe scena economic,
social, politic, tipologia activitilor va deveni
din ce n ce mai rapid volatil.
n Era Digital a Civilizaiei Informaiei pu-
tem considera sistemul modei ca ind o reea
globalizat i s acceptm c WWF (World Wide
Fashion) i WWW (World Wide Web) sunt doar
diferite modele ale aceluiai tip de civilizaie, ast-
fel nct, n prim instan, moda poate deveni
un model pilot mai uor explorabil.
Lucrnd peste 30 de ani n diverse poziii din
industriile creative ale modei, m-am angajat, -
resc, n elaborarea unui proiect educaional, ba-
zat pe experiena profesional nemijlocit i pe
activitatea de cercetare n domeniul modei i a
modelelor educaionale destinate creativilor.
Vorbim despre ceea ce rmne dup ce prea
puin din ceea ce este azi, va mai .
Moda este un barometru cultural, extrem de
n i de precis, iar specialitii acestui domeniu,
lucrnd mereu la timpul viitor, sunt printre primii
care simt semnele schimbrii i le transpun ntr-o
realitate a zilei de mine.
Pornind de la ideea c industriile modei pre-
zint oportuniti profesionale cu un spectru
foarte larg de utilizare a capacitilor creative
antrenate i educate (unele cunoscute, altele
emergente, altele fr form, nc), am nceput
prin a formula cele mai importante competene
(general valabile pentru toate acestea), pe care
o universitate de art le poate oferi. Astfel, nu-
mind cteva, putem s ne referim la: elaborarea
unei viziuni i asumarea ei, modaliti de con-
ceptualizare i operaionalizare, capaciti de
comunicare, exprimare n diferite limbaje (artis-
tice sau neartistice), spiritul inovaiei competiti-
ve, utilizarea deschiderii culturale ca instrument
World has unbelievably changed. Concepts
like Digital Era or Digital Revolution assume the
manipulation of information through digital tech-
nologies, a new type of connections between hu-
man beings and virtual contexts, especially gener-
ated by the technology of information and digital
communication. The fast and violent changes can
become threatening for our society and need a
new, different and CREATIVE attitude.
There were professions which vanished,
some others replaced them very fast, and the
traditional professional development is hardly
coping with these challenges.
New actors are going to appear on the eco-
nomic, social, political stage, and the typology of
activities will transform more and more...
In the digital era of Informational Civilization
we can consider the fashion system a globalized
network and accept that WWF (World Wide Fash-
ion) and WWW (World Wide Web) are only differ-
ent models of the same type of civilization, thus,
in the rst instance, fashion can become an eas-
ily researchable pilot model.
Having worked in various positions in the
creative fashion industries for more than 30
years, I certainly engaged in the elaboration of
an educational project based on direct profes-
sional experience and my research activity in the
domain of fashion and the educational models for
the creative individuals.
We speak about what stays after only too lit-
tle of whats going on today is going to remain.
Fashion represents a cultural extremely deli-
cate and precise barometer, and the specialists
of this domain, who always focus on the future,
are among the rst to feel the signs of change
transposing them in the reality of tomorrow.
Starting from the idea that fashion indus-
tries present professional opportunities with a
wide range of creative and educated capacities
and skills (some of these already known, oth-
ers emergent, and some others still deprived of
form), I began to formulate the most important
competencies (generally valid for all these), which
a University of Art can provide. For instance, we
can refer to the elaboration of a vision and its as-
sumption, modalities applied in conceptualization
and operational activities, communication capaci-
75
de interconectare a informaiei, comportament
exploratoriu i tehnici de cercetare i documen-
tare, utilizarea creativ a tehnologiilor (tradiio-
nale sau emergente), capacitatea de a rspunde
creativ la orice fel de provocare, datorit atitu-
dinii deschise ctre nou i nu n ultimul rnd,
capacitatea de a lucra cu prognozele culturale i
cu cele specice modei, i altele.
Proiectele modei se bazeaz, de fapt, pe
cercetare centrat pe curiozitate, pe cutarea di-
versitii, pe determinarea aspiraiilor i nevoilor
care cer rspunsuri punctuale. Dar nu oricum, ci
rspunsuri care sunt inovative, se detaeaz de
concuren, produc valoare i genereaz prot.
Ce ar fost dac n 1978 a tiut c o-
cul Viitorului (Alvin Tofer) este altceva dect
un reuit eseu cu pretenii vizionare, sau dac
Cronica Anului 2000 (acad. Mircea Malia) ar
ajuns sub ochii mei, sau dac a tiut unde s
caut toate informaiile menionate la nceput i a
avut priceperea s le conectez ntre ele, crend
un posibil tablou al unui viitor care este deja
trecut n mare parte?
Parafraznd-o pe Faith Popcorn, unul dintre
cei mai renumii trend spoteri: Dac ai cunoa-
te totul despre mine, ce ai face altfel azi?, rs-
pund: A nva pe alii cum s se uite n mi-
ne, ca s fac de azi paii necesari, astfel nct
mine s nu i surprind nepregtii.
La nceput, programul de mod ar tre-
buit s cuprind o formare care se referea, cu
precdere, la design vestimentar i ar trebuit
s creeze competenele necesare pentru aco-
perirea nevoii de implementare pe pia a unor
modele de succes.
Ulterior, domeniul s-a diversicat, acest lu-
cru nemaiind sucient, ind necesar un pro-
gram de management al coleciilor de mod i al
gestiunii conceptelor. Profesii ca Trend Manager,
Conceptual sau Directional Designer, Director
Creativ sau Fashion Buyer devenind foarte soli-
citate pe piaa de munc.
Foarte repede a explodat o palet larg de
noi profesii creative cu aplicaie direct n mod
(stilist cu toate declinrile sale, trend-setter,
trend-hunter, analist, critic i editorialist de mod,
manager de imagine de mod, cercettor n do-
meniul soluiilor vestimentare alternative, visual
ties, expressed in different languages (artistic or
non-artistic), the spirit of competitive innovation,
the usage of cultural opening as an instrument
to inter-connect information, the exploratory be-
havior and techniques approached in research
and documentation, the creative usage of tech-
nologies (traditional or emergent), the ability to
respond creatively to any kind of challenge, due
to the open attitude towards freshness and origi-
nality, and last but not least, the capacity to work
with cultural prognosis and those specic to fash-
ion and so on and so forth.
The fashion projects actually rely on a re-
search based on curiosity, the exploration of
diversity, the determination of aspirations and
needs demanding punctual answers. But not an-
yway, innovative answers, stimulating the com-
petition, producing value and generating prot.
What would have been if in 1978 I had known
that the Shock of future (Alvin Tofet) represent-
ed something else than a successful visionary es-
say, or if Chronicle 2000 (Acad. Mircea Malia)
had reached my attention or if I had known
where to explore all the information mentioned
at the beginning and I had been skilled enough
to interconnect these to create a possible paint-
ing of a future which had already passed in a
great measure?
Paraphrasing Faith Popcorn, one of the most
well-known trend spotters, If you knew eve-
rything about tomorrow, what would you do
differently today? I answer: I would teach the
others how to look at tomorrow, to make them
act differently, so that tomorrow would not
nd them unprepared.
At the very beginning, the fashion program
should have comprised a formation especially
concentrated on the clothing design and it should
have created the necessary competencies to cov-
er the implementation of some successful models
on the market.
Subsequently, the domain diversied, this
was not sufcient, a management program in
fashion collections and concept administration
was needed. Professions such as Trend Manager,
Conceptual or Directional Designer, Creative Di-
rector or Fashion Buyer, became very solicited on
the labor market.
76 77
Maria Mihaela Popescu, Digital Dimension, 2013
78
merchandiser, fashion display artist etc.).
n zilele noastre, cel mai important lucru este
modul de a interrelaiona profesional, de a lucra
colaborativ i cocreativ, de a folosi creativitatea
n toate domeniile vieii, de la rspunsuri ctre
client, la utilizarea tuturor oportunitilor legale
de manifestarea pe pia.
n aventura mea didactic, am ncercat s
gsesc forme i modaliti de a antrena grupuri
de studeni n astfel de proiecte i m pot bu-
cura c am obinut i unele rezultate. Fiindc,
n paradigma mea, reuita nseamn s produci
absolveni capabili s preia sarcini pe care nu
le pot onora alii.
Astfel, Ana Nechita este proprietar i editor
la revista Rumours, Cristina Ciovrt este trend
manager la Agnes Toma, Lavinia Pop visu-
al merchandiser la Max Mara Weekend, Anca
Colecie colaborativ, Selenit, 2014
Collaborative collection, Selenite, 2014
Very soon they developed a large scale of
creative professions directly applied in fashion
(stylist associated with all its declining, trend-
setter, trend-hunter, analyst, fashion critic and
editorialist, fashion image manager, researcher
in the domain of alternative clothing solutions,
visual merchandiser, fashion display artist etc).
Nowadays, the most important element is
the way to inter-relate professionally, work col-
laboratively and co-creatively, use creativity in
every domain of life, from replies to the client to
the usage of every legal opportunity in the mani-
festation on the market.
In my didactic adventure I tried to nd forms
and modalities to engage groups of students in
such projects and I am glad I have also obtained
good results. As, according to my belief, success
means to produce graduates who are capable of
79
urlic visual merchandiser la H&M, Diana
Osman, Anca Petrea, Raluca Coman, designeri
i creativi la Nisa, Alina Ene coproprietar i
creativ la Coolta, Agota Tompos, unul dintre cei
mai de succes designeri industriali romni, iar al-
ii se manifest pe plaja tinerilor designeri inde-
pendeni, care ncearc s se fac vizibili n lume
printr-o prezen remarcabil.
Alina Dragomir, Cristina Petrescu i Ana Bul-
garu Spiridon, o generaie mai tnr (2012), au
optat pentru o form colaborativ de asociere,
dup un model nou de afaceri soft, specic unui
alt model cultural. Dei foarte nou, brand-ul lor
Traskin are deja impact n rndul unui tip nou
de cumprtor avizat, modest, tnr, cultural,
implicat i experimentat.
Ultima generaie (2013) a produs un nou val
de creativi, cu viziuni diferite n sfera creaiei de
mod, a culturii de mod, a sociologiei i stilu-
lui de via, a noilor tehnologii aplicate n mod,
sau a stilismului personal: Alex Tunsu, Ana-Maria
Beleag, Bianca Georgescu, Lavinia Bdi, Lau-
ra Bonciu, Mihaela Marcoci.
De-a lungul timpului studenii, au manifestat
interes i pentru subiecte de cercetare, cum ar
Hainele vii (Andreea Marton), Light Painting
i 3D Painting Effect (Alina Ene), Cromatica i
rolul ei n vestimentaie studiu de form, pro-
porie, culoare (Andreea Costache), Visual Mer-
chandising ca art (Lavinia Pop), Online Fashion
Business (Corina Stoicescu), Soluii corectoare
ale formelor corporale prin metode vestimentare
(Simona Simon), Visual Merchandiser o nou
form de social media (Daniela Moroianu), Ves-
timentaia ca limbaj social media aplicaie pen-
tru protecia animalelor (Sonia tefan).
Una dintre cele mai interesante realizri, pe
care o consider valoroas ca model, se refer la
educarea atitudinii creative de tip colaborativ, n
cadrul unei comuniti creative n cazul nostru,
a unei grupe de studeni.
Creativitatea colaborativ este un proces
creativ, derulat pe mai multe niveluri, care pre-
supune activitatea concertat a mai multor cre-
atori, constituii ntr-o entitate creativ care face
abstracie de poziia individual i susine cel mai
bun rspuns la obiectivul stabilit.
Astfel, soluiile nu sunt o nsumare de opi-
assuming the tasks, which others cant fulll.
Thereby, Ana Nechita is the owner and editor
of the Rumours magazine, Cristina Ciovrt is
the Trend Manager of Agnes Toma, Lavinia Pop
the Visual Merchandiser at Max Mara Week-
end, Anca urlic the Visual Merchandiser
la H&M, Diana Osman, Anca Petrea, Raluca
Coman, designers and creators at Nisa, Alina
Ene co-owner and creator at Coolta, Agota
Tompos, one of the most successful Romanian
industrial designers, and others manifest in the
context of young independent designers trying to
make themselves visible in the world given their
outstanding value.
Alina Dragomir, Cristina Petrescu and Ana
Bulgaru Spiridon, belonging to a younger gen-
eration, (2012) chose a collaborative form of
association according to a new soft business
model specic to another cultural model. Al-
though very new, their brand Traskin has
already inuenced a new consumer type which
is competent, modest, young, cultural, involved
and experimental.
The latest generation (2013) produced a
new wave of creators with different visions in the
fashion eld, fashion culture, sociology and life
style, in the new technologies applied in fashion,
or in the personal style: Alex Tunsu, Ana-Maria
Besleag, Bianca Georgescu, Lavinia Bdi, Lau-
ra Bonciu, Mihaela Marcoci.
Over the time, the students have also been
interested in research subjects, such as Vivid
clothes (Andreea Marton), Light Painting and
3D Painting Effect (Alina Ene), Chromatics and
its role in clothing a study of forms, proportions,
colour (Andreea Costache), Visual Merchandis-
ing as art (Lavinia Pop), Online Fashion Busi-
ness (Corina Stoicescu), Corrective solutions
of corporal forms through clothing methods
(Simona Simon), Visual Merchandiser a new
social media form (Daniela Moroianu), Clothing
as a social media language application for the
protection of animals (Sonia Stefan).
One of the most interesting achievements,
which I consider precious as a model, refers to
the education of the collaborative creative atti-
tude in the context of a creative community in
our case, of a group of students.
80
nii, ci rspunsul osmotic optim la tema propus,
iar rezultatul este asumat de ntreaga comuni-
tate. Coleciile Silk Road (2006), Europolis
(2007), Virtual Eden (2008), Heart of Wear
(2009), Sage (2010), Mathemagical (2011),
Metamotion (2012), Wholometry (2013) au
demonstrat viabilitatea acestui model cu efecte
complexe, nu doar creative, ci mai ales din per-
spectiva utilizrii comune a capacitilor tuturor
celor implicai. Modelul presupune managemen-
tul ntregii activiti, pe paliere diferite de mani-
festare, de la creaie la comunicare, la producie,
pn la promovare i diseminare.
De asemenea, o alt realizare ar faptul c,
adui n starea de a gndi i de a explora mpre-
un, studenii au dovedit un foarte profund sim
al prognozelor culturale, descoperind i comuni-
cnd vizual i vestimentar tendine conrmate
ulterior de ctre birouri de stil celebre. De exem-
plu, tematica i moodboard-ul coleciilor Sage
(2010), Mathemagical (2011), Metamotion
(2012) sunt aproape identice cu cele comunicate
The collaborative creativity is a creative
process, developed on more levels, assuming
the activity of more creators constituted into a
creative entity which ignores the individual sta-
tus and supports the best reply to the already
settled objective.
Thus, the solutions do not comprise a sum
of opinions but a proper osmotic answer to
the suggested topic, and the result is assumed
by the whole community. The Silk Road
(2006), Europolis (2007), Virtual Eden
(2008), Heart of Wear (2009), Sage (2010),
Mathemagical (2011), Metamotion (2012),
Wholometry (2013) collections demonstrate
the viability of this model provided with com-
plex effects, which arent only creative, espe-
cially from the perspective of a mutual usage
of everybodys capacities. The model implies
the management of the whole activity, on dif-
ferent levels of manifestation, from creation,
communication, production to promotion and
dissemination.
Ana Maria Beleag, TESTIMONIUM, 2013
81
de ctre STYLESIGHT n 2012. Acest lucru con-
rm corectitudinea i eciena metodei de lucru.
Consider c studenii trebuie obinuii s pri-
veasc atent prezentul, s caute acolo semnele
viitorului i s rspund prompt la acestea, prin
soluii de MOD.
Vorbim deci, ca un paradox, despre Produ-
sul care nu exist nc, dar va exista pentru
beneciarul care exist deja, dar va altfel de-
ct este acum.
Bine ai venit n lumea modei! Pentru noi, vi-
itorul se ntmpl la timpul prezent!
Furthermore, another achievement is em-
phasized by the fact that the students proved a
very profound sense of cultural prognosis while
thinking and exploring together, nding and visu-
ally communicating the tendencies subsequently
certied by some stil clbre ofces. For example,
the topic and moodboard of the Sage collections
(2010), Mathemagical (2011), Metamotion
(2012), are almost identical with those communi-
cated by STYLESIGHT in 2012. This conrms the
correctness and efciency of work methods.
I consider that the students must be taught
to watch the present carefully, search for the
signs of future there and respond promptly to
these by means of FASHION solutions.
Thus we paradoxically refer to the Product
which does not exist yet, but it will exist for the
beneciary who already exists, but it will look
more differently.
Welcome to the world of fashion! For us, the
future befalls at present!
82 83
Raluca Damian, Brand-ul Autohton, Colecia Oameni, 2009
Raluca Damian, The local brand, the People Collection , 2009
84
Doina LUCANU
confereniar universitar doctor
senior lecturer doctor
85
Atunci cnd prolul tu biograc se nca-
dreaz n zona artitilor care sunt i cadre didac-
tice, ai o mare responsabilitate pentru a trans-
mite mai departe studenilor repere denitorii
ale crezului tu artistic. Astfel, o caracteristic
pe care mi-o asum i o promovez este plcerea
nencetat de a lucra cu diferite materiale, de a
inventa noi tehnici i limbaje plastice. Pot arma
cu convingere c ntreg travaliul artistic perso-
nal, dar i cel pedagogic, este fundamentat pe
experiment, pe mixajul compoziional, dar i pe
interferena limbajelor vizuale.
n dezvoltarea proiectelor artistice personale
am pus n practic concepte din domeniul artei
rului (ber art): rul-br textil, rul-sticl,
rul-hrtie, rul-metal etc. Pe acestea le-am
contextualizat in diverse tipuri de manifestare
artistic: tapiserie spaial, desen, broderie, in-
stalaie, sculptur, art video etc. Trecerea de la
asumarea conceptual a propriului demers artis-
tic la suportul analitic ce determin proiectele pe
care le coordonez ca profesor n domeniul artistic
presupune abilitatea de a transmite studenilor
priceperea de a transforma orice r (indiferent
de natura lui) n suprafee texturate i n forme
expresive obinute prin asocieri inedite cu minim
de mijloace plastice.
Lucrrile realizate de-a lungul timpului se
ncadreaz n categoria reprezentrilor artistice
intermediale i vizeaz un nou tip de abordare
plastic de dimensiuni conceptuale inserate n
Arta Firului i jocul formei
When your biographic prole harmonizes with
the zone of artists, who are also professors, you
have the great responsibility to further convey
the dening characteristics of your artistic belief
to your students. Thus, one of the attributes I
assume and promote is the ceaseless pleasure to
work with different materials, invent new tech-
niques and artistic languages. I can strongly state
that my entire artistic and pedagogical labour is
based on experiments, compositional mixtures
and the interference of visual languages.
In the development of my artistic projects I
applied concepts related to the domain of ber
art: the bre textile bre, glass bre, paper -
bre, metal bre etc. I have conceptualised them
in different types of artistic manifestations: spa-
tial tapestry, drawings, embroideries, installa-
tions, sculptures, video art, etc. The transition
from the conceptual assumption of a personal
artistic approach to the analytical one determin-
ing the projects I coordinate as a professor in
the artistic eld presumes the ability to provide
the students with the skills needed to transform
any bre (regardless of its nature) into textured
surfaces and expressive forms obtained through
new associations with only few artistic means.
The works accomplished in time t in the cat-
egory of intermedial artistic representations and
focus on a new type of artistic approach, with
conceptual dimensions inserted in structural com-
positions, which are selected in a certain way to
Fiber Art and the game of forms
86 87
Anul II Licen Proiect Mega Fashion, 2013
Second year student, Mega Fashion Project, 2013
88
Lcrmioara Crian, LadZestra, 2014
89
compoziiile structurale, alese astfel nct s cre-
eze o anumit dinamic a spaiului. n seriile de
structuri spaiale am urmrit crearea unei sceno-
grai prin sugerarea unui traseu de urmat, bine
determinat. Pentru mine, gsirea tehnicii adec-
vate pentru materializarea unei idei sau a unui
concept este o component esenial n trezirea
unui sentiment sau pentru crearea unei impresii
i comunicarea unui mesaj.
Experimentele pe care le-am facut n decursul
anilor att ca artist, ct i ca profesor, au integrat
o gam variat de materiale att conveniona-
le, ct i neconvenionale. Exemplic prin cteva
proiecte personale interesul meu pentru experi-
ment i explorarea limbajelor plastice.
Proiectul Muze se nscrie pe linia manifes-
trilor care integreaz cercetarea artistic unui
cadru multidisciplinar ce deschide orizontul in-
terpretativ al receptorului, prin repoziionarea sa
fa de lumea nconjurtoare i de accepiunea
antic a muzei. Tehnica utilizat a fost una mixt,
de la haute-lisse, trecnd prin nodurile persan,
maramureean, moldovenesc i pn la brode-
rii care ilustreaz pnza de pianjen. n opozi-
ie am folosit araci mpletii n tehnica gardurilor
maramureene, puse peste un strat de pmnt
adus n galerie, n care am construit trei ochiuri
de ap, pentru oglindirea unor detalii din lucrri.
Jocul iniiat este unul de opoziii i contraste ntre
texturi ne i materialiti grosiere, ntre oglindire
i opacitate, ntre lumin i ntuneric. Tapiserii-
le-obiect, lucrri tridimensionale de mari dimen-
siuni, sunt realizate din bre textile i metalice,
prin transformri continue ale tehnicilor de esut,
n care textura devine un mijloc de expresie au-
tonom pentru potenarea expresivitii materiei.
Timpul uman cosmic este proiectul prin in-
termediul cruia am trecut de la natura organicului
(ln, sisal, mtase, bumbac) la explorarea naturii
metalului (cupru i argint). Astfel, acesta reunete
o serie de lucrri executate din folie de cupru pati-
nat, cu ajutorul creia, prin tehnici mixte, am cre-
at o serie de panouri, personaje i mti sub forma
unor reliefuri. nelegnd condiia artei decorative,
nu n sensul pur formal, am ncercat de ecare
dat s susin un discurs ideatic care le integrea-
z la un nivel al motivaiei artistice ce depete
graniele dintre genuri. Toate lucrrile acestei serii
create a specic dynamics of space. In the series
of spatial structures I analysed the creation of a
scenario by suggesting a well-determined route. In
my case, the nding of the most appropriate tech-
nique to materialise an idea or concept represents
an essential element to evoke a feeling or create
an impression and communicate a message.
The experiments I have carried out in time,
both as an artist and a professor, comprised a
wide range of conventional and unconventional
materials. I shall exemplify my interest in experi-
ments and exploration of artistic languages by
means of several personal projects.
The Muses project belongs to those mani-
festations which integrate the artistic research
in a multidisciplinary context stimulating the re-
ceivers interpretative horizon through his new
viewpoint regarding the surrounding world and
the ancient acception of the muse. I have used
a mixed technique, from haute-lisse, penetrating
the Persian, Moldavian and Maramures noduses,
to the embroideries illustrating spiderwebs. In
opposition, I used knitted vine props in the tech-
nique of fences from Maramures, settled over a
layer of soil brought into the gallery, in which I
constructed three loops of water to reect some
details from the works. The initiated game is one
suggesting oppositions and contrasts between
ne textures and rough materials, between re-
ection and opacity, between light and dark-
ness. The object tapestries, large tri-dimensional
works, are made of textile and metallic bres
by continuously transforming the weaving tech-
niques in which the texture becomes a means of
autonomous expression to highlight the expres-
siveness of the substance.
The cosmic human time is the project through
which I passed from the organic nature (wool,
sisal, silk, cotton) to the exploration of the metal-
lic one (copper and silver). Accordingly, this re-
unites a series of works executed from polished
copper foil used to create a series of pannels,
characters and masks in the form of reliefs with
the support of mixed techniques. While under-
standing the condition of decorative art, not in
the purely formal perspective, I always tried to
sustain an ideational discourse which integrates
them at a level of artistic motivation surpassing
90
the limits among genres. All the works of this
series reach expressive outlines oscillating on the
report suggested by the title of the exhibition be-
tween the cosmic and human reality, justifying
their existence only in connection to each other.
Another project, Phenotype, includes a series
of works in which the interference of techniques
and the evolution of artistic contributions repre-
sent elements aiming to dene my specicity as
an artist, by nding a personal manner of expres-
sion which individualises me. What has always
fascinated me, both personally and in my experi-
ments with students, were the bre thread, used
in different contexts, and the spatiality of abstrac-
tised artistic (metamorphosed) forms. The works
were executed in mixed technique, which I called
para-embroidery, consisting in the transposition
of a concept or idea into a drawing by using
different conventional and unconventional mate-
rials for the embroiderys universe. The work
style is generally spontaneous, starting from idea
sketches, yet allowing the creative gesture and
imagination to discover new forms while creat-
Raluca Mandia, Art of fashion, San Francisco, 2013
capt contururi expresive, pendulnd pe raportul
sugerat de titlul expoziiei ntre o realitate a cosmi-
cului i una a umanului, nejusticndu-i existena
dect n relaie una cu cealalt.
Un alt proiect, Fenotip, include o serie de
lucrri n care interferena tehnicilor i evoluia
demersului plastic sunt elemente care ajung s
deneasc specicitatea mea ca artist, prin g-
sirea unei maniere de expresie proprii, care m
individualizeaz. M-au fascinat ntotdeauna, att
n plan personal, ct i n experimentele pe care
le fac cu studenii, rul-br pe care l folosesc
n diferite contextualizri, precum i spaialitatea
formelor artistice abstractizate (metamorfozate).
Lucrrile au fost executate n tehnica mixt pe
care am numit-o parabroderie, care const n
transpunerea unui concept, a unei idei ntr-un
desen, utiliznd pentru executarea lui diferite
materiale convenionale i neconvenionale pen-
tru universul broderiei. Maniera de lucru este n
general spontan pornind, de la schiele de idee,
dar lsnd loc gestului creator i imaginaiei de a
descoperi noi forme n timpul creaiei, ntr-o vari-
91
92
ing, in an innite number of combinations.
As we all know, the video technique is very
important in the fusion of contemporary concepts
and acts like a virtual wave through which any me-
dium can be represented. The Phenotype lm is
another project focused on the transgression to-
wards a multimedia zone, in which the computer
and video are used for conceptual determinations.
In my own experimental research I have used
concepts such as invention, repetition, the impor-
tance of details and fragments, game, pluralism,
multiplicity, experiment, mixed techniques and in-
termediality. The individual projects, experiments
and form games I investigate often represent the
source of the themes I suggest to my students.
When we refer to the identity of a creator, he is
endowed with a genetic, cultural, educational,
sentimental, emotional and social expression, and
a certain power to adapt to the idea of novelty etc.
For a creator, the past is the project of the present
or vice versa, and I consider the awareness of a
creative (personal) identity abolutely necessary.
This is the reason why one of the recent semester
etate innit de posibiliti combinatorii.
Cum bine se cunoate, tehnica video ocup
un loc important n fuziunea conceptelor con-
temporane i acioneaz precum o und virtual
prin care orice mediu poate reprezentat. Filmul
Fenotip este un alt exemplu de proiect care mi-
zeaz pe transgresia spre o zon multimedia, n
care computerul i video-ul sunt utilizate pentru
determinarea conceptual.
Pentru propria cercetare experimental m-am
folosit de concepte precum invenie, repetiie, im-
portana detaliului, a fragmentului, joc, pluralism,
multiplicitate, experiment, tehnici mixte i inter-
medialitate. Proiectele individuale, experimentele
i jocurile formei pe care le investighez consti-
tuie deseori originea temelor pe care le propun
studenilor. Cnd vorbim de identitatea unui crea-
tor, el poart cu sine o ncrctur genetic, cultu-
ral, educativ, sentimental, emoional, social
i o anumit putere de adaptare la nou etc. Pentru
un creator, trecutul este proiecia prezentului sau
invers i consider ca absolut necesar contienti-
zarea identitii creative (personale). Acesta este
Constana Balaban, Orient versus Occident, 2013 Mdlina Georgescu, Dedal, 2013
93
Ellida Toma, LadZestra, 2014
94
Lcrmioara Crian, LadZestra, 2014
95
motivul pentru care una dintre temele de semes-
tru recente a fost lada de zestre, neleas nu
n accepiunea sa clasic de purttoare a unei
moteniri materiale, ci n sensul larg al purtrii i
asumriii trecutului nostru individual.
Pentru dezvoltarea oricrui proiect am pro-
pus de ecare dat cel puin dou direcii de
cercetare: o component de factur practic prin
explorarea tehnicilor, a materialelor, a mediilor
(posibilitilor variate pentru construcia unei lu-
crri intermediale) i alta, la fel de important, o
component de factur teoretic prin lecturarea,
studierea i analiza unor demersuri interdiscipli-
nare, care in de abordri lozoce, literare i
bineneles de istoria i teoria artei. Rspunsuri-
le studenilor la astfel de provocri sunt de cele
mai multe ori propuneri i rezolvri fascinante, n
variate direcii creative extrem de contemporane
integrate domeniului modei.
Pentru lrgirea orizontului creativ i ndrum pe
studeni s inteasc la vrf, s-i ndrepte atenia
spre specialitii din domeniul modei, cu o anumit
exigen i educaie estetic i cultural, care ac-
tiveaz n lumea artistic, indiferent c este vorba
de domeniul artelor plastice, al artelor spectacolu-
lui, al arhitecturii sau de alte arte. De asemenea
coordonez cu druire proiecte ale unor studeni
care particip la diferite concursuri n ar i stri-
ntate. Astfel activitatea didactic ind ncununat
de succesul obinut de acetia la nivel naional sau
internaional. Menionez aici participarea la con-
cursul Internaional Triumph, unde o student a
obinut locul trei la Berlin n 2011 (Diana Bob-
n), i concursul internaional Arts of Fashion (San
Francisco, 2013) unde, din 365 de participani de
la 120 de universiti, s-au calicat n faza nal
50, dintre care doi (Raluca Mndi i Serghei Ia-
cenin), sub coordonarea mea.
Pentru a arhiva i documenta efortul artis-
tic, n ultimii ani, ecare proiect realizat personal
sau cu studenii s-a nalizat cu un lm de mici
dimensiuni (3-10 minute), n care am apelat la
cel puin dou modaliti de construcie. Pe de o
parte o component metalingvistic n care, prin
suprapunerea sau succedarea ntr-un anumit
mod sau proces tehnic, se obine n nal o ima-
gine metaforic complex, iar pe de alt parte, o
component narativ care ilustreaz ideea, con-
themes was the bottom drawer comprehended
not in its classical meaning, as the symbol of some
material inheritance, but generally, as the assump-
tion of our individual past.
When I developed any project, I always pro-
posed at least two research directions: a practical
one, through the exploration of techniques, mate-
rials and mediums (varied possibilities for the con-
struction of an intermedial work) and another one,
as important as the previous one, a theoretical
orientation, by reading, studying, analysing some
interdisciplinary approaches related to philosophi-
cal and literary views, and surely to the art history
and theory. The students replies to such challeng-
es are mostly fascinating suggestions and solu-
tions in different extremely contemporary creative
directions integrated in the domain of fashion.
In order to make my students expand their
creative horizon, I advise them to aim to the top,
to focus on specialists in the domain of fashion,
with a certain degree of exigency and aesthetic
and cultural education activating in the artistic
area, no matter if it is about the domain of vis-
ual arts, performing arts, architecture or other
arts. I devotedly coordinate the projects of some
students who take part in different contests in
the country and abroad. Thus my teachings are
paved with the success obtained by these stu-
dents nationally and internationally. Here I men-
tion the participation in the Internaional Triumph
Contest, where a student, Diana Bobn, was
awarded with the third prize at Berlin in 2011,
and in an international contest, Arts of Fashion
(San Francisco 2013) where, from 365 partici-
pants from 120 universities, 50 qualied for the
nal stage; two of these, Raluca Mndi and
Serghei Iacenin, were coordinated by me.
In recent years, in order to archive and
document the artistic effort, each project, made
personally or with my students, nalised with a
small lm (lasting for 3-10 minutes) in which I
approached at least two modalities of construc-
tion. On one hand, a meta-linguistic component
in which we nally obtain a complex metaphorical
image, through the juxtaposition or alternation in
a certain way, or a technical process, and on the
other hand, a narrative component illustrating
the idea, the suggested concept. As a technical
96
Monica Ivanovici, LadZestra, 2014 Anca Pancu, LadZestra, 2014
ceptul propus. Ca demers tehnic, obiectul artistic
(vestimentar) special conceput i realizat pentru
proiectul propus, amplasat n locaia gsit pen-
tru susinerea ideii de la care s-a pornit, devine
subiectul fotograei digitale i al video-ului, toate
nlnuite n zona articiului digital al montaju-
lui video pe computer.
Prin dialogarea cu materia i tehnica aleas
creatorul reuete, prin metamorfozare, s co-
munice receptorului ntocmai ideea propus. De
fapt, prin creaie, noi construim cadrul comunic-
rii dintre materie i idee, depind diversele stadii
de devenire a formei, cu ajutorul unor tehnici cla-
sice sau avansate (computerizate) i, n acelai
timp, noi comunicm cu propriile sentimente, tr-
iri, cu propria lume de forme, de semne, ltrnd
totul prin propriul orizont de conoatere, prin sis-
temul nostru de referin emoional i cultural.
Toate acestea trebuie s serveasc celor trei
caracteristici pe care le consider eseniale pentru
analiza i auto-analiza n ceea ce privete creaia,
n general, i care reprezint fundamente de baz
pentru evoluia dinamic n arta vizual contem-
approach, the artistic (clothing) object, especially
conceived and realized for the project, settled in
the location selected to sustain the idea we start-
ed from, becomes the subject of the digital photo
and video, all connected in the zone of the digital
artice of the video computer montage.
Through the dialogue with the selected sub-
stance and technique, through metamorphosis, the
creator succeeds in communicating the proposed
idea to the receiver. In fact, by means of creation,
we set up the communication context between the
substance and idea, surpassing the forms different
stages through a number of classical or advanced
(computerized) techniques while also communi-
cating with our own feelings, experience, with our
own world of forms and signs, ltering everything
through our horizon of knowledge, through our
emotional and cultural system of references.
All these must serve the three characteristics
which I consider essential for the analysis and
self-analysis regarding creation, in general, which
represent the essence of the dynamic evolution
in the contemporary visual art: the simplicity of
97
Andreea Postelnicu, LadZestra, 2014
98
Ellida Toma, LadZestra, 2014
99
Alina Gurgu, LadZestra 2014
100
the suggested forms and the power used to syn-
thesize and metamorphose the form, the plural-
ity of methods and techniques and the imposing
force of a personal artistic language.
I am very glad I can contribute with my ex-
perience to educate and develop some young
people who have chosen to attend the classes of
this beautiful University. About Unda Popp, the
binder of the fashion department: I have appreci-
ated her from the very beginning given her inner
beauty, her preferences for original elements, for
the fact that she appreciates each colleague for
what he could do the best. I also appreciate and
respect my colleagues and I feel happy to work
with them, we all feel very young in what we
think and do, we approach the topics not only
with humour, professionalism and love, but also
with responsibility, considering what we convey
to our further generations of students.
poran: simplitatea formelor propuse i puterea
de sintetizare i metamorfozare a formei, plurali-
tatea metodelor i a tehnicilor utilizate i fora im-
punerii unui limbaj propriu de exprimare plastic.
M bucur mult c pot contribui, cu experi-
ena mea, la formarea i dezvoltarea unor tineri
care au ales s urmeze cursurile acestei frumoa-
se universiti. Pe Unda Popp, care este liantul
Departamentului Mod, am apreciat-o de la nce-
put pentru frumuseea ei interioar, pentru des-
chiderea fa de nou i pentru faptul c a tiut
s-l aprecieze pe ecare coleg pentru ceea ce tie
s fac el mai bine. La rndul meu, mi apreciez
i respect colegii i lucrez cu mult drag alturi
de ei, ne simim cu toii foarte tineri n ceea ce
gndim i facem, abordm temele cu umor, pro-
fesionalism i drag fa de coala noastr, dar
i cu responsabilitate pentru ceea ce transmitem
mai departe generaiilor de studeni.
Roxana Benea, Fragment, 2013
101
Raluca Mandi, Duality, 2013
102
Alina Maria GRIGA
lector universitar doctor
lecturer doctor
103
nc de la nceputul practicii mele, am trit
cu sentimentul c orice hain are o istorie, ns
de cele mai multe ori, odat purtat, ea sfrete
prin a uitat i nchis ntr-un dulap. De aceea,
am convingerea c atunci cnd croim o nou
via unei haine abandonate, practic resuscitm
o biograe, construim o ntlnire fascinant ntre
elemente vestimentare diferite, le dm un nou
sens. Prin urmare, noua provocare a artitilor
este aceea de a revizita estetica i sensibilitatea
unor piese vestimentare de calitate rmase n du-
lap, dincolo de clasica formul vintage sau de
gesturile mici, prin care operm simple aplicaii
pentru a personaliza sau nnobila ceva vechi.
Reciclarea inovativ sau upcyling face par-
te dintr-o nou direcie eco-sustenabil, post-
consumerist i, de regul, este nsoit de o
campanie de sensibilizare mpotriva irosirii re-
surselor textile; n multe cazuri, aceste campanii
privesc i un nou set de politici, care echilibrea-
z i responsabilizeaz consumul produselor in-
dustriale, care impun noi metode de obinere,
reglementnd standarde de fabricare n intere-
sul consumatorului.
n seria experimentelor i a manifestrilor
personale coordonate, mpreun cu studenii
anului II, din cadrul Departamentului Mod al
UNAB, am atins de-a lungul timpului problema-
tica reciclrii n nenumrate teme propuse n
cadrul cursului Concept i exprimare. Practica
de la care pornim este simpl, rezultatul este
Reciclarea inovativ
sau upcycling
From the very beginning of my practice Ive
experienced the feeling that any garment has its
own history, however, most of the times, once it
was worn, it ends up being forgotten and closed
in a wardrobe. Therefore, I am convinced that,
when we provide an abandoned garment with
new life, we practically resuscitate a biography, we
set up a fascinating meeting with various clothing
elements, we provide them with a new mean-
ing. As a result, the artists new challenge is to
re-consider the asthetics and sensibility of some
quality clothes, left in the wardrobe, beyond the
classical vintage formula or the small gestures
through which we operate the simple applications
to personalise or ennoble something old.
The innovative recycling or upcyling belong
to a new eco-sustainable and post-consumerist
direction, and are generally associated with a
campaign meant to sensitize against the waste
of textile resources; in many cases, these cam-
paigns also focus on a new set of policies bal-
ancing and responsibilising the consumption of
industrial products, which impose new methods
by controling the production standards in the
consumers interest.
In the series of coordinated experiments
and personal manifestations, together with the
second year students belonging to the Fashion
Department of the National Art University, Bu-
charest, I have approached the recycling topic in
numerous contexts suggested by means of the
The innovative recycling
or upcycling
104
Adelina Amza, Recycle your love, 2013 Alexandra Vulpe, Licen, 2009
Alexandra Vulpe, Graduation examination, 2009
105
ns foarte fericit: spre exemplu, n unele cazuri
le recomand studenilor s caute cteva piese
vestimentare vechi de care sunt ataai afectiv.
Alturarea a dou sau mai multe cmi care
aparin fratelui, tatlui sau prietenului se poa-
te transforma, cu originalitate i umor, ntr-o
spectaculoas compoziie vestimentar, n care
elementele devin un pantalon sau o rochie cu
o form nou, baroc i cu deschideri variate
absolut surprinztoare.
Avnd ca punct de plecare regenerarea for-
melor vestimentare i invitaia de a privi hainele
amestecate ntre ele asemeni unui caleidoscop,
studenii destructureaz piesele i, ulterior, cu
ajutorul tehnicilor de colaj textil bine dozat, prin
exerciii experimentale, transform cteva date
vestimentare obinuite ntr-o variant original,
multifuncional i de multe ori unisex (de exem-
plu detaliile, custurile decorative ale unei cmi
brbteti devin gulere sau buzunare).
La fel, pri ale unui colaj n material tex-
til, omogenizate ntr-un mix-match de mas-
culin-feminin cu detalii i structur, form i
funcionalitate, toate dirijate dup rigorile stilis-
tice, ntr-o manier autentic de mod, cristali-
zeaz la nal o explozie alternativ, postmoder-
n de maxim expresivitate. Piesa vestimentar
rezultat din acest proces de transformare cre-
ativ, aparent simplu i la ndemna oricui, ca-
pt forme cu o personalitate surprinztoare i
atrage studentul creator de ecare dat n zone
neexplorate anterior, intrigante i pasionante ale
tiparului de mod.
Deschiderea pe care studenii o au ctre
aceast experien vine i din curiozitatea prac-
tic de a decripta tehnicile considerate sterile i
de multe ori complexe, tehnici fundamentale n
croitorie, atunci cnd vine vorba de modelare i
construcie a tiparului tridimensional. Ideea de a
reutiliza piese din mod considerate desuete, pro-
tnd de detaliile i aplicaiile deja prezente, dar
i reinventnd alte soluii tehnice pentru a le face
practice, uor de mbrcat i de purtat, ne dezv-
luie soluii tehnice complexe, de multe ori unicat.
Rezultatul o hain, un obiect sau o idee
nu mai urmrete canoanele clasice, dar magia
formei nou alctuite ne poate transporta vizual
peste timp, n alte epoci i alte locuri.
course Concept and expression. The practice
we start from is simple, however the result is a
very good one: for instance, in some cases I ad-
vise the students to search for some old clothing
items they feel emotionally attached. The juxta-
position of two or more shirts belonging to their
brother, father or friend can transform with origi-
nality and humour in a spectacular clothing com-
position in which the elements turn into a pair of
trousers or a new baroque dress with absolutely
suprising varied openings.
Starting with the regeneration of clothing
forms and the invitation to look at the clothes,
which are combined like a kaleidoscope, the stu-
dents destructure the items and, subsequently,
by means of well balanced collage techniques
and experimental exercises, they transform sev-
eral common clothing data into some original,
multifunctional and mostly unisex variants (for
instance, the details and decorative sewings of a
shirt become collars or pockets).
Similarly, parts of a textile collage, homog-
enised in a male-female mix match provided with
details and structure, form and functionality, all
conducted according to stylistic rigours, in an
authentic fashion manner, nally crystalize an al-
ternative and postmodern explosion, suggesting
the highest degree of expressiveness. The cloth-
ing item resulted from this process of creative
transformation, which is apparently simple and
within reach, obtains some forms with a surpris-
ing personality catching the creative student in
the intriguing and passionate unexplored zones
of fashion patterns.
The students preference for this kind of ex-
perience also derives from the practical curios-
ity to decipher the so-called sterile and mostly
complex techniques, fundamental techniques in
tailoring when its about the modelling and con-
struction of tridimensional patterns. The idea to
re-utilize the obsolete fashion items by taking
advantage of details and the already present
applications, by re-inventing other technical so-
lutions to make them practical, easy to wear,
reveals us complex technical solutions, which
are often unique.
The result a garment, an object or an
idea does no longer follow the classical pat-
106
Cimpoieru Florina Cristina, Design your own material, 2013
107
tefana Chelaru, Design your own material, 2013
108
Amelia Carauleanu (1), Laura Dimancea (2), Design your own material, 2013
Florina Cimpoieru (3), Zamr Georgiana (4), Recycle your love, 2013
Pentru a demonstra c nu este un gest izo-
lat, dei aparent tendina este ctre globaliza-
rea industriei de confecii, reciclarea ei apare
recent i din perspectiv comercial. Long
Live Fashion este propunerea gigantului H&M
i este prima campanie mondial de reciclare
a hainelor; totul a nceput destul de recent, n
anul 2012. Marea provocare este cea n care
se ncearc s se recupereze majoritatea hai-
nelor uzate. Pentru ecare pachet de haine
uzate aduse n magazin oricine poate obine
o reducere de 5 euro, n toate magazinele din
Italia. Din colectarea pieselor vestimentare
nc de calitate, rezultate din acest efort de
sensibilizare a opiniei publice, cele mai multe
vor propuse pentru piaa mondial ca piese
second-hand, n timp ce piesele consumate vor
convertite n alte produse, iar cele irecupe-
rabile vor deveni bre noi pentru producerea
altor obiecte vestimentare noi i, nu n ultimul
rnd, textilele consumate vor utilizate la pro-
ducerea energiei.
Un alt semnal n aceast perspectiv a reci-
clrii l d expoziia Everything must go, des-
chis pe 22 Ianuarie 2012 la Banks Oxo Warf,
Londra, regatul Unit al Marii Britanii i al Irlandei
de Nord. Aici este sugestiv demonstrat felul n
care producem anual la nivel global, ntotdeauna
fascinai ind de irezistibilele modele i materia-
le noi. Din pcate, toate aceste produse sfresc
prin a se pierde denitiv n dinamica ameitoare
greu de urmrit a tendinelor i a modelor ce se
succed i, n nal, ele ajung a aruncate la gunoi
i pierdute astfel denitiv.
Muni de vestimentaie decedat sunt
expuse n slile expoziiei imagine cu un im-
pact cutremurtor. Astfel prezentat, moda este
copleitoare i trezete n vizitator un sentiment
de fric i nelinite. O alt seciune a evenimen-
tului este rezervat modului i anselor prin care
se poate ncetini ritmul acestui enorm consum
al hainelor i al textilelor. Sunt astfel identicate
cteva direcii de transformare a acestor deeuri
textile printr-un proces creativ eco-sustenabil n
care la nal nimic nu se pierde.
O noutate este materialul textil conglome-
rat, un rezultat direct din reziduuri ale industriei
de confecii ori textile domestice recuperate din
terns, however the magic of the newly struc-
tured form can transport us visually to other
epochs and places.
In order to demonstrate that it is not an iso-
lated gesture, although apparently the tendency
consists in the globalisation of garment industry,
its recycling appears from a commercial view-
point as well. Long Live Fashion is the proposal
of giant H&M and it is the rst world clothing
recycling campaign; all started rather recently,
in 2012. The great challenge is to recover most
of the second-hand clothes. For each package
of worn-out clothes brought to the store anyone
can get a 5 euros reduction in all the shops from
Italy. After the collection of clothing items, which
still emphasise the idea of quality, resulted from
this effort to sensitize the public opinion, most
of these are going to be proposed for the world
market as second-hand items, while the con-
sumed items will be converted into other prod-
ucts, and the irretrievable ones will turn into new
bres to produce other new clothing objects and,
last but not least, the consumed textiles will be
used in the production of energy.
From this perspective, another signal regard-
ing the recycling process is highlighted by an ex-
hibition, Everything must go opened in January
22, 2012 at Banks Oxo Warf, London, the United
Kingdom of England and North Ireland. The way
we annually produce at the global level is sug-
gestively demonstrated here, as we are always
fascinated by the irresistible new models and
materials. Unfortunately, all these products will
nally lose themselves in the overwhelming yet
hard to follow dynamics of successive tendencies
and models, and they are nally thrown away,
they will be lost forever.
Piles of deceased clothing are exhibited in
the exhibition rooms a terribly touching image.
Presented like this, fashion is overwhelming and
stirs a feeling of fear and anxiety. Another section
of the event is reserved to the way and chances
through which one can diminish the rhythm of
this enormous consumption of clothing and tex-
tiles. Thus we identify several directions in the
transformation of these textile remnants through
a creative eco-sustenable process in which noth-
ing is going to be lost.
109
1 2
3 4
110
Amelia Carauleanu, Recycle your love, 2013
111
The conglomerate textile material represents
something new, a direct result of the garment in-
dustry remnants or domestic textiles recovered
fro the recycling process. It is a material pro-
vided with the lowest degree of environmental
impact and is successfully used in the construc-
tion industry as an insulator and thermo-acoustic
pannels. Based on a completely ecological and
aseptic process, washed with water, without any
chemical products or pigments, it becomes an
ecologically certied product.
Recently, the subject has been widely devel-
oped from many viewpoints by the author, Sass
Brown, professor at the Fashion Institute of Tech-
nology New York, the United States of America,
and Fashion Design, FIT, Florence, Italy, in the
ReFashioned: Cutting-Edge Clothing From Upcy-
cled Materials album.
The originally Italian artist, Orsola de Castro,
founds an organisation which unites creators,
producers and distributors who create small col-
lections in the context of Reclaim To Wear. Be-
sides acknowledged names in fashion, Topshop
or Speedo, she succeeds in concentrating and
promoting such an exhibition at Hong Kong Up-
cycling Fashion and Sustainable Living Exhibition
(UPlife2013).
The young designer, Andreea Badal, is one
of my students who, after she studied fashion at
the National Art University, Bucharest, and later
the patterns technology at the College of Fashion,
London, attended some practical probations with
some fashion creators, Richard Nicoll, Tata-Naka,
Emilio from Morena and Alexander Mcqueen. In
many of her recent creations, highly appreciated
by the specialty literature (Vogue UK) and well-
known international stars such as Lady Gaga, Brit-
ney Spears and Beyonce she certies her passion
for the clothing items and vintage patterns which
she combines with new technologies such as the
graphic contaminations and textile cuttings laser
cut. From her very rst brand, the creator partici-
pates in exhibitions and group manifestations such
as the latest one, organised at the fashion week
from London (February 13, 2013) an initiative of
the Romanian Cultural Centre The rest is tomor-
row successfully representing the vanguard of
the Romanian fashion.
reciclare. El este un material cu impact ambien-
tal minim i e folosit cu succes n industria de
construcii, ca izolant i panouri termoacustice.
Creat dup un proces 100% ecologic, sterilizat i
splat cu ap fr produse chimice sau colorani,
el devine un produs certicat ecologic.
Recent, subiectul este pe larg dezvoltat
din toate punctele de vedere de autoarea Sass
Brown, profesor la Fashion Institute of Tech-
nology, New York, Statele Unite ale Americii,
i Fashion Design, FIT, Florena, Italia, n albu-
mul ReFashioned: Cutting-Edge Clothing From
Upcycled Materials.
Artista de origine italian Orsola de Castro
pune bazele unei organizaii care aduce laolalt
creatori, productori i distribuitori care creeaz
colecii de mici dimensiuni, n cadrul Reclaim To
Wear. Alturi de nume cunoscute n mod Top-
shop sau Speedo, ea reuete s concentreze i
s promoveze o expoziie pe aceast tem, la
Hong Kong Upcycling Fashion and Sustainable
Living Exhibition (UPlife2013).
Tnra designer Andreea Badal este una
dintre studentele mele, care, dup ce a studiat
mod la UNAB i ulterior tehnologia tiparelor la
College of Fashion, Londra, a urmat stagii prac-
tice la creatorii de mod Richard Nicoll, Tata-
Naka, Emilio de la Morena i Alexander Mcque-
en. n multe din creaiile ei recente, foarte
apreciate de critica revistelor de specialitate
(Vogue UK) i de vedetele internaionale bine-
cunoscute precum Lady Gaga, Britney Spears i
Beyonce, ea conrm pasiunea pentru piesele
vestimentare i tiparele retro, pe care le com-
bin cu tehnologii noi cum ar contaminrile
grace i decupajele textile laser cut. nc
de la lansarea propriului brand, creatoarea par-
ticip n expoziii i manifestri de grup cum
ar cea mai recent, de la sptmna modei
de la Londra (13 februarie, 2013) iniiativ a
centrului cultural Romn The rest is tomorrow
reprezentnd cu succes avangarda modei
romneti.
Reciclarea inovativ este un subiect viu ce
nu i-a ncheiat ciclul, un proiect n cretere
pentru c e nscut din pasiune, etic i respon-
sabilitate.
112
Delia Vasile, Early Delights, 2009
113
Alexandru Raicu, Recycle your love, 2013
114
Designul suprafeelor textile
n moda contemporan
The design of textile surfaces
in contemporary fashion
n lunga tradiie artistic a Departamentu-
lui Mod al UNAB, o contribuie semnicativ o
aduce educaia creativ n moda contemporan
i, n paralel, experimentul i designul inovativ.
Permanent obiectivul principal este acela de a
dezvolta ulterior capaciti creative i artistice
autonome i capabile s gseasc soluii n pro-
blematici complexe i dicile. Astfel, atelierul,
proiectele practice i de manualitate sunt n cen-
trul metodei noastre de studiu. Cursul Concept
i exprimare propune o atmosfer cu o progra-
m educaional explorativ, orientat ctre ex-
periment, n care studentul este provocat, n ca-
drul unei anumite tematici, s i creeze propriul
suport material, ca baz a unei viitoare piese
vestimentare originale.
n enciclopedia tehnicilor de croitorie, ghidul
practic pentru profesioniti (un exemplu este vo-
lumul The Dressmakers Handbook of Couture
Sewing Techniques a lui Lynda Maynard, editat
de ctre Interweave; Spi, ediia din 21 decembrie
2010), sunt prezentate tehnici clasice de nisaj
n construcia vemintelor, pe care le nvm
i le considerm corecte atunci cnd privim din
acelai unghi detaliile i transformrile materia-
lelor textile. Privind din perspectiva estetic, ne
ndreaptm ctre sensibilitatea materialitilor,
expresivitatea lor artistic i n special ctre ca-
pacitatea acestora de a vibra n construcia unui
vemnt care genereaz spectacol vizual.
Nici tehnic, nici estetic nu mai exist limite n
creaia de mod, sau cel puin asta observm de
mai mult de 50 de ani n creaiile designerilor i n
caietele de tendine prezentate la evenimentele
din ecare sezon Premire Vision Paris, Frana,
Heimtexil Frankfurt, Germania, ComoCrea sau
Mood Bruxelles, Belgia.
Cercetarea n domeniul textil, azi, ne uimete
i ajunge s mping limitele pn la combinaia
dintre tehnologie, electronic i textile, micro-
computere i re textile.
n expoziia Futurotextiles de la Muzeul
Naional de Istorie a Romniei, din Bucureti
The innovative recycling is an actual topic
which has not completed its cycle, an increas-
ing process as it is born from passion, ethics and
responsibility.
Related to a long artistic tradition of the
Fashion Department of the National Art Univer-
sity, Bucharest, the creative education in the
contemporary fashion as well as the innovative
experiment and design represent signicant con-
tributions. The main objective always consisted
in the subsequent development of creative and
autonomous artistic capacities capable of nding
solutions in complex and difcult contexts. Thus,
the studio, the practical and manual projects,
represent the essence of our method of study.
The course, Concept and expression suggests
an explorative educational program, oriented to-
wards the idea of experiment, in which the stu-
dent is provoked within some topic to create his
own material support, as the basis of a future
original clothing item.
In the encyclopedia referring to tailoring
techniques, the practical guide for profession-
als (for example, Lynda Maynards volume, The
Dressmakers Handbook of Couture Sewing Tech-
niques, edited by Interweave; Spi, the edition
from December 21, 2010) presents classical
techniques in the construction of garments which
we learn and consider correct when we consider
the details and transformations of textile mate-
rials from the same perspective. From the aes-
thetic perspective, our explorations are oriented
towards the sensibility of materiality, their artistic
expressiveness and especially towards their ca-
pacity to vibrate in one garments construction,
generating a visual performance.
In the fashion area there are no limits, either
technically or aesthetically, or at least this is what
we have noticed for more than 50 years in the de-
signers creations and the catalogues presented
115
Rzvan Clinceanu, Design your own material, 2013
116
Patricia Adascaliei, Recycle your love, 2013
Dijana Gorgieva, Manly redened woman, 2009
at the specic events each season Premire Vi-
sion Paris, France, Heimtexil Frankfurt, Germany,
ComoCrea or Mood Brusells, Belgium.
Nowadays in the domain of textiles, we are
astonished by the related research which aims
to push the limits to the combination between
technology, electronics and textiles, micro-com-
puters and textile threads.
At the Futurotextiles exhibition organised
at the National Museum of History, Romania,
Bucharest (October 15 November 17, 2013),
they presented some of the new ndings in the
contemporary evolution of weavings and its nu-
merous types of usage. The innovations in the
domain of contemporary textiles reach the limits
117
of ction by spectacularly combining the applied
art with fashion and the latest technology. The
exhibition, organised for the 3rd time, present-
ed not only the latest news in the domain but
also the previsions emphasising and announcing
more attention to ecology and natural bres.
In order to create more interesting textures
and surfaces for the garments, in the studio ses-
sions we practise manipulation techniques to be
applied in the eld of textiles, helping the student
to get a certain degree of control and a complex
knowledge of different materials and textile n-
ishings. The spontaneous improvisation and the
already accumulated experience permanently
reveal the way we should keep the most differ-
ent and opposing materials in balance through
collages or juxtapositions, braidings, colouring,
destruction or upon heating.
Without making qualitative differences be-
tween the cult and the artisanal art, we try to
balance the polemics of materialities by means of
associations in a mixture of techniques and delicate
materials (for example: wool, silk threads) with new
materials (acetates, lycra, tyvek or plastic).
The selection of structures and materials is
essential in the fashion design, in the modelling,
technique and architecture of each item.
A stylistic and unique tactile experience can
be further conducted and transposed in numer-
ous ways, until it becomes a subject to develop a
whole fashion collection stimulating commercial
success. What is odd is the fact that the endless
source of beauty the ideal of consumption is
creativity, uniqueness, originality and the avant-
garde art which is challenging and experimental.
For creators and the students of the Fashion
Department from the National Art Bucharest,
who are further interested in the recovery and
exploration in innovative materials, the way in
which we always succeed in radically recycling
our ideas in an artistic or poetical approach
of imperfection and personality, or in the way
we revolutionize the classical forms of fashion,
endowed with the artisans precision and the
qualication of the avant-garde artist, all this
becomes a great provocation.
As a student, I was lucky to study at the Na-
tional University of Arts Bucharest, after I had
(15 octombrie 17 noiembrie, 2013), au fost
prezentate cteva din noile descoperiri n
evoluia contemporan a esturii i nume-
roasele ei ntrebuinri. Inovaiile n textilele
contemporane ating limitele ciunii, mbinnd
spectaculos moda cu arta aplicat i tehnologia
de ultim or. Expoziia aat la a III-a ediie
a prezentat, pe lng ultimele nouti din do-
meniu, i previziunile care subliniaz i anun
o atenie focalizat ctre ecologie, ultralejer i
bre naturale.
Pentru a crea texturi i suprafee ct mai
interesante pentru veminte, n cadrul sesiuni-
lor de atelier practicm tehnici de manipulare a
textilelor, care ajut studentul s capete un con-
trol i o cunoatere ampl a diverselor materiale
i nisaje textile. Improvizaia spontan dar i
experiena acumulat, ne dezvluie permanent
cum s armonizm materiale din cele mai diferite
i contradictorii prin colaj ori prin suprapunere,
mpletire, colorare, distrugere ori sub efectul cl-
durii.
Fr a face diferene calitative ntre arta cul-
t i cea artizanal, ncercm s echilibrm po-
lemica materialitilor prin asociere ntr-un mix
de tehnici i de materiale delicate (cum sunt: chi-
fon, ln, re de mtase) cu materiale noi (geo-
spun, acetate, lycra, tyvek sau plastic).
Selecia structurilor i a materialitilor este
esenial n designul de mod, n modelarea, teh-
nica i arhitectura ecrei piese.
O experien stilistic, dar i tactil unic,
poate condus i transpus mai departe n nenu-
mrate moduri, pn la a deveni un subiect pentru
dezvoltarea unei ntregi colecii de mod cu suc-
ces comercial. Contradictoriu este faptul c sursa
nesfrit a frumosului idealul de consum
este creativitatea, unicitatea, originalitatea i arta
de avangard, provocatoare i experimental.
Pentru creatori, dar i pentru studenii De-
partamentului Mod din UNAB interesai mai
departe de fenomenul recuperrii i al explorrii
n materiale inovative, devine o mare provocare
felul n care reuim permanent s ne reciclm ra-
dical ideile ntr-o abordare artistic ori poetic a
imperfeciunii, a personalitii sau cu idealul de a
revoluiona formele clasice ale modei, cu precizia
artizanului i calicarea artistului de avangard.
118
Una dintre ultimele teme, Recycling your love, n care eu i studenii ne purtm creaiile, 2013
One of the latest topics, Recycling your love, in which me and the students wear our own creation, 2013
completed the high-school; I graduated from
the Fashion Department. During the ve years I
studied and experimented in the departments
studios in a profoundly human and warm con-
text, dened by a high degree of profession-
alism and moral attitude, and coordinated by
some acknowledged professors, especially by
professor Unda Popp.
Eager to understand and experience in all
projects, no matter it they were focused on ex-
hibitions, events, fashion performances, or even
lms, we formed a core of students together; to-
day these students are my colleagues Rzvan
Vasilescu, Liliana Turoiu and Venera Arapu.
This year, when the National University of
Arts, Bucharest, celebrates its 150th anniversary,
I am honoured to be part of the group of profes-
sors teaching at the Fashion Department, a de-
partment which has developed and modernized
in a spirit of vanguardist and original spirit.
Happy beautiful years, the National Univer-
sity of Arts, Bucharest!
Ca student am avut ansa i norocul de
a studia, dup finalizarea liceului de arte n
cadrul UNAB. Aici am absolvit cu specializare
n cadrul Departamentului Mod. n cei 5 ani
am studiat i experimentat n atelierele seciei
ntr-un cadru profund uman, cald, de un nalt
profesionalism i inut moral, sub coordona-
rea distinilor profesori i n special a profesor
Unda Popp.
Deschii s nelegem i s experimentm
n toate proiectele, e c au fost expoziii, eve-
nimente, prezentri de mod, chiar i lm, am
format mpreun un nucleu de studeni din care
azi m bucur c i am colegi nc pe Rzvan Vasi-
lescu, Liliana uroiu i Venera Arapu.
Anul acesta, la mplinirea frumoasei vrste
de 150 de ani de activitate i tradiie UNAB, sunt
onorat c fac parte din colectivul de profesori
de la Mod, departament care s-a dezvoltat i
modernizat ntr-un spirit de libertate avangardist
i original.
La muli ani frumoi UNAB!
119
Diana Dima, Design your own material, 2013
120
Liliana UROIU
lector universitar doctor
lecturer doctor
121
Am visat, am sperat, am studiat zile i
nopi mpreun cu colegii de generaie n ate-
lierele UNAB. Am muncit mult, am expus, am
experimentat, am druit, am crezut, am iubit,
am crescut n aceast coal. Asemeni mul-
tor artiti formai aici, am rmas ireversibil n
suet cu aceast a doua cas atelierul din
str. Grivia, nr. 28, vibrnd alturi de aceast a
doua mare familie lumea artitilor plastici ai
generaiei mele.
Aici am cunoscut maetrii le-am ascultat
povetile, am desenat i am ncercat s neleg
ecare corectur fcut ecrei lucrri. Mai tr-
ziu, am absolvit facultatea, masterul, doctoratul,
m-am maturizat, am predat, am cltorit, am ex-
pus n ar i n afara ei, am devenit designer
profesionist, manager, soie, mam.
i, m-am ntors de ecare dat cu aceeai
plcere, admiraie, dragoste, respect... la coal.
Mi se pare incredibil de special i de frumos acest
loc unic din centrul Bucuretiului cu experienele,
ntlnirile, leciile de via extraordinare pe care
i le poate oferi. Aici sunt colegii mei, priete-
nii, dasclii, oamenii pe care i respect i de la
care am nvat arta, istoria ei, desen, culoare,
compoziie. Aici am trit emoia puternic a e-
crui examen n cei nou ani minunai de studiu
i cercetare, dar i bucuria imens a nalului e-
crei expoziii de semestru. Aici am simit bucuria
cunoaterii i bucuria succesului, ce nu a ntrziat
s apar dup mult munc. Aici am vzut cum
Moda ca pasiune, profesie
i stil de via
I had dreamt, hoped and studied for days
and nights together with my generation col-
leagues in the studios of the National University
of Arts. I had worked a lot, I had exhibitions, I
experimented, I offered a lot, I believed, I loved
and I developed at this school. Like many other
artists, who were educated here, I remained
with this second home in my soul for good the
studio in Grivia street, 28, vibrating by the side
of this second large family my world of visual
artists.
This was the place where I met the great
masters, I listened to their stories, I kept draw-
ing and tried to understand each proof-reading
they had made. Later, I graduated from the Art
Faculty, MA, PhD, I became more mature, I also
taught, travelled and organized exhibitions in the
country and abroad, I became a professional de-
signer, a manager, mother and wife.
And each time I returned with the same pleas-
ure, admiration, love and respect to school. This
unique place in the centre of Bucharest, with its
experience, meetings and extraordinary life les-
sons, seems incredibly special and beautiful. Here
are my colleagues, friends, teachers, the people I
respect, from which I learned art and its history,
the drawing, colours and composition. This was
the place where I experienced not only the pow-
erful emotion of each exam during the nine won-
derful years of study and research but also the
immense joy of each semester exhibition. Here
Fashion as passion, profession
and lifestyle
122
Liliana uroiu, Expoziia de art i costum Sur les toits de Paris, expus la Athne Palace Hilton, Bucureti, 2013
Liliana uroiu, Art and costume exhibition Sur les toits de Paris, Athne Palace Hilton, Bucharest, 2013
123
au crescut generaii de studeni frumoi, creativi,
talentai... de ecare dat altfel!
n acest context al artelor plastice i decora-
tive din cadrul UNAB, am ales Moda ca specialita-
te. Nu ntmpltor. E fascinant cum moda poate
reda ceea ce se ntmpl n lume la un moment
dat, ind astfel, n timp, o radiograe del a tu-
turor epocilor. Dac moda are acum propriul su
imperiu global (i acest lucru este evident atunci
cnd cltoreti dintr-o ar n alta sau atunci
cnd vizitezi un trg de specialitate, e el la Paris,
New York, Barcelona sau Londra), totui lucrurile
nu au stat ntotdeauna aa. Ca artiti, suntem ex-
trem de sensibili la mesajele epocii n care trim,
dar este vital s nelegem i s aprofundm do-
meniul n care ne construim propriul demers, cu-
noscnd istoria diverselor perioade ale artei i ale
vemntului. Orice persoan interesat de mod
poate realiza, de exemplu, c n anii 20 n care
femeile i taie prul i i scurteaz fusta pentru
prima dat n istorie ceva radical se ntmpla la
nivel mondial. Sau mai trziu n anii 60 ntr-un mod
mult mai subtil, prin mrirea volumului umerilor
sau prin alte detalii de cromatic i croi, intuim
dorina evident a femeilor de a-i face loc ntr-o
lume a brbailor. Libertatea sexual din anii 60
70 este cu siguran vizibil n evoluia istoric
a hainelor, de la moda strzii pn la costumul
de baie.
mpreun cu studenii ecrei generaii am
ncercat s descifrez mesajul pe care l transmite
moda astzi. Dup ecare expoziie sau trg de la
Paris, Dsseldorf, Londra sau New York am anali-
zat resorturile ce au fcut posibile apariiile unor
tendine i am ncercat de ecare dat, n atelier,
s gsim soluii personale, originale n cadrul -
ecrei teme discutate. Ne-am ntrebat, pe bun
dreptate, oare cuvntul mod n accepiunea
sa de pn acum, mai poate cuprinde formele
complexe de exprimare, profesiunile ce s-au dez-
voltat la grania cu alte domenii? Va oare ne-
voie n curnd de un alt cuvnt care s cuprind
complexitatea uimitoare a acestui domeniu?
Din ce n ce mai mult, tot ceea ce facem ca
designeri nceteaz s mai e o profesie sau un
mecanism i tinde s devin o cale de explorare
deschis a sinelui i a celor din jur. Trim ntr-o
lume a informaiei, n care moda poate o mo-
I felt the excitement of knowledge and the joy
of success which were felt soon afterwards. This
was the place which kept stimulating generations
of good-looking, creative and talented students
each time more differently!
In this context of visual and decorative arts
at the National University of Arts Bucharest, I
have chosen Fashion to be my specialty. Not inci-
dentally. It is fascinating to see how fashion can
reveal all that occurs in the world at a certain mo-
ment expressing a sincere radiography of all ep-
ochs. If at the moment fashion has its own global
empire (and this is obvious when you travel from
a country to another or when you visit a special-
ized fair, no matter if that is in Paris, New York,
Barcelona or London), however the situation was
not always like that.
As artists, we are extremely sensible to the
messages of our epoch yet it is vital to under-
stand and improve the domain in which we form
our own approach, being aware of the history
of different artistic periods. For instance, any
person, who is interested in fashion, can realize
that in the 20s when women cut their hair and
shortened their skirt for the rst time in history
something radical was happening at the global
level. Or later, in the 60s, in a more subtle way,
by increasing the volume of shoulders or through
other chromatic and device details, we notice the
womens obvious desire to have a certain posi-
tion in a world of men. The sexual libert in the
60s and 70s is certainly visible in the historical
evolution of clothing, from the street fashion to
the bathing suit.
Together with the students of each genera-
tion I tried to decode the message transmitted
by fashion nowadays. After each exhibition or
fair in Paris, Dsseldorf, London or New York, I
analyzed the resorts which stimulated the emer-
gence of some tendencies and each time, in the
studio, we tried to nd personal and original solu-
tions in the context of each topic.
We were right to wonder if a term like fash-
ion in its actual acception, can still comprise
the complex forms of expression, the professions
developed at the border with other domains.
Shall we soon need another word to comprise
the amazing complexity of this domain?
124
Liliana uroiu, Expoziia de art i costum Sur les toits de Paris, expus la Athne Palace Hilton, Bucureti, 2013
Liliana uroiu, Art and costume exhibition Sur les toits de Paris, Athne Palace Hilton, Bucharest, 2013
125
126
dalitate surprinztoare i amuzant de a orches-
tra spectacolul general de idei. Pentru desig-
nerii de azi, media este o tem fundamental,
iar web-ul, blog-ul i derivatele lor sunt puncte
focale ale preocuprilor cotidiene. Jocul parodic
cu istoria, melanjul i juxtapunerea unor curente
diametral opuse ca mesaj, stabilirea unor noi ra-
porturi ntre brbai i femei, vizualul televizat i
lumea virtual, tensiunea ntre globalism i mul-
ticulturalism au adus n mod i art o evident
relativizare i incertitudine a ntregului sistem de
valori, dar i la posibiliti de exprimare nen-
grdite. Toate acestea nu sunt dect manifes-
tri postmoderne, specice perioadei actuale, n
care noi tipuri de relaii, extrem de complexe, se
stabilesc ntre individ i grup, coal sau socie-
tate. Aceste relaii sunt adesea suprancrcate
de diverse discursuri externe voit destabiliza-
toare, de natur s declaneze lupte interne cu
istoria i instituiile disciplinelor n cauz, adesea
invocate, admirate, dorite, suspectate sau res-
pinse deopotriv. Toate acestea vorbesc despre
More and more, all that we do as design-
ers stops being a profession or mechanism and
aims to be an open exploration of the self and
the ones around. We live in a world of infor-
mation, where fashion can be a surprising and
amusing modality to conduct the general show
of ideas. For our designers, media represents
a fundamental topic and the webs, blogs and
their derivates are essential points of daily pre-
occupations. The parodic game with history, the
mixture and juxtaposition of some trends, which
are diametrically opposed as messages, the es-
tablishment of some new connections between
men and women, the TV visual and the virtual
world, the pressure between globalism and mul-
ticulturalism had brought, in fashion and art, an
evident relativity and uncertainty of the whole
system of values but also unlimited possibilities
of expression.
All these are nothing but postmodern mani-
festations characteristic of the present period of
time promoting new types of extremely complex
Liliana uroiu, Expoziia de art i costum Sur les toits de Paris, expus la Athne Palace Hilton, Bucureti, 2013
Liliana uroiu, Art and costume exhibition Sur les toits de Paris, Athne Palace Hilton, Bucharest, 2013
127
Dalia Poleac, Documentare Colecia Urban Tribes, 2010
Dalia Poleac, Documentaries the Urban Tribes Collection, 2010
distrugerea matricei social-culturale a vechiului
tip de contiin, aa cum subliniaz majorita-
tea teoreticienilor postmoderniti, negnd cu-
tarea n tiin a generalului i universalului i
evideniind particularul, localul, singularul i mai
ales ceea ce este specic minoritarului. S-a n-
tmplat nu de puine ori ca Postmodernismul s
postuleze moarte artei.
Isabelle de Maison Rouge arma de curnd
c ... arta nu se mai denete ca o succesiune
de micri, ci ca produsul unor personaliti i ca
expresie a anumitor minoriti ce utilizeaz arta
ca pe o lupt mpotriva unei culturi hegemoni-
ce. (...) Arta nu este ns pe patul de moarte,
rupturile care o fac s evolueze sunt absorbite
la rndul lor pentru a se ciocni de noi forme de
gndire care la rndul lor vor puse n discuie.
Este tocmai ciclul vieii i al morii... Raportul cu
timpul i cu ceilali se schimb.
Lucruri similare se ntmpl i n mod. Astzi
poi transmite mesaje sociale, poi revoltat sau
ironic printr-o colecie sau prin vemnt. Poi pro-
relationships between individuals and groups,
school and society. These connections are of-
ten overloaded with various external discourses
which are meant to de-stabilize, to stir internal
struggles against history and the institutions of
disciplines, which are either invoked, admired,
desired, suspected or simultaneously rejected.
All these refer to the destruction of the social
cultural matrix of the old conscience type, as
stated by the great majority of postmodern the-
oreticians, denying the search for the general
and generic in science, and emphasizing the
particular, the local, the singular and especially
the specic elements of the minority. It had al-
ready occurred that Postmodernism postulated
the death of art.
Lately Isabelle de Maison Rouge stated that
... art is no longer dened as a succession of
movements, but as the product of some person-
alities and expression of certain minorities using
art as a struggle against a hegemonic culture.
(...) However, art is not dieing, the ruptures
128 129
Dalia Poleac, Colecia de accesorii Metropola, cu ocazia concursului Tchibo Inspir prin gestul tu, 2009
Dalia Poleac, The collection of accessories Metropola, the Tchibo contest Inspire through your gesture, 2009
130
pune o soluie vestimentar elegant, dar care
s nu e la mod i invers. Imaginea nseam-
n astzi mult pentru att de muli oameni. Ca
ine umane, noi suntem dependeni de noutate.
Moda comunic n limbaj vizual despre propria
identitate. Dar ntrebarea reasc este: putem
ntotdeauna citii aa cum ecare i dorete s
e citit de ceilali?
Lucrurile s-au schimbat considerabil odat
cu anii 70, atunci cnd moda strzii a cptat
o foarte mare importan. Treptat, moda de-
signerilor de top i a couturierilor a rmas ntr-
un alt plan, iar industria modei a devenit una
din cele mai mari la nivel mondial, ntr-un fel n
care nu a fost niciodat nainte. i lucrul pe care
avem tendina de a-l uita este c industria mo-
dei este incredibil de tnr. Moda ca industrie
este listat deja pe diverse piee bursiere. Ea
a devenit att de mare, att de repede, cci e
which make it develop are also absorbed, then
they bump into new forms of thinking which are
also going to be analyzed... it is exactly the cycle
of life and death... the connection with time and
the others is changing.
Similar things are happening in fashion as
well. Today you can transmit social messages,
you can be revolted or ironical by means of a
collection or your clothing. You can suggest an
elegant clothing which might not mean fashion
and vice versa. Nowadays the image means a
lot for so many people. As human beings, we
are dependent on novelty. Fashion communi-
cates its own identity in a visual language. Yet
the natural question is: can we always be read
just like each of us wishes to be read by the
others?
Things have considerably changed in the
70s when the street art became very important.
131
Dalia Poleac, Colecia Urban Tribes, 2010
Dalia Poleac, Urban Tribes collection, 2010
aproape imposibil s ne imaginm c nimic din
toate acestea nu au existat n urm cu 50 de ani
i c moda a fost n cea mai mare parte dezvol-
tat la nivel local. Acest lucru a fcut o mulime
de oameni foarte bogai, a urcat cota anumitor
designeri la nivel de celebritate, dar a creat, de
asemenea o situaie n care, pentru orice compa-
nie care este public exist o cerere trimestrial
constant de a raporta ctiguri mai mari. Acest
lucru a condus ntr-o anumit msur la viziuni
pe termen scurt n gndirea strategic, lucru ce
nu este, fr ndoial, bun pentru mod. i, la
un moment dat, va trebui s ne ntrebm resc:
ct de mare este destul de mare? Dar indubitabil
moda ne mai nva un lucru: ceea ce urc tre-
buie s i coboare la un moment dat.
Se poate analiza astzi moda n context poli-
tic. Prin felul n care opteaz s se mbrace, unii
oameni adopt voit diverse uniforme proprii unui
Gradually, the fashion created by top designers
and couturiers remained in another context, and
the fashion industry became one of the greatest
at global level, in a way it had never been before.
And the detail we tend to forget - fashion indus-
try is incredibly young. In industry fashion has
already been listed on different stock markets.
It became so large, so soon, that it is almost im-
possible to imagine that none of this existed 50
years ago, that fashion was mostly developed at
a local level.
All this made a great deal of people very
rich, it increased the shares of some designers
making them even more well-known, yet it also
created a situation in which, for any public com-
pany, there is a constant trimestrial demand to
report higher incomes. This also facilitated the
creation of some short-term visions in the stra-
tegic way of thinking, which is certainly not very
132
context sau unui grup social i devin mult mai
determinai i mai hotri n ceea ce au de fcut.
Dincolo de toate profesiunile modei ce
s-au dezvoltat la grania cu alte domenii, am
considerat de o importan notabil faptul c
moda i arta au fost ntotdeauna n strns le-
gtur. Exist paralele evidente ntre ceea ce
se ntmpl n art i ceea ce se ntmpl n
mod. Aceste domenii au fost ntotdeauna le-
gate. Putem privi napoi la clasicismul de sfrit
de secol al XVIII-lea i la aspectul modei Empi-
re, sau ctre Art Nouveau, Impresionism, Expre-
sionism, Cubism i apoi s descoperim aceleai
idei n moda vremii. Un lucru este evident: mult
timp designerii de mod s-au format n colile de
art, mpreun cu artitii din celelalte domenii ale
artei. Au nvat s compun, s echilibreze, s
dezvolte concepte n aceeai manier i au fost
n egal msur sensibili la epoca n care au trit,
unii dintre ei reuind magistral s o depeasc.
Dup douzeci de ani petrecui n aceast
coal, mereu alta i totui aceeai de la nce-
puturile ei, mi dau seama ct de privilegiat este
statutul pe care i-l confer, ct de importante
sunt bazele pe care le dobndeti aici pentru a
nelege mai trziu diversitatea i diversiunile, va-
rietatea i concurena paradigmelor ce ne inund
mintea i existena, multiplicitatea i coexistena
eterogenului pe care l asimilm resc sau l res-
pingem.
Dup douzeci de ani petrecui n aceast
coal mi dau seama c te poi ndrgosti ire-
mediabil de locul acesta fabulos ale crui coor-
donate vor rmne sensibilitatea i dragostea
necondiionat pentru art!
Pentru mine i pentru ali colegi ai departa-
mentului, moda a devenit indiscutabil un stil de
via!
La muli ani, UNAB!
good for fashion. And, at a certain moment, we
shall have to naturally wonder: how big is the big
enough? But, without any doubt, fashion teaches
us something more: what ascends also descends
at a certain moment.
Today fashion can be analyzed in a political
context. Through the way some people choose to
dress, they willingly adopt different uniforms den-
ing a context or a social group and become more
determined and resolute in everything they do.
Beyond all the professions related to fashion,
developing at the border with other domains, I
can say that fashion and art were always strict-
ly connected to each other. There are obvious
parallels between what happens in art and what
happens in fashion. These domains were always
related to each other. We can look back to Classi-
cism at the end of the 18th century, to the aspect
of Empire fashion, or to Art Nouveau, Impres-
sionism, Expressionism or Cubism, and then nd
the same ideas in the fashion of time.
Something is obvious: for a long time, fash-
ion designers had been educated in art schools,
together with artists connected to other domains
of art. They learned to compose, balance, and
develop concepts according to the same meth-
ods, and were equally sensible to the epoch they
shared, and some of these went far beyond.
After twenty years spent at this school, which
is permanently different and still the same, I real-
ize how privileged your status is, how important
the basis you get really is, in order to subse-
quently understand the paradigms diversity and
diversions, variety and rivalry, overwhelming our
mind and existence, the multiplicity and co-exist-
ence of the heterogeneous, which we naturally
assimilate or ignore.
After twenty years spent at this school I re-
alize you can irremediably fall in love with this
fabulous place, whose main elements are dened
by the unstipulated sensibility and love for art!
For me and other colleagues of this depart-
ment, fashion has unquestionably become a life-
style!
Happy birthday, the National University of
Arts Bucharest!
133
Dalia Poleac, Colecia Black & White, 2010
Dalia Poleac, Black & White collcetion, 2010
134
Liliana uroiu, Expoziia de art i costum Sur les toits de Paris, expus la Athne Palace Hilton, Bucureti, 2013
Liliana uroiu, Art and costume exhibition Sur les toits de Paris, Athne Palace Hilton, Bucharest, 2013
135
136
Aurelia POMPONIU
confereniar universitar doctor
senior lecturer doctor
137
Fabuloasa lume a modei, capabil s ui-
measc prin inepuizabila sa capacitate de meta-
morfozare a mijloacelor de expresie specice, se
dovedete a mereu un domeniu incitant pentru
creator i beneciar, deopotriv.
Figura uman conceput ca prezen ge-
neratoare de spectacol, cu posibiliti nelimi-
tate de rennoire, recongurare i de redenire
vizual prin vemnt, continu s e i n se-
colul al XXI-lea o preocupare major a fashion
designerilor din marile centre ale modei. Tendin-
ele promovate de ctre unele grupri artistice i
personaliti avangardiste ale domeniului, aduc
n atenie haina, ca noutate ocant, ce st sub
semnul originalitii integrale. Acest tip de m-
brcminte face trimitere la specicul estetic al
vestimentaiei non-funcionale, a crui principal
justicare se refer la ineditul spectacolului oferit
de purttorul ei.
Spre nele anului 1980, aceste tendine,
inspirate din programele micrilor artistice ale
secolului al XX-lea, par a-i epuizat resursele.
Treptat, se contureaz premisele unei oferte noi,
izvorte din arsenalul formulrilor specice stilu-
rilor anterioare celor de inspiraie modern. Aa
apare Postmodernismul.
Integrate conceptului de postmodernism,
unele tendine ale modei actuale aduc n dis-
cuie tentativele programate de reluare i
aprofundare a unor efecte vizuale cunoscute la
nivelul vemntului feminin la mod, n perioa-
Gnduri la ceas aniversar
The fabulous world of fashion, capable of
surprising us through the limitless metamorphos-
ing capacity of its specic means of expression,
always proves to be a challenging domain not only
for the creator but also for the beneciary.
The human gure, conceived as a presence
generating the show, provided with the number-
less possibilities of the visual renewal, re-cong-
uration and re-denition by means of garments,
keeps being a major preoccupation of great fash-
ion designers in the famous fashion centres of the
21st century. The trends promoted by some artis-
tic groups and the avant-garde personalities of the
domain, emphasise the clothing as some shocking
novelty inuenced by the integral originality. This
type of clothing refers to the esthetic specicity
of the non-functional clothing whose main moti-
vation refers to the novelty of the performance
provided by its carrier.
Around the end of 1980, these trends, inspired
from the programs of the artistic movements of
the 20th century, seem to have exhausted their
resources. Gradually, we notice the premises of a
new offer, derived from the arsenal of the formu-
lations which are specic to the styles preceding
those associated with modern inspiration. This is
the way Postmodernism emerged.
Integrated into the concept of postmodern-
ism, some trends of the actual fashion emphasize
the scheduled attempts to reconsider and develop
some visual effects noticed at the level of female
Anniversary thoughts
138 139
140
Diana Mihana, Studiu de materialiti, 2013
Diana Mihana, A study of materiality, 2013
dele anterioare. Se nregistreaz cea mai mare
libertate n alegerea formulelor de mbrcmin-
te, att n planul creaiei, ct i al beneciarilor.
Fiecare e liber s conceap i s poarte ce i pla-
ce, prelund din stilurile precedente ce-i convine.
Condiia succesului presupune ns ca vemntul
realizat sau purtat s aib coeren estetic vizu-
al. Din aceast perspectiv, liniile modei postmo-
derniste oscileaz ntre justicri de ordin practic
i funcional i motivaii de ordin moral, psiholo-
gic, estetic sau ritual. Piesele de mbrcminte
ilustreaz dinamica relaiei dintre modernitate,
permanen i desuetudine, punnd n valoare vi-
zual ceea ce altdat comporta diverse restricii.
ntr-un asemnea context socio-economic i
cultural, pregtirea viitorilor designeri vestimen-
tari n cadrul seciilor de mod ale universitilor
de art este un proces complex, care presupune
o dubl rut de formare. Pe de o parte, este,
garmets in fashion during the previous periods of
time. We observe the widest degree of freedom in
the selection of clothing items both in the context of
creation and in the one of beneciaries. Everybody
is free to conceive and wear whatever he likes over-
taking what he prefers from the previous styles.
However, in order to be successul, the already
made or worn garment must express a visual es-
thetic coherence. From this viewpoint, the lines
of postmodern fashion oscillate between practical
and functional justications and moral, psycholog-
ical, esthetic and ritual motivations. The items of
clothing illustrate the dynamics of the connection
between modernity, permanence and desuetude
by visually highlighting what used to emphasise
different restrictions.
In such a socio-economic and cultural context
the training of future fashion designers in the Fash-
ion departments of Art Universities is a complex
141
Studiu de materialiti, 2013
A study of materiality, 2013
142
vorba de nsuirea problematicii creaiei formelor
artistice decorative, iar pe de alt parte, de im-
plementarea unei programe de nsuire corect a
particularitilor tehnologice i estetice ale diver-
selor tipuri de suprafee textile. Fr cunoaterea
acestor proprieti caliti i defecte nu poate
conceput pregtirea creatorului n domeniul
vestimentaiei.
Motivaia acestui modul educaional se ba-
zeaz i pe faptul c puini tineri mai cunosc
specicul diverselor categorii de suprafee textile
i compatibilitatea lor n relaie cu specicul pro-
iectului artistic. Pn n pragul celui de al doilea
rzboi mondial, orice femeie tia proprietile
cel puin ale unor materiale esute, cu denumi-
rile proprii. Astzi, puine persoane mai tiu s
explice ce tip de estur este canganul, sate-
nul, batistul, atlazul, taftaua sau ripsul i prin ce
caliti se impune ecare. Proprietile de aspru
sau moale, neted sau lucios, rigid sau maleabil /
exibil, tare sau moale primeaz atunci cnd este
vorba de realizarea unui tip de vemnt. La aces-
tea mai trebuie adugat coloraia materialului.
Pentru publicul consumator asemenea dis-
tincii nu mai au importan, dat ind i oferta
diversicat a confeciilor vestimentare, proble-
mele apar ns, cnd aceste cunotine lipsesc
din pregtirea viitorilor designeri vestimentari.
Materialele tradiionale i materialele nou
aprute, mai ales cele articiale i de sintez chi-
mic, trebuiesc studiate din perspectiva calitilor
specice ecrui tip. Relaia dintre natura mate-
riei prime i procedeele tehnologice de obinere,
precum i de valorare plastic a suprafeei textile,
n condiii de manualitate sau n procesul de rea-
lizare industrial este indisolubil legat de innita
diversitate a efectelor estetice de structur, tex-
tur i contextur. Fr o cunoatere temeinic a
nsuirilor specice brelor, relor i suprafeelor
textile, cu particularitile determinate de tehno-
logiile i instrumentarul propriu, un viitor creator
de mod nu va putea imprima proiectului su
vestimentar calitile estetice i expresivitile
plastice pe care le-a imaginat.
Astzi, foarte multi artiti i designeri de
renume exploreaz limbajul brelor i al re-
lor n creaia lor vestimentar. Efectul grac de
punct-linie i efectul de plin-gol, rezultate din
process presuming a double route of formation.
On one hand, it is about the assimilation of topics
regarding the creation of artistic decorative forms,
and on the other hand, about the implementation
of a program in order to assimilate the technologi-
cal and esthetic particular characteristics of differ-
ent types of textile surfaces in an accurate way.
Without knowing these properties qualities and
deciencies the creators training in the eld of
fashion cannot be conceived.
The motivation of this educational module also
relies on the fact that there are few young people
who are aware of the specicity of various catego-
ries of textile surfaces and their compatibility as-
sociated with the specic attributes of the artistic
project. Until the threshold of the last World War
any woman was familiar with the characteristics of
some woven materials, and their own names.
Nowadays, there are few persons who can ex-
plain what type of fabric the satin, taffeta or the
reps are, or their qualities. The peculiarities sug-
gesting the feeling of rough or soft, smooth or lu-
cid, rigid or exible, hard or tender, are essential
when it is about the creation of a garment. All these
are completed with the materials range of colours.
For the public, such differences no longer
matter given the diversied tender of clothing
items, however the problems emerge when the
future fashion designers do not express this
kind of knowledge.
The traditional and recently appeared materi-
als, especially the articial ones or those obtained
through some chemical synthesis, must be studied
from the perspective of each types specic quali-
ties. The relationship between the nature of raw
materials and technological procedures, used to
produce and artistically evaluate the textile surface,
manually or in the process of industrial achieve-
ment, is surely related to the innite diversity of
esthetic effects in matter of structure, texture and
contexture. Without a consistent knowledge of the
specic characteristics in the case of bers and
textile surfaces, or the particular aspects deter-
mined by their own technology or instrumentary,
a future fashion creator will not be able to provide
his fashion project with the esthetic qualities and
artistic expressiveness he had imagined.
Nowadays, there are numerous famous art-
143
ritmica intersectrii relor de urzeal cu cele de
bteal, din ochiurile tricotajului sau din varie-
tatea formelor de pliere, legare i creponare a
textilului pregtit pentru vopsire ofer creato-
rilor de mod o libertate nelimitat n ceea ce
privete conceptul artistic.
Broderia, un alt exemplu de exploatare a
efectului grac linie-punct, are ca principal mijloc
de expresie combinarea ingenioas a punctelor
de custur. Ea completeaz sau substituie su-
prafaa textil, potennd expresivitatea formelor
anatomice sau contribuind la impunerea vizual
a anumitor zone ale siluetei.
Fenomenul nencetatei schimbri de spec-
tacol vizual pe care-l poate oferi ecare prin in-
termediul pieselor de mbrcminte purtate se
raporteaz la schimbri n funcie de materialele
folosite, de croi, de accesorii, de drapaj i, nu n
ultimul rnd, de relaia lor cu corpul uman.
Triumful libertii de a pune n valoare vizu-
al ceea ce altdat comporta diverse restricii
i libertatea total n materie de creaie, de a
folosi fr restricii materiale i accesorii vesti-
mentare e ele detaabile sau xe au de-
terminat anularea granielor rigide dintre arta
minor i arta major.
Pe linia activitilor didactice de nsuire a
limbajului de specialitate i informare despre evo-
luia plastic a tendinelor n creaia de mod, o
pondere semnicativ trebuie acordat i cores-
pondenelor dintre conceptul ideatic i calitile
materialului n care acesta urmeaz a transpus.
Dincolo de limbajul cultural care l desem-
neaz stilist, designer vestimentar, creator
de mod trebuie s recunoatem c asemenea
persoan este un specialist, n a crei pregtire
universitar sunt reunite att disciplinele ce in
de resortul artei, ct i cele care fac trimitere la
secretele meteugului, la psihologia gusturilor
i la sociologia grupurilor i vrstelor umane.
Creaia acestei categorii de artiti, calicat prin
expresia haute couture, presupune totdeauna
o vestimentaie autentic, inconfundabil, con-
ceput de un autor cu o nalt pregtire i un
indiscutabil prestigiu n domeniu.
ists and designers who explore the language of
bers and threads in the clothing creation. The
point graphic effect line and the full-empty ef-
fect, resulted from the rhythm of the intersec-
tion of warp threads with tinsel wires, from the
knitwears loops or the variety of forms used in
folding, binding and creping the textile, in paint-
ing, provide the fashion creators with a limitless
liberty regarding the artistic concept.
Embroideries, another example used to ap-
proach the line-point graphic effect, express the skill-
ful combination of stitches. They complete or replace
the textile surface by emphasizing the expressive-
ness of anatomic forms or contributing to the visual
assertion of some zones of the silhouette.
The phenomenon stimulated by the perma-
nent transformation of visual performances of-
fered through each item of clothing is connected
to changes according to the already used materi-
als, devise, accessories, drapery, and last but not
least, to the relationship with the human body.
The triumph of liberty in visually emphasiz-
ing what used to express different restrictions and
total freedom in creation, while approaching these
without any material restrictions or clothing acces-
sories, no matter if detachable or steady, had de-
termined the annulment of rigid borders between
the low and high art.
In the context of didactic activities developed
to assimilate the specialty language and get the
information regarding the artistic evolution of
trends in fashion, we must pay a signicant atten-
tion to the correspondence between the ideational
concept and the qualities of the material in which
this must be transposed.
Beyond the cultural language suggested
stylist, fashion designer, fashion creator
we must admit that such persons must be spe-
cialists, whose academic training has to re-unite
both those disciplines which are related to art,
and those referring to the secrets of handicraft,
the psychology of preferences and the sociology
of groups and human ages. The creation of this
category of artists, qualied through the haute
couture expression, always expects an authen-
tic and unmistakable clothing, conceived by an
author endowed with a superior training and an
unquestionable prestige in the domain.
144 145
146
Venera ARAPU
lector universitar doctorand
lecturer phd candidate
147
Anul acesta, Universitatea Naional de
Arte din Bucureti srbtorete 150 de ani de
la ninare.
Ca fost student, desigur, a mndr c am
ieit de pe bncile unei coli cu istorie. Ceea
ce este special ns este faptul c aceast sr-
btoare a colii m prinde legat de ea altfel
dect ca fost student, i anume fcnd parte
din echipa de dascli ai Departamentului Mod,
pe care am absolvit-o acum destul de muli ani.
ntmplarea face ca dup absolvirea colii
de la Bucureti, s urmez i cursurile prestigioa-
sei coli de mod ESMOD, din Paris.
De ecare dat cnd cei din jur i manifest
curiozitatea de a aa care este prerea mea n
ceea ce privete subiectul coala n Frana ver-
sus coala n Romnia, resimt aceeai plcere
s pot s-mi exprim punctul de vedere, el ind
total altul fa de ceea ce ateapt interlocutorul
meu. Vreau s spun tuturor studenilor actuali
i viitori c nivelul i complexitatea studiilor de
mod din cadrul unei Academii de Art nu pot
niciodat comparate cu caracterul aplicat i
pur tehnic al colilor de mod neintegrate ntr-o
Academie de Art.
Datorit accesului la cursurile de istoria ar-
tei, istoria costumului, estetic sau chiar anato-
mie, am putut avea o viziune poate mai comple-
x i mai sintetic asupra fenomenului de mod,
asupra integrrii lui n viaa societii azi, i nu n
ultimul rnd am putut s intuiesc, de multe ori
Pasiune pentru Mod
This year, the Art Academy Bucharest cel-
ebrates its 150 years of existence.
As its former student, I would be surely
proud that I have graduated from this highly
acknowledged school. However, what is special
here is the fact that this celebration nds me
related to it in a more different way than then,
when I used to be its student, as now I belong
to the teaching staff of the Fashion Depart-
ment, which I had graduated from rather long
time ago.
After graduating from the school in Bucha-
rest, I also attended the classes of a well-known
fashion school, ESMOD, from Paris.
Each time, when people prove eager to hear
my opinion regarding the school in France ver-
sus school in Romania topic, I feel very pleased
to express my viewpoint, which is totally differ-
ent from what my interlocutor expects. I would
like to tell all my present and future students that
the level and complexity of the fashion studies
at an Art Academy can never be compared to
the applied and purely technical character of the
fashion schools which have not been integrated
in an Art Academy.
Due to my access to the classes of art his-
tory, the history of costumes, aesthetics or even
anatomy, I could have a more complex and syn-
thetical perspective on the fashion phenomenon
and its integration in our society; furthermore, I
could often and accurately intuit the direction my
Passion for Fashion
148 149
Lavinia Botuanu, Licen, 2012
Lavinia Botuanu, Graduation examination, 2012
fr gre, direcia spre care domeniul meu de
activitate se ndreapt.
Pentru c da, sunt unul dintre creatorii ro-
mni care i-a construit o carier, plecnd n
via din minile i suetul unor oameni precum
regretata Simona Runcan, Paula Barbu sau Unda
Popp, actualmente conductoarea Departamen-
tului Mod, sub ndrumarea creia, acum muli
ani, am susinut o minunat lucrare de diplom,
articulat n jurul costumului popular romnesc.
Astzi, dup o ntreag experien att n
ar, ct i pe piaa internaional, m gsesc
n poziia n care pot transmite ceva din ceea ce
eu am nvat, aici sau n alt parte, unor tineri
crora ncerc s le sistematizez nelegerea fe-
nomenului modei acum, azi, pentru un mine n
domain of activity was taking.
As yes, I am one of the Romanian creators
who has constructed her career stimulated by
the life and soul of some people like the la-
mented Simona Runcan, Paula Barbu or Rux-
andra Popp, at present the Head of the Fashion
Department who, many years ago, had coordi-
nated my wonderful diploma work articulated
around the Romanian folk costume.
Today, after my whole experience, both
in the country and abroad, I can communi-
cate something from what I have learnt, here
or somewhere else, to some young people to
whom I try to systematize the fashion phenom-
enon at the moment, today, for a relevant day
after tomorrow.
150
Lavinia Botuanu, Licen, 2012
Lavinia Botuanu, Graduation examination, 2012
151
152 153
Mirela Barbu, Licen, 2012
Mirela Barbu, Graduation examination, 2012
154
Mirela Barbu, Licen, 2012
Mirela Barbu, Graduation examination, 2012
care sper s i lase urmele trecerii.
Pentru c ei sunt la nceputul unui drum care
poate minunat, ncerc s le insuu la cursuri-
le pe care le susin interesul pentru simplitatea
ideii i pentru articularea coerent n jurul pro-
priului EU artistic. i, nu n ultimul rnd, consi-
der c cel mai important lucru pe care eu l-am
neles i care m face s avansez pe drumul
destul de aglomerat al acestei meserii este n-
cercarea sincer de a individualiza i recunoate
acest EU, care n meseria de fashion designer te
face s exiti, i anume originalitatea. Originali-
tatea care merge mn n mn cu un EU real,
nu de mprumut!
Cutarea a ceea ce i reprezint pe studeni
este adevratul efort pe care un bun dascl tre-
As they are at the beginning of a way, which
can be wonderful, I try to inspire them in the
simplicity of the idea and the coherent articula-
tion around their own artistic EGO.
Last but not least, I consider that the
most important detail I have learnt, which
challenged me to advance along the pretty
crowded way of this profession, is the sin-
cere attempt to individualize and admit this
EGO, which makes you exist in this profes-
sion, more exactly, originality. The original-
ity which goes hand in hand with a real, not
borrowed EGO!
The exploration of what represents the stu-
dents is the real effort which a good professor
must carry out to create real artists. It is what I
155
buie s-l fptuiasc, pentru ca, de pe bncile
colii s porneasc artiti adevrai. Este ceea
ce eu personal am neles c am primit de la
profesorii care m-au ndrumat, pentru care le
mulumesc!
personally understood from my teachers, which
I am grateful to!
Mirela Barbu, Licen, 2012
Mirela Barbu, Graduation examination, 2012
156
Rzvan VASILESCU
asistent universitar doctor
junior lecturer doctor
157
Aa-zisa inuen dadaist este cea care m-a
ndemnat s numesc acest capitol sub forma unei
tolerane totale n ceea ce privete parcurgerea
i acumularea experienelor vestimentare. Punc-
tnd fr menajamente rapoartele mele cu ve-
mntul, intenionez s gsesc coordonatele prin-
cipale ale propriei identiti vizuale din viitorul
imediat. Ulterior vericrii practice a sistemului
dandidaist, urmresc o generalizare a concluziilor
ce se va regsi n coninutul manifestului:
Brbatul dandidaist nu exist; singura lui
prezen zic este costumbra;
Aspiraia devine normalitate n dandidaism;
Acurateea (A) exerciiului dandidaist este
direct proporional cu deschiderea sinelui (Ds);
(Ds) se msoar de la 0 la 360
0
;
Costumul nu este o masc n ecuaia de
fa; prin urmare, orice mascare se traduce prin
schimbarea sensului lui A, ntr-unul negativ, ca
valoare numeric, nu i ca valoare a coninutului;
Factorul de multiplicare (m) este rezulta-
tul mediei geometrice a indicilor ce msoar ni-
velul culturii / cunotinelor generale (Cg), nu-
mrul experienelor marcante (E) i puterea de
absorbie a informaiei (Pi)
A=Ds m,
m=
3
Cg E Pi
Pe parcursul desf ur rii ciclului docto-
ral am aplicat o parte din concluziile cercetrii
asupra saltului tigrului ntr-un proiect lucra-
tiv, construit dup modelul clasic al unui crea-
Activitate personal dendidaist
The so-called Dada inuence is the one
which made me name this chapter in the form
of a total tolerance as respects the crossing
and accumulation of clothing experience. By
straightly emphasizing my connection with the
garment I aim to nd the main coordinates of
my own visual identity in the very close future.
After a practical checkout of the Dada system,
I follow a generalization of conclusions to be
found in the contents of the manifest:
The Dada man does not exist; his single
physical presence is the costshadow
Aspiration becomes normality in the Dan-
didaism
Accuracy (A) of the Dandidaist exercise is
directly proportional with the opening of the
self (Ds)
(Ds) is measured from 0 to 3600
In the present equation the costume does
not represent a mask; consequently, any disguise
is translated through the transformation of As
sense into a negative one, as a numerical value,
not as a value of the contents.
The multiplication factor (m) is the result of
the geometric mean of the parameters measuring
the level of general knowledge/culture (Cg), the
number of outstanding experiences (E) and the
informations absorption power (Pi)
A=Ds x m,
m=
3
Cg x E x Pi
During the doctoral cycle I applied some of
Personal Dandidaist activity
158 159
Rzvan Vasilescu, Experimentnd Colecia Dendidaist, 2013
Rzvan Vasilescu, Experimenting the Dendidaist collection, 2013
160
tor de mbr c minte masculin . Scopul consta
n constituirea unei serii de prototipuri care s
ilustreze lucrarea nal i, totodat , testarea
comerciabilit ii unui astfel de proiect. Prezena
la S pt mna Modei din Iai (n anul 2010 cu
Colecia Mister Genosse), participarea la prin-
cipalele trguri ale tinerilor designeri vestimen-
tari romni (n anii urm tori), dar i organizarea
evenimentelor de promovare a creaiilor per-
sonale (lansarea coleciei Aero Port ianuarie
2011 sau Romanian Handmade Arts & Ideas
Fashion Fair mai, 2011) au constituit, de ase-
menea, prilejuri importante pentru culegerea
datelor necesare posibilei implement ri a Dan-
didaismului.
Metamorfozat n clientul care i poate crea
hainele exact cum le viseaz , am descoperit
r spunsul cerinelor stilistice ale b rbatului de
ast zi ntr-o sum complex de dorine, vise
i frustr ri. Proieciile sale nu se mai cl desc
urm rind necesitatea sau puterea. Unicitatea
este ceea ce i lipsete b rbatului actual; el o
caut i o revendic nentrerupt n sinea sa. Solu-
ia acestei problemei, se poate ascunde, aseme-
nea altor cazuri de criz a personalit ii, ncuiat
n... dulap. Este de la sine neles c organizarea
i alimentarea dressingului sunt chestiuni aate
dincolo de limita intimit ii, n ciuda recunoaterii
unanime a stilitilor personali. Aparinnd gene-
raiei crescute cu cheia de gt
1
, sunt cel puin
reticent la ideea nstr in rii acesteia.
Abilitatea de a jongla cu elementele constitu-
tive ale garderobei a devenit ntre timp o profesie
de sine st t toare. Magia styling-ului nu const
doar ntr-o compunere corect din punct de ve-
dere cromatic, stilistic, al trendului sau al m surii.
A face pe cineva s exprime, purtnd haine noi
(din afara garderobei personale), o armonie
natural consider c este marea provocare a
acestei noi meserii. Evident, ea nu este legat de
cunoaterea regulilor de compoziie sau a modei,
ci mai degrab de cea a subiectului i n special
a psihicului s u. Pentru a-i putea susine origi-
nalitatea i conserva identitatea, un b rbat are
1 Personal nu am fost nevoit s plec de acas , n
copil rie, cu cheia de la cas legat la gt; este posibil n
dorina, perfect justicat , de a-mi imita colegii de coal
s mprumutat de acas o cheie de ifonier lipsit de
valoare sau funcionalitate (de aici blestemul ?!)
the conclusions regarding the research of the ti-
ger leap in a lucrative project based on the clas-
sical model of a male clothing creator. The goal
consisted in the formation of a prototype series
meant to illustrate the nal work and also the mer-
chantible testing of such a project.
The presence at the Fashion Week organized
at Iai (in 2010 with the Mister Genosse Collec-
tion), the participation in the main fairs of the
young Romanian fashion designers (in subsequent
years) as well as the organization of promotional
events to exhibit personal creations (the promo-
tion of the Aero Port Collection January 2011
or the Romanian Handmade Arts & Ideas Fashion
Fair mai 2011) also represented important op-
portunities to collect the data needed for a pos-
sible implementation of the Dandidaism.
Metamorphosed in the client who can cre-
ate his clothes in the way he wishes, I got the
answer to the present mans stylistic demands
in a complex sum of desires, dreams and frus-
trations. His projections no longer focus on
necessity or power. Uniqueness is what the
present misses; he claims and searches for it in
his own self continuously. The solution of this
problem can be hidden like in other types of
personality crises, closed in the wardrobe. It
goes without saying that the organization and
nourishment of dressings represent matters
found beyond the limit of intimacy, despite the
general acknowledgement of personal stylists.
Belonging to the generation deprived of a so-
phisticated life, carrying my house key around
my neck
1
, I am at least reserved to the idea of
its estrangement.
The ability to juggle with the clothing constit-
uents had gradually become an independent pro-
fession. The magic of styling consists not only in a
correct chromatic and stylistic composition of the
trend or measure. I consider that making some-
one express a natural harmony by wearing new
clothes (which do not belong to a personal ward-
robe) is the great challenge of this new job. Obvi-
1 Personally, during my childhood, I did not have
to leave home with my key hanging around my neck; it is
possible that, in my perfectly justied desire to imitate my
school colleagues, to have borrowed a wardrobe key from
home one deprived of any value or functionality (hence
the curse ?!)
161
nevoie s cunoasc i el tot ce mbrac .
A imita nu mai este la mod , paradoxal prin-
cipiilor fenomenului. Astfel, ncrederea n propria
persoan i curajul stilului propriu sunt capabile
s dezvolte un cult cu parfum dandist. Pn la
urm , mp unarea masculin este componenta
propus pentru revigorare prin dandidaism i
mai puin stilul vestimentar sau grija exagerat
pentru aspectul exterior. Aici, indiferena n n-
vemntare poate atrage dup sine rezultate no-
tabile, graie unei aciuni pur mecanice, a unui
impuls subcontient sau pur i simplu ca rezultat
al unor mprejur ri... favorabile.
Dandidaismul recomand :
Contientizarea atent a momentului nve-
mntrii;
Tratarea lui cu sinceritate;
Asumarea rezultatului ca ilustrare a
identit ii.
Importana acestui proces tinde s eclipseze
succesul oric rei alte forme de autoprezentare.
n momentele importante pe durata unei viei,
aranjarea este permis , poate chiar indicat ,
pn i de Biblie. Cea de a doua porunc ne
recomand o nvemntare umil i personal ;
straiele de s rb toare sunt descrise, mai apoi, ca
ind str lucitoare i curate
2
. Iar pentru a ap ra
mp unarea n cazul People versus Dandidaism
pot s acuz volatilitatea probelor: nc nu s-a
dovedit c lacrimile lui Narcis nu erau, de fapt,
lacrimi de... bucurie
3
.
Timpul alocat contempl rii reexiei zice s-a
comprimat i nu mai permite prea multe obser-
vaii detaliate. Am inclus, parc , oglinda n cate-
goria ecranelor plate
4
, a c ror cercetare pare s
devenit viciul cel mai la mod . Ea activeaz , din
2 Porunca a doua a Evangheliei dup Matei S
nu-i faci chip cioplit i nici asem nare a vreunui lucru din
cte sunt n cer, sus, i din cte sunt pe p mnt, jos, i din
cte sunt n apele de sub p mnt! S nu te nchini lor, nici
s le slujeti lor (Exodul 20, 4 -5)
3 Din mitologia greac l cunoatem pe Narcis
ndr gostit de imaginea reeciei sale. Cuprins n Meta-
morfoze, versiunea lui Ovidiu l evoc pe acesta incapabil
s iubeasc altceva dect lucrurile pentru care el nsui
este admirat.
4 Am numit ecran plat ecare dispozitiv din ca-
tegoria PC, Laptop, tablet , smartphone etc. O cercetare
supercial ar putea clasica performanele dispozitivelor
n funcie de... grosime.
ously, this is not related to the knowledge of com-
positional or fashion rules, it is rather connected
to the one concerning the subject and especially
his psychic. In order to sustain his originality and
preserve his identity, a man needs to be aware of
everything he puts on.
Paradoxically, to imitate is no longer in fash-
ion. Thus, the belief in your own person and the
bravery of your own style are capable of develop-
ing a cult provided with a Dandist scent. Finally,
the male boasting is the component proposed for
ones revival through Dandidaism and less the
clothing style or the exaggerated care for the ex-
ternal aspect. Here the indifference in clothing can
attract notable results, due to a purely mechanic
circumstance, a subconscious impulse or simply as
the result of some favorable circumstances.
The Dandidaism recommends:
the careful awareness of the clothing mo-
ment;
its sincere approach;
the assumption of the result as an illustra-
tion of identity.
The importance of this process aims to over-
shadow the success of any form of self-presenta-
tion. In the important moments during ones life
the setting is allowed, perhaps indicated even by
the Bible. The second commandment recommends
us some humble and personal clothing; then the
festive clothes are described as shiny and clean
2
.
And in order to defend the pride in the People
versus Dandidaism I can accuse the volatility of
the samples: it has not been proved yet that Nar-
ciss tears werent actually tears of joy
3
.
The time spent on the contemplation of physi-
cal reexion has been compressed and no longer
allows too many detailed observations. The mir-
ror seems to have been included in the category
2 The second commandment in the Gospel of
Matthew Though shalt not make unto thee any grav-
en image, or any likeness of any thing that is in heaven
above, or that is in the earth beneath, or that is in the
water under the earth! Though shalt not bow down thyself
to them, nor serve them (Exodus 20, 4 -5)
3 From the Greek mythology, we know Narcis who
is in love with the image of his own reection. Contained
in the Metamorphoses, Ovidius version evokes him as a
character who is not capable of loving something else but
the things he himself was admired for.
162
p cate, doar ca un barometru care semnalizeaz
eventualele faux pas-uri. Nu-mi ascund intenia
de a descoperi, n cele din urm , funcia aces-
teia de partener de dialog, i mai apoi de ce
nu? pe cea de critic de imagine. Revin aici cu
remarcarea oportunit ii dezvolt rii unei aplicaii
web ca o adaptare contemporan a manifestului
i ca o viitoare dezvoltare lucrativ a proiectului.
Noul tip de culegere a informa iei se bazeaz
pe similarit i vizuale i cuvinte-cheie. Acestea
sintetizeaz mecanic tr s turile generale ale
unui subiect, silueta, ce r mne imprimat pe
retin , ap rnd sub forma unui portret-robot
compus din straturi diferite. Fie c sunt layere
(straturi de mbr c minte), etaje (de exemplu,
of at screens
4
whose research appears to have
become the most fashionable vice. Unfortunately,
it activates only as a barometer which signals the
eventual faux pases. I do not hide my intention
to nal discover its function as a dialogue partner
and then why not? as an image critic.
Here I return with the observation regarding
the opportunity to develop a web application as
a contemporary adaptation of the manifest and a
future dynamic development of the project. The
new type of information collection is based on
4 A at screen is each device from the PC, Laptop,
tablet, smartphone category. A supercial research would
classify the performances of these devices according to
their ... thickness.
Rzvan Vasilescu, Experimentnd Colecia Dendidaist, 2013
Rzvan Vasilescu, Experimenting the Dendidaist collection, 2013
163
parter nc l minte, etaj 1 pantaloni, etaj 2
etc.) sau amintiri (memorii rememor ri), ele
se combin ntr-un puzzle spectaculos prin di-
versitate. Pentru a putea recunoscui, mai tr-
ziu, asemenea Regelui Soare sau asemenea lui
Beau Brummel (ca important proiecie a trecu-
tului), este nevoie s ne aranj m corespunz tor
acestui tip de percepie. Forma distinct a ac-
cesoriilor (n general, a p l riilor), lungimile i
grosimile (aici, lejeritatea pe corp, n varianta
bi-dimensional ) sunt factorii primi ce trebuie
luai n calcul pentru descriera volumului infor-
maional. Pentru a vizualiza dezvoltarea acestei
noi ecuaii a manifestului (Facc L G = Vi),
recomand comparaia cu algoritmul ce dicteaz
aciunea unei imprimante tridimensionale.
Notorietatea siluetelor istorice are rolul de a
tempera subiectivismul radical al abord rii, cer-
ticnd, astfel, fezabilitatea noilor propuneri. Ele
sunt actualizate constant, dar, mai important, in-
diferent de dorina purt torului. Prin simpla dete-
riorare a mbr c minii sau prin purtarea ei (ab-
solut ntmpl toare) la un moment (notabil) dat,
identitatea i haina se modic reciproc. Odat
cu g sirea de noi sensuri a disputei proverbiale
[NU] Haina face pe om remarc i imposibilitatea
de a m alia vreunei cauze. n consecin , am ales
s cercetez cmpul de lupt (neutru, de leg tur
FACE), haina i omul au tot fost studiai.
Declararea identit ii a devenit una dintre
cele mai importante teme ale noilor timpuri. Cer-
cetarea de fa se aliaz acestei cauze, n ciuda
mediului local retardat, dezvoltat sub cenzur ,
ajuns la maturitate nainte de vreme, doar ca
urmare a ambi iilor personale i nu rezultnd ca-
priciilor societ ii (romne ti). Prin urmare, com-
ponenta na ional a identit ii are compozi ia
necesar dizolv rii n apele viu curg toare ale noii
civiliza ii globalizate mult mai atractive , datorit
diversit ii ofertei, aten iei acordate conserv rii,
poate chiar promov rii eciente etc. Cu toate
acestea, pionieratul sau verticalitatea unui conai-
onal n oricare dintre domeniile aduse n discuie
au atras dup sine m car o umbr de prezen .
Ele vor punctate n descrierea ce urmeaz a ce-
lor opt faze de construcie a Dandidaismului.
Pentru a sus ine i verica, totodat , lucrurile
ne-ilustrate pn acum, am gndit realizarea se-
riei de costume-prototip. Ele sintetizeaz liniile de
visual similarities and key words. It mechanically
synthesizes the general characteristics of a sub-
ject, the silhouette, which remains imprinted on
the retina, appearing in the form of a robot portrait
composed of different strata. No matter if they are
layers (clothing levels), oors (for instance, the
ground oor footwear, the rst oor trousers,
the second oor etc.) or memories (memories
recalls), they combine in a spectacular puzzle by
means of diversity. In order to be acknowledged
later, like the Sun King or Beau Brummel (as an im-
portant projection of the past) we need to organ-
ize this type of perception in an appropriate way.
The distinct form of accessories (of hats, generally
speaking), the lengths and breadths (here, the
loose dressing, in the bidimensional variant) are
the rst factors which must be taken into account
to describe the informational volume. In order to
visualize the development of this new equation of
the manifest (Facc x L x G = Vi), I recommend the
comparison to the algorithm dictating the action
of a tridimensional printer.
The notoriety of historical silhouettes is meant
to temper the radical subjectivism of the approach
thus certifying the feasibility of the new sugges-
tions. They are updated constantly yet, which is
more important, regardless of the carriers desire.
Through the simple deterioration of the outt or
its absolutely incidental wearing at a certain mo-
ment, ones identity and clothing modify mutually.
Once the new meanings of the proverbial dispute
are found it is not the clothing which makes the
man I also notice the impossibility to join any
cause. Consequently, I have chosen to explore the
eld (neutre, MAKES); the outt and man have
already been studied.
The declaration of identity has become one
of the most important topics of new times. The
present research joins this cause despite the lo-
cal retarded medium, developed under censor-
ship, and rather prematurely, only as an outcome
of personal ambitions, not resulting from the ca-
prices of the (Romanian) society. Accordingly, the
national component of identity has the composi-
tion needed to dissolve in the living waters of
the new globalized civilization which is more
attractive due to the tenders diversity, to the at-
tention paid to conservation, perhaps even to the
efcient promotion etc. However, the pioneer-
164
croial i elementele de detaliu ale majorit ii pie-
selor din colecii. Costumbrele reprezint esena
ec rui sezon al anilor de cercetare.
Premerg tor expunerii i discut rii n particu-
lar a prototipurilor se cuvine descrierea mecanis-
mului care a f cut posibil conexiunile, paralelis-
mele i paradoxurile ncifrate n ceea ce urmeaz
a se dezvolta ulterior sub denumirea de con-
cept. Ce-i drept, aici, excesiv de subiectiv, f r o
legtur direct cu temele clasice, el este menit
s se contureze i s se dezvolte pn la matu-
ritate cu un an nainte de a- i intra n drepturi
5
.
Conceptul denit, de obicei, ca urmare a ce-
rerii de etichetare i de etichete, ale consuma-
torului (obi nuit cu produsele categorisite i cu
instruc iuni de folosire, ngr dind astfel libertatea
de expresie dup bunul plac), se poate transfor-
ma n ideea creativ ce manipuleaz proiectul.
Epicitatea este capabil s dea concep-
tului, n cazul de fa , o nou accep iune, ce-l
capaciteaz , pe lng func ia de regizor cu cele
de scenarist i actor principal. Spectacolul de tra-
ducere a conceptelor imateriale n costum poate
p rea incomplet n lipsa unei legende de inter-
pretare a diferitelor umbre ale trecutului; ataez,
n consecin , o serie de poveti ilustrate, sper
edicatoare, a chestiunilor dandidaiste.
Mister Genosse este primul salt n timp,
f cut pentru a marca aniversarea a 20 de ani de la
c derea Zidului din Berlin. n seria de evenimente
desf urate la Sala Dalles din Bucureti, n oc-
tombrie 2009, am avut pl cerea de a-mi prezenta
omagiul, n ncheierea spectacolului-maraton de
performing de costum susinut de studenii de la
UNAB i UNATC. Am g sit de cuviin s punctez
cele dou decenii nc din titlu, prin al turarea
pronumelor de politee tovar (genosse, n
german ) i domn (mister, n englez ) ce nso-
esc prezentarea (verbal ) a b rbatului est-euro-
pean, nainte i dup pr buirea Cortinei de Fier.
Lentoarea procesului democratic, predicionat
mult prea optimist, mi-a permis acoperirea de-
cadelor ntr-un singur pas stilistic. Salopeta, sim-
bolul vestimentar al muncitorului comunist, este
5 Se va putea observa, n anunata descriere, c
prin colecie numesc aici nu doar seriile de costume trans-
puse n material, ci piesele singulare ajunse n stadiul de
prototip sau produsele unicat cu potenial bogat de dez-
voltare.
dom or the verticality of a co-national in any
analyzed domain presumed at least a shadow
of presence. They are going to be emphasized in
the description following the eight construction
stages of Dandidaism.
In order to support and also verify the things,
which had not been illustrated so far, I have taken
the prototype costume series into account. They
synthesize the line cuts and details of most of the
collection items and represent the essence of each
season developed during the research years.
Before we expose and discuss the prototypes
in particular we ought to describe the mechanism,
which made the connections, parallelisms and
paradoxes possible; they encode in what is go-
ing to subsequently develop as a concept. Thats
right, here, excessively subjective, without any
direct connection to classical topics, it is meant
to outline and develop up to its maturity, a year
before it becomes valid
5
.
The concept, usually dened as a result of
the consumers labeling demand (whos used to
the category-type products and usage instruc-
tions, thus limiting ones liberty of expression),
can transform in the creative idea manipulating
the project.
In this case, the epic is capable of providing
the concept with a new signication, which em-
powers it with the functions of a scenarist or a
main actor, besides the one performed by a stage
director. The show regarding the translation of the
immaterial concepts into a costume can appear
incomplete in the absence of a legend to interpret
different shadows of the past; consequently, I at-
tach a series of illustrated stories which will hope-
fully clarify the Dandidaist issues.
Mr. Genosse represents the rst leap in time,
made to mark 20 years since the collapse of the
Berlin Wall. In the series of events organized at
Sala Dalles, Bucharest, in October 2009, I was
pleased to present my homage, at the end of a
marathon performance, exhibiting the costumes
of the students from the UNAB and UNATC.
I found it appropriate to emphasize the two
5 In the already stated description one will have the
possibility to observe that by means of collections I refer not
only to series of costumes transposed in the material but also
the singular items reaching the prototype level or the unique
products provided with a complex potential of improvement.
165
mbr cat de Tovar ul Domnu n forma sa, doar
adaptat vremurilor nu proiectat pentru ele.
Diferitele t ieturi i trat ri se constitue ntr-o eta-
lare a opiunilor, inspirate din funcia original
(costum de lucru) i din adaptarea la noua condi-
ie de om liber, cu aptitudini i idealuri.
Aa cum am v zut eu, costumul b rb tesc
nu s-a schimbat prea mult, n esen ; dei vari-
ante sunt nenum rate, iar aceasta am ncercat
s o sugerez i prin deschiderea complet fa
de paleta cromatic . Accesoriile, de provenien
industrial , las la discreia purt torului alegerea
din spectrul multifuncionalit ii. Astfel, inven-
tivitatea i curajul pot iei n eviden printr-o
aranjare neconvenional. Este acelai atribut ce
decades right in the title by attaching a polite-
ness pronoun fellow (genosse, in German) to Mr
(mister, in English) joining the (verbal) presenta-
tion of the East European man, before and after
the decay of the Iron Curtain. The slowliness of
the democratic process, foreseen in a rather too
optimistic way, permitted me to cover the gaps
in a single stylistic step. The union suit, the sym-
bol of the communist worker, is put on by fellow
Mr. in its form, only adapted to the times not
designed for them. The various cuttings and ap-
proaches develop in a display of options, inspired
from the original function (working suit) and the
adjustment to the new condition of free people,
endowed with aptitudes and ideals.
Rzvan Vasilescu, Experimentnd Colecia Dendidaist, 2013
Rzvan Vasilescu, Experimenting the Dendidaist collection, 2013
166
transform banalele geni de pota sau geni de
mti de gaze, n obiecte cool.
Aero Port este o transpunere a aspiraiei de
a zbura, sau mai curnd a accepiunilor acesteia
n mileniul al treilea. n decurs de numai un secol,
omul a reuit s -i mplineasc multe dintre cele
mai ndr znee visuri, l snd impresia c nimic nu
va r mne neinventat sau nedescoperit. Cu toa-
te acestea, majoritatea noastr se mulumete
cu profunda admiraie pentru zbur torii de orice
fel. Imaginnd aeroportul ca pe un imens catwalk
al identit ilor, am creat o serie de costume ce
adapteaz diferite forme ale uniformei de aviator,
vremurilor noastre. Pe de alt parte, am ncercat
pe un drum deschis de Simon Thorogood s
mprumut elemente din industria aeronautic n
sistemul de construcie al tiparelor pentru haine;
n viteza obinuit a contemporaneit ii, nu stric
niciodat un plus aerodinamic. Creatorul de aero-
haine londonez a motenit pasiunea de la tat l s u
(inginer-constructor de avioane), ilustrnd deasa
folosire a componentei sentimentale ca baz a pi-
onieratelor artistice. Personal le port o deosebit
consideraie temerarilor romni Henri Coand ,
Aurel Vlaicu sau Traian Vuia i le-am omagiat me-
moria prin realizarea retro-proieciei siluetei de
aviator. Ornamentele, rezonante de asemenea cu
graca aeronautic , al turi de accesoriile reinven-
tate au rolul de a mprumuta purt torului o par-
te din prestana specic piloilor, altfel o cauz
pierdut temporar de vestimentaia masculin . Am
g sit, n ideea de aeroport, spaiul contemporan
ce poate caracteriza societatea contemporan : n
vitez , globalizat i cu multe pori.
Under Port, aa cum i spune i numele,
este layerul de... sub port. Am creat o serie de
prototipuri din gama lenjeriei de corp masculi-
ne, ce se pot observa n completarea nveliului
principal. A doua piele are menirea de a proteja
intimitatea i de a vorbi despre ea. Bluzele de
corp transparente, izmenele cu braguette
6
, fusta
ataat cing torii i vesta-earf readuc pe tapet
tema b rbatului cu picioarele la vedere, ca factor
decisiv n descoperirea identit ii secrete. Sexua-
litatea nu mai este un subiect tabu al modei mas-
culine, nici m car unul de actualitate; a devenit
6 Braguette este partea vemntului ce acoper
p rile genitale masculine.
As I have seen, the male suit has not changed
too much although there are limitless variants, and
I tried to suggest it by the complete preference for
the chromatic scale. Originally industrial, the acces-
sories provide the carrier with the liberty to choose
from the spectre of multifunctionality. Thus, inven-
tiveness and bravery can be emphasized through a
non-conventional arrangement. It is the same at-
tribute which transforms the trivial postman bags
or gas mask bags into cool objects.
Aero Port is a transposition of the aspiration to
y or rather of its senses in the third millennium.
In only one century, man succeeded in making
many of his most courageous dreams come true,
making us believe that nothing is going to remain
un-invented or undiscovered. Despite all these,
our great majority is satised with the profound
admiration for any kind of iers.
By imagining the airport as an immense cat-
walk of identities, I created a series of costumes
adjusting different forms of the pilot uniform to
our times. On the other hand, I tried on a way
opened by Simon Thorogood to borrow ele-
ments from the aeronautic industry in the system
of construction applied in the clothing samples; in
the common speed of contemporaneity, it never
hurts to feel an aerodynamic plus.
The creator of aero-clothes from London in-
herited the passion from his father (an engineer
in the construction of planes), and illustrated the
complex use of the sentimental component as the
basis of artistic pioneerdom. I am personally grate-
ful to a number of Romanian venturesome charac-
ters such as Henri Coand, Aurel Vlaicu or Traian
Vuia and I respected their memory by achieving
the retro-projection of the pilot silhouette.
The ornaments, also related to the aeronauti-
cal graphics, besides the re-invented accessories,
are meant to provide their carrier with a part of
the stateliness typical to pilots, which is otherwise
a cause temporarily lost by the male clothing. In
the context of airports, I have found the contem-
porary space, which can characterised by speed,
globalization and many other gates...
Under Port, as its name suggests, is the
layer... under the port. I have created a series
of prototypes from the collection of male un-
derwear, which can be observed in the com-
pletion of the main coating. The second skin
167
un instrument la care se apeleaz frecvent, doar
pentru rezonana sa comercial . Transparenele,
neglejeritatea
7
, dubla protecie sau micorarea
num rului de cus turi au coordonat realizarea
seriei ce vizeaz sporirea potenialului erotic cu
ajutorul seduciei sartoriale.
L sarea lenjeriei intime prad privirilor a fost
popularizat de rapperii afro-americani, iar tine-
rii discipoli au cobort nivelul interpret rii, poate
mai mult dect era cazul. n c utarea descrierii
siluetei care s descrie senzualitatea masculin ,
am renunat total la stratul consacrat mbr c rii
picioarelor, nchipuind un altul, care s le eviden-
ieze structura.
Promovarea morfologiilor umane n dezacord
cu idealurile clasice de frumusee a existat de la
nceput n apanajul creatorilor de mod avangar-
diti. Astfel, burtica, oldurile late sau muchii
pectorali nedezvoltai au devenit vedete f r voia
lor, descriind tipologia masculin activ oricum
altfel dect zic.
C.O.-boy a pornit de la documentarea pen-
tru proiectul, menionat anterior, ce avea s asi-
gure garderoba shooting-ului pentru realizarea
materialelor promoionale ale expoziiei lui Ion
Brl deanu. Cowboy-ul, cu a c rui siluet se
identic artistul, a inspirat numeroase acte de
curaj domestic i reprezint un etalon de mascu-
linitate universal . Filmele recente de tip western
ale regizorului american Quentin Tarantino (Kill
Bill, Django) au f cut din personaj o personalita-
te modern .
T, t-shirt este versiunea personal a trico-
ului n form de T. Croit dintr-o singur bucat ,
prototipul se preteaz es turilor tubulare, cu
un procent ce tinde spre 0% pierderi. De ase-
menea, i-am l sat imprimeului elementul ce
personalizeaz frecvent t-shirt-ul un spaiu
mult mai amplu de desf urare.
Tradiional Hypster este ideea bunului prie-
ten, ilustratorul bucuretean Matei Branea, pentru
inuta sa de nunt . Cele dou coordonate, prin
care clientul se autodenete, au descris traseul
personalit ii sale, ce urma a transformat n cos-
tum. Elementelor ornamentale, mprumutate din
portul popular (s sesc i oltenesc), am ncercat
7 Neglejeritate am numit aici combinaia dintre
neglijen i lejeritate.
is meant to protect intimacy and talk about it.
The transparent vests, the braguette drawers
6
,
the skirt attached to the belt and the scarf-vest
emphasise the man whose leg is not covered,
an essential element in the discovery of secret
identities. Sexuality is no longer a secret sub-
ject of male fashion. It has become an instru-
ment which is frequently approached only for
its commercial resonance. Transparency, the
ignorance of lightness
7
, the double protection
or the smaller number of sewings, coordinated
the achievement of the series focusing on the
increase of the erotic potential by means of the
sartorial seduction.
The free display of ones underwear was
popularized by the Afro-American rappers and the
young disciples lowered the lovel of interpretation
more than they should have to. While searching
for the description of the silhouette to describe
male sensuality, I completely renounced to the
stratum meant to cover the legs by imagining an-
other one to emphasize their structure.
The promotion of human morphologies, which
do not agree with the classical ideals of beauty,
had existed from the very beginning in the case
of the avant-garde fashion creators. Thus, ones
tummy, wide hips or undeveloped pectorals had
unwillingly become some stars by describing the
active male typology anyway more different
than physically.
C.O.-boy started from the documentation for
the previously mentioned project which was going
to ensure the shootings outt for the achievement
of the promotional materials used in the exhibition
of Ion Brldeanu. The cowboy, whose silhouette
is used by the artist to identify with, had inspired
numerous acts of domestic courage and repre-
sents an ideal of universal masculinity. The recent
western lms of the American lm producer Quen-
tin Tarantino (Kill Bill, Django) made the character
become a modern personality.
T, t-shirt is the personal version of the T-shirt
in the form of a T. Tailored in a single piece, the
prototype is proper to the tubular weavings, with a
6 Braguette is the part of the clothing which cov-
ers the male genitals
7 Neglectlightness the combination between ca-
relessness and lightness.
168 169
Rzvan Vasilescu, Experimentnd Colecia Dendidaist, 2013
Rzvan Vasilescu, Experimenting the Dendidaist collection, 2013
170
s le imprim gradul de funcionabilitate i suste-
nabilitate corespunz tor noilor trenduri urmate
de tn ra generaie. Am inclus aceast comand
special lucr rii, datorit uenei procesului de
concepere a ansamblului vestimentar. Cunoate-
rea reperelor vizuale, de c tre client, a facilitat ac-
ceptarea propunerii i purtarea ei ca atare.
Odat cu derularea episodului al patrulea din
proiectul Costumbre, am hot rt s m supun,
ca subiect, cerin elor cursului, n speran a de a
g si proiec ia personalit ii mele n sezonul viitor.
La urma urmelor, prezentul celor ce sunt implica i,
ntr-un fel sau altul, n circul modei se deruleaz
n anul ce urmeaz . Pn acum, alegeam aceste
siluete n urma unei analize a imaginii i a eventu-
percentage aiming to 0% loss. I have also left the
print the element, which frequently personalizes
the T-shirt with a much larger developing space.
Traditional Hypster is the idea of my good
friend, an illustrator from Bucharest, Matei Branea,
for his wedding outt. The two coordinates,
through which the client denes himself, have
described the route of his personality, which was
meant to be transformed into a costume. I tried
to provide the ornamental elements, borrowed
from the folk outt (Saxon and from Oltenia), with
the functionability and sustainability related to the
new trends and respected by the new generation.
I included this special order due to the conceiv-
ing process of the clothing set. The knowledge of
Rzvan Vasilescu, Experimentnd Colecia Dendidaist, 2013
Rzvan Vasilescu, Experimenting the Dendidaist collection, 2013
171
alelor direc ii pe care le pot conferi anumite detalii
specice; acestea urmnd a explorate prin pris-
ma vizual personal ntr-o viziune contemporan .
Asemenea testului zic cu fasciculul luminos, am
ncercat s schimb locul factorilor n enun , c ci o
problem de imagine trebuie neap rat analizat
optic.
Uneltele i ordinea folosirii lor r mn neschim-
bate, rezultatul urmnd s con in o sum de idei
compuse n straturi succesive, f r aptitudini de
solu ie denitiv . Este o agend tridimensional
ce poate analizat i testat (n faza ini ial ),
apoi poate suferi modic ri i ajust ri, p strnd
transparen a procesului creativ. Abaterile de la tra-
seul prestabilit sunt aproape imposibil de evitat.
H ruii permanent de s ge i mbr cate n haine
de breaking news, am nv at s ne suprim m
visurile ndep rtate. Creatorii de costume ale viito-
rului se dovedesc neinspira i pe msur ce datele
stelare devin actuale, iar ve mintele seam n mai
curnd cu cele purtate de creatori n momentul
primelor produc ii SF. R mne indubitabil faptul c
viitorul se cl de te cu pa i consecutivi, pe c r rile
deja b t torite, scurt turile prin noi dimensiuni
reprezentnd singura op iune a designerilor de
a ob ine rezultate inedite. Noul absolut este pe
cale de dispari ie, iar ineditul tinde s devin
gradul de compara ie imediat inferior acestuia, cu
accent pe sensul de neobi nuit. Metoda rico eelor
lexicale este lesne de intuit n ecua ia-concept:
Roi Soleil + Cirque du Soleil = Soleil (Roi +
Cirque) = Roi de Caro
8
Men ionez c am aplicat att ordinea operai-
ilor, ct i sensul lor ntr-o manier personal , pe
alocuri dadaist , i nicidecum conform rigorilor
algebrei.
Atributele pe care simt nevoia s le dezvolt
i, eventual, nsu esc sunt subnelese forme-
lor ce contureaz ipoteticele siluete. Contopi-
rea celor dou idei, pe alocuri paradoxal opuse
8 Ecuaia model este o reducere la termenii de
baz ai algebrei prin comparaia cu: simbolul eleganei
fastuoase a costumului masculin n persoana lui Louis
al XIV-lea, cunoscut ca Regele Soare a unei variante
de spectacol contemporan, ales pentru rezonana denu-
mirii sale (francofon i coninnd termenul soleil), rezul-
tnd o combinaie ntre cele dou concepte (roialitate i
circ) personicat n imaginea Regelui de Caro, un fel de
romb!?
visual references by the client facilitated the ac-
ceptance of the suggestion.
While working on the fourth episode from
the Costshadows project, I decided to obey the
demands of the course hoping to nd the pro-
jection of my personality in the next season.
Finally, the present of those involved, in a way
or another, in the circus of fashion develops
during the following year. Until now I used to
select these silhouettes after an analysis of the
image and the possible trends certain specic
details can confer. These are going to be ex-
plored from a personal visual perspective in a
contemporary vision. Just like in the case of the
physical test with the beam, I tried to change
the place of the factors in the statement as a
problem connected to the image must be nec-
essarily analyzed in an optical way.
The tools and the order of their use remain
unchanged, and the result has to comprise a sum
of ideas composed in successive strata, without
any aptitudes of nal solutions. It is a tri-dimen-
sional agenda which can be analysed and tested
(in the initial stage), then it can undergo trans-
formations and adjustments while preserving the
transparency of the creative process. The devia-
tions from the previous route are almost impos-
sible to avoid. Permanently harassed by arrows
dressed in breaking news outts, we have learnt
to suppress our remote dreams. The creators of
future costumes prove uninspired while the stel-
lar data become actual, and the outt gets similar
to the one worn by the creators during the rst
Science-Fiction production. It is unquestionable
that the future develops in consecutive steps, in
already experienced contexts, the shortcuts by
means of new dimensions representing the only
option of the designers to obtain new results. The
absolute new is gradually vanishing, and nov-
elty aims to become its inferior degree of com-
parison emphasizing the unusual element. The
method of lexical ricochets can be easily intuited
in the concept equation:
Roi Soleil + Cirque du Soleil = Soleil (Roi +
Cirque) = Roi de Caro
8
8 The sample equation represents a reduction to
the main algebrical terms through the comparison with:
the symbol of sumptuous elegance expressing the male
costume in the person of Louis XIV, known as the Sun
172
i, n acela i timp, cu majore asem n ri, per-
mite alegerea sacadat a zonelor ce urmeaz
a explorate i mai apoi etalate sau uitate.
Programul de modelare a spiritului, asemenea
formelor clasice, presupune ini ial o asumare a
purt rii tr s turilor dominante e i cu caracter
documentar. Nivelul optim al balansului ntre o
apari ie inedit i efectul scontat este dat doar
n momentul instal rii rescului interior (am nu-
mit aici starea neutr a individului).
nainte de a face pasul spre etapa ce urmeaz
s articuleze vizual conceptul, am sim it nevoia
de o compara ie cu un alt domeniu, n care ine-
ditul este noul nou. Aparte de curente muzicale
de tip hybrid i voci dup toate asem n rile, mu-
zica i tr iete contemporaneitatea cu ajutorul
mash-up-urilor
9
, gradul de virtuozitate cu care
sunt mpletite, cel pu in dou hituri muzicale din
trecut, a dep it nevoia de ritmuri noi, (post)
moderne. Partea video printre cele mai nou
venite n nobila familie a artelor (deja cu noi
ramica ii ex: mapping, 3D) este nelipsit din
via a cotidian , scurtmetrajele videoclipuri
muzicale devin spa ii perfecte pentru atmosfera
necesar des vr irii cadrului vizat. Un alt ca-
rambol al conceptului, de data aceasta de natur
sentimental , m-a plasat n lumea lui Anton Cor-
bijn, regizor-scenograf pentru ilustraia video a
evergreen-ului celor de la Depeche Mode, Enjoy
the silence.
Continund paralela matematic , am inclus
geometria simpl n construc ia tiparelor de baz
ale ec rui produs n parte; rombul (60/120)
suveran chiar i n titlu, deja sugerat de al turarea
factorilor n ecua ia conceptual s-a dovedit a
o alegere satisf c toare, att din punct de ve-
dere al compozi iei n ansamblu a liniilor de for ,
ct i a consumului de material.
Pentru a p stra impersonalitatea necesar
unui asemenea proiect de cercetare, nu voi insis-
ta cu enumerarea celor ce au condus la alegerea
unui anumit tip de ve mnt sau unui anumit tip
de materie prim . nt resc ideea de a selecta pie-
sele ca layere succesive, ce vor dialoga i se vor
completa, f r riscul de a afecta func ionalitatea
i rostul ec ruia. Astfel, imaginea complet de-
9 Este compozi ia rezultat din suprapunerea a
cel pu in dou cntece, de obicei folosind partea vocal a
uneia, suprapus ilustra iei muzicale a celeilalte.
I mention that I have applied both the order
of operations and their meaning in a personal
way, which is partially Dadaist, not according to
algebrical rigors.
The attributes, which I need to develop and
eventually acquire, are implied in the forms de-
ning the hypothetic silhouettes. The juxtaposi-
tion of the two partially opposing ideas, yet also
emphasizing major similarities, permits the abrupt
choice of the zones which are going to be explored
then displayed or forgotten.
The program used to model the spirit similarly
to classical forms initially presumes an assumption
to accept the approach of dominant characteristics,
no matter if they are documentary or not. The op-
timus level of the balance between a new appear-
ance and the expected effect is given only when
setting the interior matter of course (here I have
named the neutral condition of the individual).
Before advancing towards the next stage,
which aims to articulate the concept visually, I felt
the need to compare it with another domain in
which novelty is the new new. Apart from the
hybrid-like musical trends and voices according
to all similarities, music experiences its contem-
poraneity by means of mash-ups
9
, the virtuosity
degree used to combine at least two musical hits
from the past, surpassing the need to get new and
postmodern rhythms. The video part among
the recent ones in the noble family of arts (al-
ready with new ramications, for instance, map-
ping, 3D) is present in our everyday life, the short
lms musical videoclips become perfect spaces
in the atmosphere needed to make the context
much better. Another pattern of the concept, this
time a sentimental one, placed me into the world
of Anton Corbijn, a director designer of the video
illustration of Enjoy the silence, one of the ever-
green songs of Depeche Mode.
Continuing the mathematic parallel, I have
God a variant of a contemporary performance selected
for the resonance of its name (Francophone and compris-
ing the soleil term); what we get is a combination between
the two concepts (royalty and circus) personied in the
image of Caro King, a sort of rhombus!?
9 It is the composition resulted from the juxtapo-
sition of at least two songs, by usually using the vocal part
of one overlapping the so-called musical illustration of the
other.
173
Rzvan Vasilescu, Experimentnd Colecia Dendidaist, 2013
Rzvan Vasilescu, Experimenting the Dendidaist collection, 2013
174
vine principalul obiect de studiu, n perspectiva
cre rii unei serii ce poate satisface, sartorial, e-
care moment al unui sezon ntreg.
Ca Ro Surf completeaz seria identit ilor
cu o concluzie vestimentar a vizitei n Florida.
Prototipul continu c l toria croielilor n form de
romb, odat cu descoperirea direct a sportului
nautic ce anim coasta Atlanticului.
n clipul de prezentare a concluziilor dandida-
iste, am mbr cat f r a ine cont de identit ile
originale o parte dintre elementele vestimenta-
re amintite mai sus. Propunerile, absolutamente
aleatorii, urmau a spori num rul combinaiilor
posibile, evalund fezabilitatea implement rii
unei ordini dandidaiste n garderob .
included the simple geometry in the construction
of each separate products patterns; the rhombus
(60/120) sovereign even in the title, already
suggested by the association of factors in the con-
ceptual equation proved to be a satisfying choice
not only from the perspective of a general compo-
sition of the lines of force, but also from the one
regarding the materials consumption.
In order to preserve the impersonality needed
in such a research project, I shall not insist with the
enumeration of those leading towards the selection
of a certain type of clothing or a certain type of raw
material. I emphasize the importance of the idea
suggesting the selection of items as successive lay-
ers which are going to entertain the dialogue and
Rzvan Vasilescu, Experimentnd Colecia Dendidaist, 2013
Rzvan Vasilescu, Experimenting the Dendidaist collection, 2013
175
complete each other, without affecting the func-
tionality and reason of each. Thus, the complete
image becomes the main object of study, from the
perspective of some series which can satisfy each
moment of a whole season in a sartorial way.
Ca Ro Surf completes the series of identities
with a conclusion regarding clothings during a visit
to Florida. The prototype continues the journey of
clothing in the shape of rhombuses simultaneous-
ly with the direct discovery of the nautical sport
animating the Atlantic Coast.
In the clip presenting the Dadaist conclusions I
have put on without respecting the original identi-
ties some of the clothing items mentioned above.
The absolutely incidental suggestions were meant
to increase the number of possible combinations by
evaluating the feasibility of the implementation of a
Dandidaist order in ones wardrobe.
176
Sergiu CHIHAIA
asistent universitar doctor
junior lecturer doctor
177
Postmodernismul s-a manifestat n mod
cu precdere de-a lungul ultimelor dou dece-
nii, prin designerii Comme des Garons, Alexan-
der McQueen i Vivienne Westwood. Acetia au
punctat principiile sale majore. Cum putem recu-
noate Postmodernismul n moda actual? Acest
curent artistic a fost folosit la scar larg n ultimii
douzeci de ani, dar este aproape imposibil de
denit termenul cu acuratee. Ad literam, Post-
modernism nseamn dup curentul Moder-
nism, dar acest termen ascunde mult mai mult.
Un lucru este cert, Postmodernismul acoper o
gam variat de domenii artistice. Teoreticienii
importani folosesc acest termen pentru a se re-
feri la un punct de deviaie aprut n literatur,
teatru, arhitectur, cinematograe i design.
Iniial, Postmodernismul a fost o reacie la
Modernism. Malcolm Bernard explica: Moder-
nismul creeaz obiectul pentru producie, Post-
modernismul concepe pentru consum. Acest
lucru nseamn c toate formele de art sunt
realizate cu unicul scop de a devorate, sco-
pul Postmodernismului ind de a ajunge la un
public ct mai larg. Postmodernismul poate ,
de asemenea, folosit pentru a descrie societatea
n care trim astzi: Postmodernismul integrea-
z la scar planetar o lume post-industrial de
mass-media, sisteme de comunicare i de infor-
mare. Are ca fundament o societate orientat
spre piaa de consum, n defavoarea muncii i
produciei (...), este o lume a culturii n care tra-
Postmodernismul i moda
Postmodernism had manifested especially
during the last two decades due to several de-
signers such as Comme des Garons, Alexander
McQueen and Vivienne Westwood. They empha-
sized its major principles. How can we recognize
Postmodernism in the context of present fash-
ion? This artistic trend had been widely used
during the latest twenty years yet it is almost
impossible to dene this trend accurately. Liter-
ally, Postmodernism means after Modernism,
however this term hides much more. One detail
is certain, Postmodernism covers a wide range
of artistic domains. Important theoreticians use
this term to refer to a deviation point emerged
in literature, theatre, architecture, cinematogra-
phy and design.
Initially, Postmodernism represented a reac-
tion to Modernism. Malcolm Bernard explained:
Modernism creates the object for production,
Postmodernism conceives for consumption. This
means that all the art forms are realized only to
be devoured, and the goal of Postmodernism is
to reach a very large public. Postmodernism can
be also used to describe the society in which we
live today: Postmodernism integrates a postin-
dustrial world of mass-media, or systems of com-
munication and information on a world scale. It
is based on a society focused on consumption,
against work and production... it is a world of
culture in which tradition, shared values ... faith
and world standards were contested, submined
Postmodernism and fashion
178
Anul II Licen, Costume pentru Teatrul Masca, 2014
Second year BA, Costumes for Masca Theatre, 2014
179
180
Anul II Licen, Costume pentru Teatrul Masca, 2014
Second year BA, Costumes for Masca Theatre, 2014
181
diia, valorile comune (...) credina i standar-
dele universale au fost contestate, subminate i
respinse pentru eterogenitate, deosebire i dife-
ren. (Bernard, 2007)
Postmodernismul poate apreciat ca un stil
artistic sau ca o abordare a furirii lucrurilor. Prin
modul n care hainele sunt realizate, acestea ofe-
r contur i o anumit poziie social purtatoru-
lui. Andrew Hill evideniaz hainele nu mai sunt
asociate exclusiv cu o anumit ierarhie social,
cum era odinioar. Spre exemplu, n secolul al
XIX-lea expunerea unei pri dezgolite a corpului
feminin era asociat cu prostituia. n schimb, n
prezent, sensul peiorativ al goliciunii trupului
femeiesc i-a pierdut sensul peiorativ i ncadra-
rea moral x din timpurile apuse.
Postmodernismul nu face diferen ntre ar-
tele tradiionale i cele neconvenionale. Unele
forme estetice de art au fost catalogate ca fe-
minine (un exemplu gritor ind moda), n loc
s e considerate arte inferioare fa de artele
cu veleiti masculine (arhitectura). n Postmo-
dernism nu exist un set de reguli stricte care s
deneasc fr echivoc diferitele forme de art.
Pe tot parcursul secolului al XIX-lea, orice lu-
crare de art elaborat sau decorativ era con-
siderat feminin i inferioar, aceast distincie
ind pstrat de-a lungul secolului al XX-lea mo-
dernist. (Ash and Wilson, 1992)
Postmodernismul pune sub semnul ntre-
brii valorile culturale tradiionale ale societ-
ii contemporane, cu precdere cele ale culturii
occidentale. Stilul de via cotidian s-a schimbat
dramatic fa de acum 50 sau chiar 30 de ani.
Valorile tradiionale ale cstoriei i familiei au
disprut, datorit egalitii dintre sexe de la locul
de munc. Deasemenea, vrsta la care femeile
se cstoresc nu mai este aa de fraged. Un
numr crescut de cupluri aleg s nu aib urmai.
Inuena religiei asupra societii a sczut dra-
matic fa de secolul trecut, devenind nensem-
nat pentru destule persoane. Postmodernismul
a devenit un portret al acestor schimbri aprute
n cultura i societatea contemporan.
Iat ce declar Elizabeth Wilson (Visiting
Professor of Cultural Studies at the London Col-
lege of Fashion): Micarea postmodernist poa-
te denit printr-un singur termen, Zeitgest
and rejected for heterogeneity, divergence and
differences. (Bernard, 2007)
Postmodernism can be appreciated as an
artistic style or an approach to create things.
Through the way the clothing is created, it pro-
vides the owner with an outline and a certain
social position. Andrew Hill states that clothes
are no longer associated with a certain social
hierarchy as a long time ago. For instance,
in the 19th century, the exposure of a nude
part of the womans body was associated with
prostitution. On the other hand, nowadays the
depreciatory meaning suggesting the naked-
ness of the womans body has lost its ironical
perspective and the rigid moral denition for-
mulated in the past.
Postmodernism makes no difference be-
tween the traditional and unconventional arts.
Some esthetic forms of art were seen as femi-
nine, (a relevant example is expressed by fash-
ion), instead of being considered inferior arts
if compared to masculine ambitions (architec-
ture). In Postmodernism there is no set of strict
rules to dene different art forms in an evasive
and ambiguous way.
During the whole 19th century, any work of
elaborated or decorative art was considered
feminine and inferior, and this distinction was
preserved in the 20th modernist century. (Ash
and Wilson, 1992)
Postmodernism questions the traditional cul-
tural values of the contemporary society espe-
cially the ones related to occidental culture. The
everyday lifestyle changed dramatically 50 or
even 30 years ago. The traditional values con-
nected to marriage and family disappeared given
the equality between genders at the workplace.
Moreover, women are no longer so young when
they get married. There are more and more cou-
ples who give up the idea of having successors.
The inuence of religion upon society decreased
dramatically if compared to the situation experi-
enced last century, and many people consider it
irrelevant. Postmodernism became a portrait of
these transformations emerged in the contempo-
rary culture and society.
Elizabeth Wilson (Visiting Professor of Cul-
tural Studies at the London College of Fashion)
182
(Spiritul timpului), termenii post-modernism i
postmodern intrnd n uzul general al popula-
iei sub acest sens.
Formele de art din Postmodernism rede-
nesc relaia dintre arta cult i cultura popular,
punnd sub semnul ntrebrii prezumtivele dife-
rene dintre lucrrile de art i alte produse de
larg consum.
Prin urmare, care este implicarea Postmoder-
nismului n mod? Dup cum am menionat an-
terior acestor rnduri, acest curent mbrieaz
toate formele de art. Cu toate c moda nu este
privit ca art, dezaprobat de adepii artelor
tradiionale, chiar reuete s transpun un nu-
mr covritor de elemente denitorii ale Post-
modernismului. Dovezile netgduite pot ob-
servate la prezentrile de mod ale designerilor
consacrai i debutani.
Recent, pe lng designerii consacrai ai
Postmodernismului (Maison Martin Margiela, Vi-
vienna Westwood, Comme des Garons, Yohji
Yamamoto i Hussein Chalayan), designerii de-
butani abuzeaz de Postmodernism n colec-
iile prezentate, ntotdeauna cu gndul la viitorul
modei, dar mereu inspirai de trecut.
Nimic nu mai este prea controversat pen-
tru noi, le-am vzut i fcut pe toate! Un model
delnd pe catwalk ntr-o rochie transparent,
nclat cu panto sport nu declaneaz scan-
dalul pe care l-ar pornit cu 30 de ani n urm.
Conotaia sexual a disprut, trupul urmaei Evei
nemaiind doar un obiect al instinctelor prima-
re. Femeile sunt pe picior de egalitate cu brbaii
din multe puncte de vedere. Pentru mine, asta
reprezint emanciparea femeii. Cu riscul de a
contrazis de unele feministe, Elizabeth Wilson
spune: Membrele micrii feministe au nceput
s exploreze sensurile eleganei (fashionable!!)
i s descopere modele noi de rochii. Aceast
prospeciune s-a desfurat mpotriva frmei de
suspiciune a feministelor tradiionale asupra ro-
chiilor voluptuoase: multe feministe respingnd
ideea de mod pentru felul n care poteneaz
ideea de jucrii sexuale asupra sexului slab, aso-
cierea cu consumerismul evident i poziia femeii
ca proprietate de lux, iar femeia este interpretat
ca neajutorat (tocurile nalte i taliile strnse pot
incomoda micarea liber).
states the following: The postmodern movement
can be dened through a single term, Zeitgest
(the spirit of time), while the post-modernism
and postmodern terms are generally used by
the population from this viewpoint.
The art forms in Postmodernism re-dene the
relationship between the cult art and folk culture,
questioning the possible differences between
works of art and other consumer goods.
Consequently, which is the implication of
Postmodenism in fashion? As I have already
mentioned, this trend comprises every form
of art. Although fashion is not seen as art,
it is even disconsidered by the fantatics of
traditional arts, it succeeds in transposing an
overwhelming number of postmodern essential
elements. The undenied evidence can be ob-
served at the fashion shows of traditional and
dbutant designers.
Recently, besides the well-known design-
ers of Postmodernism (Maison Martin Margiela,
Vivienna Westwood, Comme des Garons, Yohji
Yamamoto i Hussein Chalayan) the dbutant de-
signers take advantage of Postmodernism in the
collections presented. Always thinking of the fu-
ture of fashion yet always inspired by the past.
Nothing is too controversial for us, we have
seen and done all of it! A mannequin marching
along the catwalk, in a transparent dress and
Adidas sport shoes, does not provoke the scandal
it might have started 30 years ago. The sexual
connotation vanished, and the body of Eves de-
scendant is no longer only an object of primary
instincts. Women and men nd themselves on
an equal footing from more perspectives. For me
this represents the emancipation of women.
At the risk of being contradicted by some
feminist characters, Elizabeth Wilson tells: The
members of the feminine movement began to
explore the meanings of (fashionable!!) ele-
gance and nd new dress patterns. This pros-
pecting developed against the slight suspicion
of traditional feminists regarding the voluptuous
dresses: many feminists reject the idea of fash-
ion given the way it intensies the idea of sexual
toys inuencing the weaker and gentle sex, the
association with the obvious consumerism and
the womans position as a property of luxury, and
183
Dar tocmai despre asta este vorba n Post-
modernism, mbriarea tuturor punctelor de
vedere i evitarea unei singure explicaii.
n concluzie, din cercetarea mea asupra
postmodernismului i felul n care inueneaz
moda, am nvat c implic mai mult dect o
custur neterminat sau o muchie brut. Fieca-
re rnd cusut pe material, ecare linie trasat de
designer, ecare nasture cusut (sau nu) are un
sens anume. Moda n sine este Postmodernism,
reect lumea n care trim astzi. Am mai aat
c exist i o alt latur a artei: crticii de art care
deconstruiesc nelesul ecrei forme de art i
analizeaz semnicaia ecrui detaliu, orict de
insigniant ar . Fiecare detaliu este argumen-
tat i disecat de mai muli critici, care separat
scriu articole, jurnale i cri pe acelai subiect.
Postmodernismul n mod este omniprezent: ec-
lectism, pasti, parodie i deconstructivism. De-
signerii de mod mbin constant noul cu vechiul,
pentru a zmisli creaii care s devin the next
big thing. Cu ajutorul mass-mediei, moda a de-
venit mult mai accesibil i poate ajunge pe tot
cuprinsul Terrei, pentru a la ndemna consu-
matorului. Moda evolueaz cu o vitez mai mare
dect acum 30 de ani, i magazinele trebuie s
se aprovizioneze constant cu colecii noi, pentru
a satisface cerinele cumprtorilor pentru fast
fashion.
the woman is interpreted as helpless (the high-
heeled shoes and tight corsages can make the
free motion uncomfortable).
This is exactly what Postmodernism is about,
the approach of many viewpoints and the igno-
rance of a single explanation.
As a result, from my research and analy-
sis of Postmodernism and the way it inuences
fashion, Ive learned that it involves much more
than an unnished seam or a brute margin. Eve-
ry line sewn on the material, each line marked
by the designer, or each button (sewn or not)
are provided with a certain signication. Fash-
ion itself is postmodernism, it reects our own
world. I have also seen that there is another
aspect of art, the art critics who de-construct
the meaning of any art form and analyze the rel-
evance of each detail no matter how irrelevant
it might be.
Each detail is argumented and dissected by
more critics, who write their articles, journals
and books separately and on the same topic.
Postmodernism can be found everywhere in
fashion: eclecticism, pastiche, parody and de-
constructivism.
Fashion designers constantly combine the
new with the old in order to create the next big
thing. By means of mass media, fashion has be-
come more accessible and can get to the whole
Earth in order to be out of the consumers reach.
Fashion advances much faster than 30 years ago
and the stores must be constantly supplied with
new collections to satisfy the customersdemands
for fast fashion.
184 185
Anul II Licen, Costume pentru Teatrul Masca, 2014
Second year BA, Costumes for Masca Theatre, 2014
186
Oana Maria ROCA
asistent universitar doctorand
junior lecturer phd candidate
187
Multe tinere, care n copilrie au tiat per-
deaua mamei ca s fac rochie ppuii, doresc
s devin creator de mod. i eu am visat la fel.
Liceul de Art Nicolae Tonitza mi-a netezit calea
spre cariera pe care sper c am ales-o bine. Am
intrat la UANB, am fcut un Master n Mod i ia-
t-m acum cadru didactic i doctorand n ace-
eai specialitate. Sper s pot s ajut i ali tineri
s-i ndeplineasc visuri asemntoare.
mpreun cu colectivul profesoral din care
fac parte cu onoare de apte ani asigurm cu
profesionalism i abnegaie nevoia de cunoatere
a tinerelor generaii.
Atmosfera de mare familie de aici, n care
profesorii sunt un fel de prini, iar studenii un
soi de copii mai mult sau mai puin asculttori,
este propice desfurrii unui proces de lucru n
colectiv. Este poate singurul loc n care viitorul
creator se poate exprima liber, ndrzneala i
exuberana caracteristice vrstei neind nc do-
molite de inevitabile constrngeri ulterioare.
n acelai timp, cu toii suntem obligai s
parcurgem un proces continuu de studiu i cer-
cetare, valoricat prin experimentare i creaie.
n momentul de fa, eu sunt implicat, sub
coordonarea doamnei profesor Unda Popp, n -
nalizarea tezei mele de doctorat.
n aceast tez, intitulat Costumul de ce-
remonie n nalta societate a Principatelor Rom-
ne, n perioada domniilor fanariote; Inuene i
tendine; Modaliti de preluare i prelucrare n
O tem de cercetare
Cltoria n trecutul istoric naional
Many young women who, during their child-
hood, had cut their mothers curtain to make their
doll a dress, wanted to become fashion design-
ers. I was dreaming likewise. My art high-school,
Nicolae Tonitza, oriented my career, which I
hope is the proper one. I went to the National
University of Arts, Bucharest, I graduated from a
Fashion MA and here I am, a professor and PhD
student in the same specialty. I hope I will have
the opportunity to make other young people ful-
ll their similar dreams too.
Together with the teaching staff I have
been honoured to belong to for seven years
we provide the young generations with the
knowledge they need, with professionalism and
abnegation.
The family atmosphere from here, where
professors are like parents and students are like
more or less obedient children, is proper to the
development of a collective work process. Per-
haps it is the only place where the creative fu-
ture can be expressed freely, and the boldness
and exuberance characteristic of the age have
not been subsided by the inevitable subsequent
compulsions yet.
Withal, we are all obliged to experience a
continuous process of study and research evalu-
ated through experimentation and creation.
At present, I am focused on the completion
of my PhD thesis coordinated by professor Unda
Popp.
A topic of research The journey to
the national historical past
188
Oana Maria Roca, B.I.N., 2013
189
190
fashion-ul actual ncerc s explorez i s valoric
prin ltrul personal costumul de ceremonie de la
curtea domnilor fanarioi (1711 1821).
Acest veac de tranziie de la domniile p-
mntene spre epoca modern are caracteristici
denitorii n ceea ce privete costumul purtat de
personajele de rang nalt.
Costumul de origine bizantin, peste care s-a
suprapus costumul turcesc aa cum a fost adus
de fanarioi, ofer o imagine unic i spectacu-
loas, caracteristic romnilor, nainte ca moda
apusean s ne copleeasc.
Toat lumea este de acord c moda, ca form
de art, este un mediu de exprimare a propriei
personaliti a creatorului. Aceast expresie a per-
sonalitii se refer ns, mai mult sau mai puin,
i la consumatorul de mod. Globalizarea modei
sau moda globalizat a produs o anihilare treptat
a personalitii, mai ales n cazul consumatorului.
Globalizarea modei a fost determinat de
globalizarea industriei de mod. Un tricou Nike
este purtat oriunde i nu ne poate da nici un
indiciu despre naionalitatea sau cultura celui
ce l poart.
Mrci de renume au o prezen internaio-
nal consistent, de multe ori ind mai populare
n alte pri de pe glob dect n ara de origine.
Unul din cele mai bune exemple pentru un astfel
de fenomen este brand-ul Louis Vuitton, a crui
popularitate este extrem de mare n Japonia. Nu
trebuie s omitem faptul c aceast popularitate
a crescut i n urma colaborrii cu artistul pop
Takashi Murakami.
Un alt factor determinant n globalizarea
modei a fost existena la nivel mondial a unor
reele de institute de nvmnt pentru design
vestimentar. LEcole Suprieure des Arts et Tech-
niques de la Mode (ESMOND), fondat n 1841
la Paris, i-a dezvoltat n timp colegii la Berlin,
Mnchen, Beijing, Beirut, Damasc, Dubai, Jakar-
ta, Osaka, Tokyo, Oslo, Seul, Sao Paolo etc. n
aceast enumerare identicm localizri n ri
musulmane, alturi de ri cu tradiie catolic
puternic, precum Brazilia. Aceste institute ofer
o metod de nvare standardizat, punnd n
lumin omogenitatea creaiei de mod.
Pentru susintorii globalizrii, moda este
parte integrant a hibridizrii culturale.
In this thesis, entitled The ceremonial cos-
tume in the high society of the Romanian Princi-
palities during the Phanariot reigns; Inuences
and tendencies; Overtaking and processing mo-
dalities in the present fashion I try to explore
and evaluate the ceremonial costume from the
court of Phanariots from my own viewpoint
(1711 1821).
This century of transition from the earthly
reign to the modern epoch has some dening
characteristics regarding the costume worn by
senior gures.
The Byzanthine costume overlapped by the
Turkish costume, in the way it was brought by
Phanariots, offers a unique and spectacular im-
age specic to Romanians before we were over-
whelmed by the western fashion.
Everybody agrees that fashion, as a form of
art, represents a medium used to express the
personality of the creator. However, this expres-
sion of his personality also refers, more or less,
to the consumer of fashion. The globalization of
fashion, or the globalized fashion, have produced
a gradual annihilation of personalities, especially
in the case of consumers.
The globalization of fashion was determined
by the globalization of fashion industry. A Nike
T-shirt is worn anywhere and cant provide any
clue regarding the nationality or culture of the
one wearing it.
Brand names are consistently present inter-
nationally, and most of the times they are more
popular all over the world than in their native
country. One of the best examples to illustrate
such a phenomenon is the Louis Vuitton brand,
whose popularity is extremely high in Japan. We
must not ignore the fact that this popularity in-
creased after the collaboration with a pop artist,
Takashi Murakami.
Another essential factor in the globalization
of fashion was the global existence of some high
educational networks in fashion design. LEcole
Suprieure des Arts et Techniques de la Mode
(ESMOND), founded in 1841 in Paris, developed
its colleges in time at Berlin, Mnchen, Beijing,
Beirut, Damasc, Dubai, Jakarta, Osaka, Tokyo,
Oslo, Seul, Sao Paolo, etc. In this enumeration
we identify locations in Moslem countries, be-
191
Oana Maria Roca, B.I.N., 2013
192
Oana Maria Roca, B.I.N., 2013
193
194 195
sides strong Catholic countries like Brasil. These
institutes offer a standardized learning method,
highlighting the homogeneity of fashion.
For the supporters of globalization, fashion is
an integral part of cultural hybridization.
Thus, commercially successful creators like
Dolce & Gabbana or experimental conceptualists
like Rei Kawakubo often focus on the aspects of
different ethnic costumes and integrate them in
their collections. To the utmost, this can make a
young woman from South Africa wear a clothing
set inspired from the Indian sari.
The anatagonists of globalization connect
these phenomena regarding the expansion of
occidental ideas to the idea of capitalism and
consumerism. For them, the preservation of a
differentiation among different regional cultures
represents a more signicant evidence of origi-
nality. I believe we must agree with them or at
least reect on their approach.
Astfel, creatori cu succes comercial ca Dolce
& Gabbana sau conceptualiti experimentali ca
Rei Kawakubo se apleac adesea pe aspecte ale
diferitelor costume etnice i le integreaz n co-
leciile lor. La extrem, acest lucru poate conduce
ca o tnr din Africa de Sud s poarte un an-
samblu inspirat din sari-ul indian.
Opozanii globalizrii leag aceste fenome-
ne de expansiunea ideilor occidentale de capi-
talism i consumerism. Pentru ei, pstrarea unei
diferenieri ntre diferitele culturi regionale este o
dovad mai pregnant de originalitate. Cred c
trebuie s m de acord cu acetia, sau mcar s
reectm asupra abordrii lor.
Oana Maria Roca, B.I.N., 2013
196
Gheorghe PREDA
lector universitar doctor
lecturer doctor
197
Am acceptat n anul 2011 invitaia doamnei
profesor Unda Popp de a ine un curs de fashion
& media la Departamentul Mod a UNAB, ca pe
o provocare.
Veneam dup 17 ani de activitate didactic
n mai multe universiti din ar (UNATC, Uni-
versitatea Media, Universitatea Hyperion i Fa-
cultatea de Teatru i Televiziune de la Cluj) i
dup cteva lme de lung i de scurt metraj f-
cute pentru televiziune i cinema, iar acest curs
ntregea cumva dou pasiuni secrete ale mele:
moda i fotograa.
Realizasem, cu civa ani n urm, un lm do-
cumentar despre costumele doamnei Adina Nanu
i ntlnirea a fost una fascinant pentru mine.
Educaia sentimental, cci aa se chema
lmul, nu are cum s lipseasc din profesiunile
noastre.
Iar cursul nostru tocmai asta face: i nva
(sentimental, dar i cu ceva rigoare) pe studeni
s e i fotograi, i regizorii lmelor care arat
lumii propriile lor creaii.
Pentru c odat descifrat mecanismul dis-
cursiv al fotograei i lmului de fashion, ei vor
tii mai trziu ce s cear profesionitilor n dome-
niu, cnd va vorba de o strategie mediatic prin
care lumea modei, dar i cei doritori s se mbrace
cu gust, s ia cunotin de realizrile lor.
Orict ai de talentat nu poi tri doar n
lumea i preocuprile tale. Cineva, la un moment
dat, trebuie s cunoasc activitatea ta, s-i
Magia imaginilor
In 2011, I accepted the invitation of Profes-
sor Unda Popp to teach a fashion & media course
at the Fashion Department of the National Uni-
versity of Arts, Bucharest, as a challenge.
After 17 years of didactic activity I had to go
to more Universities from the country (UNATC,
the Media University, Hyperion University and
the Faculty of Theatre and Television, Cluj) and
after some feature or short lms, made for televi-
sion and the cinema, this course was somehow
fullling two secret passions of mine: fashion and
photography.
Several years ago I had made a documentary
about the costumes of Mrs. Adina Nanu and the
encounter was rather fascinating.
Sentimental education, the lms title,
couldnt miss from our professions.
And this is what our course does: teaches
(sentimentally, yet with some rigor) the students
to be both the photographers and lm producers
showing their own creations to the world.
As once they decode the discoursive mecha-
nism of photographies and fashion lms, they will
later know what to ask from the domain experts
when they are going to approach a media strat-
egy through which the world of fashion, as well
as those willing to dress up accordingly, will get
in touch with their accomplishments.
No matter how talented you might be, you
cant live only in your world and preoccupations.
Someone, at a certain moment, must be aware
The Magic of Images
198
Nicoll Bergman
199
Ana Maria Spiridon
200
aprecieze hainele i s le cumpere.
A vinde o hain nu nseamn neaprat a c-
dea pe panta facilului i a comercialului, ci mai
degrab a-i creea posibilitatea dezvoltrii cari-
erei prin suportul material necesar altor colecii,
altor prezentri i altor suporturi mediatice.
Noi am structurat activitatea noastr pe
dou niveluri:
La anul nti, i nvm pe studeni gra-
matica fotograei de fashion i le formm ca-
pacitatea de a gndi conceptual, astfel nct la
sfritul anului, ei s poat prezenta dou site-
uri cu creaiile lor:
Unul prezentat n sesiunea de iarn are un
concept impus de costum, cellalt, prezentat n
sesiunea de var, va cuprinde fotograi cu hai-
nele fcute n coal la cursurile de prol.
Nu poi face nimic n nici o industrie cre-
ativ fr s cunoti n detaliu realizrile i
personalitile semnicative din domeniul respec-
tiv.
n acest context, ni se pare esenial edu-
carea studenilor notri n materie de fotograe
contemporan de fashion. Ei trebuie s cunoas-
c faptul c n acest domeniu exist nume care
au revoluionat nu numai comunicarea mediati-
c, dar i fotograa ca gen artistic.
Mari creatori de mod i-au legat denitiv
numele de fotograile fcute de ei.
Erwin Olaf, David LaChapelle, Paolo Rover-
si, Mario Testino, Sarah Moon, Steven Meisel,
Nick Knight, Steven Klein, Mert & Marcus, An-
nie Leibowitz, Eugenio Recuenco, Irving Penn,
Jean-Baptiste Mondino sunt doar civa dintre
fotograi de fashion ale cror opere vor stu-
diate la curs.
n primvara acestui an, vom avea, pentru
prima dat n istoria Departamentului Mod un
site cu toate website-rile tematice ale studenilor,
realizate n ultimii trei ani.
Vom putea, astfel, demonstra att nivelul la
care ei au ajuns n materie de mod, dar i ori-
ginalitatea suportului mediatic, pe care deja tiu
s se bazeze.
La anul doi, pariul nostru e i mai ambiios.
Studenii trebuie s realizeze un fashion-lm cu o
durat de 3, 4 minute care s e un discurs au-
dio-visual pornit de la un concept clar i original.
of your activity, like your clothes and buy them.
Selling an item of clothing doesnt neces-
sarily mean to accept the commercial and easy
way, it rather creates the opportunity to de-
velop your career through the material support
needed by other collections, presentations or
media supports.
We have structured our activity on two levels:
During the rst year we teach the students
the grammar of fashion photos and form their
capacity to think conceptually, thus at the end
of the year they will be able to present two sites
with their creations.
The one presented during the winter ses-
sion suggests a concept imposed by the cos-
tume, the other one, presented during the sum-
mer session, comprises photos displaying the
clothes made at classes.
You cannot do anything in any creative in-
dustry without being aware of the signicant
achievements and personalities in that domain.
In this context, we nd it essential to edu-
cate our students in contemporary fashion pho-
tography. They must know the fact that in this
domain there is a name which revolutionized not
only the media communication but also photog-
raphy as an artistic genre.
There are great fashion creators who are
strictly connected to their photos:
Erwin Olaf, David LaChapelle, Paolo Roversi,
Mario Testino, Sarah Moon, Steven Meisel, Nick
Knight, Steven Klein, Mert & Marcus, Annie Lei-
bowitz, Eugenio Recuenco, Irving Penn, Jean-
Baptiste Mondino are only some of the fashion
photographies studied at classes.
This spring, for the rst time in the history
of the Fashion Department, we shall have a site
with all the students thematic websites accom-
plished during the last three years.
Thus we shall have the occasion to demon-
strate not only their knowledge in fashion but
also the originality of the media support which
they can already count on.
Regarding the second year students, our bet
is even more ambitious. Students must make a
fashion lm, lasting for 3 or 4 minutes, an audio-
visual discourse derived from a clear and original
and clear concept.
201
Considerm c lucrm ntr-un mediu stimu-
lant, unde creativitatea e exersat cotidian, ca o
forare a propriilor limite.
Pentru c pn la urm, orice activitate artis-
tic este o excursie n necunoscut. n necunos-
cutul din tine i n arbitrarul lumii nconjurtoare.
Dac n urma acestor activiti tu ca student
ai aat lucruri noi i importante despre tine i ai
nvat s le faci cunoscute i celorlali, nseam-
n c munca noastr na fost n zadar.
We consider that we work in a stimulating
environment where creativity is practised every
day, as a compulsion of ones own limits.
As, in the long run, any artistic activity is a
trip towards the unknown. The unknown you can
feel in yourself and in the arbitrary aspects of the
surrounding world.
If after all these activities you, as a student,
have experienced new and relevant things about
yourself, and you learned how to make the oth-
ers familiar with them, that means you havent
worked in vain.
edina foto Buna Vestire, 2013
Photo session Annunciation, 2013
202
Alexandru-Ioan MRGINEAN
asistent universitar doctor
junior lecturer doctor
203
Ceramica greac timpurie, a stilului arha-
ic, dovedete o elegan a stilizrii pe care am
redescoperit-o recent pe un vas, tip platou, din
muzeul de arheologie de la Varna din Bulgaria.
Deseori, conceptul de elegan a fost asociat cu
perioadele decadente n istoria stilurilor, datorit
ranamentului stilistic inerent perioadelor trzii
ale etapelor de maturizare a stilului respectiv.
Elegana gurilor unui Domenikos Theotokopo-
ulos se asociaz cu manierismul tot astfel cum
Laocoon este privit ca exemplu de decaden a
stilului elenistic. Oare Gnditorul de la Haman-
gia, statuetele cicladice sau Venus din Lespugue
s e tot forme ale unui stil trziu, ranat, deca-
dent? Elegana stilizrii din frescele din Cnossos
sau ale unor morminte etrusce sunt rezultatul
unor decantri, n timp, ale unor concepii despre
cum trebuia s arate stilizarea imaginii pictate,
i nu doar interpretarea de moment a artistului.
Dei studiul corpului i proporiilor umane a dus
arta antic pe un drum al stilizrii, care n anumi-
te cazuri s-a apropiat de un anume realism, chiar
n portretistica egiptean n granit sau n portre-
tele de la Faium, putem observa c elegana vi-
ziunii se pierde n concepia realismului roman,
ct i n stilizrile de tip bizantin, de sorginte
egiptean sau oriental. Dac putem compara
un Laocoon cu diverse compoziii baroce de tip
Sfnta Tereza n extaz sau cu abordarea stilis-
tic michelangeolesc ntr-o lucrare ca Moise,
putem observa c atribuim categoria estetic de
Coordonatele matematice
ale eleganei
The early Greek ceramics of the archaic style
certies the elegance of stylization which I have re-
cently found on a tray type dish in the archaeologi-
cal museum from Varna, Bulgaria. The concept of
elegance was often associated with the decadent
periods of time in the history of styles given the
inherent stylistic renement during the late phases
of that styles stages of maturation. The elegance
of Domenikos Theotokopoulos is associated with
mannerism just as Laocoon is considered an
example of decadence in the Hellenistic style. May
The thinker from Hamangia, the Cycladic stat-
ues or Venus from Lespugue be the forms of a
late, rened and decadent style? The elegance
of stylization in the frescoes from Cnossos or the
Etruscan tombs are the result of several gradual
decantations of some conceptions about the way
the stylization of painted images was supposed to
look like, not only the spontaneous interpretation of
the artist. Although the study of the body and hu-
man proportions oriented the ancient art towards
the stylization which, in certain cases, got closer
to a certain realism, even in the Egyptian portrait-
making in granite or the portraits from Faium, we
can observe that the elegance of vision vanishes in
the conception of the Roman realism, as well as in
the Byzanthine stylizations, which were originally
Egyptian or Oriental. If we can compare a Lao-
coon to different baroque compositions like Saint
Theresa in ecstasy or to the stylistic Michelangean
approach in a work like Moses, we can notice that
The mathematic coordinates
of elegance
204
elegan aa cum este resc n evaluarea unor
aspecte din artele vizuale i anume bazndu-ne
pe ideile personale, preconcepute, fr a ne baza
pe vreo metod de cercetare tiinic. Desigur,
tiina este un fenomen social, cu propriul su
sistem de recompense, cu snobismele sale tipi-
ce, cu mecanismele sale interesante de alian
i autoritate...; sociologii i antropologii au des-
coperit c nsui procesul de schimbare a teori-
ei tiinice este unul social.- ar spune Thomas
Kuhn. Adevrurile tiinice sunt n fond acorduri
sociale citate n repetate rnduri, privind ceea ce
este real, acorduri la care s-a ajuns printr-un
proces tiinic de negociere. Negocierile pri-
vind ce anume constituie o dovad sau un bun
test sunt la fel de dezordonate ca orice disput
ntre avocai i politicieni.
1
Interesant este abordarea din punct de
vedere al rezolvrilor tehnice ale vestimentaiei
care, asemntor domeniilor nrudite ale de-
signului de produs sau ambiental, opereaz cu
coduri matematice n momentul nevoii de iden-
ticare al unui material textil sau al unei culori
anume. Lipsa ncifrrii, a codicrii similare cu
notele din muzic, las limbajul artistic descope-
rit din punct de vedere al transmiterii prin alte
medii dect prin sine nsui. Descrierile n cuvin-
te nu vor putea reconstitui niciodat mozaicuri
sau picturi antice pierdute ireversibil. Faptul c
exist comparaii literare care ne povestesc cum
psrile se npusteau asupra strugurilor din pic-
tura unui Apelles ne creeaz o idee vag despre
miestria trompe loeil-ului n Grecia antic. Chiar
n condiiile actuale ale codicrii matematice ale
imaginii, ale corespondenei unei multitudini de
tonuri cu standardizri de tip RAL sau PANTONE
este imposibil descrierea prin cuvinte, astfel ca
peste sute de ani o imagine s poat reconsti-
tuit pe baza unor cuvinte.
Deci fr s ne raportm neaprat la teoriile
enunate de Thomas Kuhn, ne am ntr-un uni-
vers care scap oricror ncercri de denire n ce
privete noiunea de elegan concept estetic
ce nu poate ncadrat n coordonate matematice.
Chiar dac la momentul actual moda este s ne
nvrtim ntr-o lume a proceselor i nu a obiecte-
1 Lee Smolin, Spaiu, timp, univers, editura Hu-
manitas, Bucureti, 2008, p. 53.
we attribute the aesthetic category of elegance in
its natural way in the evaluation of some aspects in
visual arts counting on personal and preconceived
ideas without relying on any scientic research
method. Science is certainly a social phenom-
enon, provided with its own system of rewards,
typical snobisms, interesting alliances and author-
ity mechanisms...; sociologists and anthropologists
found out that the transforming process of the
scientic theory is a social one.- that is what Tho-
mas Kuhn would say. Scientic truths are, in fact,
social agreements cited quite frequently when re-
ferring to what is real, the agreement they reach
through a scientic process of negociation. The
negociations referring to what represents a proof
or a good test are as disordered as any dispute
between lawyers and politicians.
1
What I nd interesting is the approach from
the perspective of the clothings technical solu-
tions which, like all the domains connected to the
product and environmental design, operates with
mathematical codes when identifying a textile
material or a certain colour. The lack of a codi-
cation which is similar to musical notes leaves the
artistic language unprepared when transmitting
through more different contexts than itself.
The descriptions in words will never have
the opportunity to develop the irreversibly lost
mosaics or ancient paintings. The fact that there
are literary comparisons telling us how the birds
were swooping upon the grapes in the painting
of Apelles creates a vague idea regarding the
trompe loeil mastery in ancient Greece.
Even in the present conditions of the images
mathematic codication, or considering the cor-
respondence of a multitude of tones with RAL or
PANTONE standardizations, it is impossible to de-
scribe all this in words to facilitate the reorgani-
zation of the image on the basis of some words
one hundred years later.
Thus, without necessarily connecting to the
theories stated by Thomas Kuhn, we nd ourselves
in a universe, which cannot be dened in terms of
elegance an aesthetic concept which cant be
seen in mathematic coordinates. Although at the
moment it is fashionable to act in a world of proc-
1 Lee Smolin, Space, Time, universe, publishing
House Humanitas, Bucharest, 2008, p. 53.
205
lor sau punctelor determinabile ca poziie, form,
structur n spaiu, n momentul n care coborm
n prozaic realizm c avem nevoie de coduri i
termeni clari de exprimare care s ne fac inteli-
gibili a se citi citibili de ctre semenii notri,
ntruct i conceptul de elegan face parte, n
cele din urm, din limbajul comunicrii interuma-
ne. Sigur c domeniul categoriilor estetice i al
artei, n general, aparent nu are legtur cu ma-
tematica, deoarece n art avem o innitate de
soluii valabile, pe cnd n matematic avem o
singur soluie. Pentru a contrazice ce am spus
mai sus, citez n continuare din opera citat a lui
Lee Smolin: Din ntmplare am fost unul dintre
cei care au descoperit prima soluie propriu-zi-
s a ecuaiilor care denesc o teorie cuantic a
cosmologiei. Acestea se numesc ecuaiile Whee-
ler-DeWitt sau ecuaiile constrngerilor cuantice.
Soluiile acestor ecuaii denesc strile cuantice
menite s descrie universul ntreg. Lucrnd la n-
ceput cu un prieten, Ted Jacobson, apoi cu altul,
Carlo Rovelli, am gsit pe la sfritul anilor 1980
un numr innit de soluii al acestor ecuaii. Era
un fapt extrem de surprinztor, cu att mai mult
cu ct puine din ecuaiile zicii teoretice pot
rezolvate exact.
n concluzie, descoperirile tiinice i noi-
le tehnologii impun profesionitilor cunoaterea
unor programe (aplicaii), sau cel puin implic
faptul de a ti ce s ceri unui colaborator ingi-
ner, atunci cnd tu eti artistul, pentru a vorbi pe
nelesul membrilor echipei atunci cnd spui c
ai nevoie urgent de cinci metri liniari de pnz
printabil cu eco-solvent i nu cu latex, cu 67%
bumbac i 33% poliester, albastru tip Pantone
2745, la 330 grame / metrul ptrat i nu 350 gra-
me cum ar dori s-i dea furnizorul pentru c
numai pe aceea o mai are n stoc.
Culorile Pantone aate n trend n toamna anului 2013, Verde smarald 17-5641 a fost desemnat culoarea anului
The Pantone colours in fashion in the autumn of 2013, Emerald green 17-5641 was designated the colour of the year

esses, not of objects or points which can be deter-

mined as position, form, structure in space, when
we enter the prosaic context, we realize that we
need codes and clear terms of expression to make
us inteligible read it as readable by our fel-
lows as the concept of elegance nally belongs to
the language of inter-human communication.
It is certain that the general domain of aes-
thetic and artistic categories has apparently no con-
nection with mathematics, as in art we have an
innity of viable solutions while in mathematics we
have a single solution. In order to contradict what
I mentioned before, I shall further quote from Lee
Smolins work: I happened to be one of those who
discovered the rst solution of the equations de-
ning a quantum theory of cosmology. These are
named the Wheeler-DeWitt equations or the equa-
tions of quantum constraints. The solutions of these
equations dene the quantum conditions meant to
describe the whole universe. Working with a friend,
Ted Jacobson, then with another one, Carlo Rovelli,
at the very beginning, at the end of the 80s I found
these equations innite number of solutions. It was
an extremely surprising fact as few equations in
theoretical physics can be solved exactly.
In conclusion, the scientic discoveries and
new technologies ask the professionals and ex-
perts to know some programs or applications, or
involve the idea that it is important for you to
know what to ask from an engineer collaborator
when you are the artist, in order to be under-
stood by the teams members when you say that
you urgently need ve meters of printable canvas
provided with some eco-solvent, not with liquid
rubber, 67% cotton, and 33% polyester, the Pan-
tone 2745 type blue, 330 grams / square meters,
not 350 grams as the supplier would suggest
as that is the only one he has got in stock.
206
Matei ARNUTU
lector universitar doctorand
lecturer phd candidate
207
Mi-e imposibil s scriu despre coal
1
aa cum
era nainte de 1997, anul n care am fost admis ca
student la Facultatea de Arte Plastice. Despre pe-
rioada de studenie a scrie cu plcere, dar poate
cu o prea mare doz de subiectivism. A tentat
s mpart aceast bucat de timp n trei felii. Pri-
ma (cea de dup admitere), plin de entuziasm,
stare amplicat de profesorul Valeriu Mladin, un
om de o energie contagioas. A doua (cea din
anul 2), o felie digerat cu greu n perioada de
lucru n atelierul profesorului Mircia Dumitrescu.
A treia (aceea la care m voi raporta mereu ca la
cea mai relevant perioad din formarea mea),
marcat, de ntlnirea cu Florin Mitroi, toate trei
nvelite n aura vrstei de douzeci i ceva de ani.
Mai adecvat ar s vorbesc despre prezent.
Despre cum apare coala
2
vzut din postura celui
care este nc student (doctorand), dar i profe-
sor
3
. Mai precis, din perspectiva celui care pred
cursuri de prelucrare a imaginii pe calculator
un domeniu care opereaz cu aplicaii complexe,
ntr-un mediu virtual aproape inseparabil de cel
online , dar care n perioada studeniei, succint
pomenit mai sus, nu tia nc ce nseamn un
telefon mobil. Iat cu ce vitez ntinerete coala
4
!
1 A se citi Universitatea Naional de Arte
Bucureti.
2 Vezi nota 1.
3 A nu se confunda cu titlul academic.
4 Vezi nota 1.
UNArte mai tnr cu 150 de ani
It is impossible for me to write about school
1

as it used to be before 1997, when I was ad-
mitted as a student at the Art Faculty. I would
be pleased to write about my studenthood, but I
would be too subjective. I would be tempted to
distribute this piece of time in three slices. The
rst (the one following my admittance), was full
of enthusiasm, a condition amplied by profes-
sor Valeriu Mladin, a contagiously energetic man.
The second (the one experienced in the second
year), a hardly digested slice, during the work
period in the studio of professor Mircia Dumitres-
cu. The third (the one I shall always consider the
most relevant period of my formation) marked by
the encounter with Florin Mitroi. All these three
slices are enfolded by the aura of a beautiful age
twenty years and some more.
It would be more appropriate for me to refer
to the present. About the way school
2
appears
from the perspective of the one who is still a
student (a PhD candidate) yet also a professor
3
.
More precisely, from the perspective of the one
who teaches courses about the computer image
processing a domain operating with complex
applications, in a virtual medium which is almost
inseparable from the online one , but one who,
during his already mentioned studenthood, had
1 Read the National University of Arts, Bucharest.
2 See the rst note.
3 Not to be confused with the academic title.
UNArte 150 years younger
208 209
210 211
212
Elena Cocoil, Insectar, 2013
Elena Cocoil, Insectarium, 2013
213
Un scriitor romn contemporan arma c
suntem ine ambii, scufundate deopotriv n
realitate i n mediul virtual. Ne petrecem suci-
ent de mult timp conectai la mediul online, astfel
nct acest fapt s ne modeleze existena.
Internetul este un mijloc de informare priori-
tar. Cnd cineva are o ntrebare / dilem, Google
e primul loc unde caut rspunsul. i de cele mai
multe ori doar acolo. Din ce n ce mai accesibil,
internetul devine i din ce n ce mai competent
ca surs de informaii, pe msur ce instituiile
educaionale serioase i dezvolt biblioteci i
spaii de informare online. Dincolo de simpla in-
formare, procesul de nvare se mut i el n
virtual, tutorialul ind un cuvnt care ar trebui s
intre curnd n DEX.
Punctul n care se a realitatea virtual n
acest moment este dominat ns de reelele de
socializare. Pentru majoritatea tinerilor sub 30
de ani realitatea concret i cea virtual sunt
inseparabile, ba de multe ori cea de-a doua o
determin pe prima. Atitudinea fac ce fac pen-
tru ca s postez nu mai e o noutate, iar pentru
unii a devenit un obicei. Social media a depit
ns de mult componenta de divertisment. Feno-
menul reelelor de socializare ne-a potcovit pe
noi inele ambii cu obiceiuri noi
5
. Acestea
au lucrat att de adnc n contiina noastr, n-
ct au nceput s remodeleze ntreaga societate.
Informaia / tirea culeas direct de la locul unui
eveniment de ctre surse multiple se propag
nemijlocit n reelele sociale. Apare astfel jurna-
lismul participativ, care aduce un aport semnica-
tiv n ceea ce privete obiectivitatea informaiei.
Receptorul nu mai poate att de uor manipulat
de media, pentru c i poate extrage informaia
din mai multe surse independente. Astfel, ecare
individ dotat cu un telefon cu camer conectat
la internet, posesor al unui cont pe o reea de
socializare, devine jurnalist. Poate fr voia lui.
Jurnalismul participativ a devenit deja o subcate-
gorie a jurnalismului, ind dezbtut de diveri au-
tori precum Sue Robinson i denit de Wikipedia.
Ascensiunea recent a social media a adus
5 Profesorii comunic n mod uzual cu studenii
pe Facebook. Acolo se lanseaz ntrebri, se posteaz
anunuri, resurse, documente, materiale documentare
etc.
no idea what a mobile phone meant. This is the
way school can remain young
4
.
A Romanian contemporary writer has stated
that we are amphibious beings, existing both in
reality and in the virtual context. We spend suf-
cient time connected to the online world to be
modelled by this.
The Internet represents a prioritary means
of information. When someone has a question/
dilemma, Google is the rst context where he
can nd the answer. And, most of the time, only
there. More and more accessible, the Internet
becomes more and more competent as a source
of information, while the serious educational in-
stitutions develop their online libraries and infor-
mational spaces. Beyond the simple information,
the learning process also moves into the virtual,
and the tutorial becomes a word to be included
in dictionaries very soon.
However, the point where we can nd the
virtual reality at this moment is dominated by
social networks. For most of the young people,
who are younger than 30, the concrete and vir-
tual realities cannot be separated, and very often
the latter determines the former. An attitude like
I do what I do to post is no longer something
new, and for some it has become a habit. Yet
social media had gone beyond the entertaining
view long time ago. The social network phenom-
enon overwhelmed us the amphibious be-
ings with new habits
5
. These penetrated our
conscience very profoundly thus they started to
re-structure the whole society. The information
/ news collected directly from the place of an
event by multiple sources is dissimulated directly
into the social networks. Thus we speak about
the participative journalism which signicantly
contributes to the objectiveness of information.
The receiver is no longer manipulated by the me-
dia so easily as it receives the information from
more independent sources. As a result, each in-
dividual, equipped with a phone provided with a
camera connected to the internet, the possessor
4 See the rst note.
5 Professors regularly communicate with students
on the Facebook. That is the place where they launch
questions, post announcements, resources, documents,
documentary materials etc.
214
argumente pentru reconsiderarea jurnalismului
mai degrab ca proces, dect ca produs al unui
trust de tiri anume. Din aceast perspectiv, jur-
nalismul este participativ, un proces distribuit n-
tre mai muli autori i care implic att jurnalitii,
ct i publicul.
6
Era digital a inaugurat un nou fel de jur-
nalism, n care cetenii obinuii joac un rol
mai important n procesul de apariie a tirilor,
ascensiunea jurnalismului popular ind posibil
prin intermediul internetului. Folosind telefoane
inteligente dotate cu camer video, cetenii ac-
tivi sunt capabili s nregistreze tiri i evenimente
i s le ncarce pe canale precum You Tube, aces-
tea ind adesea descoperite i preluate de piaa
media mainstream. ntre timp, accesul facil la tiri
provenind dintr-o varietate de surse online, pre-
cum blogurile sau social media, a oferit cititorilor
oportunitatea de a colecta informaii din multi-
ple surse ociale i neociale, n loc s accese-
ze doar uxurile media tradiionale supuse unor
agende.
7
Apariia n acest text a ideilor de mai sus
e justicat de unele cazuri n care studeni la
Arte, n spe chiar unii de la Mod (i urmresc
pe Facebook), duc n paralel o activitate jurna-
listic. i nu ntotdeauna n domeniul n care i
pregtete coala.
Accesul nelimitat la informaii profesionale din
ce n ce mai competente i dezvoltarea simului
civic datorat apariiei uxurilor de tiri indepen-
dente (chiar dac nc rave) sunt lucrurile bune,
sntoase, peste care ambianul poate s dea
notnd n mediul virtual.
Poate ns stimulat creativitatea de acest
mediu? Rspunsul este, fr ndoial, armativ.
Documentarea online a devenit obligatorie na-
inte de orice demers conceptual menit s gene-
reze proiecte concrete. Epoca internetului n
care trim se intersecteaz cu era designului,
iar acesta e innit mai uor accesibil online.
Studentul (i nu numai) poate vedea ce s-a
6 Robinson, Sue, Journalism as Process: The
Organizational Implications of Participatory Online News,
Journalism & Communication Monographs, 21 septembrie,
2011, nr. 13, p. 137.
7 A se vedea: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/
Journalism#cite_note-9
of an account on a social network, can become a
journalist. Perhaps unwillingly. The participative
journalism has already become a sub-category of
journalism analysed by different authors such as
Sue Robinson and dened by Wikipedia.
The recent development of social media
brought a lot of arguments to reconsider journal-
ism more as a process than as the product of a
certain news core. From this viewpoint, journal-
ism is participative, a process distributed among
more authors which involves not only the jour-
nalists, but also the public.
6
The digital era inaugurated a new kind of
journalism in which common citizens play a more
important role in the dissemination of news, and
the development of popular journalism is possi-
ble only by means of the Internet. While using
intelligent phones provided with a video camera,
the active citizens are able to record news and
events and save them on different channels such
as You Tube, then these are often found and
overtaken by the media mainstream market. In
the meantime, the easy access to the world of
news deriving from a variety of online sources,
such as blogs or social media, offered the read-
ers the opportunity to collect information from
multiple ofcial and informal sources instead of
accessing only the traditional media streams sub-
mitted to an agenda.
7
The appearance in this text of the ideas above
is justied by several cases when students from
the Art University, more exactly some belonging
to the Fashion Department (I follow them on the
Facebook), also deal with a journalistic activity.
And not always in the domain school prepared
them for.
The unlimited access to professional and more
and more competent information and the develop-
ment of civic sense, given the emergence of inde-
pendent streams of news (even if they are frail),
are the good and proper things the amphibian
can feel while swimming in the virtual medium.
6 Robinson, Sue, Journalism as Process: The
Organizational Implications of Participatory Online News,
Journalism & Communication Monographs, September 21,
2011, no. 13, p. 137.
7 See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Journalism
#cite_note-9
215
fcut pn n prezent ntr-un anumit domeniu.
Are acces instant la munca celor mai importani
designeri, poate studia tendinele etc.
Mediul online este prin deniie interactiv, iar
anumii dezvoltatori de proiecte artistice mizeaz
pe implicarea utilizatorului de internet n demer-
sul lor creativ. Un exemplu din domeniul modei
ar proiectul D.dress conceput de newyorkezii
de la continuumfashion.com. Acetia au creat o
aplicaie cu ajutorul creia orice utilizator poate
s construiasc tiparul unei piese vestimentare
conform unui algoritm ce are la baz forma triun-
ghiular. Acest tipar este ulterior tiat i asamblat
pe msura (co)autorului. Iat mai departe cum
enun creatorii conceptul din spatele D.dress
i modul n care funcioneaz proiectul:
Elena Cocoil, Insectar, 2013
Elena Cocoil, Insectarium, 2013
Laura Dimancea, Insectar, 2013
Laura Dimancea, Insectarium, 2013
However, can creativity be stimulated by this
domain? The answer is, without any doubt, yes.
The online documentation became compulsory
before any conceptual approach meant to gener-
ate concrete projects. The Internet epoch expe-
rienced by us intersects with the design era, and
this is much easier to access online. The student
(and not only) can see what has been done in a
certain domain. He enjoys instant access in the
work of the most important designers, he can
study the trends etc.
By denition, the online medium is interac-
tive, and certain artistic project makers count
on the implication of the Internet user in their
creative approach. A suggestive example in the
fashion domain is provided by a project, D.dress,
216
Bianca Budau, Rochie Pop Art, 2013
Bianca Budau, Pop Art Dress, 2013
217
Viitorul modei i viitorul produselor de con-
sum n general se a nu doar n tehnologii i
materiale avansate, ci i n reevaluarea designu-
lui, manufacturii i desfacerii. Mixnd producia
rapid, aplicaiile interactive i accesibilitatea in-
ternetului, putem lsa pe oricine s se implice
direct n procesele de design i producie.
Pe scurt, colecia D este de fapt un software.
Aplicaia D.dress i permite s desenezi o rochie,
o transform ntr-un model 3D i export un tipar
pentru a realiza o rochie real pe msura ta. Un
cutter laser sau un plotter taie n material tipa-
rul, care apoi este cusut i asamblat ntr-o rochie.
Toate creaiile au n comun tema Little black
dress i forma triunghiului generat de aplicaie.
Aceasta permite practic oricui s i creeze pro-
priul design inovativ de rochie. (Sursa: continu-
umfashion.com.)
n compania acestor fenomene i desfoar
activitatea studentul la arte. Are acces aproape
nelimitat la informaie de calitate (fapt care
printre altele i ofer ansa de a face exerciii
de libertate), precum i la software de ultim
generaie. i asta dac ne referim doar la mediul
virtual n care noat ambienii, care vine ca o
completare la noiunile hiperspecializate puse la
dispoziie de profesori.
Acest context ind creat, tragem concluzia
c, cel puin n teorie, din ce n ce mai tnra
UNAB este locul de unde pornesc elitele domeni-
ilor creative din viitorul apropiat.
conceived by the New Yorkers from continuum-
fashion.com. They created an application which
can be approached by any user to construct the
pattern of a clothing item according to an algo-
rithm based on a triangular form. This pattern is
subsequently cut and assembled according to the
(co)author. Here is the way the creators dene
the concept beyond the D.dress and the way in
which the project works:
The future of fashion, and the future of con-
sumption products in general, can be found not
only in advanced technologies and materials, but
also in the re-evaluation of design, manufactures
and deliveries. By mixing the fast production, the
interactive applications and the accessibility of
the Internet, we can allow anybody to involve
directly in the design and production processes.
Briey, the D collection is actually a soft-
ware. An application such D.dress can make you
draw a dress, transform it into a model in three
dimensions and export a pattern to create a real
dress for you. A cutter laser or a plotter outlines
the pattern in the material which is then sewn
and assembled into a dress. All creations are
mutually focused on the Little black dress topic
and the form of the triangle is generated by the
application. This permits practically anyone to
create his own innovative dress design. (source:
continuumfashion.com)
The art student develops his activity in the
company of these phenomena. He enjoys an
almost unlimited access to qualitative informa-
tion (which among other facts offers him the
chance to practise liberty exercises), as well as to
the most recent software. All this if we refer only
to the virtual medium in which the amphibians
swim, as an additional detail to the hyperspecial-
ized notions the professors are provided with.
Given this context, we draw the conclu-
sion that, at least theoretically, the younger and
younger National University of Arts Bucharest
marks a starting point for the elites of the crea-
tive domains in the very close future.
218
Adina CEZAR
coregraf
choreographer
219
De-a lungul timpului, arta (indiferent de for-
ma acesteia) i moda s-au intersectat sub diferite
forme. Au fost momente n care designerii s-au
inspirat dup operele artitilor celebri, momente
n care ei au devenit artiti i momente n care
cele dou pri au colaborat la realizarea unor
colecii ieite din comun.
n ceea ce privete relaia dintre mod i
dans, consider c ne este clar tuturor: moda este
o form de art ce mbrac micarea trupului.
Personaje precum Isadora Duncan au repre-
zentat o surs de inspiraie i un model pentru
generaii ntregi de designeri vestimentari.
Studiul micrii, a cineticii corporale, a for-
melor n micare supuse legilor zicii reprezint
pentru orice designer de vrf o provocare i un
studiu de o via.
Micarea i moda sunt elemente inseparabile
ale esteticului cotidian.
Costume n micare
In the course of time, art (regardless of its
form) and fashion intersected in different forms.
There were moments when the designers inspired
from the works of famous artists, moments when
they became artists and moments when the two
parts cooperated to realize an outstanding col-
lection.
Regarding the connection between fashion
and dance, I consider that it is clear to each of
us: fashion represents an art which clothes the
bodys motion.
Characters such as Isadora Duncan repre-
sented a source of inspiration and a model for
generations of fashion designers.
For each important designer the study of mo-
tion, corporal kinetics, forms in motion, subordi-
nated to the laws of Physics, represents a chal-
lenge and a lifetime study.
Motion and fashion are the inseparable ele-
ments of everydays aesthetics.
Costumes in movement
220
Andrei Mortasifu
221
Elide Toma
222
Liliana IFRIM
lector universitar doctor inginer
lecturer doctor engineer
223
Absolvent al unei Universiti Tehnice, Gheor-
ghe Asachi din Iai, cu un doctorat la Universi-
tatea Politehnic Bucureti i cu o experien de
peste 20 de ani n industriile modei, deci n prin-
cipiu ind foarte tehnic, mi gsesc paradoxal
locul i rolul bine denit n mijlocul artitilor.
Pentru mine este foarte clar faptul c aceast
disciplin este bine-venit i necesar la Depar-
tamentul Mod din cadrul UNAB.
Chiar dac rolul acestei materii este perce-
put ca ruca cea urt a domeniului, disci-
plina pe care nimeni nu o place, dar pe care
reuesc s o neleag, n timp, ajung s o i
respecte, are acelai rol n bagajul informaional
al viitorului designer ca i sarea n buctria
unui Chef cu 3 stele n ghidul Michellin.
Dup nalizarea studiului tehnic i devenirea
mea inginereasc, ntlnirea direct cu designul
i moda a avut loc la prima rm din Romnia
care ncepnd cu anul 1991 a educat publicul
s neleag i s consume moda. Aici am avut
ocazia s am n echipa pe care o coordonam, pe
lng economiti, ingineri, specialiti n resurse
umane sau marketing i management i civa
designeri, produi de prestigioasele Universiti
de Arte din Bucureti i Cluj.
Lucrnd cu colegii designeri, am realizat ce
caliti, abiliti, competene au acumulat n pre-
gtirea lor academic. Am avut astfel posibilita-
tea s sesizez ce poate i ce trebuie mbuntit
din punct de vedere tehnic n pregtirea lor.
Ruca cea Urt
sau despre rolul i locul
Tehnologiei i construciei tiparului
A graduate from a Technical University,
Gheorghe Asachi from Iai, a PhD at the Poly-
technic University, Bucharest, and more than
20 years experienced in fashion industries, this
being tehnical, I paradoxically nd my well-
dened place and role among artists. It is very
clear to me that this discipline is welcome and
necessary at the Fashion Department within the
National University of Arts Bucharest.
Although the role of this subject is perceived
as the Ugly little duck of the domain, the disci-
pline nobody seems to like, but which they can
gradually understand and respect, has the same
role in the informational baggage of the future
designer as the salt in the three-star kitchen of a
Chef in the Michellin guide...
After the completion of my technical and en-
gineering studies, my practical encounter with
design and fashion occurred at the rst company
in Romania which, starting with 1991, educated
the public to understand and consume fashion.
Here I had the opportunity to coordinate a team
comprising both economists, engineers, special-
ists in human resources, marketing or manage-
ment and several designers taught by the pres-
tigious Art Universities from Bucharest and Cluj.
Working with my designer colleagues, I realized
the qualities, abilities and competences they have
accumulated during their academic training. Thus I
had the possibility to notice what can and must be
improved technically in their development.
The little ugly Duck
or about the role of
Technology and pattern constructions
224
The opportunity to contribute to the forma-
tion and modeling of the future generations of de-
signers was offered to me two years ago by Mrs.
Unda Popp, as soon as I got my engineering PhD
at the Faculty of Business Entrepreneurship, Engi-
neering and Management within the Polytechnic
University, Bucharest. Her offer derived from some
certain animosity and indisposition related to the
discipline I am still delighted to share with my stu-
dents. I hope that now, after two years of activity
with this group, I could stimulate the interest in
this discipline, which does not comprise a series of
formulas, it is simply clear, beautiful, full of logic
and reason. It is the technical alphabet of profes-
sion, it simply IS and must be HERE and NOW
The students were surely told about design
and fashion for a lot of times, these were topics
approached by my eminent colleagues. However,
as I was more an engineer than an artist, I would
like to introduce several notions regarding the role
of textiles in general and clothing in particular in the
context of industrial evolution and globalization. In
other words, I would like our students to be aware
of the fact that without textiles (or the so-called
light industry), we couldnt have talked about the
transport infrastructure, furnaces and heavy ma-
chinery, (the so-called heavy industry) and why
not, perhaps we could have missed the possibility
to be so familiarized with the Internet, Facebook, or
smart-phones and so on and so forth
I invite you to go back in time, from another
viewpoint, an unusual incursion for the University
of Arts, Bucharest. We refer to evolution and
revolution: the industrial revolution and the revo-
lution in clothing, deriving from the former.
The interaction of art, science and mecha-
nisms can be expressed through the connection
among the artistic, scientic and technical events
ordered chronologically in the system of values:
the understanding of the universe, the control of
natural forces, the automation of industry, the
preventive medicine, the productive agriculture,
the artistic explosion...
The industrial revolution itself does not origi-
nate in the development of the heavy and trans-
port industry but in the textile industry, a repre-
sentative industry in most of the countries during
that period of time.
Oportunitatea de a contribui la formarea
i modelarea viitoarelor generaii de designeri
mi-a fost oferit n urm cu doi ani de ctre
doamna Unda Popp, imediat dup ce am obinut
titlul de Doctor inginer la Facultatea de Antre-
prenoriat, Ingineria i Managementul Afacerilor
din cadrul Universitii Politehnice Bucureti.
Oferta doamnei Unda Popp a venit pe fondul
unor animoziti i antipatii vdite fa de dis-
ciplina pe care cu druire o mprtesc acum
studenilor. Sper c acum, dup cei doi ani de
activitate n cadrul acestui colectiv, am reuit s
trezesc interesul pentru aceast disciplin, care
nu e alctuit dintr-o niruire de formule, ci e
pur i simplu clar, frumoas, plin de logic i
raiune. Este alfabetul tehnic al profesiei, pur i
simplu ESTE i trebuie s e AICI i ACUM.
Studenilor li s-a vorbit cu siguran despre
design, mod i meseriile modei de nenumrate
ori, teme atinse de toi distinii mei colegi. Eu
ind ns mai puin artist i mai mult inginer,
doresc s le introduc acum cteva noiuni des-
pre rolul textilelor n general i al mbrcmintei
n particular, n ceea ce privete evoluia indus-
trial i globalizare. Cu alte cuvinte, a dori ca
studenii notri s contientizeze faptul c fr
textile (sau aa-numita industrie uoar), nu
ar existat infrastructura de transport, furna-
le i maini grele, (aa numita industrie grea)
i de ce nu, poate nu am ajuns s m att
de familiarizai acum cu internetul, Facebook-ul,
smartphone-ul .a.m.d.
V invit s facem o incursiune n trecut,
dintr-un alt punct de vedere, o incusiune ati-
pic pentru UNAB. Vorbim despre evoluie i
revoluie: revoluia industrial i decurgnd din
aceasta revoluia n mbrcminte.
Interaciunea artei, tiinei i tehnicii se
poate exprima prin relaia dintre evenimentele
artistice, tiinice i tehnice ordonate cronolo-
gic n cadrul sistemului de factori: nelegerea
universului, controlul forelor naturii, automati-
zarea industriei, medicina preventiv, agricultu-
ra productiv, explozia artistic.
Revoluia industrial n sine nu i are originea
n dezvoltarea industriei grele i a transporturilor,
ci n cadrul industriei textile, industrie reprezenta-
tiv n majoritatea rilor pentru acea perioad.
225
Prima revoluie industrial: formarea complexului industrial modern
The rst industrial revolution: the development of the modern industrial district
The great inventions, Jennys spinner cre-
ated by Margreaves (1764), Arkwrights spinner
(1769) and Cromptons ne ber spinner (1779),
introduced mechanized equipments and/or oper-
ated through some external energy which is
innitely higher than the one of the living engine
in the spinning process. The revolution in the
textile industry extends and develops in weavings
simultaneously with the invention of Cartwrights
mechanic loom (1785).
This process of development is associated
with the concentration of productions, the transi-
Marile invenii: maina de lat Jenny
a lui Margreaves (1764), maina de lat a lui
Arkwright (1769) i maina de lat re ne a lui
Crompton (1779) au introdus utilaje mecanizate
i/sau acionate prin energie exterioar innit
mai mare dect cea a motorului viu n procesul
de lare. Revoluia n industria textil se extinde
n estorii odat cu inventarea rzboiului de e-
sut mecanic a lui Cartwright (1785).
Acest proces de dezvoltare este nsoit de
concentrarea produciei, de trecerea de la pro-
ducia n sistem meteugresc la cea n sis-
226
tem de fabric, de la producia casnic de tip fe-
udal (sau a breslelor) la producia industrial de
tip capitalist. Folosirea mainii cu abur ca surs
de energie i apariia mainilor textile, n condi-
iile deja existente ale unor ntreprinderi care fa-
bricau maini, au condus la crearea complexului
industrial modern iniial n Anglia i, ulterior, n
ntreaga lume (Rusu, C., Cojocaru, G., 1980).
Concentraia de maini textile n sistemul fa-
bric a fost posibil datorit noii surse de ener-
gie produs de maina cu abur; producia tex-
til putea acum amplasat oriunde, neavnd
nevoie de energia vntului, a apelor curgtoare
sau de energia animal.
Materii prime i accesorii
Raw materials and accessories
tion from the craft production to the one achieved
in factories, from the feudal home production (of
guilds) to the capitalist industrial production. The
usage of steam engines as sources of energy and
the appearance of textile machines, given the al-
ready existing circumstances of some enterprises
producing machines, facilitated the creation of
the modern industrial complex initially in Eng-
land and subsequently in the whole world (Rusu,
C., Cojocaru, G., 1980).
The concentration of textile machinery in
the factory system was possible due to the new
sources of energy produced by the steam engine;
the textile production could be viewed anywhere,
227
Valoricarea cantitilor mari de esturi
textile a nceput s e limitat de modul de
confecionare manual a mbrcmintei. ntr-
adevr, coaserea manual reprezenta un proces
laborios, cu consum mare de timp, care pe de o
parte oferea locuri de munc pentru un numr
mare de persoane, dar pe de alt parte nu putea
organizat i extins la scar industrial cores-
punztoare produciei de material textil.
Inovarea n procesele de coasere, respectiv
nlocuirea muncii manuale cu maini, a aprut
ca o necesitate, iar o serie de inventatori s-au
preocupat de conceperea i realizarea de maini
de cusut care s mreasc productivitatea n fa-
bricaia mbrcmintei.
n domeniul confeciilor textile, n anul 1791
apare primul brevet al unei maini de cusut
(Thomas Saintl) care mecanizeaz aceast ac-
tivitate fr ca invenia s e extins la scar
industrial. Ulterior, austriacul Josef Madersper-
ger a prezentat prima sa main de cusut, a c-
rei construcie a nceput-o n anul 1807. La 9
octombrie 1855 I. M. Singer breveteaz modul
de acionare a mainii de cusut (cu pedal i
curea). n 1855 I. M. Singer a nceput s ex-
porte maina de cusut astfel dezvoltat, iar n
anul 1867 a fost ninat la Glasgow, n Scoia,
prima fabric din afara Statelor Unite ale Ameri-
cii. n anul 1889 a fost lansat maina de cusut
acionat cu motor electric de la Singer.
as the energy of the wind and owing water or
the animal energy were no longer needed.
The capitalisation of large quantities of textile
weavings started to be limited by the methods
applied to make the clothing manually. Indeed,
the manual sewing represented a laborious proc-
ess, consuming a lot of time which, on one hand
provided work places for a high number of people
and, on the other hand, it could not be organized
and extended to the industrial scale correspond-
ing to the production of textile materials.
The innovation in the sewing processes and
the replacement of the manual work with machin-
eries emerged as a necessity, and a series of in-
ventors were preoccupied with the conception and
realization of sewing machines meant to increase
the productivity in the clothing manufacturing.
In the domain of textile ready-make clothes,
in 1791 they launch the rst patent of a sew-
ing machine (Thomas Saintl) which mechanizes
this activity without the industrial extension of
the invention. Subsequently, the Austrian Josef
Madersperger presented his rst sewing machine
whose construction was begun in 1807. In Octo-
ber 9, 1855, I. M. Singer patented the functional-
ity of the sewing machine (provided with a pedal
and a belt). In 1855 I. M. Singer started to export
the sewing machine he had developed, and in
1867 they founded the rst factory from outside
the United States of America at Glasgow, Scot-
Diverse tipuri de tipare, pentru: fusta Clo, fusta clasic, bluz
Diffrent type of patterns, for: Cloche skirt, classic skirt, blouse
228
Procurarea de haine la preuri moderate pen-
tru ntreaga populaie a fost posibil prin dou di-
recii de dezvoltare primar: producia de mas i
distribuia de mas (Kidwell i Christman 1974).
Producia de mas presupune dezvoltarea de
tehnologii de realizare a unei caliti de producie
medie, valabil pentru majoritatea consumato-
rilor de confecii de gata. Distribuia de mas
necesita dezvoltarea de reele de distribuie (ma-
gazine) i inovare n vnzri i promovare.
Revoluia n mbrcminte a avut loc n Statele
Unite ale Americii ca dubl revoluie. Prima a fost
trecerea de la confeciile realizate n cas sau la
comand la confeciile de serie realizate n fabrici.
A doua a fost trecerea de la purtarea de haine ca
semn al clasei sociale i al ocupaiei la purtarea
de haine ale democraiei astfel nct toat lu-
mea poate purta haine la fel. Potrivit Kidwell i
Christman (1974), n secolul al XVIII-lea oricine ar
mers pe jos din Philadelphia la Boston putea
distinge cu uurin oamenii din orae diferite
prin diferenele izbitoare ntre hainele lor.
mbrcmintea era distinctiv prin diferena
n tipul de estur i tipar. America a fost de-
pendent de Anglia, de unde procurau esturi
ne de mtase, ln i bumbac, n timp ce alte
ri au avut acces limitat la materiale, folosind
materiale aspre i de calitate sczut. Croitorii
realizau produse de mbrcminte pentru cei
bogai, iar sracii purtau confecii realizate de
ctre amatori. Secolul al XIX-lea, revoluia in-
dustrial, aa cum am artat mai sus, a adus
maini, fabrici i noi surse de putere. O serie de
invenii mari au mecanizat producerea de re
i esturi.
Aa cum am artat mai sus, pn n anul
1850 se dezvolt i se distribuie maina de cusut,
land. In 1889 they launched the sewing machine
operated by an electric engine from Singer.
The acquisition of clothes at moderate prices
for the whole population was possible by two
means of primary development: the mass pro-
duction and the mass distribution (Kidwell and
Christman 1974). The mass production assumes
a technological development to realize the qual-
ity of an average production, which is valid for
most of the ready-made clothes consumers. The
mass distribution needed the development of
some distribution networks (shops) and innova-
tion in sales and promotion.
The revolution in clothing took place in the
United States of America as a double revolution.
The rst was represented by the transition from
the ready-made clothes realized at home or or-
dered, to the series ready-made clothes realized
in factories. The second was expressed by the
transition from clothes wearing, as a sign of so-
cial class and occupation, to the clothes wearing,
as a sign of democracy so that everybody could
wear their clothes similarly.
According to Kidwell and Christman (1974), in
the 18th century, anyone could have gone on foot
from Philadelphia to Boston, or could have easily dis-
tinguished the people from different towns through
the striking differences among their clothes.
The clothes were distinctive through their tex-
ture and pattern. America was dependent on Eng-
land, the country which delivered them ne silky,
woolen and cotton textures, while other countries
had only a limited access to materials and used
rough low quality materials. The tailors made the
items of clothing for the rich ones and the poor
ones were wearing the ready-made clothes real-
ized by amateurs. The 19th century, the industrial
229
care este foarte rapid adoptat pentru realizarea
cmilor de brbai i a gulerelor, pelerinelor i
crinolinelor pentru femei. Pn la sfritul seco-
lului al XIX-lea maina de croit a devenit uzual;
mainile de clcat s-au transformat n mijloace
de producie eciente. Brbaii au nceput s se
mbrace la fel, similaritate oferit de producia
prin intermediul mainilor i tehnologiei.
Produsele de mbrcminte pentru femei
s-au dezvoltat mult n urma celor pentru br-
bai. n anul 1860 confeciile de serie pentru
femei includeau doar pelerinele i paltoanele,
moda de femei ind deservit n continuare de
ctre croitori. Departamentele de confecii din
magazine erau specializate pe confecii pentru
brbai. La nceputul secolului al XX-lea, a fost
organizat procesul produciei de mas, care a
permis furnizarea de confecii att pentru br-
bai, ct i pentru femei. Astfel s-a nscut indus-
tria de confecii textile, cu un sistem de organi-
zare pentru a realiza confecii de gata pentru
toat lumea (Kidwell and Christman 1974).
Creativitatea n mod este abilitatea de a
produce variante noi, soluii neateptate i cre-
dibile, care rspund problemei, veche de cnd
lumea, a vestimentrii corpului, de a dezvolta
viziuni proprii, proaspete i interesante a aces-
tora, n contextul actual. (Sue Jenkyn Jones
(Saint Martins Colege) Fashion Design, Ce n-
seamn s i creator de mod?)
Specicul industriei modei este dat de per-
manenta schimbare i noutate care trebuie adus
pe pia, cu implicaii directe n special n activi-
tatea de creaie, cercetare, dezvoltare, market-
ing i promovare a produsului, vnzare. Simulta-
neitatea sezoanelor se regsete n toate fazele
de la concepia produselor, la aprovizionarea cu
Simultaneitatea activitilor de management pe grupuri de activiti la momentul martie 2010
The simultaneousness of management activities in activity groups March 2010
PV 2013 TI2012/13 PV 2012 TI 2011/12 PV2011 Colecia Collection
x x Tendine Trends
x x Strategii colecie Collection strategies
x x Concept colecie Collection concept
x Producie/implementare Production/Implementation
x Distribuie Distribution
x Feed-back
revolution, as I mentioned before, brought ma-
chineries, factories and new sources of power. The
production of bers and weavings were mecha-
nized by a series of great inventions.
As I certied above, they developed and
distributed the sewing machine until 1850; it
was rapidly adopted to make shirts and collars,
mantles and crinolines for women. Until the end
of the 19th century the cutting machine became
usual; the irons transformed in efcient means
of production. Men started to dress up similarly,
a similarity offered by production by means of
machineries and technologies.
The womens clothing items developed a lot
compared to the ones worn by men. In 1860, the
series of women ready-made clothes included only
the mantles and coats, and womens fashion was
further achieved by tailors. The departments of
ready-made clothes in the stores were structured in
mens ready-made clothes. At the beginning of the
20th century they organized the mass production
process which permitted the delivery of ready-made
clothes both to men and women. Thus they devel-
oped the textile ready-made industry, provided with
an organizing system to realize ready garments
for everyone (Kidwell and Christman 1974).
In fashion creativity represents the ability to
produce new variants, unexpected and credible
solutions, which respond to the problem, which is
already ancient, to develop the others personal,
innovative and interesting visions, in the present
context. (Sue Jenkyn Jones (Saint Martins Col-
lege) Fashion Design, What does it mean to be a
fashion creator?)
The specicity of fashion industry is given by
the permanent transformation and novelty, which
must be taken to the market, with direct impli-
230
materii prime i accesorii, marketing i vnzare.
Astfel, managementul din domeniul industri-
ei confeciilor textile se confrunt cu o problem
profesional deosebit de complex. El trebuie s
asigure o creaie de produs ritmic, planicare
contra cronometru, producie de calitate i la
termenele planicate, concepte de promovare
care s se detaeze protabil, de concuren.
Managementul n aceast industrie triete
un calendar multiplu, ind permanent conectat
la cel puin trei realiti temporale, cu tot attea
termene specice, aa cum se arat n tabelul
de pe aceast pagin (L. Ifrim, I. S. Avram, D.
M. Micu, 2010)
Aa cum se observ din tabel, cu excepia
activitii de producie unde nu se regsesc mai
multe sezoane simultan, toate celelalte activiti
au n vedere dou sau mai multe sezoane.
Deci UNAB ar trebui s poat pregti specialiti
activi ntr-o zon dinamic. Specialitii care s rs-
pund n acelai timp cerinelor strategice la nivel
european, dar i specic rii noastre.
Viitorul industriei de textile i mbrcmin-
te din Europa va construit pe punctele forte
existente:
Creativitatea n proiectarea i dezvoltarea
de produse;
Inovaia n materiale i procese;
Flexibilitate n producie i managementul
lanului de aprovizionare;
Calitatea produselor i serviciilor.
Platforma tehnologic va bazat pe trei pi-
loni, care n acelai timp reprezint cele trei ele-
Custur de nsilare: a) mod de execuie; b) seciune
Stitch: a) fullment procedure; b) section
Semn ntins: a) mod de execuie; b) seciune
Stretched sign: a) fullment procedure; b) section
cations especially in creative activities, research,
development, marketing and product promotion,
or sales. The simultaneity of seasons can be
found in all stages from the products conception
to the provision with raw materials and accesso-
ries, marketing and sales.
Thus the management in the domain of ready-
made clothing industry copes with a very complex
professional problem. It must ensure a rhythmical
product creation, a plan against time, qualitative
production, proper deadlines, and promotional
concepts to protably detach from their rivalry.
In this industry, the management experiences
a multiple calendar being permanently connected
to at least three temporal realities, provided with
specic terms, like in the table on the next page
(L. Ifrim, I.S. Avram, D.M. Micu, 2010)
As we notice from the table, excepting the
production activity, where one cannot nd more
simultaneous seasons, all the other activities
have two or more seasons in mind.
As a result, the National University of Arts
Bucharest should be able to train active special-
ists in a dynamic zone. The specialists, which are
aimed to properly correspond to strategic de-
mands both at the European level and according
to the characteristics of our country.
The future of the textile and clothing indus-
try in Europe is going to be constructed on the
strong existent points:
Creativity in the product projection and de-
velopment;
Innovation in materials and processes;
231
Semne largi: a) seciune; b) prepararea foilor i tie-
rea semnelor
Large signs: a) section; b) the preparation of sheets
and the carving of signs
Custur n urma acului: a) mod de execuie; b)
seciune
Sewing behind the needle: a) fullment procedure;
b) section
mente eseniale pentru o viziune pe termen lung
care vor exploata aceste puncte forte n acord
cu tendinele sociale i economice generale:
O trecere de la produse de baz ctre pro-
duse specializate din procesele de high-tech;
bre, lamente, esturi i produse nite, cu
proprieti funcionale nalte, cu proprieti int
bazate pe nano-micro biotehnologii, noi nisaje
i tratamente speciale, procese digitale etc;
Crearea i extinderea ntrebuinrii texti-
lelor i n alte sectoare i domenii de aplicare
(sisteme de transport, construcii, aplicaii me-
dicale, electronice de consum);
Sfritul erei de fabricarea n mas a pro-
duselor textile i confeciilor i trecerea spre o
nou er industrial, caracterizat prin persona-
lizare, exibilitate, producie la cerere, mpreun
cu logistica inteligent, distribuie i servicii.
Aceast viziune tridimensional, mprtit
de ctre industrie i comunitatea tiinic, cu-
prinde toate cele 3 elemente cruciale de inovare
industrial:
Materiale, procese i tehnologii;
Produse i piee;
Management.
Pe plan intern, prin Strategia Naional de
Export a Romniei pentru urmtoarea perioad
s-a stabilit c factorii critici de succes care in-
ueneaz competitivitatea la nivel internaional
a sectoarelor de confecii sau nclminte sunt
identicai ca ind: preul, calitatea, designul,
ambalarea, eticheta ecologic.
Viziunea strategic pentru perioada 2005
Flexibility in production and the manage-
ment of the supply chain;
The quality of products and services.
The technological platform will be based on
three attributes, which simultaneously represent
the three essential elements of a long-term vision
approaching these strong points in accordance
with general social and economic trends:
A transition from the main products to-
wards the specialized high-tech processes; bers,
laments, weavings and nite products, with high
functional properties, with target properties based
on nano-micro biotechnologies, new nishings,
and special treatments, digital processes, etc;
The creation and extension of the textiles
usage in other sectors and domains (transport
systems, constructions, medical applications,
electronic devices...);
The end of mass production in the area
of textiles and the transition towards a new in-
dustrial era, characterized by personalization,
exibility, ordered production, besides intelligent
logistics, distribution and services.
This tridimensional vision, shared by indus-
try and the scientic community, comprises the
three essential elements of industrial innovation:
Materials, processes and technologies;
Products and markets;
Management.
Internally, through the Romanian National
Export Strategy regarding the next period of
time, they stated that the critical factors of suc-
cess inuencing the competitiveness of ready-
232
Custuri de acoperire: a) surlat; b) feston; c) punct de butonier
Coating stitches: a) overcasting; b) festoon; c) buttonhole point
2009 i cea pentru 2010 2013 implic trece-
rea gradual de la sistemul lohn la intrarea n
funciile de design i marketing pentru a putea
benecia de oportunitile unei afaceri complete
sub propria marc. Pentru punerea n practic
a acestei viziuni este necesar dezvoltarea de
programe i specializri pentru design i con-
structori de tipare, prin instituii ale Ministerului
Educaiei i Cercetrii, universiti i asociaii
profesionale.
n concluzie, pe lng aducerea pregtirii
designerilor mai aproape de nevoile industriei
i construirea de aliane ntre designeri i orga-
nizaii, tendinele menionate n SNE vor aduce
schimbri puternice pe toate planurile n organi-
zaiile din industria de confecii textile.
Invit deci i pe aceast cale pe studenii notri
s abandoneze percepia i modul de abordare a
disciplinei de Tehnologie i Construcia Tiparului
ca pe ruca cea urt a curiculei.
Aceste discipline i ajut de fapt n dobn-
direa unor abiliti de mod, fr de care nu
vor putea rezista pe piaa concurenial contem-
poran. Prin studiul acestei discipline nu se in-
cearc ngrdirea sau limitarea creativitii. Vor-
bim doar de aspecte practice, logice, raionale,
tehnice i economice. Un produs trebuie s e
conceput cu sim artistic, dar i cu realism, cu
viziune asupra posibilitilor de realizare practi-
c n criterii temporale i de costuri controlate i
controlabile.
Noiunile teoretice astfel dobndite pot
dublate de tehnologia informaiei, att de fa-
miliar tinerei generaii. Programele de Fashion
dedicate i dezvoltate de anumii productori
de soft-uri (a se vedea Lectra: http://www.lec-
tra.com/en/industries/fashion/index.html) pot
completa i compensa noiunile dobndite pe
parcursului cursului de tipar doar n condiiile
made clothes or footwear at the international
level are identied as being the price, quality,
design, wrapping, the ecological label.
The strategic visions for the period between
2005 and 2009 and the one between 2010 and
2013 involve the gradual transition from the lohn
system to the entrance in the design and mar-
keting functions in order to benet from the op-
portunities of a complete business under its own
brand. In order to apply this vision, one needs the
development of programs and specializations for
design and pattern constructors through the insti-
tutions of the Ministry of Education and Research,
universities and professional associations.
All in all, besides the perspectives regarding
the designers training much closer to the industri-
al needs and the construction of alliances between
designers and organizations, the trends mentioned
in the SNE will bring powerful transformations in
each context in the ready-made clothing industry.
I invite our students to stop approaching this
discipline, Technology and the Pattern Construc-
tion, as the ugly little duck of the curriculum.
These disciplines actually support them
to gain some fashion skills without which they
wouldnt resist on the contemporary competitive
market. This subject does not limit the idea of
creativity. We refer only to practical, logical, rea-
sonable, technical and economic aspects. A prod-
uct must be conceived not only artistically, but
also realistically, focusing on practical achieve-
ments in temporal criteria as well as on control-
led and controllable costs.
The theoretical notions acquired like this can
be doubled by the technology of information,
which the young generation is so familiar with.
The Fashion programs developed by certain soft
producers (see Lectra: http://www.lectra.com/
en/industries/fashion/index.html) can complete
233
n care bazele construciei tiparului au fost bine
nelese i nsuite.
Unul din proiectele ambiioase n aceast
direcie ar trebui s e iniierea unui parteneriat
ntre UNAB i Lectra, pentru a permite accesul
facil al studenilor i viitorilor designeri la tehni-
c i tehnologie.
Sunt mndr i onorat s u parte a aces-
tui colectiv didactic n demersul formrii viito-
rilor specialiti care n 1, 2 sau 3 ani vor lupta
pentru a-i gsi locul pe piaa muncii.
Mult succes, studeni i profesori, nou tuturor!
La Muli Ani UNAB!
and compensate the notions acquired during the
pattern course only if the conditions regarding
the basis of the pattern construction were well
understood and appropriated.
One of the ambitious projects in this respect
should be expressed by the initiation of a part-
nership between the National University of Arts,
Bucharest and Lectra, in order to permit the fac-
ile access of students and future designers to the
technical and technological context.
I am proud and honored to belong to this
teaching staff and educate future specialists who
in one, two or three years are going to strive in
order to nd their place on the labor market.
Good luck, students and professors, to all of us!
Happy birthday, the National University of
Arts, Bucharest!
Diferite modele de custuri
Different types of stitches
Formare de custur de blocare la dou re, tip 301
Formation of two thread lockstitck, type 301
234
Bogdan HOJBOT
confereniar universitar doctor
associate professor doctor
235
n programa curicular, studiului bijuteriei
i este dedicat un semestru, timp insucient i
aa pentru interesul care crete constant pen-
tru aceast disciplin. Aceast preocupare se
evideniaz i n alegerea domeniului, ca studiu
Masteral, mai mult, interesul tot mai susinut este
i din partea studenilor altor departamente, dar
mai ales al celor de la Departamentul Mod, con-
cretizat n multiple i diverse colaborri sau prin
alegerea cursului meu opional de iniiere n arta
bijuteriei.
Legtura cu cei de la Mod este i mai -
reasc datorit vechii prietenii care m leag de
profesorii de acolo: Unda Popp i Ioana Avram,
cu care am fost coleg de facultate cu ceva ani n
urm. Interesele artistice comune ne-au fcut s
ne ntlnim mereu, pe plan didactic n proiectele
studenilor de la Licen i Master sau n diferitele
comisii de examinare ale doctoranzilor unde sunt
solicitat s particip.
Astfel, aceste iniiative au nceput s
apar odat cu apropierea unor proiecte de
vestimentaie cu bijuteria sau accesoriul metalic,
dar i invers. n acest sens voi da exemplul ce-
lor doi masteranzi crora le coordonez lucrrile:
Amelia Ghioal, Maria Stnescu.
Amelia Gioal exploreaz scrierile astro-
logilor despre zodiac, studiind simbolurile i
semnicaiile acestora, combinndu-le apoi cu
elemente specice zonei artelor vizuale, obinnd
compoziii spectaculoase. Fiecare zodie este re-
Despre elemente simbolice
folosite n compoziia
podoabelor din metal
In the curriculum, we focus on the study of
jewels for a whole semester, which is not enough
given the constant interest in this discipline. This
preoccupation is also distinguished in the selec-
tion of the domain, as an MA study; moreover,
there is the more and more sustained interest
of the students belonging to the Fashion Depart-
ment materialized in multiple and diverse collab-
orations or by choosing my optional course which
introduces them in the art of jewels.
The relationship with those belonging to the
Fashion Department is even more natural due to
the old friendships connecting me to those pro-
fessors, Unda Popp and Ioana Avram, whose col-
league I used to be some years ago. Our mutual
artistic interests made us encounter a lot, didac-
tically, in our BA or MA students projects, or in
different examination boards examining the PhD
candidates where I am solicited to participate.
Thus these initiatives started to emerge simul-
taneously with some projects associating the cloth-
ing with jewels or metallic accessories and vice
versa. From this viewpoint, I shall illustrate this with
the example of my three MA candidates: Amelia
Ghioala, Maria Stanescu.
Amelia Gioal (Ami): one can obtain spec-
tacular compositions by exploring the astrolo-
gists writings about zodiacs, studying the zodia-
cal signs and their signications and combining
them with specic artistic elements. Each zodiac
sign can be represented through a composition
About the symbolical elements
used in the composition of
metal ornaments
236
prezentat printr-o compoziie format din ele-
mentele i simbolurile sale specice.
Oricine i poate face cunoscut zodia, fr
s o spun, doar prin simpla purtare a unui acce-
soriu care s fac referire la aceasta. Se pot des-
coperi astfel trsturi de caracter ale persoanei
care poart acest accesoriu.
Maria Stnescu cerceteaz cele cinci solide
platonice ce alctuiesc noiunea de geometrie sa-
cr, solide ce reprezint structura morfogenetic
ce se a la baza realitii i a matematicii, ind
i ea plin de nelesuri i de simboluri.
Proiectele au fost selecionate pentru pre-
ocuparea ctre anumite zone de semnicaii i
simboluri pe care ncerc n puine cuvinte s le
dezvolt. Aceste proiecte de studiu de la Metal ct
i de la cursul opional au putut dezvoltate cu
ajutorul profesorilor de la Departamentul Mod.
Lucrrile realizate astfel pot completa inute ves-
timentare i vor spori expresivitatea imaginii pur-
ttorului n faa spectatorului.
Cele mai multe podoabe din metal au ajuns
la noi, venite din negura timpului, cu o anumit
ncrctur simbolic. Podoabele aparinnd eta-
pei de nceput sunt reinute ca ind elemente n-
zestrate cu puteri magice. Au fost descoperite, cu
aproximativ 6000 de ani .H cuprul, aurul, argintul,
plumbul, cositorul sau staniul (ignornd clasicri-
le la care apeleaz tiina). Referitor la semnica-
iile i puterile magice atribuite metalelor, nc din
cele mai vechi timpuri, nu vom zbovi prea mult.
Despre aur, primele nsemnri le avem de la
Herodot care descrie altarele Semiramidei. De
pe atunci aurul nseamn nu numai bogie, ci i
putere, reprezentnd cea mai cutat prad de
rzboi. Persanii nu deineau zcminte din nobi-
lul metal, dar au jefuit bogatul Babilon, Asiria i
Egiptul, tezauriznd o imens cantitate de aur.
Metalul strlucitor nu oxideaz i este asociat n
aproape toate culturile, soarelui. Aurul constituie
simbolul cunoaterii i este sinonim cu nemurirea
i lumina. Considerat metalul regal, nu ruginete
i nu se murdrete. n tradiia greac, aurul se
identic cu fora fecundatoare, cu puterea de a
domina, cu bogia, cu druirea, cu strlucirea.
Egiptenii l caracterizau drept carne a soa-
relui, simbol al invulnerabilitii n faa bolilor, n
faa dumanilor i simbol al celor ce depesc sfe-
formed from its specic elements and symbols.
Anyone can make his zodiac known, without
telling it, only by simply wearing an accesory re-
ferring to it. Thus we can discover the character-
istics of the person wearing this accesory.
Maria Stanescu:- I have chosen to research the
ve solid Platonics comprising the notion of sacred
solid geometry representing the morphogenetic
structure found at the basis of reality and math-
ematics which are full of meanings and symbols.
All these projects were selected for their in-
terest in certain zones of signication and sym-
bols which I try to develop in few words. The
study projects regarding the Metal as well as the
optional course could be developed with the sup-
port of the professors from the Fashion Depart-
ment. The works realized in this way can complete
the attire and will increase the expressiveness of
the one wearing it in front of the spectator.
Most of the metal jewels are very old and
symbolical. The ornaments belonging to the ini-
tial stage are considered as being endowed with
magical power. About 6000 years ago they dis-
covered the copper, gold, silver, lead or tin (ig-
noring the classications approached by science).
Referring to the metals magic signication and
magical powers in very old times, we shall not
spend too much time with.
Regarding gold, we have the rst records
from Herodotus, who describes the altars of
Seramide. Back then gold meant not only wealth
but also power, representing the most hunted tro-
phy. Persians did not own this precious metal but
they reaved the rich Babylon, Assyria and Egypt,
hoarding an immense quantity of gold. The shiny
metal does not oxidize and is associated to sun in
most of the cultures. Gold represents the symbol
of knowledge and is the synonym of light and
immortality. Regarded as a royal metal, it neither
rusts nor stains. In the Greek tradition gold iden-
ties with the force of fertility, the power to domi-
nate, with wealth, devotedness and brightness.
The Egyptians dened it as the esh of sun,
the symbol of invulnerability to illnesses and en-
emies, the symbol of those who go beyond the
terrestrial area as a material deserved only by
persons related to the celestial world. In all reli-
gions, gold is considered a sacred material, that
237
Alexandra Ioni, Set bijeturii, 2013
Alexandra Ioni, Jewelry set, 2013
238
Amelia Ghioal, Set bijuterii Zodiac, 2013
Amelia Ghioal, Zodiac Jewelry set, 2013
239
ra pmntescului, ca material ce se cuvine doar
persoanelor ce in de lumea celest. Aurul este
considerat, n toate religiile, un material sacru i
din aceast pricin mpodobea altare i icoane.
Despre argint avem credina c puric apa,
iar vasele de argint au caliti antiseptice.
Este mult mai des ntlnit n construcia de
podoabe, alturi de aur i platin.
Alt material descoperit de oameni, cuprul sau
arama are nenumrate semnicaii simbolice.
Obiectele de cupru folosite n practicile magice
se consider a avea puteri vindectoare i harul
de a alunga rul. Vasele de cupru sunt uor de
prelucrat, datorit calitii plastice a materialului,
i n toate culturile arama presupune o anumi-
t cldur, o anumit atracie n raport cu omul
(multe vase de gtit sunt din cupru).
Metalele vin nc din preistoria ndeprtat,
cu un enorm prestigiu, i simbolic se identic
deseori cu soarele, cu luna, cu stelele. Acest pre-
stigiu ar putea s ne ajute s nelegem locul pe
care l-au ocupat metalele n istoria creaiei de
podoabe, nc de la nceputuri. Multe din semni-
caiile ce li se atribuiau iniial s-au pierdut, dar
convingerea c metalele au puteri diferite de ce-
lelalte lucruri de pe pmnt persist.
La fel s-a ntmplat i cu pietrele preioase
i semipreioase. Mircea Eliade n Cosmalogie i
alchimie babilonian, editura Vremea, Bucureti,
1937), ne vorbete de piatra lapizlazuli, care juca
un rol important n viaa babilonienilor. Culoarea
albastr a acestei pietre semipreioase era culoa-
rea cerului nstelat, iar barba zeului lunii, Sin-di-
vinitate a nopii nstelate era fcut din ea, ca
de altfel i prul lui Ra, zeul soarelui, care era tot
din lapizlazuli.
Semnicaia pietrelor preioase i semiprei-
oase s-a pstrat mult mai bine.
Pentru Diamantul, mrturiile (ce dateaz din
sec. VI-V .H ) ne vorbesc de aceast piatr care
era cunoscut i folosit n practici magice. Anticii
apreciau att calitile zice: coloraia, (incolor,
cenuiu, albastru, roz, verde, galben, portocaliu,
lila, brun ), transparena, duritatea, ct i propri-
etile ei tmduitoare ( pentru aparatul urinar,
stomac, intestine sau pentru epilepsie.). Diaman-
tul era descrcat dup ecare utilizare n ap
rece i apoi ncrcat la soare.
is why it used to garnish altars and icons.
Regarding silver, we believe that it puries
water and the silver dishes are provided with an-
tiseptic characteristics.
It is more frequently met in the construction
of ornaments, by the side of gold and platinum.
Another material discovered by people, the
copper or brass, has numerous symbolical signi-
cations. The copper objects used in magical prac-
tice are believed to have healing powers, and the
grace to vanish evil. The copper dishes are easy
to process due to the plastic quality of the mate-
rial and in all cultures copper assumes a certain
degree of heat, a certain attraction related to man
(a great deal of kitchenware is made of brass).
Metals derive from a remote pre-history, with
an enormous prestige and, symbolically, they of-
ten identify with the sun, moon and stars. This
prestige might help us to understand the place
and role of metals in the history of creative orna-
ments, from the very beginning. Many of their
initial signications vanished, and the assump-
tion, that metals are provided with powers that
are more different than the other items in the
world, still persists.
This is what also happened to the precious
and semi-precious stones. In Babylonian cosmol-
ogy and alchemy, (Bucharest, Vremea Publishing
House, 1937), Mircea Eliade mentions the lapiz-
lazuli stone, which had an important role in the
life of the Babylonians. The blue colour of this
semi-precious stone is the colour of the starry
sky, and the beard of the moon god, Sin-a divin-
ity of the starry night-was made of it, just like
at the Egyptians the hair of Ra, the god of sun,
what made of lapiz-lazuli too.
The signication of the precious and semi-
precious stones has been preserved much better.
Regarding the diamond, the evidence (dat-
ing in the VI-Vth centuries B. Chr.) refers to this
stone which has been known and used in magical
practice. The ancients appreciated both its physical
qualities such as coloration (colourless, gray, blue,
pink, green, yellow, orange, violet and brown),
transparency, asperity, and its healing properties
(for the urinary tract, stomach, intestines, or for
epilepsy). The diamond was unloaded after its us-
age in cold water and then loaded under the sun.
240
n plan astrologic, era considerat de babilo-
nieni ca protector a celor nscui n zodia leului
i a balanei, de bizantini c-i favoriza pe cei ns-
cui n zodia racului, iar n Evul Mediu european a
existat credina c diamantul i protejeaz pe cei
nscui n berbec.
I se atribuia i calitatea vindectoare de ciu-
ma i de reconciliere a relaiilor ntre soii aai n
prag de desprire, de aici i credina c diaman-
tul din compoziia inelului de logodn pstreaz
linitea i armonia cuplului.
Mai rspndit n natur, rubinul era tiat i
lefuit n oval, i pietrele cele mai mari i valo-
roase purtau nume proprii. Era considerat piatra
vieii, capabil s ntreasc inima i s asigure
vigoare ndelungat. Legenda spune c tezaurul
de rubine era pzit cu strnicie de un dragon
i putea obinut prin eliberarea de puterile lui.
Insula Ceylon era supranumit insula rubinelor.
O varietate de corindon ca i rubinul, sarul
fascineaz prin albastrul su fermector i i se
atribuie puteri n alinarea durerilor i impiedica-
rea disputelor i a certurilor. Considerat piatr
episcopal n Evul Mediu, s-a considerat c sa-
rul aduce proprietarului su putere, onoare i
nemurire. Din punct de vedere astrologic sarul
favorizeaz nativii din sgettor i zodia vrs-
tor (dup bizantini) iar dup astrologii moderni
pe cei din zodia capricorn. Se credea c sarul
purtat te face vesel, odihnit, cucernic, ntrind
suetul pentru linite i armonie, conferind virtui
celeste, inocen, iubire de adevr.
Coroana imperial german are montat n
fa un sar de origine indian. S-ar prea c tot
de la indieni avem convingerea c sarul este bun
n nepturi de pianjen i mucturi de erpi.
Mereu s-a considerat c smaraldul fortic
memoria, ascute mintea i trateaz boli ale sto-
macului, insomnii, boli de cat i de bil, boli
ale inimii i ochilor. Piatra se descarc n ape
curgtoare i se ncarc imediat la soare. Din
convingerea c verdele specic smaraldului este
culoarea speranei, n textele medievale l gsim
menionat ca piatr care confer nelepciune,
nevinovie i iscusin.
Pietrele semipreioase au o ncrctur une-
ori chiar mai bogat dect pietrele preioase.
Din lapizlazuli sau lazurit, piatra de culoarea
Astrologically, the Babylonians considered it
the protector of those born in the Lion and Libra
zodiac, the Byzantines thought it favoured those
born in the Cancer zodiac, and in the European
Middle Ages people said the diamond protected
those born under the sign of Aries.
There was also the assumption that it was
well-known for protecting people from the plague
and for reconciliating the relationships between
the partners aiming to separate hence the belief
that the diamond used in the composition of the
engagement ring preserves the peace and har-
mony of the couple.
More frequently met in nature, the ruby was
cut and polished in oval shapes and the bigger
and more precious stones had their own names.
It was considered the stone of life which was able
to strengthen the heart and assure a sustained
vigor. The legend says that the ruby treasury was
ercely watched by a dragon and it could be ob-
tained by releasing it from its powers. The Ceylon
island was called the island of rubies.
Being a variant of corundum like the ruby,
the saphire fascinates the human look through its
charming blue while it is thought to have pow-
ers to ease the pain and stop disputes and ar-
guments. Considered an episcopal stone in the
Middle Ages, people believed that the saphire
brought power, honour and immortality to its own-
er. Astrologically, the saphire favors the Sagittarius
and Aquarius signs (according to Byzantines) and
those belonging to the Capricorn zodiac sign, ac-
cording to modern astrologers. People believed
that the saphire they wore made them joyful,
recreated and relaxed, devout, strengthening the
soul for peace and harmony, and conferring celes-
tial virtues, innocence, and love of truth.
The German imperial crown is provided with
an Indian saphire. It seems that the Indians
made us believe that the saphire is good against
spider stings and snake bites.
It was always thought that the emerald forti-
es ones memory, sharpens our mind, and cures
stomach aches, insomnias, liver and gall illnesses,
or the sicknesses of heart and eyes. The stone un-
loads in streams and loads immediately under the
sun. Considering the emerald green the colour of
hope in medieval texts, we also nd it as a stone
241
cerului senin, se confecionau de ctre anticii ro-
mani i greci gurine, amulete i sigilii. Protec-
toarea nativilor fecioar, lazuritul se credea c
alin durerile de cap, scade tensiunea arterial,
febra, i nclzit trata inamaiile i umturile.
Printre credincioii buditi, cristalul de stnc
este unul dintre cele 7 lucruri de nepreuit. Con-
siderat piatra rbdrii i a perfeciunii, n Tibet
cristalul de stnc este folosit n tratarea rni-
lor, iar sferele confecionate din el erau folosite
n vrjitorie. Apa but din pahare din cristal de
stnc trateaz durerea de dini. Alung ghinio-
nul, necazul, trateaz depresiile i ntrete ini-
ma, opalul protejeaz nativul din Capricorn.
Att pietrele semipreioase, ct i cele prei-
oase au o ncrctur magic similar i au fost
folosite cu prisosin att n construcia de po-
doabe, ct i n cea de gurine i amulete utili-
zate n diverse ritualuri magice. Folosirea lor ns
s-a fcut mai ales pentru frumuseea lor propriu-
zis, coloraia vie, nuanele ranate, transparen-
a care face lumina s e dirijat cu maxim efect.
Simbolistica prolelor i gurilor se altur
simbolisticii metalelor i pietrelor, n cadrul com-
poziiei plastice a podoabelor. Cele mai multe ti-
puri de prole i guri, ncepnd cu geometrismul
elementar comport o simbolistic cu trimiteri n
sfera credinelor magice sau religioase.
Vom analiza cteva simboluri de prole i
guri ntlnite n cazul podoabelor artistice din
metal.
Mihai Constantinescu, Artefact, 2013
conferring wisdom, innocence and ingenuity.
The semi-precious stones sometimes value
more than the precious stones.
The Roman and Greek ancients used the
lapiz-lazuli or the lazurite, the stone displaying
the colour of the serene sky, to make gurines,
amulets and seals. The protector of Virgin na-
tives, the lazurite was thought to ease head
aches, lower blood pressure or fever, and cure
inammations and swellings, if heated.
Among the Buddhist believers, the rock crystal
is one of the seven inestimable things. Considered
the stone of patience and perfection, in Tibet the
rock crystal is used to cure the wounds, and the
spheres made of this were used in witchcraft. The
water drunk from the rock crystal cures the tooth
ache. It banishes the misfortune and distress, it
cures depression and strengthens the heart, and
the opal protects the Capricorn native.
Both the semi-precious and precious stones
are endowed with a similar magic expression, and
were used abundantly not only in the construc-
tion of ornaments but also in the one of gurines
and amulets used in different magic rituals. How-
ever, they were used especially for their proper
beauty, vivid colours, rened nuances, transpar-
ency, conducting light with the maximum effect.
The symbolism of proles and gures associ-
ates with the symbolism of metals and stones in
the artistic composition of adornments. Most of the
gures and proles, starting with the elementary
Ovidiu Toader, Brar, 2013
Ovidiu Toader, Bracelet, 2013
242
Ovidiu Toader, Set bijuterii, 2013
Ovidiu Toader, Jewelry set, 2013
243
PROFILE I FIGURI CU SEMNIFICAIE AS-
CUNS
Sunt cazuri cnd podoaba dispune de pro-
le sau guri cu o semnicaie ascuns, iar pur-
ttorul ei nu este contient de aceste semni-
caii, i aa se ntmpl cel mai adesea astzi.
Chiar i creatorii de podoabe artistice, avnd
nscrise anumite guri n limitele propriei lor
compoziii, ignor semnicaiile i trimiterile
oculte. Se nscriu n aceast categorie mai ales
elementele primare de ordonare a spaiului:
punctul, linia n diverse conformaii i formule,
prolele i gurile geometrice.
n 1940, a aprut cartea intitulat Das Zei-
chenbuch (Cartea semnelor), de Rudolf Koch,
la care ne vom referi mai departe. Punctul de-
semneaz nceputul, linia orizontal desemneaz
ntinderea, linia vertical desemneaz nlimea,
cercul simplu desemneaz perfeciunea, crucea
desemneaz ntlnirea din mai multe direcii, in-
tersecia. Iar punctul nconjurat de un cerc de-
semneaz centrul. O semnicaie aparte are tri-
unghiul situat cu vrful n sus i cu vrful n jos,
iar suprapunerea a doua triunghiuri echilaterale
d, dup cum se tie, gura, Steaua lui David.
Astzi se acord mai puin importan unor ase-
menea semne.Totusi am ntlnit urmatoarele in-
terpretri, mai puin cunoscute ale desenelor de
pe bijuterii. Dintre prolele geometrice: ptratul
reprezint perfeciunea, unghiul ascuit din care
coboar o dreapt aduce n discuie furca, ace-
eai dreapt al crui vrf se ridic pe vertical
tot dintr-un unghi ascuit se numete clete. Tri-
unghiul cu toate laturile egale semnic spiritul;
trei linii orizontale semnic spiritul sau tempera-
mentul linitit, calm; trei linii verticale semnic
un spirit nalt, evoluat; trei linii ondulate nscrise
pe orizontal indic un temperament sensibil,
mictor; ntretierea a dou oblice opuse cu
o orizontal indic un spirit distrus. O vertical
din care se ridic, n partea superioar, dou linii
oblice opuse simbolizeaz brbatul; un triunghi al
crui vrf superior este continuat cu o linie avnd
n interiorul su un cerc simbolizeaz femeia care
urmeaz s e mam. Acelai triunghi, dar fr
cerc desemneaz n general femeia. Acelai tri-
unghi, nscris pe orizontal cu vrful din care con-
tinu o dreapt spre orizontal, avnd alturi un
geometrism, suggest a kind of symbolism which
refers to the sphere of magic or religious beliefs.
PROFILES AND FIGURES WITH HIDDEN SIG-
NIFICATIONS
There are cases when the ornament is pro-
vided with proles or gures with hidden signi-
cations, and its owner is not aware of these
signications and this is what frequently hap-
pens nowadays. Even the creators of artistic
adornments, with certain gures provided within
the limits of their own compositions, ignore the
occult signications and references. In this cat-
egory we can especially mention the primary ele-
ments used to organize the space: the point, the
line in different conformations and formulas, the
geometric proles and gures.
In 1940, they published Rudolf Kochs book,
Das Zeichenbuch16 (The book of signs), which
we shall further refer to. The point marks the be-
ginning, the horizontal line suggests the extension,
the vertical line expresses the height, the simple
circle highlights perfection, the cross underlines
the meeting of more directions, the intersection.
And the point, which is surrounded by a circle,
designates the centre. The triangle, situated with
its top upwards and downwards, becomes very
special, and the juxtaposition of two equal-sided
triangles would nally highlight the well-known
gure, The Star of David. Nowadays people pay
less attention to such signs. However, I learnt the
following less known interpretations of drawings
which one could see on jewels. Concerning the
geometrical proles: the square represents per-
fection, the sharp angle, releasing a straight line,
analyzes the pitchfork, and the same straight line,
vertically releasing from a sharp angle, is named
pincers. The triangle, with its equal sides, signies
the spirit; three horizontal lines signify the peace-
ful and calm spirit or temperament; three vertical
lines suggest an advanced high spirit; three wavy
lines inscribed horizontally indicate a sensible and
exciting temperament; the turning of two obliques
with a horizontal indicates a destroyed spirit. A
vertical, which in the upper part errects two op-
posed oblique lines, symbolizes the man; a trian-
gle, whose superior top is continued with a line
enclosing a circle, symbolizes the woman who is
going to be a mother. The same triangle, yet with-
244
mic cerc, desemneaz femeia care nate un co-
pil. O vertical din care se desprind, spre captul
inferior dou oblice opuse face trimitere la cineva
care a czut sau care a murit. Triunghiul continu-
at la captul care-l nscrie pe vertical cu o linie
dreapt n jos desemneaz moartea mamei. Toa-
te aceste nsemne nscrise pe bijuterii, tiute doar
de cunosctori, transmit mesaje greu lizibile.
n simbolica cretin, intersecia dintre
dreapta orizontal i o dreapt vertical aduce n
discuie crucea. Reinem o multitudine de formu-
le ale crucii: Crucea greac, crucea latin, crucea
sfntului Petru care a fost rstignit cu capul n
jos, crucea sfntului Andrei crucea n tau sub
form de T, crucea cardinalilor, crucea ortodox
tripl care simbolizeaz credina profund, cru-
cea ortodox tripl care n partea ei inferioar are
braul vertical, n partea inferioar traversat de
o diagonal, formnd un X (neregulat) se nume-
te crucea Sfntului Andrei.
Toate cele enumerate mai sus au fost
enunate n lucrarea lui Rudolf Koch Das Zei-
chenbuch, editura Insel Verlag, Leipzig, 1940.
Lumea astzi reine aceste nsemne gravate
pe bijuterii doar ca simple elemente decorative.
Sunt cazuri n care prolurile i gurile au o
semnicaie mai uor de desluit, iar cteodat
chiar evident.
n perioada postmodern, intervine proble-
ma unor semne cu o semnicaie asupra crora
s-a convenit prin ceva similar unor reguli stabi-
lite sau a unui protocol. De prin anii 90 datea-
z micarea spiritual numit New Age, ce i
propune armarea unui nou tip de spiritualitate
dect cea bazat pe vechile religii mozaic,
cretin, islamic etc. care nu mai mulumesc
generaiile aate acum n formare. Se propune
o spiritualitate situat deasupra vechilor religii,
avnd n centrul ei gura unui Mesia care se
identic cu zodia Vrstorului. n cadrul mi-
crii se opereaz nu att cu discursul verbal
ct mai ales cu simboluri. La baza micrii st
o anumit terapie a simbolurilor. Astfel, triun-
ghiul cu laturile egale semnic micarea New
Age nsi. Se consider c acest triunghi poate
constitui un obiect de nchinare, de venerare n
mai multe feluri, asemntor cu ceea ce este
crucea pentru cretini. Crucea rsturnat, cu
out any circle, generally designates the woman.
The same triangle, inscribed horizontally, with its
top conducting a straight line towards the hori-
zontal, associated with a little circle, designates
the woman who gives birth to a child. A vertical
releasing two opposed obliques towards the infe-
rior side refers to someone who had collapsed or
died. The triangle continued at the side, which in-
scribes it vertically, with a straight line downwards,
designates the mothers death. All these features
marked on the jewels, known only by connoiseurs,
convey hardly readable messages.
In the Christian symbolism, the intersection be-
tween the horizontal and vertical line emphasizes
the cross. We retain a wide range of formulas re-
garding the cross: the Greek cross, the Latin cross,
the cross of Saint Peter, who was crucied upside
down, the cross of Saint Andrew, the cross in the
form of a T, the cardinals cross, the triple Orthodox
cross expressing the profound faith, which at its su-
perior side is provided with a vertical arm, and at its
inferior side it is traversed by a diagonal, forming an
irregular X, named the cross of Saint Andrew.
All these were stated in Rudolf Kochs work
Das Zeichenbuch, Insel Verlag, Leipzig, 1940.
Nowadays people retain these marks on jew-
els only as simple decorative elements.
There are cases when the signication of
proles and gures can be read in a much easier
way, and sometimes it is even obvious.
During the postmodern period of time we no-
tice the problem of some signs whose signica-
tion was approached through something similar
to an established rule or protocol. The spiritual
movement New Age dates in the 90s and it
aims to assert a new type of spirituality which
is more different than the one based on the old
religions Mosaic, Christian, Islamic etc. which
no longer satisfy the developing generations.
They propose a spirituality situated above
the old religions focused on the gure of Mesia
who identies with the Aquarius zodiac sign. In
this context they operate not only with the verbal
discourse but especially with symbols. The move-
ment is supported by a certain therapy of the sym-
bols. Thus, the equal sided triangle suggests the
New Age movement itself. It is considered that
this triangle can represent an object to worship
245
braele frnte, coborte n jos face trimitere la
refuzul oricrei religii, inclusiv a cretinismului i
orientarea spre noua spiritualitate.
SIMBOLISTICA FIGURILOR I CORPURILOR
GEOMETRICE
Simbolistica gurilor geometrice dinuie din
cele mai vechi timpuri. Astfel, ptratul constituie
simbolul geometric care exprim orientare cva-
dripartit a oamenilor n spaiu, organizarea acti-
vitilor vitale n funcie de regiunile bolii cereti
i de pzitorii ei supranaturali. Pe aceeai linie
putem avea n vedere dreptunghiul i triunghiul,
la care, de asemenea, ne-am mai referit, rombul,
pentagonul, de la care avem ca derivat pentagra-
ma, hexagonul, octogonul, i mai ales cercul care
ntr-o prim accepiune simbolizeaz soarele i
luna, ntr-o accepiune ulterioar reprezint roa-
ta ca simbol al micrii. Pentru alchimiti, cercul
simboliza aurul, iar n budism simbolizeaz ilu-
minarea, desvrirea omului n uniune cu prin-
cipiul primordial. El include deopotriv binele i
rul, contrariile, ideile antagonice i care se com-
pleteaz denumite n tradiia chinez Yin i Yang.
SIMBOLISTICA NUMERELOR
Mai veche este simbolica numerelor i litere-
lor. Cifra 1, n oricare dintre alfabetele cunoscute,
desemneaz nu doar o entitate la care poate
adugat ceva sau poate sczut, tinznd spre
zero, ci desemneaz i creaia dumnezeiasc, n-
ceputurile i originea energiei, impulsul primar. 2,
reprezint desvrirea unitii vzut ca ntreg
sau ca atragere a contrariilor, e i simbol al pere-
chii, al nelegerii care permite complementarita-
tea. Cifra 3, cu ajutorul cunotinelor elementare
de religie cretin, tim c e simbol al trinitii.
Exist o tiin derivat dintr-o component a
matematicii numerologia care se numete
numerologia simbolic (n romnete a fost car-
tea lui Gladys Lobos Numerologia Magic). Nu-
merele pot desemna centrul, ordinea, echilibrul,
proporiile n funcie de prolul suprafeei p-
trat, dreptunghi, triunghi etc.
Semnicaia unei litere nscrise n compozia
podoabei se cere atent desluit i presupune o
operaiune anevoioas. La egipteni ndeosebi,
ceea ce noi numim cruce egiptean (ANKH) con-
stituia o hieroglif cu rezonane sacre.
Dup apariia cretinismului, inscripii (n lati-
something in more ways, similar to what the cross
represents for the Christians. The inverted cross,
with broken and descending arms, refers to the
refusal of any religion, including Christianity and
the orientation towards the new spirituality.
THE SYMBOLISM OF GEOMETRIC FIGURES
AND STRUCTURES
The symbolism of geometric gures has been
known forever. Thus the square represents the
geometric symbol expressing peoples quadri-
partite orientation in the space, the organization
of vital activities according to the regions of the
sky and its supernatural protectors. In the same
context we can consider the rectangle and the
triangle we had already referred to, the rhombus
and pentagon producing the pentagram, hexa-
gon, octagon and especially the circle, which at
rst sight symbolizes the sun and the moon and,
from another viewpoint, it represents the wheel
as a symbol of motion. For alchemists, the circle
symbolized the gold and in Buddhism it symbol-
ized illumination, mans perfection in his union
with the primordial principle. It includes both the
good and the evil, the oppositions and antagonic
ideas completing each other and named Yin and
Yang in the Chinese symbolism.
THE NUMBERS SYMBOLISM
The symbolism of numbers and letters is an-
cient. In any alphabet, number 1 suggests not
only an entity, which can be increased or de-
creased, tending towards zero, it also expresses
the divine creation, the beginnings and origin
of energy, the primary impulse. Number 2 rep-
resents the perfecting unit seen as a whole or
attraction of opposites, it is also the symbol of
pairs and comprehension allowing complementa-
rity. Number 3 is known to be the symbol of trin-
ity, given the elementary knowledge of Christian
religion. There is a science derived from a com-
ponent of mathematics numerology named
symbolical numerology. (In Romanian it was the
book of Gladys Lobos Magic Numerology17).
Numbers can express the centre, order, balance
and proportions according to the prole of the
surface square, rectangle, triangle etc.
The signication of a letter in the decora-
tions composition must be carefully decoded and
presumes a hard operation. In the case of Egyp-
246
Claudiu Dosaru (1,2), Mihai Constantinescu (3-6), Inele, 2013
Claudiu Dosaru (1,2), Mihai Constantinescu (3-6), Rings, 2013
1 2
3
5
4
6
247
n) de tipul INRI, litere care n asociaie cu diver-
se oblici i verticale dau monograma lui Cristos,
trebuie avute n vedere la fel.
Specialitii n cabalistic exceleaz n eviden-
ierea unor astfel de semnicaii.
n lumea laic, ntlnim nc din antichitatea
greco-roman, prezena literelor, constituind ini-
iala numelui mpratului ori a altui demnitar, pe
inelele cu funcie de sigiliu. Mai trziu, n Evul
Mediu, perioada Renaterii i pn n zilele noas-
tre, includerea unei litere ori a unui joc de litere
n compoziia unei podoabe poate indica propri-
etarul iniial sau comanditarul acestei bijuterii,
poate arta chiar apartenena la o anumit aso-
ciaie mai mult sau mai puin elitist, iar astzi la
un anumit club.
Astzi, cel puin, prezena literelor n com-
poziia podoabelor indic sfera de apartenen a
obiectului prin raportare la o anumit persoan
de rang nalt. Aproape toate casele regale, recurg
la sistemul monogramelor (combinaii de litere ce
fac trimitere la numele proprietarului de obiecte,
la numele prestatorului de servicii .a.m.d.).
SIMBOLISTICA PROFILELOR FIGURATIVE
FITOMORFE CRENGI (SAU RAMURI)
Simbolurile tomorfe extrem de numeroase
le putem ntlni nc din preistorie atunci cnd
e vorba de gurarea unor crengi (sau ramuri),
frunze sau a unor ori. Eliphas Levi Cheia mari-
lor mistere, editura Antet, Bucureti, 1994.
Semnicaiile crengii, ntlnit ca gur i n
compoziia unor podoabe, poate constitui un me-
saj de prietenie, de tandree, de dragoste, dar i
de pace, iar frunzele fac referire la: noroc, izbn-
d, succes. Avem astfel frunzele de ferig, frun-
za de trifoi, frunzele de lotus, frunzele de stejar,
frunzele de acant, frunzele de laur etc.
Alturi de frunze avem orile: margaretele,
orile de cire, orile de mr, orile de crin, tran-
darul .a.m.d. i fructele.
Urmeaz apoi simbolistica zoomorf: insecte,
ine subacvatice, reptile, psri, mamifere.
Dintre insecte, scarabeul este consacrat de
credinele egiptenilor, libelula este iari frecvent
ntlnit n construcia podoabelor, mai ales n
perioada anilor 1900, a se vedea bijuteriile La-
lique, buburuza cea prevestitoare de bine i pur-
ttoare de noroc, albina promitoare de fericire
tians, especially what we dene as an Egyptian
cross (ANKH) represented a hieroglyph provided
with sacred resonances.
After the emergence of Christianity, there
were INRI type inscriptions (in Latin) which, if
associated with different obliques and verticals,
outlined the monogram of Christ.
Specialists in the Kabbalistic domain excel in
the prominence of such signications.
In the secular world, already in the Greek-
Roman antiquity, we notice the presence of let-
ters constituting the initial of the emperors name
or another dignitarys, on the rings used as seals.
Later, in the Middle Ages, the period of Renais-
sance up to our days, the insertion of a letter or
a game of letters in the composition of a jewel
can indicate the initial owner or the comanditary
of this jewel, it can even show the afliation to a
certain association, which is more or less elitist,
and nowadays to a certain club.
Today, at least, the presence of letters in the
decorations composition indicates the objects
sphere of afliation through its connection to a
certain senior person. Almost all the royal houses
approach the system of monograms (letter com-
binations referring to the name of the objects
owner, the name of the service provider etc.).
THE SYMBOLISM OF PHYTOMORPHOUS
FIGURATIVE PROFILES BRANCHES
Referring to the family of phytomorphous
symbols, which are extremely numerous, we can
already meet them in pre-history when it is about
the guration of some branches, leaves or ow-
ers. Eliphas Levi The key of great magic, Bu-
charest: Antet, 1994.
The signications of branches, as a gure, or
in the composition of some decorations, can rep-
resent a message of friendship, tenderness, love,
as well as peace, and the leaves refer to luck, tri-
umph and success. Thus we have the fern leaves,
the clover leaves, the lotus leaves, the oak leaves,
the acanthus leaves and the laurel leaves.
Besides leaves we have owers : daisies, cherry
owers, apple owers, lilies, roses and the fruits.
Then one can refer to the zoomorphic sym-
bolism: insects, underwater beings, reptiles, birds
and mammals.
Regarding the insects, the scarabeus is con-
248
i bunstare, dar i pianjenul ori scorpionul.
Se altur lumea inelor subacvatice; bro-
tacul, purttor de noroc, estoasa semnicnd
sntate i via ndelungat, scoica semnicnd
ntotdeauna comoara care se ascunde.
Din lumea reptilelor reinem: salamandra,
oprla, arpele, dragonul. n funcie de civilizaie
i spaiile culturale, semnicaiile unor aseme-
nea guri simbolice variaz. La europeni arpele
simbolizeaz ispita dar, i inteligena, dragonul
simbolizeaz spiritul negativ i distrugtor ntru-
chipat n balaur, la asiatici, dimpotriv, dragonul,
sinonimul balaurului european, are semnicaie
pozitiv.
Foarte veche e simbolistica psrilor. Pas-
rea phoenix, la egipteni, simbolizeaz ntotdeau-
na renaterea. Ibis simbolizeaz delitatea i
respectarea jurmntului, lebda simbolizeaz
graia, acvila aspiraia spre nalt, ndrzneal i
curaj, bufnia simbolizeaz inteligena.
Grupul mamiferelor mai des redate n alctu-
irea bijuteriilor: cprioara, apul, berbecul, calul,
zimbrul, leul, tigrul, leopardul, ursul, pisica sau
rsul. n toate cazurile simbolica face trimitere
la unele caliti sau trsturi caracteristice ani-
malului i care pot transferate i omului. Exis-
t unele dicionare de simboluri cu aplicaii mai
mult n sfera gracii, prezentnd modul cum este
prolat gura pe o suprafa sau ntr-un anumit
context cultural.
n cazul simbolicii gurative antropomorfe,
problematica pare mai complicat, innd seama
mai ales, de diversitatea cazurilor ntlnite. Cnd
e vorba de anumite zeiti simbolul reprezentat
pare lesne de neles, avnd n vedere atributele
zeitii respective. De asemenea, cnd e vorba
de monede reprezentnd chipul unui suveran,
integrate n compozia unei podoabe, trimiteri-
le pe care le face simbolul sunt limpezi. Chiar i
n raport cu religiile monoteiste diverse, putem
distinge cazuri n care descifrarea simbolului nu
ridic prea multe probleme.
Preocuprile n acest sens continu.
Dincolo de toate aceste simboluri bine anali-
zate de diveri specialiti, interesul meu este s
ndrum studenii s realizeze bijuterii cu forme i
acorduri cromatice atent studiate, care s trans-
mit emoii i sentimente delicate precum orice
nected to the faith of Egyptians, the dragon-y is
frequently met in the construction of decorations,
especially in the 1900s, see the Lalique jewels,
the lady bird, which announces the good and your
luck, the bee, which promises you happiness and
well-being, or the spider and the scorpio.
The world of the underwater beings is com-
pleted with the frog, bringing you luck, the tor-
toise, expressing health and a long life, the shell,
always emphasizing the hiding treasure.
From the world of reptiles we retain the sala-
mander, lizard, snake and the dragon. According
to civilization and ample cultural apaces, the sig-
nications of such symbolical gures vary. In the
European context the snake symbolizes tempta-
tion and intelligence, the dragon symbolizes the
negative and destroying spirit, and for the Asians
the dragon means something positive.
The birds symbolism is also very old. In
Egypt the Phoenix bird always symbolized rebirth
and renewal. Ibis used to symbolize delity and
the obediance of the oath, the swan symbolizes
grace, the eagle the high aspiration, boldness
and courage, the owl symbolizes intelligence.
The group of mammals which is more fre-
quently used in the composition of jewels: the
deer, the goat, the ram, the horse, the aurochs...
and the lion, the tiger, the leopard, the bear, the
cat or the lynx... in all these cases the symbolism
refers to the characteristic qualities or features of
the animal which can be transferred to man. There
are some dictionaries of symbols with graphic ap-
plications presenting the way the gure is proled
on a surface or in a certain cultural context.
In the anthropomorphous gurative symbol-
ism the topic seems more complicated, consider-
ing especially the diversity of the cases. When it
is about deities, the represented symbol seems
easy to be understood given the attributes of that
deity. Moreover, it is about coins representing the
face of a sovereign, integrated in the composition
of a decoration, while the symbols references are
clear. Even in the connection with different mono-
theist religions, we can distinguish cases when the
symbols decoding does not represent a problem.
This kind of preoccupations continue.
Beyond all these symbols, which are well
analysed by different specialists, my interest is
249
to orient my students to make jewels in carefully
studied forms and chromatic harmonies, meant
to express delicate emotions and feelings like any
work of art. Especially as the jewels, like cloth-
ing itself, always join their carrier, helping him to
convey concrete messages, related to his person-
ality, to all the others around.
oper de art. Cu att mai mult cu ct podoa-
bele, ca i vemintele, nsoesc mereu purttorul
lor, ajutndu-l s transmit celor din jur mesaje
ct mai coerente, n acord cu personalitatea sa.
Bogdan Hojbot, Schie pentru pandantiv i brar, 2014
Bogdan Hojbot, Sketches for pandantiv and bracelet, 2014
Rzvan Botezatu, Brar, forjare cu elemente de oel
de Damasc, 2013
Rzvan Botezatu, Bracelet, forge with elements of
Damascus steeel, 2013
Mihai Constantinescu, Brar, 2013
Mihai Constantinescu, Bracelet, 2013
250
Adina NANU
cadru didactic UNAB n perioada 1951 1985
cadru didactic UNATC din 1990
UNAB professor between 1971 and 1986
professor at the UNATC since 1990
251
Dac ar s aleg un simbol care s rezu-
me toat cariera mea didactic, de cercetare i
de creaie (aproape 40 de ani la UNA i ali 20
la UNATC), a alege o plrie. Pare o frivolitate
dar a putea umple toat pagina cu nepreuitele
ei funcii, de la comunicarea social (rang, avere,
sex, vrst, cultur etc.) la valoarea economic (de
marf, depinznd de materiale, mod, marketing,
etc.), la cea estetic (ncununnd compoziia de
ansamblu a imaginii umane, principala art de-
corativ vizual, de care nimeni nu se poate lip-
si). Ce poart cineva pe cap l reprezint nainte
de orice, spune cine este sau drept cine vrea s
e luat, dac are imaginaie, gust sau umor. Nu
ne putem aminti de Napoleon fr bicorn sau de
Mihai Viteazul fr cum.
Pentru mine totul a pornit de la plriile pe
care mama mea le pstra n cutii rotunde, de pe
vremuri, i cu care ne jucam uneori. Cnd am
nceput s predau Istoria Costumului la Sceno-
grae, apoi i la Mod, le-am scos la iveal ca pe
un nepreuit material didactic. Pentru ca studenii
s neleag c o plrie este numai un element
dintr-o compoziie artistic, la fel de expresiv i
de unitar ca i un tablou sau o statuie, am n-
cercat s reconstitui, pornind de la ecare din p-
lriile vechi, cte un ansamblu cu haine, panto
i accesorii, din ce aveam prin cas i din ce am
gsit pe la rude i prieteni. Aa s-a nscut colec-
ia i prima ei expoziie Un secol de costum ca
i primul lm de scurtmetraj, cu colaborarea UNA
Elogiul Plriei
If I had to choose a symbol to summarize all
my research and didactic and creative activity
(almost 40 years spent at the National University
of Arts, Bucharest and other 20 years at the UN-
ATC), I would choose a hat. It might seem shallow
however I would ll all the page with its precious
functions, from social communication (rank, for-
tune, gender, age, culture, etc.) to the economic
value (as some goods, depending on materials,
fashion, marketing, etc.) or the esthetic one (en-
wreathing the general composition of the human
image, the main visual decorative art, which no-
body can be deprived of). What somebody wears
on its head surely represents him, tells who he is
or who he pretends to be, if he is endowed with
imagination, preferences or humour. We cant re-
member Napoleon without his bicornous outt or
Mihai Viteazul without his cap.
In my case, everything started from the hats
kept by my mother in round old boxes, which
once we used to play with. When I began to teach
the History of the Costume at the Departments
of Scenography or Fashion, I took them out as if
they represented some priceless didactic materi-
al. For the students to understand that a hat was
only an element in an artistic composition, which
was as expressive and unitary as a painting or
statue, I tried to restore, starting from each of
the old hats, an ensemble of clothes, shoes and
accessories, found in my house or at my relatives
and friends. This is the way we created the col-
The hats eulogy
252
Adina Nanu la primirea diplomei Doctor Honoris Causa, UNATC, 2014. mpreun cu: Ana Stanciu (1), Pupi Filitti (2),
Laureniu Damian (3)
Adina Nanu when getting the Doctor Honoris Causa Diploma, UNATC, 2014. Together with: Ana Stanciu (1), Pupi
Filitti (2), Laureniu Damian (3)
1
2
3
253
lection and its rst exhibition A century of the
costume and the rst short lm, in partnership
with the UNA and UNATC.
Since then we have organized 15 exhibitions
(from Venice we brought a tricorn), and weve
got more than 500 hats due to our friends and
the friends of our friends, who always happened
to nd a bowler, a top hat or a beret only as a
memory, as they had no more space for them in
their home, but which they could not throw away
either, like their children do...
At the moment my former students are my
colleagues or friends and I am very happy to see
the way the Fashion Department extends and de-
velops. Many of my dreams, which were not pos-
sible before 1989, became true in the meantime.
From 4 students a year, as it used to be when
my daughter started to attend the faculty classes,
now there are up to 100, and the selection is done
naturally, gradually. We also managed to make all
students learn from all our professors and they
took advantage of all their different equipment
and specializations. Thus the noviciate with a sin-
gle master, the danger of limitation and the imita-
tion of a single artistic personality were avoided.
At school they were attracted by valuable
specialists and their human quality derived from
their enthusiasm, with the minimum of material
benets. Abreast of the times, they travel abroad
(another dream, which my generation could not
even dream of), they are aware of everything
happening all over the world, they do not have to
focus on elementary experience on their own (as
we discovered what could be done with a square
or circle, or how can you provide a sample with
another form if you cut it).
After World War II I experienced the diap-
pearance of the hat which had become politi-
cally suspect, as it was considered a sign of the
bourgeois landlords; the workers were instigated
against them in the class conict and I sorrowfully
saw how it was replaced with the headkerchief
and the cap.
For many years I have been waiting for the
return of the hat to its well-deserved place and
rank, which is going to inevitably happen simul-
taneously with the development of all young peo-
ples artistic education. My explanation regarding
i UNATC. De atunci am fcut 15 expoziii (de la
Veneia am adus un tricorn), iar numrul plri-
ilor a trecut de mult de 500, datorit prietenilor
notri i prietenilor prietenilor, care gsesc mereu
cte un melon, un joben sau o beret pstrate
doar de amintire, pentru care nu mai au loc n
cas dar pe care nici nu se ndur s le arunce,
aa cum arunc toi copiii lor.
Acum, fotii mei studeni mi sunt colegi sau
prieteni i m bucur nespus s vd cum crete
i norete departamentul Mod din UNA. Multe
dintre visurile mele, imposibile nainte de 1989,
s-au mplinit ntre timp. De la 4 studeni ntr-un
an, cum erau pe vremea cnd ica mea a nce-
put facultatea, s-a ajuns pn la 50, iar selecia
se face resc, pe parcurs. S-a realizat i trecerea
tuturor studenilor pe la toi profesorii seciilor,
beneciind de dotrile i specializrile lor diferi-
te. Astfel se evit ucenicia la un singur maestru,
primejdia limitrii, dar i a imitrii unei singure
personaliti artistice. n coal au fost atrai
specialiti de valoare, iar calitatea lor uman reie-
se din entuziasmul cu care lucreaz, cu benecii
materiale minime. n pas cu vremea, ei circul n
strintate (alt vis irealizabil al generaiei mele),
sunt la curent cu ce se ntmpl pe ntreg pmn-
tul, nu trebuie s fac singuri experiene elemen-
tare (cum descopeream noi ce se poate face cu
un ptrat sau un cerc i cum poi s dai unui tipar
alt form dac i dai o tietur).
Am trit n anii de dup al doilea rzboi mondial
dispariia plriei, devenit suspect politic, soco-
tit semn al burghezo-moierimii, mpotriva creia
era aat proletariatul la lupta de clas, i am vzut
cu jale cum era nlocuit cu basmaua i apca.
Atept de muli ani revenirea plriei la locul
i rangul care i se cuvin, ceea ce sa va ntmpla
inevitabil odat cu creterea nivelului educaiei
artistice a tuturor tinerilor. mi explic de ce mer-
ge att de ncet prin faptul c democratizarea a
asigurat deocamdat doar instrucia de baz de
tip tiinic, prin nvmntul general obligato-
riu. Doar unele zone favorizate, pentru care arta
a ajuns mod de via, i dau importana cuvenit,
ca Italia sau Japonia. La noi, cei care hotrsc
orientarea studiilor nu au avut iniierea necesa-
r pentru a aprecia importana tririi artistice a
imaginii vizuale ca i a muzicii, a cror amploare
254
ar trebui s egaleze n coal orele de literatur
i poezie. Sper cu ncredere ca mcar strnepoii
mei s apuce s se bucure din plin de arta pl-
riei, care va nori n viitor fr ndoial, alturi
de celelalte arte. Deocamdat i pentru ei, ca i
pentru mine n copilrie, plria e obiect de joa-
c, mijloc de stimulare a fanteziei. Acum, pentru
marele public, se constat numai c Moda e la
mod i asta e bine, e un prim pas.
Ultima mea plrie, pe care am primit-o n
dar de la Conducerea UNATC, reprezint o evo-
care a unora din cele mai vechi tradiii universi-
tare europene, instituite acum o mie de ani la
Oxford, i face parte din costumul de Doctor Ho-
noris Causa. De abia a doua zi dup ceremonia
de nvestitur, mi-am dat seama c ptratul care
ncununeaz boneta a fost probabil la origine o car-
te inut n echilibru pe vrful capului, iar nurul cu
pompon era semnul marcnd pagina citit. Dac
ne amintim c pn n secolul al XV-lea, cnd s-a
rspndit tiparul, crile erau scrise i ilustrate de
mn, unicate scumpe miglite prin mnstiri, p-
tratul de carton acoperit cu pnz ncepe s emane
o aur magic, ncrcat de nelepciunea i talentul
multor generaii de nvai. Rmn recunosctoare
inimoilor artiti de la UNATC pentru c m-au primit
n mijlocul lor. i iremediabil optimist, m vd ca
o mic trstur de unire ntre cele dou instituii
artistice, a cror colaborare o visam pe vremuri i
pe care Departamentul Mod ncepe s o realizeze
acum.
Jos plria!
this issue consists in the fact that, for the time
being, democracy had ensured only the basic sci-
entic instruction by means of the compulsory
general education. There are only some privileged
areas, where art has become a lifestyle and got its
well-deserved importance, such as Italy or Japan.
In our country, those who decide the orientation
of studies did not share the initiation needed to
appreciate the importance of the artistic experi-
ence in the contexts of visual image and music,
whose amplitude should equal the literature and
poetry classes at school. I am hopeful that at least
my great-grandsons will have the chance to highly
enjoy the art of hats, which is certainly going to
develop in the future, together with other arts. For
the time being, not only for them but also for my-
self in my childhood, the hat represents a playing
object and a method to stimulate fantasy. Now,
for the great public, it is noticed that Fashion is in
fashion and that is good, it is a rst step.
My last hat, which I have got as a present
from the UNATC management board, represents
an evocation of some old European academic
traditions, initiated a thousand of years ago at
Oxford, and is related to the Doctor Honoris
Causa costume. It was only the next day after
the investiture ceremony when I realized that the
square enwreathing the cap might have originally
been a book kept in balance on ones head and
the string provided with a pompon was the sign
marking the already read page. If we remember
that until the 15th century, when they extended
the printing, the books were written and illustrated
manually, expensive unique items were carefully
made in monasteries, the carton square was cov-
ered with canvas, one could notice a magic aura
charged with the wisdom and talent of many gen-
erations of scholars. I am grateful to our passion-
ate artists from the UNATC for having accepted
me. And irremediably optimistic, I see myself as
a slight connection between the two artistic insti-
tutions, whose partnership I was expecting once,
which the Fashion Department is on the verge to
accomplish.
Hats off!
255
Adina Nanu mpreun cu Maria i Miron Oprescu la primirea diplomei Doctor Honoris Causa, UNATC, 2014
Adina Nanu together with Maria and Miron Oprescu when getting the Doctor Honoris Causa Diploma, UNATC, 2014
256
Leontina MAILATESCU
iniiatoarea Seciei de Creaie Vestimentar
the initiator of the Creative Clothing Department
257
M consider un om mplinit soarta mi-a ofe-
rit o via cu totul deosebit, mie, al optulea copil
din familia Mailatescu, nscut ntr-un sat Ce-
tatea de Balt, de lng Blaj.
Astzi, la 81 de ani, m simt onorat i re-
compensat suetete de faptul c sunt nc pre-
zent n memoria colegilor mai tineri de la Depar-
tamentul Mod, care m-au invitat s scriu cteva
rnduri despre anii de nceput ai Seciei CREAIE
VESTIMENTAR. Am funcionat ca profesor co-
ordonator nc de la ninare, n 1971. n anii
aceia coala de nvmnt specializat de art se
numea Institutul de Arte Plastice Nicolae Grigo-
rescu Bucureti, iar creaia vestimentar era o
specializare n cadrul Seciei Arte Textile, alturi
de Imprimeuri i Tapiserie.
Am descoperit vocaia artistic nc de pe
bncile colii Medii de Arte Plastice de la Cluj,
unde am fost ncurajat s continui studiile la fa-
cultate, la Bucureti capitala rii dat ind
faptul c oportunitatea de a participa la viaa
cultural i artistic ar mai deschis. Am fost
admis cu not mare (alturi de ali colegi de la
Cluj, Vladimir etran, Viorel Mrginean i Ovidiu
Patina), iar dup 6 ani, la nalul studiilor, am
fost reinui n cadrul Institutului ca asisteni uni-
versitari, urmndu-ne apoi, ecare, cariera artis-
tic i profesional.
Destinul meu m-a condus ctre Secia Tex-
tile, pentru a m ocupa de tehnici i tehnologii
specice (att artistice, ct i industriale). Acest
nceputurile seciei
Creaie Vestimentar 1971
I consider myself an accomplished man
fate has endowed me with a very special life, me,
the eighth child of the Mailatescu family, who was
born in a village Cetatea de Balt, next to Blaj.
Today, at the age of 81, I feel honored and
spiritually rewarded by the fact that I am still
present in the memory of my younger colleagues
at the Fashion who asked me to write several lines
about the beginnings of the Fashion Department.
I had worked as a coordinating professor
from the very beginning, since 1971. Back then,
the specialized art school was named The Insti-
tute of Fine Arts Nicolae Grigorescu Bucharest,
and fashion design represented a specialization
of the Textile Art Department together with the
Department of Prints and Tapestry.
I had already discovered my artistic talent
while attending the Secondary Art School from
Cluj, where I was encouraged to continue my
upper studies at Bucharest the capital of the
country considering that I could have more op-
portunities to participate in the cultural and artis-
tic events. I was admitted with a high mark, (to-
gether with other colleagues from Cluj, Vladimir
etran, Viorel Mrginean and Ovidiu Patina), and
6 years later, at the end of faculty time, we were
selected to become University tutors, while also
continuing our artistic and professional career.
My fate conducted me towards the Textiles
Department and made me approach specic
techniques and technologies (both artistic and
The beginnings of the
Fashion Design Department 1971
258
lucru a cntrit foarte greu civa ani mai trziu,
la nominalizarea i la acceptarea mea ca organi-
zator al noii secii, cnd s-a pus problema nin-
rii specializrii Creaie Vestimentar.
Rectorul Institutului de Arte Plastice de la
acea vreme, profesorul universitar Gheorghe
Achiei, a considerat foarte bine-venit o atare
specializare, iar dintre colegele mele de la vre-
mea aceea eu am fost socotit potrivit pentru
aceast misiune.
Este cazul s explic faptul c, pentru n-
inarea seciei, n anul 1970, Ministerul nv-
mntului de la acea epoc a propus o burs de
studiu la Universitt fr angewandte Kunst Wien
(titulatura actual). A fost anul n care coala
superioar de Arte Aplicate Kunstgewerbeschu-
le a devenit universitate. Menionez notorietatea
universitii, care printre profesorii i absolven-
ii si numr nume notorii, cum ar : Gustav
Klimt, Oskar Kokoschka, Vivienne Westwood,
Karl Lagerfeld, Jil Sander, Pipilotti Rist, Frano-
is Valentiny, Hugo Markl, Gertrude Hchssmann
sau Stefan Sagmeister.
Am socotit i socot i acum o mare onoare
pentru mine oportunitatea care mi-a fost oferit,
precum i faptul c am avut ocazia s studiez
la prima universitate european de arte aplica-
te, chiar i pentru doar cteva luni, cu profesori
renumii, avnd ca tutore pe doamna Gertrude
Hchssmann, personalitate din avangarda modei
vieneze. Am preluat de acolo modelul de studiu,
disciplinele strict necesare, precum i elemente
de exprimare artistic, putnd astfel construi o
curicul universitar aplicat condiiilor din Ro-
mnia acelor vremuri.
M fascina ideea de a crea haine care s rs-
pund ct mai multor ocazii, s satisfac ct mai
multe gusturi, s poat purtate i s convin
ct mai multor forme corporale sau vrste. Eram
perseverent i progresam odat cu studenii, pe
care m strduiam s i formez n conformitate
cu cele nvate la Viena. Nu era uor, deoarece
creaia specic modei era i este diferit de cea
artistic, iar acest lucru era foarte greu de neles
i acceptat de ctre colegi i studeni.
Ca profesor, eram obligat s cunosc ndea-
proape tehnicile de tipar i confecionare, s ofer
soluii de creaie, de redare n desen i s co-
industrial). This fact meant a lot some years later,
when I was appointed the organizer of the new
department, when they founded the Fashion
Design specialization.
The rector of the Art Institute during that pe-
riod of time, professor Gheorghe Achiei, had wel-
come this kind of specialization and, from all my
colleagues, I was considered the most appropriate
one to develop this mission.
It is the time to explain the fact that then, in
order to found the department in 1970, the Min-
istry of Education proposed a scholarship at Uni-
versitt fr angewandte Kunst Wien (the actual
entitling). It was the year when the Upper School
of Applied Arts, Kunstgewerbeschule, became a
university. I mention here the notoriety of the Uni-
versity, famous for its professors and graduates
such as: Gustav Klimt, Oskar Kokoschka, Vivienne
Westwood, Karl Lagerfeld, Jil Sander, Pipilotti Rist,
Franois Valentiny, Hugo Markl, Gertrude Hchss-
mann or Stefan Sagmeister.
I still consider this opportunity a great hon-
or; moreover, I am glad Ive had the occasion to
study at the rst European University of Applied
Arts, even if only for several months, with well-
known professors, coordinated by Mrs. Gertrude
Hchssmann, a personality of the Viennese fash-
ion avant-garde. I borrowed the pattern of study,
the strictly needed disciplines, as well as the ele-
ments of artistic expression, thus elaborating an
academic curriculum according to those Roma-
nian circumstances.
I was fascinated to create clothes which were
supposed to match with a wide range of oppor-
tunities, satisfying more preferences, to be nally
worn and t more bodies and ages. I was tenacious
and developed at the same time with my students,
which I tried to educate according to those learned
in Vienna. It was not easy as the creation specic
to fashion has always been more different than the
artistic one, and this detail was hardly understood
and accepted by my colleagues and students.
As a professor, I had to know the pattern and
production techniques very well, to provide crea-
tive solutions in drawings, and coordinate the ac-
tivity of the fashion lab. This period of time will
be always special for me, not only because of the
novelty of the situation but also due to my experi-
259
Ioana Avram i Unda Popp, prezentndu-i rochiile
din hrtie, 1975
Ioana Avram and Unda Popp, presenting their paper
dresses, 1975
260
ordonez activitatea laboratorului de mod. Acea
perioad rmne un lucru deosebit n viaa mea,
nu doar prin noutatea situaiei, ci i prin experi-
enele trite alturi de studenii mei de atunci.
Fiecare dintre ei dorea s e ct mai origi-
nal i era dornic s demonstreze c poate un
creator de mod talentat. A meniona pe Gerda
Kneipp, tefan i Lizica Rdulescu, Doina Costa-
che Cerisier, Nicolae Tudor, Ella tefnescu, care
de-a lungul carierei lor au demonstrat corectitudi-
nea drumului nceput n Romnia acelor vremuri.
De asemenea, dintre studentele mele de
atunci, Unda Popp, Ioana Avram, Paula Bar-
bu, Claudia Muat au ajuns astzi profesoare
la UNAB.
Am ncercat s insuu un spirit romnesc n
tot ceea ce nseamn mod, s deschid ua crea-
iei de mod ctre valorile naionale, cu att mai
mult, cu ct chiar n acel an, Yves Saint Laurent
lansa n cultura i arta universal iia romneasc.
Problema care se punea era ca studenii s
e capabili s creeze, s exprime i s realizeze
piese vestimentare care s nu e doar artistice
sau creative, ci s e mbrcminte care rspun-
de diferitelor cerine, teme sau nevoi reale. Dei
a trecut mult vreme, i pentru cei de azi acele
timpuri pot prea anacronice i depite, totui
nu trebuie uitat c existau faciliti i oportuniti
deosebite pentru cei ce doreau s se pregteasc
pentru profesia de creator de mod.
Studenii beneciau de consultarea revis-
telor de mod, la Biblioteca Institutului sau la
CEPIU (Centrul de Cercetare pentru Industria
Uoar), unde puteau vizionate ultimele cre-
aii lansate la Paris capitala modei, dar acest
lucru se referea doar la documentare, deoare-
ce n Institut era foarte ncurajat originalitatea
vestimentar, iar studenii erau ndrumai s e
ct mai inovativi n creaiile lor.
Facultatea noastr punea la dispoziie ma-
nechine pe dimensiunile standard, un atelier
dotat cu materiale, maini de cusut (chiar dac
nu cele mai performante), asisten tehnic (un
tehnician specializat, care sprijinea studenii la
construcia tiparului i la confecionarea vesti-
mentaiei), manechine (de croitorie) i un ma-
nechin viu, care participa i la cursurile de cro-
chiuri, absolut obligatorii.
ence together with my students back then.
Each of them wished to be as original as pos-
sible and was eager to prove that he could be a
talented fashion creator. I would mention Gerda
Kneipp, tefan and Lizica Rdulescu, Doina Cos-
tache Cerisier, Nicolae Tudor, Ella tefnescu who,
during their career, demonstrated the corectness
of the way started in Romania of those times.
Regarding my former students, Unda Popp,
Ioana Avram, Paula Barbu and Claudia Muat,
they are now professors at the National University
of Arts, Bucharest.
I tried to provide all that means fashion with a
Romanian spirit, to stimulate fashion towards the
national values, especially as during that year Yves
Saint Laurent was promoting the world and Roma-
nian culture and art.
The main issue was that students were sup-
posed to be able to create, express and realize
items of clothing, which were meant to be not
only artistic or creative, they were demanded to
represent a sort of clothing responding to differ-
ent patterns, topics or real needs. Although it had
happened a long time ago, and we might consider
these times anachronistic or oudated, we must
not forget the special facilities and opportunities
provided for those who wanted to train and be-
come fashion designers.
The students could benet from the consulta-
tion of fashion magazines at the Institutes Library
or at the CEPIU (The Research Centre for Light In-
dustry), where they could see the latest creations
launched at Paris the capital of fashion, however
this fact referred only to the documentary aspect
since at the Institute originality was highly stimu-
lated and students were recommended to be as
innovative as possible in their creation.
Our faculty provided the students with stand-
ard mannequins, a studio equipped with materi-
als, sewing machines (even if they were not very
specialized), technical assistance (a specialized
technician, who used to support the students in
the construction of patterns and the clothing de-
sign), tailoring mannequins and a living manne-
quin, who also participated in the sketch courses,
which were absolutely compulsory.
During that period of time the materials,
which had to become clothing items, were pro-
261
La acea vreme, materialele care trebuiau s
devin produse vestimentare erau asigurate de
ctre facultate (cam 3-4 sortimente, cum ar :
pnza de decor, o mtase foarte n Excel-
sior, o estur de ln de capr, aspr As-
tar, i... cam att), erau albe, nevopsite i aveam
posibilitatea s le vopsim sau s le imprimm la
atelierele Seciei Arte Textile. De asemenea, se
creau accesorii, cu precdere plrii sau sacoe,
care s completeze inutele. Aa se face c stu-
denii nvau cte puin i despre aceste tehnici.
Institutul avea i un laborator de fotograe,
cu un fotograf angajat pentru a imortaliza colec-
iile realizate de ctre studeni, n ideea ca ecare
experien sau produs nit s rmn ca docu-
ment, iar arhiva s poat vizionat de ctre
studeni sau profesori, oricnd, ca surs de in-
spiraie sau ca material didactic. Dei acest lucru
s-a pierdut, el a fost gndit dup modelul ster-
reichischen Museums fr Kunst und Industrie,
din care s-a dezvoltat Kunstgewerbeschule, dar
poate ideea ar putea reluat.
Ani buni am facut echip cu Adina Nanu,
colega mea, care preda istoria costumului i
care stimula experimentele neconvenionale n
rndul studenilor, astfel nct rigoarea colii de
mod era mblnzit de teme mai libere, mai
amuzante.
Uniunea Artitilor Plastici sprijinea tinerii,
chiar i pe studeni, i le oferea uneori dreptul
la expunere n slile sale, iar adeseori studenii
foarte meritorii erau premiai pentru inventivita-
tea i originalitatea lor.
De asemenea revista MODA, de pe lng co-
operaia de consum, gzduia i creaiile studen-
ilor de la mod.
Pasiunea mea, n afara obligaiilor didactice
i profesorale, mi-o satisfceam cumprndu-mi
materiale, pentru a le confeciona eu nsmi, iar
azi, la vrsta mea, m mir ct de multe obiecte
vestimentare am creat, vopsit, imprimat i con-
fecionat chiar cu mna mea. Deschid dulapul,
i dup atta vreme m bucur de astfel de reali-
zri, ecare cu amintirea ei. Am lme i fotograi
care stau mrturie pentru ntreaga mea carier
de profesor la Secia de Mod, i uneori readuc n
memorie, cu nostalgie, momentele n care toate
acestea au nceput.
vided by the faculty (about 3-4 assortments such
as: decorative canvas, a very soft and tender silk
Excelsior, a woolen fabric suggests the goat
factor, roughness Astar, and... thats it), they
were white and unpainted, and we had the op-
portunity to print them in the studios of the Textile
Arts Department. They also created accessories,
especially hats or bags, to complete the outt. As
a result, the students also learned a few details
regarding these techniques.
The Institute also had its photo lab and an
employed photographer to immortalize the collec-
tions realized by students as they considered each
experience or nite product a document, for the
archive to be seen by students and professors any
time they wanted, as a source of inspiration or as
a didactic material. Although we can refer to it no
more, it was conceived according to the sterrei-
chischen Museums fr Kunst und Industrie model,
which developed the Kunstgewerbeschule, yet the
idea might be reconsidered.
For years I have been working with Adina
Nanu, my colleague, who was teaching the his-
tory of the costume and was promoting the un-
conventional experiments among students thus
the schools rigor was softened by more exible
and more amusing topics.
The Professional Artists Union supported the
young generation, even the students, and some-
times provided them with the right to exhibit in
their exhibition rooms, and the meritorius stu-
dents were often awarded for their inventiveness
and originality.
The FASHION magazine by the Consumer Co-
operatives was also sheltering the creations of the
students belonging to the Fashion Department.
Besides my didactic and professional responsi-
bilities, I used to satisfy my passion by buying ma-
terials to subsequently confection them and today,
at my age, I am surprised to see how many clothing
items I have created, painted, printed and made
with my own hands. I open my wardrobe and, after
such a long time, I can enjoy this kind of accom-
plishments and the memories they are related to.
I have got lms and documentaries illustrating my
whole career as a professor at the Fashion Depart-
ment and sometimes I nostalgically remember the
moments when all these had begun.
262
Evenimente
Events
263
Anul II, ZVON DE PRIMVAR Instant Fashion Show, Sun Plaza, Bucureti, 2013
Second year BA, THE WHISPER OF THE SPRING Instant Fashion Show, Sun Plaza, Bucharest, 2013
264 265
Coleciile studenilor Departamentului Mod prezentate cu prilejul srbtoririi a 70 de ani de activitate British Council
n Romnia, Centrul Cultural Britanic, Bucureti, 2013
The collections of the Fashion Department students presented at the 70s anniversary of the British Council in Roma-
nia, the British Cultural Centre, Bucharest, 2013
266
Coleciile studenilor Departamentului Mod prezentate cu prilejul srbtoririi a 70 de ani de activitate British Council
n Romnia, Hotel Hilton, Bucureti, 2013. n imagini apare colecia Roxanei Prvu.
The collections of the Fashion Department students presented at the 70s anniversary of the British Council in Roma-
nia, Hilton hotel, Bucharest, 2013. In photos appears Roxana Prvus collection.
267
Lcrmioara Crian, Sibiu, 2013
268
edina foto pentru Colecia LadZestra, UNAB, Bucureti, 2014
Photo session for the LadZestra Collection, UNAB, Bucharest, 2014
269
270
Coleciile studenilor: Alexandru Ivan (1), Raluca Mndi (2), Mdlina Georgescu (3), Romexpo, Bucureti, 2013
The collections of the students: Alexandru Ivan (1), Raluca Mndi (2), Mdlina Georgescu (3), Romexpo, Bucha-
rest, 2013
1
3 2
271
Coleciile studenilor: Lcrmioara Crian (1), Alina Gurgu (2), Romexpo, Bucureti, 2013
The collections of the students: Lcrmioara Crian (1), Alina Gurgu (2), Romexpo, Bucharest, 2013
Prezentare UNAB Mod: Doina Berchin (3), Romexpo, Bucureti, 2013
UNAB Fashion presentation : Doina Berchin (3), Romexpo, Bucharest, 2013
1 2
3
272
Liliana uroiu, vernisajul expoziiei de Art i Costum Sur les toits de Paris, Athne Palace Hilton, Bucureti, 2013
Liliana uroiu, the opening of the Art and costume exhibition Sur les toits de Paris, Athne Palace Hilton,
Bucharest, 2013
273
Adina Nanu lucrnd cu Viorica Sldescu n Laboratorul de Imprimerie din cadrul Departamentului Arte Textile, 2013
Adina Nanu working with Viorica Sldescu in the Printing Laboratory inside of the Textile Arts Department, 2013
274
Prezentarea Coleciei DeConFashion, cu prilejul semnrii parteneriatului dintre UNAB i Scoala de Mod din Viena,
DADA, Bucureti, 2013
The presentation of a collection, DeConFashion, when signing the partnership between the National University of Arts
Bucharest and the Fashion School from Vienna, DADA, Bucharest, 2013
275
Prezentarea Coleciei DeConFashion, cu prilejul semnrii parteneriatului dintre UNAB i Scoala de Mod din Viena,
DADA, Bucureti, 2013
The presentation of a collection, DeConFashion, when signing the partnership between the National University of Arts
Bucharest and the Fashion School from Vienna, DADA, Bucharest, 2013
276 277
Gala Absolvenilor Departamentului Mod, UNAB, Bucureti, 2013
The Fashion Departments Galla, UNAB, Bucharest, 2013
278 279
Mega Fashion, lmri nocturne n curtea colii, UNAB, 2013
Mega Fashion, night shooting in schoolyard, UNAB, 2013
280
Unda POPP
Doina BERCHIN
Unda POPP
Paula BARBU
Ioana AVRAM
Doina LUCANU
Alina Maria GRIGA
Liliana UROIU
Aurelia POMPONIU
Venera ARAPU
Rzvan VASILESCU
Sergiu CHIHAIA
Oana Maria ROCA
Gheorghe PREDA
Alexandru-Ioan MRGINEAN
Matei ARNUTU
Adina CEZAR
Liliana IFRIM
Bogdan HOJBOT
Adina NANU
Leontina MAILATESCU
Viziune idilic La familia 6
Aventura 10
Performing-ul de costum sau cum i dai via unei teme
de coal 26
Trei plrii pentru ntlnirea cu moda 44
Moda i semnele schimbrii 64
Arta Firului i jocul formei 84
Reciclarea inovativ sau upcycling 102
Moda ca pasiune, profesie i stil de via 120
Gnduri la ceas aniversar 136
Pasiune pentru Mod 146
Activitate personal dendidaist 156
Postmodernismul i moda 176
O tem de cercetare Cltoria n trecutul istoric
naional 186
Magia imaginilor 196
Coordonatele matematice ale eleganei 202
UNArte mai tnr cu 150 de ani 206
Costume n micare 218
Ruca cea Urt sau despre rolul i locul Tehnologiei i
construciei tiparului 222
Despre elemente simbolice folosite n compoziia podoa-
belor din metal 234
Elogiul Plriei 250
nceputurile seciei Creaie Vestimentar 1971 256
Evenimente 262
281
Unda POPP
Doina BERCHIN
Unda POPP
Paula BARBU
Ioana AVRAM
Doina LUCANU
Alina Maria GRIGA
Liliana UROIU
Aurelia POMPONIU
Venera ARAPU
Rzvan VASILESCU
Sergiu CHIHAIA
Oana Maria ROCA
Gheorghe PREDA
Alexandru-Ioan MRGINEAN
Matei ARNUTU
Adina CEZAR
Liliana IFRIM
Bogdan HOJBOT
Adina NANU
Leontina MAILATESCU
Idyllic vision La familia 6
Adventure 10
The costume performance or how can you render life
to a school topic 26
Three hats for the encounter with fashion 44
Fashion and the signs of change 64
Fiber Art and the game of forms 84
The innovative recycling or upcycling 102
Fashion as passion, profession and lifestyle 0120
Anniversary thoughts 136
Passion for Fashion 146
Personal Dandidaist activity 156
Postmodernism and fashion 176
A topic of research The journey to the national histori-
cal past 186
The Magic of Images 196
The mathematic coordinates of elegance 202
UNArte 150 years younger 206
Costumes in movement 218
The little ugly Duck or about the role of Technology and
pattern constructions 222
About the symbolical elements used in the composition
of metal ornaments 234
The hats eulogy 250
The beginnings of the Fashion Design Department 1971 256
Events 262
280 281
284
editura UNArte Bucureti 2014
UNArte publishing house Bucharest 2014
ISBN 978-606-720-008-9