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If vitamins are the micronutrients our body needs in order to function, then it's only logical that using the best vitamins for your skin can have a profound effect on your appearance.
But vitamins have not always been vitamins. Let’s back up for a minute: Until the 1900s, no one had any idea there was such a thing. Then a Polish biochemist named Casimir Funk (yes, the best name ever, we know) came along. He was studying beriberi disease, and realized all the sufferers were deficient in what’s now called vitamin B1 or thiamine. Casmir coined the term himself: After realizing these nutrients were essential to human function, he chose the name “vital amines,” with vital coming from the root word “vita” meaning “life” in Latin. But more than a century later, trying to figure out what each vitamin actually does — and which ones are best for you — can still feel a bit like wading through a bowl of alphabet soup.
If you’re deciding which ones to ingest, we suggest consulting a doctor or nutritionist. But if you’re looking to figure out the difference between a vitamin C serum and a vitamin A-derived retinol cream, knowing the benefits of each can empower you to make the best choice for your skin.
And choices abound. Vitamin-enriched skin-care products can protect against free-radical damage, treat fine lines and wrinkles, and lessen hyperpigmentation. Basically, there’s a vitamin out there for every one of your skin concerns — you just have to know which one provides which benefits.
That’s why we dedicated the fifth episode of The Science of Beauty to the best vitamins for your skin. Our guest, Frauke Neuser, principal scientist and senior director, scientific communications at Olay, got hosts Michelle Lee and Jenny Bailly looking at the vitamin alphabet in a whole new way — and now you will, too.
Can Ingesting Vitamins Help Your Skin?
According to Neuser, taking vitamins orally won’t necessarily make an impactful difference in the state of your skin. That’s because ingesting a vitamin doesn’t allow for the same targeted application as skin care. If you consume lots of vitamins, they will be distributed everywhere in your body and on your skin — not only to your face, says Neuser. And unless you’re actually deficient in a particular nutrient, you’re just urinating out the excess you’ve taken in.
So while taking supplements might not be the most direct path to getting glowing, healthy skin, some studies have proven vitamins useful in preventing and treating specific conditions. According to a 2019 study published in the JAMA Dermatology, increased amounts of vitamin A — which can be found in foods like carrots, sweet potato, spinach, eggs, and fish — in your diet can lower your risk of developing squamous cell carcinoma, the second most common form of skin cancer. And Accutane — a drug used to treat severe acne — is actually an oral vitamin A called isotretinoin. “If you are really struggling with acne, [Accutane] is a form of oral vitamin A that you and your dermatologist might discuss as an option — but it's certainly a powerful drug,” explains Jenny during the podcast.
The Best Skin-Care Vitamins
We know vitamins are critical for our overall health, but when applied topically, how exactly can they benefit our skin? Here’s a comprehensive breakdown — in the order of most searched to least.
What It Does:
Vitamin E — called alpha-tocopherol — has been a staple in the skincare industry for a long time. It’s a moisturizing antioxidant, which guards the skin barrier and improves skin hydration. It also protects skin-cell membranes from oxidation by free radicals, specifically when the skin is hit by UV rays. In fact, according to a study published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, the vitamin has UV protective benefits when combined with vitamin C.
How It’s Used:
Topical vitamin E has also emerged as a popular treatment for a number of skin disorders, due to its antioxidant properties. One of the most popular applications is the treatment of burns, surgical scars, and wounds; studies are mixed about whether it’s actually beneficial, though. Be sure to consult your doctor before using it for these purposes.
What It Does:
Vitamin C — also called L-ascorbic acid — is an antioxidant that boosts collagen production, decreases pigment formation, and protects against environmental stressors. And if you’re a longtime Allure reader, you know it’s an ingredient we can’t say enough good stuff about.
Like other antioxidants, vitamin C neutralizes free radicals to protect against damage caused to skin cells by things like pollution and UV rays. Damaged skin cells mean accelerated signs of aging — like lines, wrinkles, and discoloration, says Neuser.
But vitamin C is also adept at treating hyperpigmentation. It inhibits the action of the enzyme tyrosinase — the main enzyme responsible for the conversion of tyrosine into melanin — and therefore decreases melanin formation. Topical application of some formulations of vitamin C can even effectively decrease discoloration caused by melasma, one of the hardest pigment issues to treat.
However, topical vitamin C must be handled with care: It can be unstable, meaning it breaks down and is ineffective when exposed to oxygen or sunlight. The best formulas use L-ascorbic acid and are packaged in airtight containers in order to protect the formula from oxidizing. Neuser advises that if a vitamin C-based product changes color, it’s usually a sign that the vitamin is breaking down and is less effective. So keep a close eye on your formula of choice.
How It’s Used:
You often see vitamin C combined with vitamin E, and sometimes even with ferulic acid — that’s because the combination of these ingredients improves the stability of the vitamins and doubles the sun protection for the skin. “[Vitamin C] is water-soluble and [vitamin E] is oil soluble, and you have water-soluble compartments and oil-soluble compartments in the skin, so you need an antioxidant for both,” explains Neuser.
When applying a vitamin C product, remember that it’s very potent. You only need to use a few drops per application in order to get results. (And beware of staining your pillowcase, as some can leave behind an orange-ish stain.)
What It Does:
Vitamin A is widely-considered among the most effective skin-care ingredients around. It comes in many forms, though its most famous derivative is the over-the-counter retinol. And it’s worth noting that vitamin A was the first vitamin approved by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) as a topical ingredient that actually changes the appearance of the skin’s surface. It works by binding to receptors in skin cells, in turn strengthening the protective function of the epidermis, protecting collagen against degradation, and stimulating skin cell turnover. For the same reason, vitamin A is a powerful acne fighter, too.
Retinoic acid, also known as tretinoin, is a vitamin A derivative that’s available only by prescription. It’s been evaluated as a topical treatment for both hyperpigmentation and fine lines, and is a dermatologist-favorite for delivering results with relatively mild adverse effects like redness and increased sensitivity.
How It’s Used:
While the skin benefits of vitamin A are undeniable, many people are put off by the adjustment period that comes with using such a powerful product. If you’re new to using vitamin A products like retinol, begin with a lower concentration and do not use it every day. Instead, try it every other day — and only at night, since retinol can make the skin more susceptible to sun damage. Once your skin has built up a tolerance, you can begin to use it more often. “You really need very small amounts [of retinol],” says Neuser. “Don't just go for big numbers and percentages, because you are increasing your risk of irritation. Look for something that has words like ‘hydrating’ on [it.]”
And be patient: Using retinol for only a few days won’t give you a brighter complexion and fewer wrinkles. “We expect to see first results between two and four weeks,” says Neuser, who sees retinol as a “long term” ingredient ideal for maintenance over time. That said, if and when you’re pregnant or breast-feeding, it’s best to press pause on your usage.
What It Does:
There’s a lot of talk about vitamin D these days. We naturally produce this vitamin from sun exposure, but should we sit outside and risk UV damage? Uh, absolutely not. But it’s important to make sure we have enough: Research has found an association between vitamin D deficiency and diseases like cancer and diabetes. It’s also a key factor in bone health. If you’re concerned you’re deficient in vitamin D, please — please! — don’t go out in the sun unprotected. Instead, apply your sunscreen and head to a medical professional, who will assess your levels and potentially advise you to take vitamin D supplements.
How It’s Used:
Slathering on a vitamin D-infused lotion won’t get you anywhere. Neuser says vitamin D is not typically used in skincare products. “Your skin is just the organ that helps with the production of [vitamin D],” says Neuser.
However, it can be found in some over-the-counter beauty products to treat psoriasis — but, of course, check with your doctor first to see if it could be an option for you.
What It Does:
Unlike other vitamins, vitamin B refers not to a single vitamin, but a group of them. There are eight different types: thiamine (B1), riboflavin (B2), niacin (B3), pantothenic acid (B5), B6, biotin (B7), folate (B9), and B12. Phew!
A form of vitamin B3 called niacinamide is one of the B vitamins most commonly found in skin care. Niacinamide is best known for helping skin maintain its normal barrier function, and reducing dryness and soothing related conditions like eczema. It increases the level of lipids — called ceramides — in the skin, making it ideal for moisturizing. It can also improve the appearance of your skin tone and texture. In fact, Neuser calls niacinamide “fuel for your skin cells” because it enhances many of the processes that are important for creating healthy, well-balanced skin. “It helps to reduce the appearance of pores, dark spots, pigmentation, redness, and fine lines and wrinkles,” she says, adding that the ingredient can be found in many of Olay’s products.
Vitamin B5 — also known as pantothenic acid — is another important B vitamin that’s often used in skin care. “It’s really good at soothing the skin and keeping it soft and supple,” says Neuser. Pantothenic acid improves skin hydration, reduces moisture loss, and has anti-inflammatory effects, making it beneficial for those with irritated skin.
How It’s Used:
Neuser says you can be pretty liberal when using products with vitamin B derivatives like niacinamide. “Using niacinamide twice a day gives the best benefits,” says Neuser. “It doesn’t have any negative side effects or irritation.” (But check that your blend of choice doesn’t also contain irritants or exfoliants.)
What It Does:
Vitamin F is just starting to gain traction in the skin-care world. However, it’s always been known to play an important role in our health thanks to its ability to reduce some types of inflammation and improve heart health.
While its name certainly implies otherwise, vitamin F is not actually a vitamin. That “F” refers to fatty acids. Vitamin F is primarily found in linoleic acid (an omega 6 fatty acid) and linolenic acid (an omega 3). Together these help regulate and promote the healthy function of our body, including playing a role in the health of our skin. Vitamin F aka fatty acids assist in normal skin function and protect a healthy skin barrier, while also acting as an effective skin-soothing agent.
Also of note: people who are acne-prone tend to have low levels of linoleic acid. Some studies have found that applying linoleic acid on the faces of people with mild acne helped diminish their blemishes.
How It’s Used:
“Vitamin” F — and note the quotes there — is incorporated in many different hydrators like moisturizers and serums. While the specific application will vary by product, vitamin F (you’re more likely to see linoleic acid and linolenic acid on an ingredient list) can generally be used both morning and night as part of your daily routine since it’s rather mild.
Our Hosts’ Favorite Vitamin-Enriched Products
Jenny’s Current Favorites
“Almost every morning, I use a vitamin C serum under my sunscreen,” says Jenny, who loves SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic — but not the way it smells. She’s also been using BeautyStat Universal C Skin Refiner: “It has 20% L-ascorbic acid — so a nice powerful dose of vitamin C,” she says. “It’s really helped brighten up my skin.”
Michelle’s Current Favorites
Like Jenny, Michelle also uses SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic. (Dermatologists have long told Allure it’s one of their absolute favorites!) She also applies a vitamin C product — specifically Peter Thomas Roth Potent-C Vitamin C Power Eye Cream — under her eyes for a brightening effect. For a dose of soothing niacinamide, she uses Peach & Lily Glass Skin Refining Serum. And now that she’s no longer pregnant or breastfeeding, new-mom Michelle is getting back into retinol products like Olay Regenerist Retinol24 Night Moisturizer.
The Bottom Line
The benefits of applying vitamins topically are wide-ranging: brightening, wrinkle-reducing, acne-clearing, and more. It’s just a matter of choosing the vitamins that’s proven to be best for treating your specific concerns — and going slow and steady as you see what works for your skin.
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