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Our audiences misses their stylists, derms, and manicurists as much as we do. Here, in our new series, we bring experts straight to the Allure reader’s home for lessons on handling at-home beauty like a pro. Welcome to House Calls.
Whether you need a few minutes of self-care (and who doesn't) or you simply don't want to spend the money to have your nails professionally done (and really, who does), mastering the at-home manicure is a skill that will serve you well.
Of course, just having the right tools and polishes on hand doesn't ensure a salon-quality manicure — anyone who's ever tried to paint their own nails knows that it's not half as easy as the pros make it look. But that doesn't mean you can't get the hang of it. Here, we're breaking down all of the expert-backed steps, tools, and tips required to give yourself the perfect at-home manicure.
In order to properly pamper your nails, there are certain tools and items you'll want to have on hand. According to manicurists Lisa Logan and Betina Goldstein, these include a nail file (to shape the nails), a buffer (to smooth the nail bed), cuticle oil (to soften cuticles so you can push them back), plus a nail brush (to remove the oil before you paint), as well as your base coat, whatever polish color you've picked out, and a top coat.
And if you need to remove any old polish before getting started, Goldstein recommends using an oil-based polish remover — acetone is harsh and can cause nails to weaken — to keep nails and cuticles from drying out. Her favorite: Karma Naturals Nail Polish Remover With Rose Oil.
Now, here's what to do.
Trim your fingernails with nail clippers, unless you prefer to keep your length. "When cutting your nails, never start in the middle," says Goldstein. "Begin on the side and work your way across so you don't split the nail," she adds.
If you have long nails, it's especially important to start your at-home mani with a pair of nail clippers, rather than try to file down an excessive amount of growth. Sarah Gibson Tuttle, the founder of Olive & June, which recently launched a handy at-home manicure kit (we'll get to that), abides by the following: "It's all about the 90/10 rule — 90 percent of your shape comes from your nail clipper, [and] 10 percent from filing."
When it comes to filing, you'll want to start off using your file to whittle your nails into your desired shape: oval, square, rounded square, or whatever shape you choose. Not sure? Choosing your nail shape is a matter of personal preference, but professionals use the following technique.
"I let my clients decide on the shape. But when asked for my recommendation, I choose based on the shape of their natural nail edge [or tip]," Logan says. "If the nail edge is smile-shaped, I recommend a round-shaped nail. If line-shaped, a square shape is recommended."
When it comes to the actual filing, you'll want to file "from the sidewall to the center on either nail," Logan recommends, as "seesaw filing can cause hangnails." "Seesaw filing is when you move the nail file in a back-and-forth motion across the tip of the nail. Swiping it in one direction on either side of the center will ensure a smoother finish (sans hangnails)."
After you've filed, it's time to buff the nails in order to "create a smooth surface" on which you'll be painting, according to Logan. To buff your nails, you'll need to glide a nail buffer across each nail for a few seconds, moving back and forth until you can feel (and see) that the nail is smooth.
You might wonder if this step is truly necessary or if you can skip it when you're in a pinch. But going straight into painting your nails sans buffing will have a noticeable effect on the way your polish turns out. "If you don't start with smooth nails before polishing, it will be reflected on the painted surface," Logan says.
For allover smoothness, "exfoliate your hands at least once a week," says Goldstein. Her method: Massage a scrub, such as Herbivore Coco Rose Body Polish, over hands and nails in circular motions, paying extra attention to your cuticles and knuckles. Rinse and dry.
"Rub in cuticle oil directly on your cuticle using your fingertips, [and] softly but firmly push back the cuticle to reveal the nail plate," Logan says. "This helps the nail look more elongated."
Although many in-salon manicures will include trimming of the cuticles, New York City-based board-certified dermatologist Howard Sobel recommends against doing so at home. "Try to avoid cutting your cuticles and just push them gently back,” Sobel advises. "If you cut incorrectly, that can lead to further breakage, rips, and tears, and ultimately an infection in your nail bed.” Logan agrees, saying that "healthy nails don't have a break in the cuticle and should not be cut.”
Keeping your cuticles hydrated with an oil or serum shouldn't just be reserved for your manicure. You should keep them hydrated at all times. "When your cuticles are dry, they're prone to hangnails," Sobel says. "There are many cuticle products designed to help strengthen nails and smooth your cuticles to make them more manageable and less prone to breakage. Look for oil-based versions that help with hydration."
It might seem counterintuitive, but after you've applied oil and gently pushed back your cuticles, it's time to wash off said oil — which is where your nail brush comes in. This is the part of the in-salon manicure where your manicurist may ask you to go to the sink and scrub your nails with a nail brush and a bit of sudsy water. Do the same when you're at home because "oil on the nail plate is the biggest cause of chipping," Gibson Tuttle says.
You can also "cleanse your nails with a cotton swab dipped in isopropyl alcohol or facial toner," says Goldstein. Both will ensure your nail polish sticks to your nail and doesn't streak. If you go this route, "be sure to wipe down only your nails, not your skin," notes Goldstein.
Finally, it's time to start painting. "Rest your hand on a table to keep it steady," suggests Goldstein. Begin with a thin layer of base coat polish. This will help ensure a more even color application, and it also prevents the polish from staining your nails. Logan recommends you let the base coat dry for one minute before moving on to the next step.
Now for the most fun, and also arguably the most difficult, part: painting on your polish. Always apply two coats of color, waiting several minutes between each coat to prevent dents and bubbles. "When applying color, start in the middle of the nail bed and work your way to the sides in thin, even layers," says Goldstein. And "paint the tip of the nail as it helps seal the color," Logan says.
As we all know, this is often easier said than done. "The biggest problem with at-home manis is that it's just hard to paint with your non-dominant hand," Gibson Tuttle explains. This is precisely what led her to create the Poppy, a universal nail polish bottle handle with a large grip that is said to give you more control "so you get even, steadier, and more consistent strokes," Gibson Tuttle says.
If you're sticking with a traditional nail polish handle, don't be too hard on yourself: Practice makes progress, Gibson Tuttle says.
Finally, you'll want to apply a quality topcoat polish, which will help seal your color, make it shine, and prevent it from chipping. Gibson Tuttle suggests also reapplying your top coat every two to three days to prevent chipping and to help keep your mani looking fresh. After your top coat dries (again, wait about one minute), Logan recommends you "keep hydrating [your hands] throughout the day" to ensure that your manicure stays fresh and your cuticles healthy.
To make your manicure last even longer, "reapply your top coat every two to three days," Goldstein says.
And voilà! Your at-home manicure is done. Gibson Tuttle suggests rather than viewing it as a chore, try to think of manicure time as self-care instead. "Owning your nail routine means you can always have a fresh mani and easily fix a chip or a smudged nail," she says. "We really like to pair painting with watching your favorite TV show or listening to your favorite podcast to really have the best me moment."
Now for nail-art inspiration:
Halima Aden's shopping list might help:
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